cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第20章

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perfect　state　to　the　present　moment。

It　was　a　wild　route　to　Gallibornu；　through　a　succession　of　small　valleys
separated　by　wooded　heights；　and　bounded　by　hills；　either　bare　in　white
cliffs；　or　with　steep　slopes　thickly　covered　with　evergreens。　We　passed
a　few　miserable　villages；　one　of　which　was　solely　inhabited　by　gipsies；
who　came　out　to　meet　us　clad　in　rags　and　extremely　filthy；　but　the　faces
of　the　women　were　good…looking。　We　crossed　numerous　watercourses　in　the
narrow　bottoms　between　the　hills；　their　steep　banks　were　fringed　with
bushes　which　formed　likely　spots　for　woodcocks；　but　my　dogs　found
nothing　upon　the　route　except　a　few　partridges　and　francolin；　although；
as　usual；　they　hunted　throughout　the　march。　After　crossing　a　series　of
steep　hills；　and　observing　a　marked　contrast　in　the　habits　of　the
people；　who　constructed　their　dwellings　upon　the　heights　instead　of　in
the　unhealthy　glens；　we　arrived　in　the　closely　pent…in　valley　that　forms
the　approach　to　Gallibornu。　This　village　is　of　considerable　extent；　and
is　inhabited　exclusively　by　Turks。　We　entered　the　valley　through　a
narrow　gap　between　the　hills；　which　on　our　left　formed　perpendicular
cliffs；　with　the　usual　steep　slopes　of　debris　near　the　base。　The　upper
cliffs；　about　400　feet　above　the　lower　level；　were　marked　with　numerous
parallel　ledges　and　were　full　of　blue…rock　pigeons；　which　built　their
nests　in　the　clefts　and　crevices；　the　summits　of　these　heights　were　the
table…tops　which　characterise　this　formation。

It　was　difficult　to　select　a　camping…place；　as　the　valley　would　become
mud　in　the　event　of　heavy　rains。　We　had　experienced　daily　showers　since
we　left　Volokalida；　and　the　lower　grounds　were　damp；　I　disliked　the
immediate　neighbourhood　of　a　village；　and　the　only　available　spot　was
rather　dangerous；　as　it　was　situated　upon　a　flattish　knoll；　so　near　the
base　of　the　cliff　that　enormous　blocks　of　stone　many　tons　in　weight　lay
in　all　directions；　which　had　fallen　from　the　impending　heights。　I
examined　these；　and　found　some　that　were　comparatively　recent；　I　had
also　observed　upon　our　entrance　to　the　valley　that　a　great　portion　of
the　cliff　face　had　lately　fallen；　forming　an　avalanche　of　rocks　that
would　have　destroyed　a　village：　this　my　guide　informed　me　was　the　result
of　last　year's　excessive　rain。　I　examined　the　heights　above　us　with　my
glass；　and　observed　some　crags　that　Polyphemus　would　have　delighted　to
hurl　upon　Acis　when　courting　his　Galatea；　but　as　no　Cyclops　existed　in
this　classical　island　I　determined　to　risk　the　chances　of　a
rock…displacement　and　to　pitch　the　tent　upon　a　flat　surface　among　the
fallen　blocks。　As　a　rule　such　localities　should　be　avoided。　It　is
impossible　to　calculate　the　probable　downfall　of　a　crag；　which；　having
formed　a　portion　of　the　cliff；　has　been　undermined　by　the　breaking　away
of　lower　rocks；　and；　overhanging　the　perpendicular；　may　be　secure　during
dry　weather；　but　may　become　dislodged　in　heavy　rain；　when　the
cement…like　surroundings　are　dissolved：　the　serious　vibration　caused　by
thunder　might　in　such　conditions　produce　an　avalanche。　We　dug　a　deep
trench　round　the　tents；　as　the　weather　looked　overcast　and　stormy。

The　village　of　Gallibornu　was　about　half　a　mile　beyond　our　camp　at　the
extreme　end　of　the　valley；　but　situated　on　the　heights。　The　people　were
extremely　civil；　and　it　would　be　difficult　to　determine　the　maximum
degree　of　courtesy　between　the　Turks　and　Greeks　of　Cyprus。　I　strolled
with　my　dogs　up　the　steep　hill…sides；　and　the　Turks；　seeing　that　I　was
fond　of　shooting；　promised　to　accompany　me　on　the　following　morning　to
some　happy　hunting…ground；　which；　from　my　Cyprian　experience；　I　believed
was　mythical。

On　waking　the　next　day　I　found　the　Turks；　true　to　their　promise；　already
assembled　by　the　servants'　tent；　and　eight　men　were　awaiting　me　with
their　guns。　They　had　a　sporting　dog　to　assist　them；　which　they　described
as　〃very　useful　for　following　a　wounded　hare；　only　it　was　necessary　to
be　quick　in　securing　it；　otherwise　the　dog　would　eat　it　before　your
arrival。〃

I　advised　them　to　leave　this　〃useful　dog〃　behind；　as　hostilities　might
be　declared　by　my　three　English　spaniels　in　the　event　of　his　swallowing
a　wounded　hare。　This　being　agreed　to；　we　all　started；　and；　crossing　the
valley；　entered　a　gorge　upon　the　other　side。　We　now　ascended　naked　hills
of　pure　crystallised　gypsum；　the　strata　were　vertical；　and　the　perfectly
transparent　laminae　were　packed　together　like　small　sheets　of　glass　only
a　few　inches　in　width。　It　was　easy　to　walk　up　the　steep　slopes　of　this
material　without　slipping；　as　the　exterior　edges；　having　been　exposed　to
the　weather；　had　become　rough；　and　were　exactly　like　coarse　glass　placed
edgeways。　We　spread　out　into　a　line　of　skirmishers　extending　up　the
hills　upon　both　sides　of　the　gorge；　and　quickly　arrived　in　very　likely
ground　covered　with　dwarf…cypress。　Here　the　dogs　immediately　flushed
partridges；　and　a　Turk　having　wounded　one；　a　considerable　delay　took
place　in　searching　for　it　at　the　bottom　of　a　deep　wooded　hollow；　but　to
no　purpose。　We　now　arrived　at　lovely　ground　within　a　mile　of　the　sea；
forming　a　long　succession　of　undulations；　covered；　more　or　less；　with
the　usual　evergreen　brushwood　as　far　as　the　eye　could　reach。　This　uneven
surface；　broken　by　many　watercourses；　was　about　eighty　feet　above　the
water…level；　and　descended　in　steep　rocky　ledges　to　within　a　few　hundred
yards　of　the　sea；　where　the　lower　ground　was　flat　and　alternated　in　open
glades　and　thick　masses　of　mastic　scrub；　the　beach　being　edged　by　drift
sand…dunes　covered　by　the　dense　jungle　of　various　matted　bushes。

There　was　a　fair　amount　of　game　in　this　locality；　and　had　the　Turks　shot
well　we　should　have　made　a　tolerable　bag；　but　they　did　not　keep　a　good
line；　and　many　birds　went　back　without　being　shot　at；　while　others　were
missed；　and　altogether　the　shooting　was　extremely　wild。　The　sun　was　hot
by　the　time　we　had　concluded　our　beat；　I　had　shot　five　brace　and　one
hare；　including　some　francolins；　and　the　rest　of　the　party　had
collectively　bagged　three　brace。　It　was　late　in　the　season　for　shooting；
but　the　birds　were　not　all　paired；　and　I　have　no　doubt　that　in　the　month
of　September　this　portion　of　the　island　would　afford　fair　sport；
although　no　great　bags　could　be　expected。　I　was　surprised　at　the　absence
of　woodcocks；　throughout　my　rambles　in　Cyprus　I　had　only　seen　one；
although　they　were　cheap　in　the　market　of　Larnaca。　The　fact　is　that
every　bird　shot　by　the　natives　is　sent　straight　for　sale；　therefore　an
immense　area　is　hunted　for　the　small　supply　required　by　the　Europeans　in
the　principal　towns。　Upon　our　return　homewards　we　passed　through　a
considerable　space　occupied　by　ancient　ruins。　Among　the　masses　of　stones
and　broken　pottery　were　two　stone　sarcophagi；　which　appeared　to　have
been　converted　into　drinking…troughs　for　cattle。　As　with　all　the　ruins
of　Cyprus；　nothing　of　interest　exists　upon　the　surface；　and　the　tombs
having　been　for　many　centuries　excavated　and　despoiled；　it　is　probable
that　the　sarcophagi　had　been　brought　to　light　by　treasure…seekers　many
years　ago。

As　we　approached　Gallibornu　by　a　mountain　path　the　Turks　assured　me　that
we　should　find　good　drinking…water；　we　were　all　thirsty；　including　the
dogs；　who　had　drunk　nothing　for　some　hours。　At　length；　at　a　considerable
elevation　between　two　hills；　we　reached　a　spring；　and　I　was　shown　a　well
where　the　water　was　only　a　few　feet　from　the　surface。　The　Turks　now
pointed　to　the　perpendicular　face　of　a　cliff　and　desired　me　to　follow
them；　at　the　same　time　I　could　not　understand　their　attempted
explanations　either　by　word　or　pantomime。　We　kept　on　an　extremely　narrow
path　which　skirted　the　steep　side　of　the　slope；　and　presently　arrived　at
a　ledge　about　sixteen　inches　wide　upon　the　perpendicular　face　of　the
cliff；　which　descended　sheer　for　a　considerable　depth　beneath。　I　was
requested　to　leave　my　gun　against　a　rock　and　to　follow。　It　was　all　very
well　for　these　people；　who　knew　exactly　where　they　were　going；　but　I　had
not　the　slightest　idea　of　my　destination；　unless　it　should　be　the　bottom
of　the　cliff；　which　appeared　to　me　most　probable；　if　I；　who　was　many
inches　broader　in　the　shoulders　than　my　guides；　should　be　expected　to
join　in　the　game　of　〃follow　the　leader〃　upon　a　narrow　ledge　against　the
face　of　the　rock　which　afforded　no　hold　whatever。　I　was　not　so　fond　of
climbing　as　I　had　been　thirty　years　ago；　and　to　my　infinite　disgust　the
ledge；　which　was　already　horribly　small；　became　narrower　as　we
proceeded。　There　was　a　nasty　projecting　corner　to　turn；　and　at　this
point　I　saw　my　guides　look　down　below；　and　I　fancied　they　were
speculating　upon　the　depth。　Instead　of　this；　the　leader　began　to　descend
the　perpendicular　face　by　small　ladder…like　steps　hewn　in　the　rock；　and
in　this　manner　gained　another　ledge　not　quite　six　feet　below。　We　all
reached　this　precarious　shelf；　and　the　guide；　having　turned；　continued
for　some　twenty　or　thirty　yards　in　an　exactly　contrary　direction　to　the
ledge　above　us；　by　which　we　had　just　arrived；　we　were　thus　retracing　our
steps　upon　a　similar　ledge　at　a　lower　level。　Suddenly　the　leader
stopped；　and　stooping　low；　crept　into　a　square　aperture　that　had　been
carefully　cut　out　of　the　rock　face　to　form　an　entrance。　This　passage
inclined　slightly　inwards；　and　after　a　few　paces　forward；　with　the　body
curved　in　the　uncomfortable　form　of　a　capital　C；　we　arrived　in　a
spacious　gallery　cut　into　a　succession　of　arches；　the　centre　of　which
was　six　feet　high。　A　small　window；　about　three　feet　by　two；　was　cut
through　the　rock　to　admit　light　and　air；　from　which　I　could　with　a　rifle
have　completely　commanded　the　glen　below　and　the　approach　to　the　left。
There　was　no　ledge　beneath　the　window；　but　simply　the　sheer　precipice　of
the　smooth　cliff；　and　there　was　no　other　approach　to　this　extraordinary
place　of　refuge　except　that　by　which　we　had　arrived。　The　gallery　was
neatly　cut；　and　extended　for　an　unknown　distance：　several　other
galleries；　arched　in　the　same　manner　and　of　the　same　size；　branched　off
at　right　angles　with　that　we　had　entered。　I　was　led　to　a　well；　which　was
represented　as　being　deep；　and　I　was　informed　that　the　hill　was
perforated　with　similar　galleries；　all　of　which　communicated　with　each
other。　I　much　regretted　that　we　were　unprovided　with　candles；　one　of　the
Turks　lighted　a　match；　but　it　only　served　to　increase　the　uncertainty　of
the　surrounding　darkness。

This　must　be　a　similar　cave…refuge　to　that　we　had　passed　about　four
miles　distant　when　on　our　way　from　Lithrankomi　to　Gallibornu；　and　it
deserves　a　minute　investigation。　As　I　could　see　nothing　beyond　about
thirty　feet　from　the　window；　owing　to　the　darkness；　I　cannot　give　any
account　of　the　actual　dimensions；　which　may　be　much　inferior　to　the
unlimited　descriptions　of　my　informants。　Upon　my　return　to　camp　I　had
the　benefit　of　my　interpreter；　and　the　story　was　repeated　that　no　one
knew　the　extent　of　the　excavations；　either　of　these　galleries　or　those
we　had　passed　during　our　journey。　I　have　never　seen　a　very　large　natural
cave　in　Cyprus；　although　the　caverns　beneath　the　superficial　stratum　of
sedimentary　rock　are　so　general。　The　presence　of　these　hollows；　and　the