cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第15章

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landmark　for　all　sailors；　was　the　castle　of　Buffavento；　cutting　the　blue
sky…line　3240　feet　above　the　sea。　Exactly　opposite；　at　about　sixty　miles
distance；　were　the　snow…capped　mountains　of　Caramania；　which　in　the
transparent　atmosphere　seemed　to　be　within　a　day's　long　march。　Far；　far
away　along　the　north…eastern　shore；　and　also　towards　the　west；　all　was
lovely：　I　could　only　regret　that　all　vessels　and　strangers　must　arrive
in　the　unfortunate　ports　of　the　Messaria；　instead　of　gaining　such
favourable　first　impressions　as　would　be　induced　by　the　lovely　picture
of　Cyprus　from　the　north。

While　I　had　been　admiring　the　view；　my　dogs　had　been　hunting　the　dense
bushes　to　very　little　purpose；　and　although　we　scrambled　for　more　than
two　hours　over　the　mountain；　we　only　moved　ten　or　twelve　red…legged
partridges；　which　rose　upwards　of　a　hundred　yards　in　front　of　the　gun；
it　was　quite　impossible　to　obtain　a　shot。　With　an　empty　bag；　but　with　a
new　impression　of　the　country　since　my　view　of　the　landscape　in　the
north；　I　turned　homewards；　and　reached　camp　late　in　the　afternoon；　my
spaniels　having　no　doubt　a　low　opinion　of　Cyprus　sport；　and　of　the
unfair　advantages　taken　by　the　ever…running　red…legged　partridges。

On　16th　February　a　painful　conviction　was　established　that　Cyprus　was
unfitted　for　wheeled　carriages　and　springs。　Although　the　plain　appeared
flat　and　without　natural　obstacles；　the　ground　had　been　completely
traversed　by　deep　trenches　for　the　purpose　of　checking　and　conducting
surface　water　to　the　fields　in　the　event　of　a　heavy　shower。　Our　course
should　have　been　directly　across　the　plain　to　intersect　the　road　from
Lefkosia　to　Famagousta；　but　a　glance　at　the　intervening　country　showed
the　impossibility　of　moving　the　vans　through　the　miles　of　green　crops
which　were　nourished　by　innumerable　watercourses；　each　of　which　must　be
levelled　before　we　could　advance。　It　was　therefore　necessary　to　retrace
our　steps　to　within　a　mile　and　a　half　of　Lefkosia；　to　the　point　where
the　main　route　branched　to　Famagousta。　This　was　a　great　waste　of　time；
but　there　was　no　other　way　of　avoiding　the　difficulty。　Accordingly　we
started；　and　after　a　few　miles　we　cut　across　country　to　the　high　road；
while　the　vans　slowly　crawled　along　the　uneven　way　until　they　reached
the　turning…point。　We　halted　at　a　very　desolate　spot；　where　sheep　were
housed　in　large　numbers。　Several　spacious　pens　were　surrounded　with
thorns；　reminding　me　of　the　cattle　zareebas　of　Africa；　and　a　small
flat…topped　building；　built　of　stone　and　mud；　formed　the　usual
accommodation　for　man　and　beast。　A　well　of　clear　but　brackish　water
supplied　this　rude　establishment；　which　was　surrounded　by　a　boundless
extent　of　undulating　ground；　more　or　less　cultivated　with　cereals；
which；　although　only　a　few　inches　above　the　surface；　looked　weak　and
perishing。

The　vans　did　not　arrive　until　late；　in　the　meanwhile　we　had　sat　outside
the　building　in　the　cold　air；　fearing　to　venture　beneath　the　roof；　owing
to　the　swarms　of　fleas　which　are　sure　to　be　〃at　home〃　in　all　the
miserable　dwellings　of　this　island。　At　length　the　gipsy…van；　which　had
been　in　sight　for　a　full　hour；　drew　up　on　the　flat　surface　in　front　of
the　shepherd's　hut；　and　real　comfort　was　at　once　at　hand。　Although　the
space　within　was　limited；　the　furniture　was　so　carefully　arranged　that
we　had　plenty　of　room　to　move　about。　The　fall…slab　table　was　usually
down；　and　was　only　required　for　writing；　the　chest　of　drawers　was
American　walnut：　a　good　solid　and　well…seasoned　wood；　which　did　not
provoke　the　temper　like　English　furniture　by　the　drawers　sticking　when
in　the　act　of　opening；　and　leaving　you　in　a　hopeless　position　with　a
detached　handle　in　either　hand。　This　good　American　chest　was　only　three
feet　two　inches　high；　therefore　it　formed　a　convenient　toilette…table
beneath　a　window；　which；　curtained　with　muslin　and　crimson　cloth；　had　an
exceedingly　snug　appearance；　and　a　cushioned　seat　upon　either　side　upon
the　lid　of　a　locker　combined　comfort　with　convenience。　We　had　a　tiny
little　movable　camp…table　that　could　be　adjusted　in　two　minutes；　and
would　dine　two　persons；　provided　that　no　carving　was　performed；　and　that
the　dishes　were　handed　round。　The　bed　was　athwart…ship　at　the　far　end
beneath　the　stern…window；　but　at　such　a　height　from　the　floor　that
several　broad　shelves　beneath　contained　gun…cases；　ammunition；　clothes；
boots；　tins　of　preserved　provisions；　and　in　fact　everything　that；
although　necessary；　was　to　be　kept　out　of　sight。　The　only　mistake　in　the
arrangements　was　a　very　large　and　gorgeous　open…brass…work　Egyptian
lantern；　with　glass　of　various　colours　and　outlandish　patterns　in
Arabesque。　In　the　evening　we　formed　an　irregular　light…house；　as　two
ordinary　carriage…lamps　were　fixed　above　and　on　either　side　the　entrance
door；　while　the　gorgeous　many…coloured　lantern　swung　from　the　roof
inside；　and　flashed　red；　green；　and　yellow　signals　in　wild　confusion。　I
knew　this　piece　of　finery　would　not　last　long；　as　it　would　insist　upon
running　against　everybody's　head；　its　large　size　bringing　it　into
constant　collision；　but　it　looked　well；　and　ornamented　the　van。　As　it
burnt　several　candles　the　lantern　became　hot；　which　somewhat　warmed　the
cabin；　and　was　a　welcome　increase　of　temperature；　for　although　the　floor
was　protected　by　oil…cloth；　upon　which　were　double　layers　of　Scinde
rugs；　the　extreme　thinness　of　the　walls　made　it　unpleasantly　cold　with
the　thermometer　outside　at　40　degrees。　The　servants　were　saved　an
immense　amount　of　trouble　by　the　presence　of　the　gipsy…van；　which　at　the
time　they　hardly　appreciated；　they　had　no　tent…pitching　upon　the　halt；
neither　unpacking　of　boxes；　nor　arranging　of　beds；　nor　any　of　the　usual
work　connected　with　a　daily　camp。　It　is　impossible　for　the　inexperienced
to　appreciate　the　comfort　of　such　a　vehicle　where　the　roads　are
practicable；　especially　in　bad　weather；　when　you　are　perfectly　certain
that　your　home　is　weather…proof　and　your　bed　dry。　Those　who　have
experienced　the　misery　of　a　halt　in　pouring　rain；　when　everybody　and
everything　has　been　sodden　to　the　bone；　when　the　ground　is　slush　that
will　not　hold　a　tent…peg；　the　night　dark；　the　fuel　will　not　burn；　the
matches　expend　themselves　in　vain　phosphoric　flashes；　but　will　not
ignite；　the　water　that　has　run　down　your　neck　has　formed　reservoirs
within　your　boots；　the　servants　are　reduced　to　the　inactivity　of
sponges；　andthe　tents　MUST　be　pitched。　The　heavy　soaked　canvas　that
can　hardly　flap　in　the　strong　wind　is　at　length　spread　over　the　cold
soft　ground；　the　camp…beds；　though　wet　as　tripe；　MUST　be　arranged；　and
down　go　the　iron　legs；　sinking　to　an　unknown　depth　into　the　sodden　soil！

Oh；　misery；　misery！　happily　unknown　to　those　who　stay　at　home。　All　this
may　be　avoided　in　a　country　where　practicable　routes　exist　by　travelling
with　a　gipsy…van。　Of　course　you　do　not　personally　travel　within　your
van：　it　simply　forms　a　movable　home　that　accompanies　you　upon　the　march；
and　is　always　there　when　required；　while　you　ride　independently　upon
your　animal。　We　live　and　learn：　and　I　have　from　experience　modified　my
ideas　of　a　gipsy…van；　for　a　roadless　country　such　as　Cyprus　practically
isI　should　have　NO　SPRINGS。　If　you　are　obliged　to　travel　bodily　within
your　vehicle；　there　can　be　no　doubt　that　springs　relieve　the　spine；　and
various　indescribable　portions　of　your　anatomy；　but　if　your　simple　〃but
upon　wheels〃　is　to　be　dragged　along；　over；　and　through　all　kinds　of
obstacles；　there　can　be　no　use　whatever　in　springs；　which　by　their
elasticity　allow　your　vehicle　to　sway　from　side　to　side；　and　to
seriously　threaten　the　centre　of　gravity；　when　in　a　dangerous　place；　by
oscillation。　The　cap…waggon　of　South　Africa　will　go　anywhere。　The
two…wheeled　cart　of　Cyprus　is　a　wonderfully　simple　affair　that　may　be
dragged　up　or　down　the　side　of　a　mountain　by　a　couple　of　oxen；　the　high
wheels　and　light　but　strong　body　surmounting　all　obstacles；　these　carts
do　not　carry　more　than　twelve　or　fourteen　hundredweight；　but　in　an
expedition　I　should　much　prefer　them　to　the　heavy　waggons　of　South
Africa；　which；　with　three　thousand　pounds；　require　ten　or　twelve　oxen。
The　heavier　weight　in　a　difficulty　of　soft　ground；　or　in　crossing　a
river；　would　be　serious；　but　if　the　vehicles　are　numerous；　and　the
weight　distributed　accordingly；　it　stands　to　sense　that　an　enormous
advantage　is　secured　by　the　presence　of　ten　oxen　in　five　light　carts；
all　of　which　can　be　applied　to　drag　a　single　cart　out　of　a　serious
dilemma；　instead　of　remaining　hopelessly　fixed　in　soft　mud；　anchored　by
a　weight　of　a　ton　and　a　half；　as　in　the　case　of　an　African
baggage…waggon。　High　and　broad　wheels　are　the　first　necessity；　with　a
compound　axle　of　wood　and　iron；　the　unequal　elasticity　of　which　relieves
the　shock。

I　invariably　found　that　during　the　day　I　hated　my　van；　and　in　the
evening　I　blessed　it。　It　certainly　delayed　us　on　the　march；　and　as　we
rode　some　miles　in　advance　we　noted　the　obstacles　that　would　cause　a
stoppage；　and　generally　halted　to　assist　when　the　〃tortoise〃　should
arrive。　All　this　was　of　course　annoying　in　a　country　where　a　horse　would
have　cantered　cheerily　along　and　have　accomplished　forty　miles　a　day；
but；　on　the　other　hand；　the　van　was　never　intended　for　grande　vitesse；
neither　is　express　travelling　the　proper　method　of　obtaining　an　accurate
knowledge　of　a　new　country。　Thus　we　crawled　along；　making　twelve　or
thirteen　miles　per　diem　through　a　most　uninteresting　country；　the　usual
scene　of　treeless　waste；　but　dotted　over　with　extensive　villages　of
mud…built　houses；　and　the　inevitable　white　arched…roof　Greek　churches。

The　only　incidents　that　occurred　in　this　land　of　apathy　were　occasioned
by　our　guide；　who　generally　lost　his　way；　and　spent　some　hours　in
finding　the　vans　at　the　halting…place　in　the　evening；　this　was　not
improving　to　the　temper；　and　of　course　I　laid　the　blame　upon　Cyprus
generally；　and　abused　the　island　almost　to　the　superlative　degree
adopted　by　the　〃newspaper　correspondents。〃

The　17th　February　was　a　day　of　considerable　bodily　exercise；　as　we
arrived　at　a　series　of　watercourses　as　deep　and　broad　as　military
trenches　for　sapping　up　to　a　fortress。　We　had　no　sooner　levelled　an
embankment；　and　with　great　difficulty　dragged　the　vans　across；　than　we
encountered　a　new　and　similar　obstruction。　At　length　we　arrived　within
half　a　mile　of　the　large　village　Arshia；　which；　being　well　irrigated；
opposed　a　perfect　network　of　barriers　in　the　shape　of　artificial
water…channels。　The　oxen　became　disheartened；　and　the　pair　which　drew
the　blue　van　driven　by　our　favourite　Georgi　determined　to　strike　work
just　as　he　was　applying　the　sharp　driving　prick　to　their　posteriors　in
ascending　a　steep　bank；　through　which　we　had　cut　a　passage　from　the　deep
water…course　beneath。　Instead　of　keeping　a　straight　course；　these
pig…headed　bullocks　made　a　sharp　turn　to　the　right　up　the　incline。　Down
went　one　upon　its　knees　in　rage　and　despair！　while　round　went　the　other
in　an　opposite　direction：　crash　went　the　pole　in　two　pieces！　and　the
blue　van；　having　vainly　endeavoured　to　right　itself　like　a　lady　about　to
faint　when　no　one　is　at　hand　to　save　her；　tottered　for　a　moment；　and
turned　over　with　a　crash　th