cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第25章

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submerged　a　large　area　of　the　ruins　which　face　the　sea；　but　General　di
Cesnola　was　able　to　trace　the　ancient　wall　for　a　distance　of　6850　feet。
It　is　quite　possible　that　the　earthquake　may　have　altered　the　conditions
of　the　harbour；　which　in　former　days　was　of　considerable　importance。　It
has　now　entirely　changed；　and　the　bay　near　the　shore　is　extremely
shallow；　although　good　anchorage　exists　in　the　roadstead　in　ten　to
sixteen　fathoms。

The　high　masonry　piers　which　had　supported　the　arches　of　the　ancient
aqueduct　from　Kythrea　looked　like　spectres　of　past　greatness　among　the
silent　ruins；　made　doubly　desolate　by　the　miserable　aspect　of　the
withered　plain　around　them。　A　short　distance　from　these　is　the　church　of
St。　Barnabas；　raised　upon　the　site　where　it　is　believed　that　the　body　of
the　Saint　was　discovered；　together　with　the　Gospel　of　St。　Matthew。　How
the　Saint　and　the　Gospel　had　been　preserved　in　the　damp　soil　of　that
neighbourhood　must　be　left　to　the　imagination。

Passing　through　the　ruins　of　the　old　town　with　the　line　of　the　wall
distinctly　visible　upon　the　sea　front；　we　shortly　arrived　at　the　spot
where　the　river　Pedias　should　have　an　exit　to　the　sea。　No　sign　of　a
river…bed　existed；　but　a　long　series　of　swamps；　composed　chiefly　of
bare　mud；　would　during　wet　weather　have　made　a　considerable　detour
necessary；　they　were　now　dry；　with　the　exception　of　two　or　three　holes
full　of　muddy　water；　which　were　unconnected　with　any　perceptible
channel。　A　long　stone　causeway　proved　that　occasionally　the　hardened　mud
upon　which　we　rode　would　become　a　lake；　but　from　the　numerous　tracks　of
animals　the　earth　was　preferred　to　the　uneven　and　slippery　pavement　of
the　artificial　road。　The　enormous　quantity　of　mud　brought　down　by　the
Pedias　during　its　fitful　inundations　had　completely　obliterated　all
signs　of　an　ordinary　river…bed；　and　the　deposit　had　produced　a　surface
that　was　scored　in　numerous　places　by　the　rush　of　water；　without　in　any
way　suggesting　that　we　were　in　the　neighbourhood　of　the　largest　river　in
Cyprus。　The　width　of　this　muddy　swamp　was　about　two　miles；　and
terminated　by　a　shallow　lake　upon　our　left。　We　were　now　within　a　mile
and　a　quarter　of　Famagousta；　and　the　ground　began　to　rise。　It　struck　me
that　an　eminence　upon　our　right　was　superior　to　the　height　of　the　city
walls；　and　I　rode　up　to　examine　the　position。　There　was　no　doubt　that　it
commanded　the　lower　portion　of　the　fortress；　and　that　a　direct　shell…
fire　could　be　plunged　into　the　rear　of　the　guns　which　protect　the
entrance　of　the　harbour。　In　the　event　of　modifications　being　introduced
when　restoring　the　defensive　works　of　Famagousta；　it　would　be　necessary
to　erect　a　powerful　detached　fort　upon　this　position；　which　would　be　an
immense　addition　to　the　defences　of　the　city；　as　it　would　enfilade　the
approaches　upon　two　sides。

The　walls　of　Famagousta　are　most　imposing；　they　are　constructed　of
carefully…squared　stone　joined　with　cement　of　such　extreme　hardness　that
the　weather　has　had　no　destructive　effect。　The　perimeter　of　the　fortress
is　about　4000　yards；　the　shape　is　nearly　a　parallelogram。　The　fosse
varies　in　depth　and　width；　but　the　minimum　of　the　former　is　twenty…five
feet；　and　of　the　width　eighty　feet；　but　in　some　places　it　exceeds　one
hundred　and　forty。　This　formidable　ditch　is　cut　out　of　the　solid　rock；
which　is　the　usual　calcareous　sedimentary　limestone；　and　the　stone　thus
obtained　has　been　used　in　the　construction　of　the　walls。　The　rock
foundation　would　render　all　mining　operations　extremely　difficult。　The
fire　from　the　ramparts　is　increased　by　cavaliers　of　great　size　and
strength；　capable　of　mounting　numerous　heavy　guns　at　a　superior
altitude。　The　only　entrance　from　the　land　side　is　at　the　south…west
corner；　this　is　exceedingly　striking；　as　the　fosse　is　about　140　feet
wide；　the　scarp　and　counter…scarp　almost　perpendicular；　being　cut　from
the　original　rock。

A　narrow　stone　bridge　upon　arches　spans　this　peculiar　ditch；　the
communication　depending　upon　a　double　drawbridge　and　portcullis。
Immediately　facing　the　entrance　outside　the　fortress　is　an　old　Turkish
churchyard；　through　and　above　which　the　closed　masonry　aqueduct　is
conducted　into　the　town。　Following　the　course　of　the　aqueduct　along　a
straight　line　of　sandy　heights　which　somewhat　resemble　a　massive　railway
embankment；　we　arrived　at　a　mosque　in　which　is　the　venerated　tomb　of　the
Turkish　soldier　who　first　planted　the　flag　upon　the　walls　of　Famagousta
when　captured；　in　1571；　from　the　Venetians。　This　tomb　is　in　a　small
chamber　within　the　building　and　is　covered　with　green　silk；　embroidered；
but　as　the　city　was　never　taken　by　assault；　and　capitulated　upon
honourable　terms　after　a　protracted　defence；　the　fact　of　establishing
the　Turkish　flag　upon　the　walls　after　their　evacuation　by　the　garrison
would　hardly　have　entitled　the　standard…bearer　to　a　Victoria　Cross；
however　he　may　have　otherwise　distinguished　himself；　which　entailed
post…mortem　honours；　perhaps　by　skinning　alive　the　gallant　Venetian
commandant　Bragadino；　whose　skin；　stuffed　with　straw；　was　taken　in
triumph　to　Constantinople　hanging　at　the　yard…arm　of　the　victorious
general's　ship。

Quitting　the　mosque；　we　continued　along　the　aqueduct；　always　upon　the
same　sandy　heights；　which　gradually　increased；　until　we　arrived　at　a
position　about　200　yards　from　a　windmill。　This　formed　a　prominent　object
at　the　back　of　the　large　village　of　Varoschia；　situated　upon　the　slope
beneath　facing　the　sea；　about　a　quarter　of　a　mile　distant。　I　selected
the　highest　position　for　a　camp；　this　was　close　to　the　aqueduct　and
about　600　yards　from　the　entrance　of　the　fortress。　I　counted　the
embrasures　of　six　guns　that　could　have　been　brought　to　bear　exactly　upon
our　tent；　but　at　the　same　time　I　remarked　that　we　commanded　the　lower
portion　of　the　fortress；　and　could　fire　into　the　rear　of　the　batteries
upon　the　sea…wall　within　the　water…gate　at　a　most　destructive　range。
This　position　would　require　a　detached　fort　with　a　line　of　works　along
the　heights　flanked　by　a　small　fort　at　the　extremity。　Three　detached
forts　upon　as　many　points　which　now　exist　would　render　Famagousta
impregnable；　should　the　present　works　be　repaired；　and　improved　by　some
slight　modifications。

I　had　been　through　the　fortifications　upon　a　former　occasion；　when　I　had
the　advantage　of　Captain　Inglis　the　chief　commissioner's　guidance；　but
they　are　so　extensive　and　of　such　exceeding　interest　that　many　days
might　be　expended　in　a　study　of　the　details。

Upon　entering　the　fortress　by　the　drawbridge　we　passed　through　the
arched　and　dark　way　beneath　the　ramparts；　and　emerged　into　a　narrow
street；　which　was　swept　and　free　from　the　usual　impurities　of　a　Turkish
town；　thus　exhibiting　proofs　of　a　British　occupation。　A　perfect
labyrinth　of　narrow　lanes；　bordered　by　most　inferior　dwellings；　confused
a　stranger；　but　with　the　assistance　of　a　guide　I　reached　the　residence
of　the　chief　commissioner　and　the　various　officers　attached　to　the
establishment。　Beyond　this　all　modern　buildings　ceased；　and　Famagousta
was　presented　as　it　must　have　appeared　after　the　sack　and　utter
destruction　by　the　Turks　in　1571。　It　looked　as　though　a　town　had　been
shattered　and　utterly　destroyed　by　an　earth…quake；　whose　terrible
tremblings　had　shaken　every　house　to　its　foundation；　and　left　nothing
but　shapeless　heaps　of　squared　stones。　O　Turk！　insatiable　in
destruction；　who　breaks　down；　but　never　restores；　what　a　picture　of
desolation　was　here！　Three　centuries　had　passed　away　since　by　treachery
the　place　was　won；　and　from　that　hour　the　neglected　harbour　had　silted
up　and　ceased　to　be；　the　stones　of　palaces　rested　where　they　fell；　the
filth　of　ages　sweltered　among　these　blood…sodden　ruins；　and　the　proverb
seemed　fulfilled；　〃The　grass　never　grows　on　the　foot…print　of　the　Turk。〃
I　never　saw　so　fearful　an　example　of　ruin。

Although　the　town　was　in　this　hideous　state；　the　fortifications　were　in
very　tolerable　repair；　and　had　guns　been　mounted　an　enemy　would　quickly
have　acknowledged　their　formidable　importance。　Time　appeared　to　be
almost　harmless　in　attacks　against　these　vast　piles　of　solid　masonry。
The　parapets　in　the　angles　of　the　embrasures　were　twenty…five　and
twenty…seven　feet　in　thickness。　From　these　we　looked　down　forty…five　and
fifty　feet　into　the　ditch　beneath。　As　we　walked　round　the　ramparts　and
various　bastions　we　remarked　the　enormous　strength　of　the　commanding
cavaliers　to　which　I　alluded　from　the　outside　appearance　of　the　forts。
There　were　also　vast　subterranean　works；　store…houses；　magazines；
cannon…foundries；　and　all　the　appliances　of　a　first…class　fortified　town
and　arsenal；　but　these　were　of　course　empty；　and　with　the　exception　of　a
small　chamber　near　the　water…gate；　which　contained　a　number　of　rusty
helmets　and　breastplates；　there　was　no　object　of　interest　beyond　the
actual　plan　of　the　defences。

The　water…gate　was　approached　by　a　winding　entrance　beneath　a　powerful
circular　bastion　from　an　extremely　narrow　quay；　from　which　the　remains
of　a　once　powerful　mote　projected　about　120　yards　into　the　sea　and
commanded　the　inner　harbour。　This　was　now　a　mere　line　of　loose　and
disjointed　stones。　A　citadel　that　is　separated　from　the　main　fortress　by
a　wet　ditch　which　communicates　with　the　sea　by　an　adit　beneath　the　wall
commands　the　harbour　on　the　east　side。　This　ditch　is　as　usual　scarped
from　the　rock；　and　otherwise　of　solid　masonry；　should　the　fortress　have
been　successfully　carried　by　assault　on　the　land　side；　a　vigorous
defence　might　have　been　maintained　in　this　independent　citadel　until
either　reinforcements　should　arrive　by　sea；　or　an　escape　might　be
effected　to　friendly　vessels。

It　is　commonly　asserted　that　Famagousta　under　the　Lusignans　and
Venetians　〃counted　its　churches　by　hundreds　and　its　palatial　mansions　by
thousands。〃　It　would　certainly　have　been　impossible　that　they　could　have
existed　within　the　present　area；　as　a　large　extent　must　have　been
required　for　barrack　accommodation　for　the　garrison；　parade…grounds；　&c。
There　are　ruins　of　several　fine　churches　with　the　frescoes　still　visible
upon　the　walls。　The　Cathedral　of　St。　Nicholas　is　a　beautiful　object　in
the　Gothic　style。　Although　dismantled　and　converted　into　a　mosque　by　the
Turks；　the　roof　is　in　good　repair；　and　its　magnificent　proportions
remain；　but　they　are　marred　by　the　stopping　of　the　windows　with　rough
stones　and　mortar。　The　total　length　of　the　cathedral　is　172　feet　6。5
inches。　Length　of　apse　（included　in　above）　30　feet　9　inches；　breadth　of
apse　32　feet　3　inches；　breadth　of　cathedral　74　feet　1　inch；
circumference　of　pillars　15　feet　3　inches；　there　being　12　pillars　in
all。

On　the　outside　walls　are　the　marks　of　various　cannon…shot　which　appear
to　have　been　successfully　resisted　by　the　soft　but　tough　sedimentary
limestone；　which　is　of　similar　quality　to　that　used　in　the　construction
of　the　fortress。　I　observed　that　the　impact　of　the　shot　has　been
confined　to　the　immediate　neighbourhood　of　the　blow；　and　that　the
concussion　has　not　been　communicated　to　the　adjoining　stone；　but　has
expended　itself　in　crumbling　the　opposing　surface　to　the　depth　in　which
it　was　eventually　imbedded。　It　would　be　interesting　to　try　some
experiments　upon　those