cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第26章

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it　was　eventually　imbedded。　It　would　be　interesting　to　try　some
experiments　upon　those　walls　of　Famagousta　（which　may　already　require
repair　or　alteration）　with　modern　heavy　artillery；　as　should　this　stone
exhibit　unusual　powers　of　resistance　it　may　become　valuable。　Nothing
would　be　easier　than　to　fire　a　few　rounds　from　a　ship's　battery　to　prove
the　question。

The　courtyard　of　an　ancient　Venetian　palace　now　forms　the　British
parade…ground。　This　faces　the　cathedral　entrance；　and　is　ornamented　by
piles　of　marble　cannon…shot；　which　are　upwards　of　ten　inches　in
diameter；　these　were　the　Venetian　relics　of　the　siege　of　1571。

From　Cape　Greco　to　Cape　Elaea；　south　to　north；　is　about　twenty…five
miles；　these　points　form　the　bay；　nine　miles　in　extreme　width。　Although
open　to　the　east　and　south…east；　Famagousta　is　the　only　real　harbour　in
Cyprus　that　can　be　available　for　large　vessels；　and　there　can　be　no
doubt　that　a　very　moderate　outlay　would　not　only　restore　its　ancient
importance；　but　would　make　those　additions　of　modern　times　that　are
required　for　a　first…rate　and　impregnable　coaling…station　and　arsenal。

It　was　blowing　a　fresh　gale　from　the　south…east　when　I　was　standing　on
the　ramparts　facing　the　sea　above　the　water…gate；　and　an　admirable
example　was　displayed　in　the　wave…breaking　power　of　the　long　line　of
sunken　reefs　which　form　a　continuation　of　those　natural　breakwaters
above　the　surface　that　have　formed　the　harbour。　A　tremendous　surf
exhibited　a　creamy　streak　along　the　margin　of　comparatively　still　water
within　the　reefs　for　about　a　mile　parallel　with　the　shore；　comprising　an
area　of　about　700　yards'　width　at　the　extremity　of　the　sunken　rocks；　and
500　from　the　existing　breakwater　exactly　opposite　the　water…gate。
Within　this　secure　haven　several　native　vessels　were　snugly　at　anchor；
but　ships　of　war　would　hardly　venture　among　the　varying　shallows　caused
by　centuries　of　silt；　such　large　vessels　generally　anchor　in　seventeen
fathoms　about　a　mile　from　the　shore；　but　they　are　completely　exposed　to
wind　from　east　and　south…east。　The　inner　harbour　is　formed　by　the
artificial　connection　of　raised　heads　of　projecting　reefs　by　stone
jetties。　At　right　angles　with　this　complete　defence　of　limestone　rock　is
a　wall　or　jetty　from　the　shore；　which　for　a　distance　of　170　yards
incloses　the　basin　of　perfectly　still　water　within。　The　entrance　to　this
snug　little　port　is　about　forty　yards　in　width；　and　the　depth　is　most
irregular；　varying　from　dry　silt　close　to　the　south　end　of　the　reefs　up
to　twelve　feet　beneath　the　walls　of　the　fortress。　There　were　many　small
coasting…vessels　and　caiques　which　trade　between　the　various　ports　of
Syria　and　Asia　Minor；　all　having　sought　shelter　from　the　bad　weather
within　the　port；　and　the　picture　presented　during　the　strong　gale　was
thoroughly　illustrative　of　the　natural　advantages　and　the　future
requirements　of　the　harbour。　The　long　line　of　reefs　which　form　the　outer
protection　would；　were　they　exposed　in　their　whole　length；　represent　an
irregular　incline　from　about　twelve　feet　above　the　sea　level　at　the
southern　end　to　three　fathoms　below　water　at　the　northern　extremity。　A
wedge　laid　with　its　broad　base　to　the　south　would　represent　the
inclination　of　this　long　line　of　useful　reef；　which　can　be　converted
into　a　sea…wall　by　simply　filling…in　with　blocks　of　concrete　to　a
sufficient　height　above　the　extreme　water…mark。　The　ancient　jetty　which
connects　the　small　islands　that　form　the　northern　head　of　the　reef　is　in
itself　an　example　of　the　necessity　of　such　an　extension　throughout　the
line。　A　natural　headland　terminating　in　disconnected　rocks　upon　the
north　boundary　of　the　reef　about　half　a　mile　above　the　fortress　is　a
secure　protection　from　the　sea；　but　it　admits　the　silt。　This　has
completely　filled　in　a　considerable　portion　of　the　original　harbour；　and
were　this　sea…communication　destroyed　by　connecting　the　various　reefs
with　the　main　headland；　the　evil　would　be　at　once　prevented；　and　the
inclosed　area　might　be　cleansed　by　dredging。　This　would　not　only　add　to
the　accommodation　of　the　inner　harbour　by　a　considerable　extension；　but
it　would　afford　an　admirable　position　for　a　series　of　docks；　and　yards
for　the　repairing　of　vessels。　I　walked　through　the　whole　of　this
confined　mass　of　rocks；　silt；　and　water　only　a　few　inches　deep；　and　was
much　impressed　with　the　capabilities　of　the　locality。　Such　powerful
dredgers　as　are　used　in　the　Suez　Canal　would　clear　away　the　deposit；
with　an　outlay　that　could　be　calculated　by　the　cubic　contents；　and　the
large　margin　that　must　generally　be　allowed　in　all　estimates　for　harbour
works　would；　in　the　case　of　Famagousta；　be　superfluous。

There　are　two　enemies　to　be　resistedthe　sea；　and　the　silt。　The　latter
has　been　and　still　is　brought　down　by　the　Pedias　river；　this　has
entirely　blocked　the　ancient　harbour　of　Salamis；　and　partially　destroyed
that　of　Famagousta。　The　engineer　has　to　repel　these　enemies；　and　he
possesses　a　great　advantage　in　the　fact　that　Famagousta　has　already
existed　as　a　most　important　harbour；　therefore　he　is　not　experimenting
upon　an　unknown　bottom。　The　line　of　reefs　affords　the　engineer's　chief
desideratum；　〃a　sound　foundation；〃　and　the　materials　for　his　concrete
blocks　are　close　at　hand　in　the　chaotic　mass　of　stone　now　choking　with
ruins　the　area　of　the　city；　in　the　neighbouring　ruins　of　Salamis；　and；
nearer　still；　in　the　native　rock　from　which　Famagousta　has　been
quarried。　The　island　of　Santorin　from　whence　the　pozzolano　is　supplied
for　hydraulic　cement；　is　only　three　days　distant。　Few　places　possess　in
so　high　a　degree　the　natural　advantages　for　becoming　a　first…class
harbour；　and　it　has　been　computed　that　about　300　acres　of　water　can　be
converted　into　a　wall…locked　basin；　with　an　entrance　from　the　south
that　would　be　secure　during　all　weathers。　The　Bay　of　Famagousta　is
extremely　deep；　exceeding　150　fathoms　which　affords　an　additional
facility　for　getting　rid　of　the　contents　of　the　lighters；　as　the　mud
from　the　dredgers　could　be　discharged　at　sea　without　danger　of　its
return。

All　competent　persons　who　have　examined　the　present　harbour　are
unanimous　in　the　opinion　that　〃a　very　moderate　outlay　would　secure　a
first…class　port；　which　would；　as　an　impregnable　coaling…depot　and
arsenal；　complete　the　links　of　the　chain　of　fortresses　which　are　the
guardians　of　the　Mediterranean。　In　a　war　with　any　maritime　Power　the
first　necessity　is　an　uninterrupted　line　of　fortified　coaling…stations；
at　intervals　not　exceeding　five　days'　steaming　at　ten　knots。　A　naval　war
will　depend　entirely　upon　the　supply　of　coal；　which　will　in　all
probability　be　declared　〃contraband　of　war。〃　In　the　absence　of　a
dependable　chain　of　stations　THROUGHOUT　THE　WORLD；　the　action　of　the
most　powerful　cruisers　will　be　extremely　limited；　as　they　will　be
rendered　helpless　when　their　supply　is　reduced　to　the　minimum　sufficient
to　carry　them　to　a　friendly　port。

Where　oceans　must　be　traversed；　the　difficulty　will　be　increased；　as　the
coal…capacity　of　the　vessel　will　only　command　a　given　mileage；　she　will
therefore　be　in　her　weakest　condition　after　a　long　voyage；　and　as　her
fighting　power　must　depend　upon　her　steam；　precisely　as　the　strength　of
man　depends　upon　his　food；　she　must　be　absolutely　certain　of　obtaining　a
supply　of　coal　in　every　sea　where　her　presence　is　required。

Should　the　most　powerful　vessel　afloat；　after　a　long　cruise　during　which
she　has　encountered　head…winds　and　weather　that　had　caused　delay　and　a
great　consumption　of　fuel；　be　reduced　to　only　a　few　hours'　steaming；　she
would　be　at　the　mercy　of　an　inferior　antagonist　whose　bunkers　might　be
well　filled。　The　commerce　and　the　colonies　of　Great　Britain　demand　the
presence　of　our　vessels　in　every　sea；　the　greater　part　of　that　enormous
carrying…power　is　now　represented　by　steamers　which　have　replaced　the
sailing…vessels　of　old：　therefore　in　the　event　of　war　we　must　possess
coaling…depots　which　in　case　of　necessity　could　meet　the　demands　of　any
of　our　ships；　whether　naval　or　commercial。

The　attention　of　the　usually　far…seeing　public　is　seldom　directed　to
this　important　question　of　coaling…stations；　but　an　examination　of　a
recently　constructed　globe　will　discover　the　apparently　insignificant
red　dots　which　represent　the　dominant　power　of　England　in　every　portion
of　the　world。　The　smallest　island　may　become　the　most　impregnable　and
important　coaling…depot。　It　is　the　fashion　for　some　modern　reformers
（happily　few）　to　suggest　a　curtailment　of　the　British　Empire；　on　the
principle　that　〃by　pruning　we　should　improve　the　strength　of　the
national　tree。〃　If　there　are　rotten　boughs；　or　exhausting　and　useless
shoots；　the　analogy　might　be　practical；　but　if　we　examine　carefully　a
map　of　the　world　it　would　puzzle　the　Royal　Geographical　Society　to
determine　the　point　that　we　should　abandon。　An　example　of　temporary
insanity　was　displayed　in　the　evacuation　of　Corfu；　which　would　under　our
present　foreign　policy　have　become　invaluable　as　a　powerfully　fortified
coaling…station；　commanding　the　entrance　of　the　Adriatic　and　the
neighbouring　seas。　It　is　this　unfortunate　precedent　which　is　paralysing
all　the　natural　elasticity　of　commercial　enterprise　in　Cyprus；　as　the
inhabitants　and　English　alike　feel　their　insecurity；　and　hesitate　before
the　uncertain　future；　which　may　depend　upon　a　party　vote　in　the　distant
House　of　Commons。

There　can　be　no　doubt　that　Cyprus　or　Crete　was　requisite　to　England　as
the　missing　link　in　the　chain　of　our　communications　with　Egypt。　As　a
strategical　point；　Cyprus　must　be　represented　by　Famagousta；　without
which　it　would　be　useless　for　the　ostensible　purpose　of　its　occupation。
Many　persons　of　great　practical　experience　would　have　preferred　Crete；
as　already　possessing　a　safe　harbour　in　Suda　Bay；　with　a　climate
superior　to　that　of　Cyprus；　while　according　to　our　assumed　defensive
alliance　with　Turkey　in　the　event　of　a　renewed　attack　by　Russia；　we
should　have　acquired　the　advantage　of　Cyprus　whenever　required；　without
the　expense　or　responsibility；　and　we　should　in　addition　have
established　a　station　on　the　coast　of　Asia　Minor　at　the　secure　harbour
afforded　by　the　Gulf　of　Ayas　at　Alexandretta。

These　geographical　questions　are　a　matter　of　opinion；　but　now　that　we
actually　have　occupied　Cyprus　it　is　absolutely　necessary　to　do
something。　Without　Famagousta；　the　island　would　be　worthless　as　a　naval
station；　with　it；　as　a　first…class　harbour　and　arsenal；　we　should
dominate　the　eastern　portion　of　the　Mediterranean；　entirely　command　the
approach　to　Egypt；　and　keep　open　our　communications　with　the　Suez　Canal
and　the　consequent　route　to　India。　In　the　event　of　the　Euphrates　valley
line　of　railway　becoming　an　accomplished　fact；　Cyprus　will　occupy　the
most　commanding　position。　But；　all　these　advantages　will　be　neutralised
unless　Famagousta　shall　represent　the　power　of　England　like　Malta　and
Gibraltar。　The　more　minutely　that　we　scrutinise　the　question　of　a
Cyprian　occupation；　the　more　prominent　becomes　the　importance　of
Famagousta；　with　it；　Cyprus　is　the　key　of　a　great　position；　without　it；
the　affair　is　a　dead…lock。

There　is　unfortunately　a　serious　drawback　in　the　extreme　unhealthiness
of　this　otherwise　inv