cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第22章

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advanced　for　shooting；　and　I　therefore　confined　myself　to　killing　only
what　was　absolutely　necessary　for　our　food；　and　I　invariably　selected
the　cock…birds　of　francolins。　I　do　not　think　these　birds　pair　like　the
partridge；　but　I　believe　the　cock　is　polygamous；　like　the　pheasant；　as　I
generally　found　that　several　hens　were　in　his　neighbourhood。　It　is　a
beautiful　game　bird；　the　male　possessing　a　striking　plumage　of　deep
black　and　rich　brown；　with　a　dark　ring　round　the　neck。　It　is　quite　a
different　variety　to　the　mottle…breasted　species　that　I　have　met　with　in
Mauritius；　Ceylon；　and　the　double…spur　francolin　that　I　have　shot　in
Africa。　It　is　considerably　larger　than　the　common　partridge；　but　not
quite　so　heavy　as　the　red…legged　birds　of　Cyprus；　although　when　flying
it　appears　superior。　The　flesh　is　white　and　exceedingly　delicate；　and　it
is　to　be　regretted　that　so　valuable　a　game　bird　is　not　introduced　into
England。　I　generally　found　the　francolin　in　the　low　scrub；　although　I
have　often　shot　it　either　in　the　cultivated　fields　or　in　the　wild
prickly　low　plants　upon　the　open　ground　which　have　been　misnamed
heather。　The　habits　of　this　bird　have　nothing　in　common　with　those　of
the　red…legged　partridge；　as　it　is　never　found　upon　the　bare　rocky
hill…sides；　which　are　the　general　resort　of　the　latter　annoying　species；
and　although　the　scrub　bush　may　contain　both；　there　is　a　marked
difference　in　their　character。　The　red…leg　is　a　determined　runner；　and
therefore　a　bad　game　bird　for　the　shooter；　as　it　will　run　ahead　when
first　disturbed　and　rise　far　beyond　shot　range；　instead　of　squatting
like　the　grey　partridge　and　permitting　a　sporting　shot。　The　francolin　is
never　found　upon　the　bare　hill…sides；　neither　is　it　a　runner　in　the
open；　although　it　will　occasionally　trouble　the　dogs　in　the　bush　by
refusing　to　rise　until　they　have　followed　it　for　some　distance；
precisely　as　pheasants　will　run　in　covert　until　halted　by　the　〃stops〃　or
by　a　net。　I　am　not　sure　of　the　power　of　resistance　to　cold　possessed　by
the　francolins；　as　they　are　seldom　met　with　upon　the　higher　mountains　in
Cyprus；　but　are　generally　found　upon　the　inferior　altitudes　and　low
grounds：　still　the　hazel…huhn　of　Austria　is　a　species　of　francolin　which
resists　the　intense　cold　of　a　central…European　winter。

Only　one　march　remained　to　the　extreme　eastern　limit　of　Cyprus；　Cape　St。
Andrea；　distant　fourteen　miles。　The　country　was　exactly　similar　to　that
which　we　had　recently　passed　through；　and　although　alike；　it　could
hardly　be　called　monotonous；　as　the　eye　was　never　fatigued。　The　few
inhabitants　were　poor　to　the　last　degree；　the　dwellings　were　mere
hovels。　We　passed　deep　holes　in　the　ground；　the　sides　of　which　were
baked　by　fire；　so　as　to　resemble　earthen　jars　about　ten　feet　deep　and
seven　in　diameter；　with　a　small　aperture；　these　were　subterranean
granaries；　the　sure　sign　of　insecurity　before　the　British　occupation。
The　flat…topped　hovels　had　the　usual　roofs　of　clay　and　chopped　straw；
and　projected　two　or　three　feet　as　eaves　beyond　the　walls；　which　were　of
stone　and　mud；　exhibiting　the　crudest　examples　of　masonry。　The
projecting　eaves　were　curiously　arranged　by　hooks　of　cypress；　like
single…fluked　anchors　laid　horizontally；　which　retained　beams；　upon
which　the　mud　and　straw　were　laid；　the　heavy　weight　of　the　earthen　roof
upon　the　long　shanks　of　these　anchors　prevented　the　eaves　from
overbalancing。　Enormous　heaps　of　manure　and　filth　were　deposited
opposite　the　entrance　of　each　dwelling；　and　in　the　Christian　villages
the　most　absurd　pigs　ran　in　and　out　of　the　hovels；　or　slept　by　the　front
door；　as　though　they　were　the　actual　proprietors。　These　creatures　were
all　heads　and　legs；　and　closely　resembled　the　black　and　white
representative　of　the　race　well　known　to　every　child　in　the　Noah's　Ark。

It　was　rather　disheartening　to　approach　the　extremity　of　the　island；　and
upon　entering　a　long　narrow　valley　our　guide　assured　us　that　although　no
apparent　exit　existed；　we　should　ascend　a　precipitous　path　and
immediately　see　the　point　of　Cape　St。　Andrea。　The　valley　narrowed　to　a
point　without　any　visible　path。　A　few　low　hills　covered　with　bush　were
backed　by　cliff…like　heights　of　about　300　feet　also　clothed　by
evergreens。　Upon　our　right；　just　below　the　steep　ascent；　were　sand…dunes
and　the　sea。　We　now　observed　the　narrow　streak　of　white　upon　the
hillside；　amidst　the　green　which　marked　the　path。　We　had　left　the　brown
sandstone；　and　once　again　were　upon　the　white　calcareous　rock。　Our
animals　could　barely　ascend　the　steep　incline；　and　several　times　we
halted　them　to　rest；　at　length　we　reached　the　summit；　the　flat　rocky
table　above　the　valley。　The　view　was　indeed　lovely；　we　looked　down　upon
the　white　monastery　of　Cape　St。　Andrea；　two　miles　distant；　and　upon　the
thin　eastern　point　of　Cyprus　about　the　same　distance　beyond；　stretching
like　a　finger　from　a　hand　into　the　blue　sea：　the　elevation　from　the　high
point　upon　which　we　stood　gradually　inclining　downwards　to　the　end　of
all　things。　A　short　distance　from　the　cape　were　two　or　three　small　rocky
islands　and　reefs　protruding　from　the　sea；　as　though　the　force　of　the
original　upheaval　had　originated　from　the　west；　and　had　expended　itself
at　the　extreme　east；　where　the　heights　above　the　sea…level　had　gradually
diminished　until　the　continuation　became　disjointed；　and　the　island
terminated　in　a　sharp　point；　broken　into　dislocated　vertebrae　which
formed　islets　and　reefs；　the　last　hardly　appearing　above　the　waves。　This
ended　Cyprus　on　the　east。　The　lofty　coast　of　Asia　Minor　was　distinctly
visible。



CHAPTER　VI。

CAPE　ST。　ANDREA。

The　promontory　of　Cape　St。　Andrea　at　the　broadest　portion　is　about　five
miles；　and　from　this　base　to　the　extreme　end　is　nearly　the　same
distance。　The　whole　surface　is　rocky；　but　the　interstices　contain　a　rich
soil；　and　at　one　time　it　was　covered　with　valuable　timber。　There　is　no
portion　of　the　island　that　presents　a　more　deplorable　picture　of
wholesale　destruction　of　forests；　as　every　tree　has　been　ruthlessly　cut
down；　and　the　present　surface　is　a　dense　mass　of　shrubs　and　young
cypress；　which　if　spared　for　fifteen　years　will　again　restore　this
extremity　of　Cyprus　to　prosperity。　I　examined　the　entire　promontory；　and
ascended　the　rocky　heights；　about　500　feet　above　the　sea　upon　the　north
side。　It　was　with　extreme　difficulty　that　I　could　break　my　way　through
the　dense　underwood；　which　was　about　seven　or　eight　feet　high；　as　it　was
in　many　places　more　than　knee…deep　in　refuse　boughs；　which　had　been
lopped　and　abandoned　when　the　larger　trees　had　been　felled。　The　largest
stumps　of　these　departed　stems　were　not　more　than　from　nine　to　twelve
inches　in　diameter：　these　were　the　dwarf…cypress；　which　would　seldom
attain　a　greater　height　than　twenty　feet　at　maturity。

Fine　caroubs　had　shared　the　fate　of　all　others；　and　many　of　the　old
stumps　proved　the　large　size　of　this　valuable　tree；　which；　as　both
fruit…producing　and　shade…giving；　should　be　sacred　in　the　usually
parched　island　of　Cyprus。　At　an　elevation　of　about　350　feet　above　the
sea　a　spring　of　water　issues　from　the　ground　and　nourishes　a　small
valley　of　red　soil；　which　slopes　downwards　towards　the　monastery；　two
miles　distant。　The　shrubs　were　vividly　green；　and　formed　so　dense　a
crest　that　several　partridges　which　I　shot　remained　sticking　in　the
bushes　as　they　fell。　I　never　saw　such　myrtles　as　those　which　occupied
the　ravines；　through　which　it　was　quite　impossible　to　force　a　way。　The
principal　young　trees　were　Pinus　maritima；　dwarf…cypress；　mastic；
caroub；　arbutus；　myrtle；　and　wild　olive。　The　name　Cupressus　horizontalis
has　been　given　to　the　dwarf…cypress；　but　in　my　opinion　it　is　not
descriptive　of　the　tree：　a　cypress　of　this　species；　if　uninjured；　will
grow　perfectly　straight　in　the　central　stem　for　a　height　of　twenty　feet
without　spreading　horizontally。　It　is　probable　that　the　misnomer　has
been　bestowed　in　ignorance　of　the　fact　that　an　uninjured　tree　is　seldom
met　with；　and　that　nearly　every　cypress　has　been　mutilated　for　the　sake
of　the　strong　tough　leader；　which；　with　one　branch　attached；　will　form
the　one…fluked　anchor　required　for　the　roofs　of　native　dwellings　already
described。　In　the　absence　of　its　leader　the　tree　extends　laterally；　and
becomes　a　Cupressus　horizontalis。　The　wood　of　this　species　is　extremely
dense　and　hard；　and　when　cut　it　emits　a　resinous　and　aromatic　scent；　it
is　of　an　oily　nature；　and　extremely　inflammable。　The　grain　is　so　close
that；　when　dry；　it　somewhat　resembles　lignum　vitae　（though　of　lighter
colour）；　and　would　form　a　valuable　material　for　the　turner。　There　are
two　varieties　of　cypress　in　this　island；　the　second　has　been　erroneously
called　a　〃cedar〃　by　some　travellers；　and　by　others　〃juniper。〃　This　tree
is　generally　met　with；　at　altitudes　varying　from　three　to　six　thousand
feet；　upon　the　Troodos　range；　it　seldom　exceeds　a　height　of　thirty　feet；
but　attains　a　girth　of　six　or　even　seven。　The　wood　is　by　no　means　hard；
and　possesses　a　powerful　fragrance；　closely　resembling　that　of　cedar　（or
of　cedar　and　sandal…wood　combined）；　which　may　have　given　rise　to　the
error　named。　It　splits　with　facility；　and　the　peculiar　grain　and
brownish…red　colour；　combined　with　the　aroma；　would　render　it　valuable
for　the　cabinet…maker　in　constructing　the　insides　of　drawers；　as　insects
are　believed　to　dislike　the　smell。　The　foliage　of　this　species　exactly
resembles　that　of　the　Cupressus　horizontalis。　The　cedar　may　possibly
have　existed　at　a　former　period　and　have　been　destroyed；　but　I　should　be
inclined　to　doubt　the　theory；　as　it　would　surely　have　been　succeeded　by
a　younger　growth　from　the　cones；　that　must　have　rooted　in　the　ground
like　all　those　conifers　which　still　would　flourish　were　they　spared　by
the　Cypriote's　axe。　The　native　name　for　the　cypress　is　Kypreses；　which
closely　resembles　the　name　of　the　island　according　to　their
pronunciation　Kypris。　The　chittim…wood　of　Scripture；　which　was　so　much
esteemed；　may　have　been　the　highly　aromatic　cypress　to　which　I　have
alluded。

After　a　ramble　of　many　hours　down　to　the　monastery　upon　the　rocky　shore；
along　the　point；　and　then　returning　through　the　woods　over　the　highest
portions　of　the　promontory；　I　reached　our　camp；　which　commanded　a　view
of　the　entire　southern　coast　with　its　innumerable　rocky　coves　far　beyond
telescopic　distance。　From　this　elevation　I　could　distinguish　with　my
glass　the　wreck　of　the　stranded　steamer　in　the　bay　at　Volokalida。　We
were　camped　on　the　verge　of　the　height　that　we　had　ascended　by　the
precipitous　path　from　the　lower　valley。　As　the　country　was　a　mass　of　dry
fire…wood　we　collected　a　large　quantity；　and　piled　two　heaps；　one　for
the　camel…owners　and　the　servants；　and　another　before　the　door　of　our
own　tent　to　make　a　cheerful　blaze　at　night；　which　is　a　luxury　of　the
bivouac　seldom　to　be　enjoyed　in　other　portions　of　this　island。　While　we
were　thus　engaged　an　arrival　took　place；　and　several　people　suddenly
appeared　upon　the　summit　of　the　pass　within　a　few　yards　of　our　tent。　An
old　woman　formed　one　of　the　party；　and　a　handsome　but　rather
dirty…looking　priest　led　the　way　on　a　remarkably　powerful　mule。　Upon
seeing　us　he　very　courteously　dismounted；　and　I　at　once　invited　him　to