cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第31章

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hands　were　delicate　and　well　cared　for；　but　disfigured　by　the　prevalent
habit　of　staining　the　nails　and　palms　with　henna。　This　plant　is　called
shenna　by　all　Turks　and　Cypriotes；　and　it　is　imported　from　Syria　for　the
purpose　of　dyeing　the　hair；　and　also　the　feet　and　hands　of　Turkish
women。　It　is　not　a　production　of　Cyprus；　as　has　been　erroneously　stated
by　some　authors；　I　made　particular　inquiries　in　all　portions　of　the
island；　and　of　all　classes；　upon　this　subject。　The　henna；　or　shenna；　is
only　to　be　met　with　in　some　few　gardens；　where　it　is　cultivated　as　an
ornamental　shrub；　in　the　same　manner　that　the　arbutus　may　be　seen　in　the
shrubberies　of　England。　The　Turkish　women　are　very　particular　in　dyeing
their　hair；　and　use　various　preparations。　The　shenna　produces　a　glossy
red；　which　some　years　ago　was　the　fashionable　tinge　in　England。　There　is
also　a　small　seed　of　a　plant　which　is　prepared　by　roasting　until　burnt；
like　coffee；　and　then　reducing　to　powder；　which　is　formed　into　a　paste
with　oil；　this　is　a　well…known　dye；　which　turns　the　hair　into　a　deep
black。　There　was　a　sudden　rush　for　information　when　the　British
occupation　of　Cyprus　was　announced　to　the　startled　public；　and　books
were　rather　hurriedly　put　together；　compiled　from　various　authorities；
which；　although　yielding　valuable　information　upon　many　points；
unfortunately　perpetuated　errors　by　reproducing　erroneous　statements。
The　asserted　existence　of　henna　as　〃an　indigenous　shrub　which　originated
the　name　of　Cyprus；〃　is　an　instance　of　such　mistakes；　similar　to　the
descriptions　of　〃HEATH…covered　surface；〃　when　no　such　plant　exists　upon
the　island。

The　longer　I　remained　in　the　neighbourhood　of　Kyrenia　the　deeper　was　my
regret　that　the　arrivals　of　strangers　should　take　place　in　the　southern
ports；　instead　of　receiving　their　first　impressions　of　Cyprus　by　an
introduction　to　this　lovely　coast。　I　was　never　afloat　on　the　northern
side；　but　the　view　must　be　strikingly　impressive；　as　the　trees；　ever
green　almost　to　the　water's　edge；　shadow　the　rocky　coves；　and　clothe　the
surface　to　the　base　of　the　mountains；　whilst；　at　a　short　distance　from
the　land　these　must　appear　as　though　rising　abruptly　from　the　sea。　The
castles　upon　the　extreme　summits　form　unmistakable　landmarks；　resembling
sentries　on　either　side　the　fort　and　harbour　of　Kyrenia。

On　6th　April　the　general　rendezvous　was　the　monastery　of　Bellapais；
three　and　a　half　miles　distant　from　Kyrenia；　in　response　to　the
invitation　of　Major　McCalmont；　7th　Hussars；　on　the　staff　of　Sir　Garnet
Wolseley；　who　had　taken　immense　trouble　for　the　gratification　of　his
guests　by　sending　tents；　baggage；　and　sleeping　accommodation　for　two
nights；　in　addition　to　every　kind　of　necessary　refreshments。

The　route　from　Kyrenia　lay　through　a　country　of　the　brightest　shades　of
green；　parallel　with　the　sea；　about　a　mile　and　a　half　distant；　towards
which　a　succession　of　deep　ravines；　which　formed　river…beds　in　the　rainy
season；　drained　from　the　mountains　at　right　angles　with　the　path。　This
side　of　the　Carpas　range　formed　a　strong　contrast　with　the　parched
southern　slopes；　as　every　garden　and　farm　was　irrigated　by　water
conducted　from　the　mountains　in　artificial　channels；　which　would
otherwise　have　been　absorbed　and　lost　in　the　wide　and　stony　stream…beds
if　left　to　its　natural　course。　We　passed　through　sombre　groves　of　very
ancient　olives　of　immense　girth；　then　through　villages　concealed　among　a
luxuriant　growth　of　fruit…trees；　the　almonds　being　already　large；　and
eaten　eagerly　by　the　inhabitants；　although　still　unripe。　The　oranges　in
heavy　crops　weighed　down　the　dark　green　branches；　the　deep　yellow　fruit
contrasting　brightly　with　the　foliage；　and　the　fields　of　barley　that　had
benefited　by　artificial　irrigation　looked　like　green　carpets　spread
between　the　neighbouring　villages　and　gardens。　Having　crossed　several
deep　and　wide　stream…beds；　in　one　of　which　the　water　still　trickled　in　a
clear　but　narrow　channel；　we　commenced　a　steep　ascent　among　scattered
but　numerous　caroub…trees；　which　gave　a　park…like　appearance　to　the
country；　and　upon　gaining　an　eminence　we　came　suddenly　upon　the　view　of
Bellapais。　The　monastery　was　not　more　than　600　yards　distant；　but　a　deep
hollow　intervened　between　the　opposing　heights；　which　necessitated　a
circuit　of　more　than　a　mile　before　we　could　reach　the　village。　It　would
be　impossible　to　select　a　more　beautiful　position　for　a　house　than　the
flat　summit　of　the　height　upon　which　we　stood。　The　valley　at　our　feet
nursed　a　rippling　stream　deep　in　the　bottom　of　a　precipitous　gorge；　the
rough　sides　clothed　with　myrtles；　which　now　occupied　basket…makers　who
were　completing　their　work　upon　the　spot　where　they　cut　their　wands　of
this　tough　wood　in　lieu　of　willow。　The　fine　old　Gothic　building　stood
before　us　on　the　opposite　height　upon　the　extreme　edge；　surrounded　by
trees　of　various　kinds；　including　tall　poplars　which　unfortunately　were
not　yet　in　leaf。　This　grand　old　pile　was　an　impressive　contrast　to　the
scene　around；　there　were　neat　villages　with　flat…topped　roofs　of　clay；
down　in　the　vale　far　beneath；　with　the　intense　blue　sea　washing　the
rocky　shore：　there　was　also　the　adjoining　village　at　the　rear；　occupying
the　same　plateau　as　the　monastery；　with　its　rich　gardens　and　groves　of
orange…trees；　the　ruined　walls　and　towers　of　Buffavento　upon　the　highest
crags　dominated　our　position　by　more　than　2；500　feet；　and　the　castle　of
St。　Hilarion　stood　upon　a　still　higher　elevation　on　the　western　sky…line
behind　Kyrenia。　There　was　nothing　modern　that　appeared　compatible　with
the　style　and　grandeur　of　Bellapais。　When　this　monastery　was　erected；
Cyprus　must　have　been　a　flourishing　and　populous　country　worthy　of　such
architecture；　but　the　present　surroundings；　although　harmonising　in
colouring；　and　in　a　quiet　passiveness　of　scene；　in　no　way　suggested　a
connection　with　a　past　that　gave　birth　either　to　the　Gothic　building　or
to　the　important　castles　of　Buffavento　and　St。　Hilarion。

Having　skirted　the　amphitheatre　upon　the　monastery　level；　we　passed
through　an　orange…garden　and　entered　the　courtyard。　The　church　occupies
the　right　side；　and　the　wall　is　fronted　by　cloisters　which；　supported
upon　arches；　form　a　quadrangle。　A　stone　staircase　ascends　from　the
cloisters　to　the　refectory　upon　the　left；　this　is　in　considerable　ruin；
but　must　originally　have　formed　an　imposing　hall。　Upon　the　flat　roof　of
the　cloisters；　which　is　perfect　for　three　sides　of　the　quadrangle；　a
magnificent　view　is　obtained　through　the　fine　old　Gothic　open　window；
which　looks　down　sheer　to　the　great　depth　below；　and　commands　the　entire
country　seaward。　Descending　into　the　courtyard　to　the　northern　cloister
we　pass　two　large　sarcophagi　of　white　marble。　One　of　these　has　been
elaborately　worked　in　rich　garlands　of　flowers　and　very　grand　bulls'
heads；　together　with　nude　figures；　all　of　which　have　been　much　damaged。
These　sarcophagi　have　been　used　as　cisterns　for　containing　water；　as　the
tap　is　still　visible。　Immediately　opposite　is　the　entrance　to　the　great
hall；　which　is　in　good　repair；　as　a　new　cement　floor　was　added　by　the
British　authorities；　with　the　intention　of　converting　it　into　a
temporary　hospital　when　the　troops　were　suffering　from　fever　at　Kyrenia。

This　hall　is　102　feet　long　and　33　feet　wide；　with　a　height　of　upwards　of
30　feet。　Nothing　can　exceed　the　beauty　of　the　view　from　the　windows　of
this　grand　entrance；　and　in　the　deep　recesses　we　found　Sir　Garnet　and
Lady　Wolseley　enjoying　the　scene；　while　our　host；　Major　McCalmont；
welcomed　his　guests　in　this　splendid　vestige　of　the　Knights　Templars。
The　abbey；　which　belonged　to　the　Latin　Church；　was　built　during　the
Lusignan　dynasty　by　Hugh　III。　in　about　1280　A。D。　and　was　destroyed　by
the　Turks。　The　castle　of　Buffavento；　upon　the　summit　of　the　mountain；
3240　feet　above　the　sea；　is　of　far　more　ancient　date；　and　is　interesting
from　the　fact　of　its　having　during　the　conquest　by　Richard　Coeur　de　Lion
succumbed　to　the　assault　conducted　in　person　by　that　king。　The　castle　of
Kyrenia　had　already　fallen；　and　the　wife；　daughter；　and　treasures　of
Isaac　Comnenus　fell　into　the　hands　of　the　victorious　English；　led　by　the
gallant　Guy　de　Lusignan　in　the　absence　of　Richard　I。；　who　was　at　that
time　incapacitated　through　illness；　which　detained　him　at　Lefkosia。　This
fortification　was　probably　the　original　defence　of　the　town；　and　could
have　had　no　relation　to　the　present　work；　which　is　of　a　far　later　date；
and　was　constructed　specially　for　an　armament　of　heavy　guns。

Captain　Savile　（101st　Royal　Irish）；　in　his　admirable　compilation　from
all　the　principal　works　that　have　been　written　upon　Cyprus；　states：


　　　　〃Richard　was　now　able　to　turn　his　thoughts　to　his
　　　　neglected　crusade；　he　returned　to　Limasol；　and　sent
　　　　Isaac's　daughter；　with　his　own　wife　and　sister；　on　before
　　　　him　to　St。　Jean　d'Acre。　On　5th　June；　1191；　Richard
　　　　himself　sailed　from　Cyprus；　leaving　the　island
　　　　in　charge　of　Richard　de　Canville　and　Robert　de
　　　　Turnham；　with　injunctions　to　keep　the　army　in　Syria
　　　　well　provided　with　provisions。

　　　　〃Isaac　was　placed　in　silver　fetters　and　taken　with
　　　　King　Richard　to　Syria；　where　he　was　handed　over　to
　　　　the　Hospitallers；　since　Knights　of　Rhodes；　for　safe
　　　　custody；　and　was　by　them　confined　in　the　Castle　of
　　　　Margat；　near　Tripoli；　where　he　died　shortly　afterwards。

　　　　〃Several　insurrections　subsequently　occurred　in
　　　　Cyprus；　but　were　all　suppressed　by　the　decisive　and
　　　　prompt　action　of　Robert　de　Turnham。

　　　　〃The　Templars　now　entered　into　negotiations　with
　　　　King　Richard　for　the　purchase　of　Cyprus；　and　they
　　　　eventually　obtained　it　from　him　for　the　sum　of　100；000
　　　　Saracenic　golden　besants；　it　was　further　arranged　that
　　　　40；000　golden　besants　should　be　paid　at　once；　and　the
　　　　remainder　as　soon　as　it　could　be　derived　from　the
　　　　revenues　of　the　island。〃

According　to　a　high　authority；　De　Mas　Latrie　（see　L'Histoire　de　l'Ile　de
Chypre；　vol。　ii。　p。　7）；　the　above　sum　would　now　represent　about　304；000
pounds　sterling。

Richard　had　at　once　appreciated　the　importance　of　Cyprus　as　a　base　of
operations　that　would　secure　a　supply　of　provisions　within　two　days'
sail　of　his　salient　point　of　attack；　and　to　which　he　could　retreat　in
the　event　of　failure。　The　geographical　position　remains　the　same；　but
unfortunately　Cyprus　is　no　longer　capable　of　furnishing　supplies　for　a
large　army；　and　the　hay　necessary　for　the　cavalry　was　obliged　to　be
imported　at　great　cost　immediately　upon　the　British　occupation　in　1878。

The　Templars　quickly　became　disgusted　with　their　bargain；　and　after　only
ten　months'　rule；　during　which　the　island　was　in　a　state　of　chronic
revolt；　they　endeavoured　to　persuade　King　Richard　to　cancel　the
agreement　of　purchase。

Captain　Savile　continues：

　　　　〃Richard　expressed　his　willingness　to　take　over
　　　　the　island；　but　refused　to　return　the　40；000　besants。
　　　　King　Guy　de　Lusignan　now　came　forward；　and　having
　　　　arranged　with　the　Templars　that　in　the　event　of
　　　　his　being　made　king　of　Cyprus　he　would　refund
　　　　to　them　what　they　had　paid；　went　to　Richard　and
　　　　asked　him　for　the　island　as　compensation　for　the　loss
　　　　of　the　crown　of　Jerusa