worldly ways and byways(世俗之路)-第32章
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〃repose of manner；〃 and living up to the standard of his set。
The model young man of that period had another offensive habit； his
pose of never seeing you； which got on the nerves of his elders to a
considerable extent。 If he came into a drawing…room where you were
sitting with a lady； he would shake hands with her and begin a
conversation； ignoring your existence； although you may have been his
guest at dinner the night before； or he yours。 This was also a tenet of his
creed borrowed from trans…Atlantic cousins； who； by the bye； during the
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time I speak of； found America； and especially our Eastern states； a happy
hunting…ground； … all the clubs； country houses； and society generally
opening their doors to the 〃sesame〃 of English nationality。 It took our
innocent youths a good ten years to discover that there was no reciprocity
in the arrangement； it was only in the next epoch （the list of the three
referred to） that our men recovered their self…respect； and assumed
towards foreigners in general the attitude of polite indifference which is
their manner to us when abroad。 Nothing could have been more provincial
and narrow than the ideas of our 〃smart〃 men at that time。 They
congregated in little cliques； huddling together in public； and cracking
personal old jokes； but were speechless with MAUVAISE HONTE if
thrown among foreigners or into other circles of society。 All this is not to
be wondered at considering the amount of their general education and
reading。 One charming little custom then greatly in vogue among our
JEUNESSE DOREE was to remain at a ball； after the other guests had
retired； tipsy； and then break anything that came to hand。 It was so
amusing to throw china； glass； or valuable plants； out of the windows； to
strip to the waist and box or bait the tired waiters。
I look at the boys growing up around me with sincere admiration； they
are so superior to their predecessors in breeding； in civility； in deference to
older people； and in a thousand other little ways that mark high…bred men。
The stray Englishman； of no particular standing at home no longer finds
our men eager to entertain him； to put their best 〃hunter〃 at his disposition；
to board； lodge； and feed him indefinitely； or make him honorary member
of all their clubs。 It is a constant source of pleasure to me to watch this
younger generation； so plainly do I see in them the influence of their
mothers … women I knew as girls； and who were so far ahead of their
brothers and husbands in refinement and culture。 To have seen these girls
marry and bring up their sons so well has been a satisfaction and a
compensation for many disillusions。 Woman's influence will always
remain the strongest lever that can be brought to bear in raising the tone of
a family； it is impossible not to see about these young men a reflection of
what we found so charming in their mothers。 One despairs at times of
humanity； seeing vulgarity and snobbishness riding triumphantly upward；
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but where the tone of the younger generation is as high as I have lately
found it； there is still much hope for the future。
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CHAPTER 32 … An Ideal Hostess
THE saying that 〃One…half of the world ignores how the other half
lives〃 received for me an additional confirmation this last week； when I
had the good fortune to meet again an old friend； now for some years
retired from the stage； where she had by her charm and beauty； as well as
by her singing； held all the Parisian world at her pretty feet。
Our meeting was followed on her part by an invitation to take
luncheon with her the next day； 〃to meet a few friends； and talk over old
times。〃 So half…past twelve （the invariable hour for the 〃second breakfast；〃
in France） the following day found me entering a shady drawing…room；
where a few people were sitting in the cool half…light that strayed across
from a canvas…covered balcony furnished with plants and low chairs。
Beyond one caught a glimpse of perhaps the gayest picture that the bright
city of Paris offers； … the sweep of the Boulevard as it turns to the Rue
Royale； the flower market； gay with a thousand colors in the summer
sunshine； while above all the color and movement； rose； cool and gray； the
splendid colonnade of the Madeleine。 The rattle of carriages； the roll of the
heavy omnibuses and the shrill cries from the street below floated up；
softened into a harmonious murmur that in no way interfered with our
conversation； and is sweeter than the finest music to those who love their
Paris。
Five or six rooms EN SUITE opening on the street； and as many more
on a large court； formed the apartment； where everything betrayed the
ARTISTE and the singer。 The walls； hung with silk or tapestry； held a
collection of original drawings and paintings； a fortune in themselves； the
dozen portraits of our hostess in favorite roles were by men great in the art
world； a couple of pianos covered with well…worn music and numberless
photographs signed with names that would have made an autograph…
fiend's mouth water。
After a gracious； cooing welcome； more whispered than spoken； I was
presented to the guests I did not know。 Before this ceremony was well
over； two maids in black； with white caps； opened a door into the dining…
room and announced luncheon。 As this is written on the theme that
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〃people know too little how their neighbors live；〃 I give the MENU。 It
may amuse my readers and serve； perhaps； as a little object lesson to those
at home who imagine that quantity and not quality is of importance。
Our gracious hostess had earned a fortune in her profession （and I am
told that two CHEFS preside over her simple meals）； so it was not a spirit
of economy which dictated this simplicity。 At first； HORS D'OEUVRES
were served； … all sorts of tempting little things； … very thin slices of ham；
spiced sausages； olives and caviar； and eaten … not merely passed and
refused。 Then came the one hot dish of the meal。 〃One！〃 I think I hear my
reader exclaim。 Yes； my friend； but that one was a marvel in its way。
Chicken A L'ESPAGNOLE； boiled； and buried in rice and tomatoes
cooked whole … a dish to be dreamed of and remembered in one's prayers
and thanksgivings！ After at least two helpings each to this CHEF…
D'OEUVRE； cold larded fillet and a meat pate were served with the salad。
Then a bit of cheese； a beaten cream of chocolate； fruit； and bon…bons。 For
a drink we had the white wine from which champagne is made （by a
chemical process and the addition of many injurious ingredients）； in other
words； a pure BRUT champagne with just a suggestion of sparkle at the
bottom of your glass。 All the party then migrated together into the
smoking…room for cigarettes； coffee； and a tiny glass of LIQUEUR。
These details have been given at length； not only because the meal
seemed to me； while I was eating it； to be worthy of whole columns of
print； but because one of the besetting sins of our dear land is to serve a
profusion of food no one wants and which the hostess would never have
dreamed of ordering had she been alone。
Nothing is more wearisome than to sit at table and see course after
course； good； bad； and indifferent； served； after you have eaten what you
want。 And nothing is more vulgar than to serve them； for either a guest
refuses a great deal of the food and appears uncivil； or he must eat； and
regret it afterwards。 If we ask people to a meal； it should be to such as we
eat； as a general thing； ourselves； and such as they would have at home。
Otherwise it becomes ostentation and vulgarity。 Why should one be
expelled to eat more than usual because a friend has been nice enough to
ask one to take one's dinner with him； instead of eating it alone？ It is the
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being among friends that tempts； not the food； the fact at skilful waiters
have been able to serve a dozen varieties of fish； flesh； and fowl during the
time you were at table has added little to any one's pleasure。 On the
contrary！ Half the time one eats from pure absence of mind； a number of
most injurious mixtures and so prepares an awful to…morrow and the
foundation of many complicated diseases。
I see Smith and Jones daily at the club； where we dine cheerfully
together on soup； a cut of the joint； a dessert； and drink a pint of claret。 But
if either Mrs。 Smith or Mrs。 Jones asks me to dinner； we have eight
courses and half as many wines； and Smith will say quite gravely to me；
〃Try this '75 'Perrier Jouet'；〃 as if he were in the habit of drinking it daily。
It makes me smile； for he would as soon think of ordering a bottle of that
wine at the club as he would think of ordering a flask of nectar。
But to return to our 〃mutton。〃 As we had none of us eaten too much
（and so become digesting machines）； we were cheerful and sprightly。 A
little music followed and an author repeated some of his poetry。 I
