worldly ways and byways(世俗之路)-第30章
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vegetables； an hour or two before meal time。 The food； thus arranged； is
placed in vast steam closets； where it simmers gayly for hours； in its own；
and fifty other vapors。
Any one who knows the rudiments of cookery； will recognize that with
this system no viand can have any particular flavor； the partridges having a
taste of their neighbor the roast beef； which in turn suggests the plum
pudding it has been 〃chumming〃 with。
It is not alone in a hotel that we miss the good in grasping after the
better。 Small housekeeping is apparently run on the same lines。
A young Frenchman； who was working in my rooms； told me in reply
to a question regarding prices； that every kind of food was cheaper here
than abroad； but the prejudice against certain dishes was so strong in this
country that many of the best things in the markets were never called for。
Our nation is no longer in its 〃teens〃 and should cease to act like a foolish
boy who has inherited （what appears to him） a limitless fortune； not for
fear of his coming； like his prototype in the parable； to live on 〃husks〃 for
he is doing that already； but lest like the dog of the fable； in grasping after
the shadow of a banquet he miss the simple meal that is within his reach。
One of the reasons for this deplorable state of affairs lies in the foolish
education our girls receive。 They learn so little housekeeping at home； that
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when married they are obliged to begin all over again； unless they prefer；
like a majority of their friends； to let things as go at the will and discretion
of the 〃lady〃 below stairs。
At both hotels I have referred to； the families of the men interested
considered it beneath them to know what was taking place。 The 〃daughter〃
of the New England house went semi…weekly to Boston to take violin
lessons at ten dollars each； although she had no intention of becoming a
professional； while the wife wrote poetry and ignored the hotel side of her
life entirely。
The 〃better half〃 of the Florida establishment hired a palace in Rome
and entertained ambassadors。 Hotels divided against themselves are apt to
be establishments where you pay for riotous living and are served only
with husks。
We have many hard lessons ahead of us； and one of the hardest will be
for our nation to learn humbly from the thrifty emigrants on our shores；
the great art of utilizing the 〃tails〃 that are at this moment being so
recklessly thrown away。
As it is； in spite of markets overflowing with every fish； vegetable； and
tempting viand； we continue to be the worst fed； most meagrely nourished
of all the wealthy nations on the face of the earth。 We have a saying （for an
excellent reason unknown on the Continent） that Providence provides us
with food and the devil sends the cooks！ It would be truer to say that the
poorer the food resources of a nation； the more restricted the choice of
material； the better the cooks； a small latitude when providing for the table
forcing them to a hundred clever combinations and mysterious devices to
vary the monotony of their cuisine and tempt a palate； by custom staled。
Our heedless people； with great variety at their disposition； are
unequal to the situation； wasting and discarding the best； and making
absolutely nothing of their advantages。 If we were enjoying our
prodigality by living on the fat of the land； there would be less reason to
reproach ourselves； for every one has a right to live as he pleases。 But as it
is； our foolish prodigals are spending their substance； while eating the
husks！
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CHAPTER 30 … The Faubourg of St。
Germain
THERE has been too much said and written in the last dozen years
about breaking down the 〃great wall〃 behind which the aristocrats of the
famous Faubourg； like the Celestials； their prototypes； have ensconced
themselves。 The Chinese speak of outsiders as 〃barbarians。〃 The French
ladies refer to such unfortunates as being 〃beyond the pale。〃 Almost all
that has been written is arrant nonsense； that imaginary barrier exists to…
day on as firm a foundation； and is guarded by sentinels as vigilant as
when； forty years ago； Napoleon （third of the name） and his Spanish
spouse mounted to its assault。
Their repulse was a bitter humiliation to the PARVENUE Empress；
whose resentment took the form （along with many other curious results） of
opening the present Boulevard St。 Germain； its line being intentionally
carried through the heart of that quarter； teeming with historic 〃Hotels〃 of
the old aristocracy； where beautiful constructions were mercilessly torn
down to make way for the new avenue。 The cajoleries which Eugenie first
tried and the blows that followed were alike unavailing。 Even her worship
of Marie Antoinette； between whom and herself she found imaginary
resemblances； failed to warm the stony hearts of the proud old ladies； to
whom it was as gall and wormwood to see a nobody crowned in the palace
of their kings。 Like religious communities； persecution only drew this old
society more firmly together and made them stand by each other in their
distress。 When the Bois was remodelled by Napoleon and the lake with its
winding drive laid out； the new Court drove of an afternoon along this
water front。 That was enough for the old swells！ They retired to the remote
〃Allee of the Acacias；〃 and solemnly took their airing away from the
bustle of the new world； incidentally setting a fashion that has held good
to this day； the lakeside being now deserted； and the 〃Acacias〃 crowded of
an afternoon； by all that Paris holds of elegant and inelegant。
Where the brilliant Second Empire failed； the Republic had little
chance of success。 With each succeeding year the 〃Old Faubourg〃
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withdrew more and more into its shell； going so far； after the fall of Mac
Mahon； as to change its 〃season〃 to the spring； so that the balls and
FETES it gave should not coincide with the 〃official〃 entertainments
during the winter。
The next people to have a 〃shy〃 at the 〃Old Faubourg's〃 Gothic
battlements were the Jews； who were victorious in a few light skirmishes
and succeeded in capturing one or two illustrious husbands for their
daughters。 The wily Israelites； however； discovered that titled sons…in…law
were expensive articles and often turned out unsatisfactorily； so they
quickly desisted。 The English； the most practical of societies； have always
left the Faubourg alone。 It has been reserved for our countrywomen to lay
the most determined siege yet recorded to that untaken stronghold。
It is a characteristic of the American temperament to be unable to see a
closed door without developing an intense curiosity to know what is
behind； or to read 〃No Admittance to the Public〃 over an entrance without
immediately determining to get inside at any price。 So it is easy to
understand the attraction an hermetically sealed society would have for
our fair compatriots。 Year after year they have flung themselves against its
closed gateways。 Repulsed； they have retired only to form again for the
attack； but are as far away to…day from planting their flag in that citadel as
when they first began。 It does not matter to them what is inside； there may
be （as in this case） only mouldy old halls and a group of people with
antiquated ideas and ways。 It is enough for a certain type of woman to
know that she is not wanted in an exclusive circle； to be ready to die in the
attempt to get there。 This point of view reminds one of Mrs。 Snob's saying
about a new arrival at a hotel： 〃I am sure she must be 'somebody' for she
was so rude to me when I spoke to her；〃 and her answer to her daughter
when the girl said （on arriving at a watering…place） that she had noticed a
very nice family 〃who look as if they wanted to know us； Mamma：〃
〃Then； my dear；〃 replied Mamma Snob； 〃they certainly are not people
we want to meet！〃
The men in French society are willing enough to make acquaintance
with foreigners。 You may see the youth of the Faubourg dancing at
American balls in Paris； or running over for occasional visits to this
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country。 But when it comes to taking their women…kind with them； it is a
different matter。 Americans who have known well…born Frenchmen at
school or college are surprised； on meeting them later； to be asked
（cordially enough） to dine EN GARCON at a restaurant； although their
Parisian friend is married。 An Englishman's or American's first word
would be on a like occasion：
〃Come and dine with me to…night。 I want to introduce you to my wife。〃
Such an idea would never cross a Frenchman's mind！
One American I know is a striking example of this。 He was born in
Paris； went to school and college there； and has lived in that city all his life。
His sister married a French nobleman。 Yet at this moment； in spite of his
wealth； his charming American wife； and many beautiful entertainments；
he has not one warm French friend； or the ENTREE on a footing of
intimacy to a single Gallic house。
There is no analogy between the English aristocracy and the French
nobility； except that they are both antiquated institutions； the English is the
more harmful on account of its legislative power； the French is the more
pretentious。 The House of Lords is the
