beasts, men and gods-第12章
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re the workmen of some Russian colonists。 We even feared to shoot； although we met a great herd of antelopes numbering as many as five thousand head。 Behind Balir in the lands of the Lama Jassaktu Khan； who had inherited his throne as a result of the poisoning of his brother at Urga by order of the Living Buddha； we met wandering Russian Tartars who had driven their herds all the way from Altai and Abakan。 They welcomed us very cordially； gave us oxen and thirty… six bricks of tea。 Also they saved us from inevitable destruction； for they told us that at this season it was utterly impossible for horses to make the trip across the Gobi； where there was no grass at all。 We must buy camels by exchanging for them our horses and some other of our bartering supplies。 One of the Tartars the next day brought to their camp a rich Mongol with whom he drove the bargain for this trade。 He gave us nineteen camels and took all our horses； one rifle； one pistol and the best Cossack saddle。 He advised us by all means to visit the sacred Monastery of Narabanchi； the last Lamaite monastery on the road from Mongolia to Tibet。 He told us that the Holy Hutuktu； 〃the Incarnate Buddha；〃 would be greatly offended if we did not visit the monastery and his famous 〃Shrine of Blessings；〃 where all travelers going to Tibet always offered prayers。 Our Kalmuck Lamaite supported the Mongol in this。 I decided to go there with the Kalmuck。 The Tartars gave me some big silk hatyk as presents and loaned us four splendid horses。 Although the monastery was fifty…five miles distant； by nine o'clock in the evening I entered the yurta of this holy Hutuktu。
He was a middle…aged； clean shaven； spare little man； laboring under the name of Jelyb Djamsrap Hutuktu。 He received us very cordially and was greatly pleased with the presentation of the hatyk and with my knowledge of the Mongol etiquette in which my Tartar had been long and persistently instructing me。 He listened to me most attentively and gave valuable advice about the road； presenting me then with a ring which has since opened for me the doors of all Lamaite monasteries。 The name of this Hutuktu is highly esteemed not only in all Mongolia but in Tibet and in the Lamaite world of China。 We spent the night in his splendid yurta and on the following morning visited the shrines where they were conducting very solemn services with the music of gongs； tom…toms and whistling。 The Lamas with their deep voices were intoning the prayers while the lesser priests answered with their antiphonies。 The sacred phrase： 〃Om！ Mani padme Hung！〃 was endlessly repeated。
The Hutuktu wished us success； presented us with a large yellow hatyk and accompanied us to the monastery gate。 When we were in our saddles he said：
〃Remember that you are always welcome guests here。 Life is very complicated and anything may happen。 Perhaps you will be forced in future to re…visit distant Mongolia and then do not miss Narabanchi Kure。〃
That night we returned to the Tartars and the next day continued our journey。 As I was very tired； the slow； easy motion of the camel was welcome and restful to me。 All the day I dozed off at intervals to sleep。 It turned out to be very disastrous for me； for； when my camel was going up the steep bank of a river； in one of my naps I fell off and hit my head on a stone； lost consciousness and woke up to find my overcoat covered with blood。 My friends surrounded me with their frightened faces。 They bandaged my head and we started off again。 I only learned long afterwards from a doctor who examined me that I had cracked my skull as the price of my siesta。
We crossed the eastern ranges of the Altai and the Karlik Tag； which are the most oriental sentinels the great Tian Shan system throws out into the regions of the Gobi； and then traversed from the north to the south the entire width of the Khuhu Gobi。 Intense cold ruled all this time and fortunately the frozen sands gave us better speed。 Before passing the Khara range； we exchanged our rocking…chair steeds for horses； a deal in which the Torguts skinned us badly like the true 〃old clothes men〃 they are。
Skirting around these mountains we entered Kansu。 It was a dangerous move； for the Chinese were arresting all refugees and I feared for my Russian fellow…travelers。 During the days we hid in the ravines； the forests and bushes； making forced marches at night。 Four days we thus used in this passage of Kansu。 The few Chinese peasants we did encounter were peaceful appearing and most hospitable。 A marked sympathetic interest surrounded the Kalmuck； who could speak a bit of Chinese； and my box of medicines。 Everywhere we found many ill people； chiefly afflicted with eye troubles； rheumatism and skin diseases。
As we were approaching Nan Shan； the northeast branch of the Altyn Tag （which is in turn the east branch of the Pamir and Karakhorum system）； we overhauled a large caravan of Chinese merchants going to Tibet and joined them。 For three days we were winding through the endless ravine…like valleys of these mountains and ascending the high passes。 But we noticed that the Chinese knew how to pick the easiest routes for caravans over all these difficult places。 In a state of semi…consciousness I made this whole journey toward the large group of swampy lakes； feeding the Koko Nor and a whole network of large rivers。 From fatigue and constant nervous strain； probably helped by the blow on my head； I began suffering from sharp attacks of chills and fever； burning up at times and then chattering so with my teeth that I frightened my horse who several times threw me from the saddle。 I raved； cried out at times and even wept。 I called my family and instructed them how they must come to me。 I remember as though through a dream how I was taken from the horse by my companions； laid on the ground； supplied with Chinese brandy and； when I recovered a little； how they said to me：
〃The Chinese merchants are heading for the west and we must travel south。〃
〃No！ To the north；〃 I replied very sharply。
〃But no； to the south；〃 my companions assured me。
〃God and the Devil！〃 I angrily ejaculated； 〃we have just swum the Little Yenisei and Algyak is to the north！〃
〃We are in Tibet；〃 remonstrated my companions。 〃We must reach the Brahmaputra。〃
Brahmaputra。 。 。 。 Brahmaputra。 。 。 。 This word revolved in my fiery brain； made a terrible noise and commotion。 Suddenly I remembered everything and opened my eyes。 I hardly moved my lips and soon I again lost consciousness。 My companions brought me to the monastery of Sharkhe； where the Lama doctor quickly brought me round with a solution of fatil or Chinese ginseng。 In discussing our plans he expressed grave doubt as to whether we would get through Tibet but he did not wish to explain to me the reason for his doubts。
CHAPTER XVI
IN MYSTERIOUS TIBET
A fairly broad road led out from Sharkhe through the mountains and on the fifth day of our two weeks' march to the south from the monastery we emerged into the great bowl of the mountains in whose center lay the large lake of Koko Nor。 If Finland deserves the ordinary title of the 〃Land of Ten Thousand Lakes；〃 the dominion of Koko Nor may certainly with justice be called the 〃Country of a Million Lakes。〃 We skirted this lake on the west between it and Doulan Kitt； zigzagging between the numerous swamps； lakes and small rivers； deep and miry。 The water was not here covered with ice and only on the tops of the mountains did we feel the cold winds sharply。 We rarely met the natives of the country and only with greatest difficulty did our Kalmuck learn the course of the road from the occasional shepherds we passed。 From the eastern shore of the Lake of Tassoun we worked round to a monastery on the further side； where we stopped for a short rest。 Besides ourselves there was also another group of guests in the holy place。 These were Tibetans。 Their behavior was very impertinent and they refused to speak with us。 They were all armed； chiefly with the Russian military rifles and were draped with crossed bandoliers of cartridges with two or three pistols stowed beneath belts with more cartridges sticking out。 They examined us very sharply and we readily realized that they were estimating our martial strength。 After they had left on that same day I ordered our Kalmuck to inquire from the High Priest of the temple exactly who they were。 For a long time the monk gave evasive answers but when I showed him the ring of Hutuktu Narabanchi and presented him with a large yellow hatyk； he became more communicative。
〃Those are bad people；〃 he explained。 〃Have a care of them。〃
However； he was not willing to give their names； explaining his refusal by citing the Law of Buddhist lands against pronouncing the name of one's father； teacher or chief。 Afterwards I found out that in North Tibet there exists the same custom as in North China。 Here and there bands of hunghutze wander about。 They appear at the headquarters of the leading trading firms and at the monasteries； claim tribute and after their collections become the protectors of the district。 Probably this Tibetan monastery had in this band just such protectors。
When we continued our trip； we frequently noticed single horsemen far away or on the horizon； apparently studying our movements with care。 All our attempts to approach them and enter into conversation with them were entirely unsuccessful。 On their speedy little horses they disappeared like shadows。 As we reached the steep and difficult Pass on the Hamshan and were preparing to spend the night there； suddenly far up on a ridge above us appeared about forty horsemen with entirely white mounts and without formal introduction or warning spattered us with a hail of bullets。 Two of our officers fell with a cry。 One had been instantly killed while the other lived some few minutes。 I did not allow my men to shoot but instead I raised a white flag and started forward with the Kalmuck for a parley。 At first they fired two shots at us but then ceased firing and sent down a group of riders from the ridge toward us。 We began the parley。 The Tibetans explained that Hamshan is a holy mountain and that here one must not spend the night； advising us to proceed farther where we could consider ourselves in safety。 They inquired from us whence we came and whither we were going； stated in answer to our information about the purpose of our journey that they knew the Bolsheviki and considered them the liberators of the people of Asia from the yoke of the white race。 I certainly did not want to begin a political quarrel with them and so turned back to our companions。 Riding down the slope toward our camp； I waited momentarily for a shot in the back but the Tibetan hunghutze did not shoot。
We moved forward； leaving among the stones the bodies of two of our companions as sad tribute to the difficulties and dangers of our journey。 We rode all night； with our exhausted horses constantly stopping and some lying down under us； but we forced them ever onward。 At last； when the sun was at its zenith； we finally halted。 Without unsaddling our horses； we gave them an opportunity to lie down for a little rest。 Before us lay a broad； swampy
