elizabethpeters.thegoldenone-第83章

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　Jan。　2。　One　of　the　reasons　why　Luxor　feels　like　my　hometown　is　that　I　keep　running　into　old　friends。　Yesterday　it　was　Bob　B；　he　was　ing　into　the　hotel　as　I　was　leaving　it；　both　of　us　on　our　way　to　different　places；　so　he　and　his　wife　and　I　agreed　to　have　dinner　this　evening。
　　
　It's　misty　tonight。　The　western　cliffs　are　almost　invisible　behind　a　cloud；　and　the　sun　was　white　before　it　sank　behind　said　cloudbank；　with　no　pyrotechnical　display。　Now　the　lights　are　ing　on　along　the　west　bank；　including　two　lonely　stars　that　mark　the　location　of　the　guard　posts　high　on　the　hill。　Must　be　a　lonely　job　…　and　a　cursed　long　climb。　What　a　contrast　below；　in　the　twilight。　A　tourist　steamer　heads　south；　lit　up　like　a　multi　level　parking　lot　（these　boats　really　are　awfully　homely）。　Half　a　dozen　feluccas；　with　their　graceful　triangular　sails；　glide　by；　and　the　little　motorboats　chug　back　and　forth。　They　are　gay　with　bright　paint　and　（rather　grubby）　cushions　and　funny　insignia。　
　　
　Tour　busses　whiz　past　（well；　they　go　fairly　slowly；　in　fact；　the　traffic　on　the　corniche　includes　bicycles；　taxis；　and　carriages）；　two　caleches　filled　with　Egyptians　singing　and　chanting　and　beating　a　drum；　the　muezzin's　〃Allahu　Akhbar。〃　I　do　so　love　this　place。　This　is　the　last　night　in　Luxor　for　this　trip。
　　
　Later。　Had　a　good　time　with　the　B's　this　evening；　they　came　to　my　room　at　six；　with　a　bottle　of　wine。　Rather　than　call　room　service；　who　had　stolen　the　glasses　again；　I　washed　my　tooth　glasses。
　　
　Jan。　3。　I　seem　to　have　gotten　a　slight　second　wind　lately；　partly　because　I　haven't　done　much　except　sit　around；　and　partly　because　I　am　looking　forward　to　spending　more　time　with　the　Expedition。　I　will　be　on　the　boat　with　them　from　Assuan　to　Luxor；　and　then　we　have　one　more　day　in　Cairo　before　flying　out。　（From　then　on　it's　going　to　be　grim　…　that　grisly　one…thirty　a。m。　flight　home。　All　in　all　I　have　eight　flights　on　this　trip。　Have　I　mentioned　that　before？）
　　
　Had　lunch　with　some　of　the　ladies　from　the　tour　and　then　wandered　over　to　the　arcade　by　Abouti's　to　look　for　a　slip。　（I　lost　mine　in　Cairo　…　don't　ask　how。）　No　luck　of　course。　
　　
　Abouti's　is　the　best　bookstore　in　Luxor　for　Egyptological　stuff；　but　its　selection　of　fiction　is　pretty　limited。　Have　seen　my　French　editions　at　two　places　in　Luxor；　plus　one　German。　None　of　the　English。　Transitions　are　a　pain　…　packing；　looking　for　missing　articles；　cashing　travelers'　checks；　paying　bills；　tipping　everybody。　The　first　part　of　the　trip　was　fine　…　I　even　got　a　smile　and　a　handshake　from　the　grumpy　guy　at　the　bank。　It　isn't　surprising　that　he　is　grumpy；　some　of　his　customers　are　rude　and　unreasonable。　He'd　been　very　nice　since　the　time　during　Ramadan　when　I　walked　in　to　find　him　reading　from　the　Koran；　I　immediately　stepped　back　and　told　him　to　finish　his　chapter　or　whatever；　that　I　could　wait。　I　was　rewarded　when　he　asked　if　I　would　like　him　to　read　aloud。　It　was　beautiful　…　sung　rather　than　read；　in　a　sonorous　baritone。　He　had　studied　to　be　a　muezzin。
　　
　Later。　I'm　getting　to　know　Luxor　airport　（excuse　me；　International　Airport　…　there　are　direct　flights　from　Gatwick　in　England）　only　too　well。　The　plane　was　on　time；　meaning　it　left　only　half　an　hour　late。　（U。S。　lines　don't　do　any　better。）　You're　barely　up　before　you　e　down；　flying　time　is　only　about　twenty　minutes。　There　was　an　interminable　wait　for　baggage；　so　Khaled　and　Bill　had　been　waiting　some　time　and　were　being　agitated。　I　suppose　losing　me　would　be　a　black　mark。
　　
　On　board。　They　are　very　nice　to　me。　The　suite　isn't　much；　a　tiny　sitting　room　and　bedroom　and　no　whirlpool！　…　but　it's　the　best　the　boat　offers。　There　are　some　lovely　old　Turkoman　rugs　and　a　TV　（can't　get　anything　on　it）；　and　everything　is　spotlessly　clean。　Even　Amelia　would　approve。　This　boat；　like　many　others　here；　belongs　to　the　Queen　Nabila　line。　We're　right　up　against　the　dock；　but　the　boats　are　lined　up　side　by　side　as　usual；　two　or　three　deep；　and　from　my　plate　glass　window　I　can　see　…　another　set　of　identical　windows。　For　about　ten　minutes　I　had　a　lovely　view　of　the　river　while　one　boat　pulled　away；　but　another　one　promptly　took　its　place。　
　　
　Jan。　4。　Most　of　the　gang　went　to　Abu　Simbel　this　morning。　They　had　to　get　up　at　four…thirty。　Need　I　say　I　did　not　go　with　them？　（Been　there。）　Shopped　the　suk　with　Bill　and　Nancy　instead。　Suk　is　more　authentic　than　Luxor；　but　I　fear　the　good　local　handicrafts　are　fading　out；　to　be　replaced　by　t…shirts　and　junk。　Bought　spices　and　three　embroidered　pillowcases；　not　nearly　as　nice　as　the　ones　at　Luxor　just　last　year。　Work　is　cruder；　colors　gaudier。
　　
　After　lunch　（the　food　is　fatteningly　good　and　hard　to　resist）；　we　took　feluccas　to　Elephantine　Island。　More　damned　wobbly　eight…inch　gangplanks！　The　old　museum；　once　the　home　of　the　engineer　who　designed　the　first　dam；　looks　odd　with　its　Victorian　trim　and　wide　veranda。　We　visited　it　a　couple　of　years　ago；　poor　shabby　neglected　place；　and　the　curator　was　pathetically　grateful　for　pany。　So　I　didn't　go　in。　Most　of　the　good　stuff　has　been　removed　to　the　new　Assuan　Museum。　Wish　I　could　say　something　sensible　about　the　excavations；　which　were　closed　to　visitors　last　time　I　was　here；　they　are　extensive　and　fascinating；　but　it　was　a　maze　to　me。　There's　no　guidebook　and　the　only　publications　are　in　obscure　（to　me）　German　professional　journals。
　　
　Jan。　5。　Went　to　the　Assuan　Museum　alone；　I　had　never　seen　it。　On　entering　whom　should　I　see　but　John　and　Debbie　…　I　love　these　serendipitous　encounters；　they　only　happen　to　me　in　Egypt！　But　John　was　all　bandaged　and　battered　from　an　accident：　A　truck　ahead　of　them　turned　a　corner　too　fast　and　dumped　a　boulder　on　the　front　of　the　Land　Rover；　shattering　the　window　and　more。　You　see　trucks　like　that　on　the　road　all　the　time；　overloaded　and　without　tailgates。　It's　a　miracle　more　people　aren't　injured。　（Maybe　they　are。）　
　　
　It's　a　splendid　museum　…　beautiful　architecture；　objects　well　displayed　…　and　John　and　Debbie　were　wonderful　guides。　We　went　back　to　town　about　eleven　and　found　a　place　on　the　corniche　…　lower　level；　actually　on　the　water。　They　had　lunch　and　I　kerkedah　…　a　deep　red；　sweet；　ice　cold　drink　made　from　stewed　hibiscus　blossoms。　Resisted　the　urge　to　purchase　the　blossoms　in　the　suk　this　year　…　in　Egypt　it　is　delicious；　when　I　make　it　at　home　it　tastes　awful！　The　boat　was　to　sail　at　12：30。　I　figured　I　might　have　some　difficulty　finding　it；　since　I　had　been　warned　it　would　be　moved；　preparatory　to　sailing。　I　was　right；　but　we　did　find　it　eventually。　John　and　Debbie　saw　me　to　the　gangplank　of　the　innermost　boat　（docked　where　ours　had　been　this　morning）　where　we　met　a　couple　of　other　people　from　the　tour；　who　greeted　me　and　I　them　with　shouts　of　joy。　We　had　to　go　through　three　boats　to　reach　ours；　they　tie　them　up　so　that　the　lobbies　adjoin；　and　it's　kind　of　interesting　to　see　what　other　boats　are　like。　
　　
　I've　gotten　to　know　most　of　the　people　by　now　and　have　chatted　with　most；　though　I　will　never　get　everybody's　name　straight；　I'm　hopeless　about　names。　This　is　a　great　bunch。　Phil　and　Kathe　came　back　from　shopping　with　a　bottle　of　gin　for　me。　That's　what　you　get　when　you　expose　your　vices　and　plain　aloud　（there　is　no　gin　at　the　bar　of　the　boat。）　It's　Egyptian　gin　and　probably　quite　vile；　but　what　a　sweet　thought　…　n。b。；　I　brought　it　down　to　the　bar　next　night　and　made　everybody　sample　it。　Tasted　like　grappa　or　anisette！　After　I　had　swilled　some　down　someone　told　me　I　shouldn't　have　because　sanitation　is　questionable；　but　I　figured　90　proof　alcohol　would　kill　most　everything。
　　
　Lunch　on　the　upper　deck；　then　departure。　I　do　like　sailing。　The　weather　is　perfect；　sunny；　and　not　too　windy。　My　window　faces　east。　There's　not　much　village　life；　only　lots　and　lots　of　palms；　with　the　golden　brown　hills　behind。　Road　and　railroad　on　this　bank　from　Hammadi　south；　sometimes　they　run　close　to　the　river；　so　you　can　see　a　car　or　a　train。　
　　
　Jan。　6。　We　arrived　at　Edfu　last　night　and　tied　up；　if　that　is　the　phrase。　Bill　had　the　gang　off　the　boat　at　seven　a。m。　to　see　the　temple。　I　watched　them　placently　through　a　slit　in　my　curtains　as　they　got　into　carriages。　It's　a　bustling；　busy　scene。　Across　the　street；　shops　display　the　conventional　tourist　stuff；　galabeeyahs　and　those　gaudy　sequined　shifts；　shawls；　and　scarves。　Racks　of　Baraka　bottles；　Coke；　and　soft　drinks；　a　cafe　with　plastic　chairs　of　red　and　yellow。　The　occupants　of　an　apartment　building　across　the　street　have　hung　their　bedding　and　clothes　out　to　air；　over　the　edge　of　the　balconies。　Two　elegant　old　wrought…iron　Victorian　style　lampposts　flank　the　top　of　the　stairs　that　lead　up　to　the　street　from　the　waterfront。　The　steps　are　crumbling　and　uneven；　and　sometimes；　depending　on　where　the　boat　docks；　you　have　to　pick　your　way　over　broken　concrete　and　stones　to　reach　the　steps。　
　　
　It's　all　part　of　the　Egyptian　experience。　。　。
　　
　Bill　has　certainly　kept　the　gang　busy。　When　they　aren't　rushing　around　at　odd　hours　seeing　sites；　they　are　being　entertained。　The　first　night　at　Aswan　it　was　Nubian　dancing　…　a　lot　of　horseplay　（pun：　part　of　it　was　two　guys　in　a　horse　suit）　…　but　some　was　quite　splendid　and　the　drums　and　tambourines　were　expertly　played。　For　one　song　a　little　old　gent　in　a　turban　strode　in　and　tootled　on　a　pipe　along　with　the　drums。　
　　
　Part　of　the　fun　is　dragging　the　tourists　up　to　dance　…　I'm　sure　the　locals　find　it　very　funny　…　and　I　finally　got　dragged　up　too　and　made；　I　am　sure；　a　perfect　idiot　of　myself；　but　I　got　lots　of　applause。　I　wore　my　Nubian　lady's　black　dress　with　a　deep　ruffle　around　the　hem。　Everybody　was　supposed　to　wear　Egyptian　garb；　and　some　of　the　outfits　were　great。　These　people　are　really　good　sports　…　they'll　try　anything。
　　
　Next　night　was　Victorian　night；　in　honor　of　Amelia；　and　I　made　an　exhibition　of　myself　again　trying　to　waltz　with　Phil。　Stepped　all　over　his　feet。　The　dear　person　whirled　most　of　the　women　round　the　floor　to　Strauss　waltzes。　None　of　the　other　men　danced；　poor　shy　things。　Last　night　was　Bill's　mystery；　featuring　stolen　antiquities　and　a　gold　dagger　and　a　corpse　on　the　bed　in　the　spare　room。　Bill　was　very　funny　as　Lord　Carnivore；　in　plus　fours　and　Holmes　hat；　stick；　and　huge　calabash　pipe。　Everybody　entered　into　it　with　great　good　spirits；　but　we　didn't　solve　the　mystery。　We　were　having　such　a　good　time　we　failed　to　notice　the　suspects　sneaking　out　of　the　room　at　important　moments。　There　are　a　few　other　groups　on　the　boat　…　French　and　Spanish；　I　think　…　who　must　think　we　are　mad。　We　take　over　the　saloon　every　night　and　carry　on　outrageously。　There　is　a　lot　of　talent　in　this　bunch。　They　sing；　they　dance；　they　write　skits　and　perform　them；　all　with　an　engaging　lack　of　inhibition。
　　
　Some　of　these　nice　people　have　brought　books　all　the　way　from　the　states　for　me　to　sign。　Others　packed　voluminous　fancy　garments　…　Victorian　gowns　and　Edwardian　blouses　and　extravagant　hats　…　so　they　could　participate　in　the　various　entertainments。　People　get　confidential　in　such　surroundings　and　I've　heard　more　than　once　that　a　particular　book　〃helped　me　through　a　bad　time。〃　I'm　so　pleased　if　that　is　true。　I　just　wrote　the　way　I　felt；　not　with　any　aim　in　mind　except　entertainment；　but　it　makes　me　feel　great　to　he