cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第11章

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desired。　This　is　the　most　ancient　system　of　artificial　irrigation　by
machinery；　and　it　is　better　adapted　for　the　requirements　of　this　country
than　any　expensive　European　inventions。　As　I　shall　devote　a　chapter
specially　to　the　all…important　question　of　irrigation；　I　shall　postpone
further　remarks　upon　the　cattle…wheel；　but　the　farm　in　question　which
formed　a　solitary　green　oasis　in　the　vast　expanse　of　withered　surface
was　a　sufficient　example　of　the　necessity；　and　of　the　fruitful　result　of
this　simple　and　inexpensive　method。　It　is　a　mere　question　of　outlay；　and
the　government　must　assist　the　cultivators　by　loans　for　the　special
erection　of　water…wheels。　But　of　this　more　hereafter。

At　about　six　miles　from　Dali　we　struck　the　road　between　Larnaca　and
Lefkosia　（or　Nicosia）。　The　newly…established　mail…coach　with　four　horses
passed　us；　with　only　one　passenger。　We　met　it　again　on　the　following
day；　with　a　solitary　unit；　and　it　appeared　that　the　four　horses　on　many
occasions　had　no　other　weight　behind　them　than　the　driver　and　the
letters。　With　this　instance　of　inertia　before　their　eyes；　certain
lunatics　（or　WISE　CONTRACTORS）　suggested　the　necessity　of　a　railway　for
twenty…eight　miles　to　connect　the　two　capitals！　The　mail　had　an
ephemeral　existence；　and　after　running　fruitlessly　to　and　fro　for　a　few
months；　it　withdrew　altogether；　leaving　an　abundant　space　in　Cyprus　for
my　two　vans；　without　the　slightest　chance　of　a　collision　upon　the　new
highway；　as　there　were　no　other　carriages　on　the　roads；　excepting　the
few　native　two…wheeled　carts。

We　halted　five　miles　from　Lefkosia；　where　a　new　stone　bridge　was　in
process　of　construction　and　was　nearly　completed。　We　had　already　passed
a　long　and　extremely　narrow　Turkish　bridge　across　the　river　about　four
miles　in　our　rear。　By　pacing　I　made　the　new　bridge　twenty…nine　feet；　the
same　width　as　the　road；　and　I　could　not　help　thinking　that　a　much　less
expensive　commencement　would　have　been　sufficient　to　meet　the
requirements　of　the　country。　In　Cyprus　the　rainfall　is　generally　slight
and　the　earth　is　tenacious；　and　in　dry　weather　exceedingly　hard；　if　half
the　width　of　the　road　had　been　carefully　metalled　in　the　first　instance；
a　great　expense　would　have　been　saved　at　a　time　when　the　island　was
sadly　in　want　of　money；　the　natural　surface　of　the　firm　soil　would　have
been　preferred　by　all　vehicles　except　during　rain；　when　they　would　have
adopted　the　metalled　parallel　way。　It　is　easy　to　criticise　after　the
event；　and　there　can　be　no　doubt　that　upon　our　first　occupation　of　the
island　a　much　greater　traffic　was　expected；　and　the　road　between　the　two
capitals　was　arranged　accordingly。　We　halted　for　the　night　at　the　new
stone　bridge；　which；　as　usual　in　Cyprus；　spanned　a　channel　perfectly
devoid　of　water。　On　the　following　morning　we　marched　to　Lefkosia；　and
passing　to　the　left　of　the　walled　town；　we　reached　the　newly…erected
Government　House；　about　a　mile　and　a　half　distant；　where　we　received　a
kind　and　hospitable　welcome　from　the　High　Commissioner；　Sir　Garnet；　and
Lady　Wolseley。

The　position　of　the　new　Government　House　was　well　chosen。　The　character
of　the　dreary　plain　of　Messaria　is　the　same　throughout；　flat
table…topped　hills　of　sedimentary　calcareous　limestone；　abounding　with
fossil　shells；　represent　the　ancient　sea…bottom；　which　has　been
upheaved。　The　surface　of　these　table…heights　is　hard　for　a　depth　of
about　six　feet；　forming　an　upper　stratum　of　rock　which　can　be　used　for
building；　beneath　this　are　marls　and　friable　cretaceous　stone；　which
during　rains　are　washed　away。　The　continual　process　of　undermining　by
the　decay　of　the　lower　strata　has　caused　periodical　disruption　of　the
hard　upper　stratum；　which　has　fallen　off　in　huge　blocks　and　rolled　down
the　rough　inclines　that　form　the　sides。　As　the　water　during　heavy　rains
percolates　through　the　crevices　of　the　upper　stratum；　it　dissolves　the
softer　material　beneath；　and　oozing　through　the　steep　inclination；
carries　large　quantities　in　solution　to　the　lower　level　and　deposits
this　fertilising　marl　upon　the　plain　below。　In　this　manner　the　low
ground　of　the　rich　but　dreary　Messaria　has　been　formed　through　the　decay
and　denudation　of　the　higher　levels；　and　the　process　will　continue　until
the　present　table…topped　hills　shall　be　entirely　washed　away。　The　stone
of　the　upper　surface；　which　forms　a　hard　crust　to　the　friable　strata
beneath；　is　in　many　places　merely　the　roof　of　caverns　which　have　been
hollowed　out　by　the　action　of　water　as　described。

The　Government　House　was　erected　upon　one　of　these　flat…topped　hills　in
a　direct　line　about　1900　yards　from　the　nearest　portion　of　Lefkosia。　It
was　a　wooden　construction　forming　three　sides　of　a　quadrangle。　The
quarters　for　the　military　staff　were　wooden　huts；　and　the　line　of
heights　thus　occupied　could　not　fail　to　attract　the　eye　of　a　soldier　as
a　splendid　strategical　position；　completely　commanding　Lefkosia　and　the
surrounding　country。　From　this　point　an　admirable　view　was　presented
upon　all　sides。　The　river　Pedias　（the　largest　in　Cyprus）；　when　it
possessed　water；　would　flow　for　about　270　degrees　of　a　circle　around　the
base　of　the　position；　the　sides　of　the　hill　rising　abruptly　from　the
stream。　The　dry　shingly　bed　was　about　120　yards　in　width；　and　although
destitute　of　water　at　this　point；　sufficient　was　obtained　some　miles
higher　up　the　river　to　irrigate　a　portion　of　the　magnificent　plain　which
bordered　either　side。　Sir　Garnet　Wolseley　was　endeavouring　to　put　a　new
face　on　the　treeless　surface；　and　had　already　planted　several　acres　of
the　Eucalyptus　globulus　and　other　varieties　on　the　lower　ground；　while
date…palms　of　full　growth　had　been　conveyed　bodily　to　the　natural
terrace　around　the　Government　House　and　carefully　transplanted　into
pits。　This　change　was　a　considerable　relief　to　the　eye；　and　the　trees；
if　well　supplied　with　water；　will　in　a　few　years　create　a　grove　where
all　was　barrenness。

The　view　from　each　portion　of　the　terrace　is　exceedingly　interesting；　as
it　commands　a　panorama　for　a　distance　of　nearly　thirty　miles。　On　the
north　is　the　range　of　mountains；　about　twelve　miles　distant；　which　form
the　backbone　of　Cyprus；　and　run　from　east　to　west；　attaining　the　height
of　3400　feet。　This　is　a　peculiar　geological　feature　in　the　island；　as　it
is　the　only　instance　of　compact　（or　jurassic）　limestone。　Through　my
powerful　astronomical　telescope　I　could　plainly　distinguish　every　rock；
and　the　Castle　of　Buffavento　upon　the　summit　of　the　perpendicular　crags
afforded　an　interesting　object；　although　invisible　to　the　naked　eye。　The
south　and　east　presented　a　miserable　aspect　in　the　brown　desert…like
plain　of　Messaria；　broken　by　the　numerous　flat…topped　hills　to　which　I
have　already　alluded。　On　the　west　the　important　mountain…range　which
includes　Troodos　bounded　the　view　by　the　snow…capped　heights　of　the
ancient　Mount　Olympus；　between　which　several　chains　of　lower　hills
formed　a　dark　base　of　plutonic　rocks；　which　contrasted　with　the　painful
glare　of　the　immediate　foreground。　The　highest　points　of　this　range　are
Troodos；　6590　feet；　Adelphe；　5380　feet；　Makhera；　4730　feet。　These　are
the　measurements　as　they　appear　upon　the　maps；　but　the　recent　survey　by
the　Royal　Engineers　has　reduced　the　height　of　Troodos　by　250　feet。　A
green　patch　at　the　foot　of　the　Carpas　range　denoted　the　position　of
Kythrea；　about　twelve　miles　distant　east；　watered　by　the　extraordinary
spring　which　has　rendered　it　famous　both　in　ancient　and　modern　times；
and　almost　at　our　feet；　or　a　mile　in　a　direct　line；　the　fortified
capital；　Lefkosia；　presented　the　usual　picturesque　appearance　of　a
Turkish　town。　A　combination　of　date…palms；　green　orange…gardens；
minarets；　mosques；　houses　quaint　in　their　irregularity　and　colouring；
and　the　grand　old　Venetian　Cathedral；　St。　Sophia；　towering　above　all
other　buildings；　were　enclosed　within　the　high　masonry　walls　and
bastions；　comprising　a　circuit　of　three　statute　miles。

The　position　of　Lefkosia　has　been　badly　chosen；　as　it　lies　in　the　flat；
and　must　always　have　been　exposed　to　a　plunging　fire　from　an　enemy
posted　upon　the　heights。　It　was　fortified　in　the　time　of　Constantine　the
Great；　but　in　1570　the　Venetians　demolished　the　old　works　and
constructed　the　present　elaborate　fortifications。　Although　the　walls　are
in　several　places　crumbling　into　ruins；　they　are　still　imposing　in
appearance；　and　present　a　clean　front　of　masonry　flanked　by　eleven
bastions；　and　entered　by　three　gates；　those　of　Baffo；　Famagousta；　and
Kyrenia。　The　original　ditch　can　be　traced　in　various　places；　but　the
counterscarp　and　glacis　have　been　destroyed；　therefore　the　soil　has
washed　in　during　the　rainy　seasons；　and　to　an　unpractised　eye　has
obliterated　all　traces　of　the　former　important　work。　On　the　other　hand；
the　disappearance　of　the　glacis　renders　the　height　of　the　walls　still
more　imposing；　as　they　rise　for　thirty　or　forty　feet　abruptly　from　the
level　base；　and　at　a　distance　maintain　the　appearance　of　good　condition。

It　is　difficult　to　imagine　the　reason　which　induced　the　Venetians　to
reproduce　Lefkosia　after　they　had　demolished　the　original
fortifications；　but　it　is　probable　that　they　had　already　erected　the
cathedral　before　the　expected　Turkish　invasion　rendered　the　improved
defences　necessary。　Although　in　the　early　days　of　artillery　shell…fire
was　unknown；　both　the　Turks　and　Venetians　possessed　guns　of　heavy
calibre　far　exceeding　any　that　were　used　in　Great　Britain　until　recent
years。　The　marble　shot　which　are　still　to　be　seen　in　Famagousta　are　the
same　which　served　in　the　defence　of　that　fortress　in　1571。　These　are
nearly　eleven　inches　in　diameter；　while　in　the　fort　of　Kyrenia　the　stone
shot　are　still　existing；　nineteen　inches　in　diameter；　composed　of　an
exceedingly　hard　and　heavy　metamorphic　rock。　The　long　bronze　guns　which
threw　the　smaller　stone　shot　of　from　six　to　eleven　inches；　would　command
a　far　more　extensive　range　than　the　interval　of　the　heights　which
dominate　Lefkosia；　and　even　should　battering　have　been　ineffective　at
that　distance　against　walls　of　masonry；　the　plunging　fire　would　have
destroyed　the　town　and　rendered　it　untenable。

Traces　are　still　visible　of　the　Turkish　approaches　when　the　town　was
successfully　carried　by　storm　on　the　9th　of　September；　1570；　after　a
siege　of　only　forty…five　days。　The　short　duration　of　the　attack　compared
to　the　length　of　time　required　in　the　siege　of　Famagousta；　which　at
length　succumbed　to　famine；　and　not　to　direct　assaults；　is　a　proof　of
the　faulty　strategical　position　of　the　fortress　of　Lefkosia。

Most　Turkish　towns　are　supplied　with　water　by　aqueducts　from　a
considerable　distance；　which　would　naturally　be　cut　by　an　enemy　as　the
first　operation。　The　water　is　brought　to　Lefkosia　from　the　hills　at　some
miles'　distance；　and　is　of　excellent　quality；　but　the　wells　of　the　town
must　be　contaminated　by　sewage；　as　there　is　no　means　of　effective
drainage　upon　the　dead　level　of　the　town；　unless　the　original　ditch　is
turned　into　a　pestilential　cesspool。　The　filth　of　centuries　must　have
been　imbibed　by　the　soil；　and　during　the　process　of　infiltration　must　in
successive　rainy　seasons　have　found　its　way　to　the　wells。　In　case　of
invasion；　Lefkosia　could　never　ha