cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第34章

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pieces　of　the　same　material；　all　of　which　had　evidently　fallen　from　the
mountain's　side；　thus　proving　that　the　parent　mass　would　be　found　in
situ　were　the　high　cliffs　investigated。　The　mules　arrived；　and　I
directed　attention　of　Iiani　to　the　fact；　in　order　that　I　might　procure　a
specimen　by　sending　him　to　the　spot　upon　a　future　occasion。　We　now
entered　upon　groves　of　caroub…trees；　and　the　ground　was　covered　with
blocks　of　limestone　and　of　marbles。　As　we　proceeded　the　shore　became
exceedingly　narrow；　as　the　base　of　the　steep　mountain　sprang　from　within
a　short　distance　of　the　sea。　The　quantity　and　varieties　of　marbles
increased；　the　dark　green　was　present　in　large　blocks；　and　several
masses　of　bright　rose…colour　suggested　that　rare　and　valuable　qualities
might　be　profitably　worked　and　exported；　as　great　facilities　existed　in
the　presence　of　snug　little　coves　within　only　a　few　yards；　where　in　the
summer　months　native　vessels　of　twenty　or　thirty　tons　might　anchor　in
security。

The　country　now　became　exceedingly　wild　and　rugged。　The　sea　was　in　many
places　exactly　below　us　as　we　skirted　the　cliffs　and　occasionally
crossed　the　beaches　of　narrow　coves。　The　high　mountain　upon　our
immediate　left　was　the　western　terminus　of　the　Carpas　range；　and
exhibited　peculiar　geological　features；　eruptive　rocks　having　burst　in
some　places　through　the　limestone　and　created　great　disturbance。　The
route　was　exceedingly　interesting　and　beautiful；　rocks　of　every　shade　of
colour　were　mingled　with　bright　green　foliage；　the　sea　was　an　emerald
green　in　the　shallow　coves；　and　dark　blue　within　a　few　hundred　paces　of
the　shore；　while　a　brisk　breeze　curled　the　waves　and　tipped　their　crests
with　a　glistening　white。　The　path　at　length　turned　to　the　left　and　led
through　a　gap　that　rounded　the　mountain　base；　and　formed　the　extreme　end
of　the　Jurassic　limestone；　which　only　exists　in　Cyprus　in　the　peculiar
wall…like　Carpasian　range　running　from　west　to　east　upon　the　northern
coast。

We　crossed　a　stream　of　water　at　the　bottom　of　the　gorge　which　winds
through　the　narrow　glen　that　terminates　the　range；　and　ascending　upon
the　opposite　side；　we　at　once　entered　upon　steep　slopes　composed　of
marls　interspersed　with　an　exceedingly　bright　rose…coloured　marble　in
veins　of　about　two　feet　thickness。　This　would　probably　develop
considerable　blocks　if　quarried　to　a　greater　depth。

Continuing　for　about　two　miles　along　the　glen；　which　was　cultivated　with
barley　in　all　available　localities；　we　several　times　crossed　the　stream
in　its　winding　course；　and　my　dogs　hunted　the　steep　myrtle…covered　banks
in　expectation　of　game；　but　nothing　moved；　and　the　croaking　of　numerous
frogs　was　the　only　sign　of　life。　The　glen　now　widened　to　a　valley　about
a　mile　and　three…quarters　in　diameter；　surrounded　upon　all　sides　by
heights；　and　we　commenced　one　of　the　steepest　ascents　in　Cyprus；　up　the
face　of　the　slope　about　1000　feet　above　the　bottom。　The　zigzags　were
upon　a　surface　of　white　marl；　which　during　wet　weather　would　become　as
slippery　as　soap；　and　be　impassable　for　loaded　animals。　Many　times　our
mules　were　forced　to　halt　and　rest；　but　they　were　good　and　sure…footed
beasts；　that　could　always　be　depended　upon。

At　length　we　gained　the　summit；　which　was　a　total　change　of　scene。
Instead　of　descending　upon　the　other　side；　as　I　had　expected；　we　had
arrived　at　a　plateau　eight　or　nine　miles　in　length　from　north　to　south；
and　an　invisible　distance　from　east　to　west。　The　soil　was　a　rich　reddish
chocolate；　forming　a　grateful　contrast　to　the　glaring　white　marls　that
we　had　just　quitted；　and　which　composed　the　steep　hills　that　surrounded
the　lower　basin。　A　growth　of　young　pines　and　other　evergreen　shrubs
ornamented　the　surface；　and　at　about　a　quarter　of　a　mile　from　the　summit
of　the　pass　by　which　we　had　arrived　we　halted　at　a　well　of　pure　water
among　a　small　grove　of　olive…trees。　Although　we　were　at　least　1000　feet
above　the　valley；　the　water　was　only　ten　feet　from　the　coping…stone　by
measurement。　There　could　be　little　doubt　that　the　perennial　stream　in
the　deep　glen　was　the　result　of　the　drainage　of　this　extensive
table…land；　corresponding　with　similar　heights　upon　the　other　side。

Having　breakfasted　by　the　well　of　deliciously　cold　water；　we　remounted；
and　continued　our　route　along　the　extensive　table…land。　This　was
cultivated　in　many　places；　but　as　we　advanced　for　two　or　three　miles　the
country　became　exceedingly　wild；　and　we　entered　a　wood　of　Pinus
maritima；　composed　of　young　trees　of　several　years'　growth；　and　older
stems　that　had　been　mutilated　in　the　disgraceful　manner　that
characterises　all　Cyprian　forests。　There　was　not　one　perfect　tree　above
eight　years'　growth；　but　every　stem　had　been　cut　off　about　six　feet　from
the　top　for　the　sake　of　the　straight　pole。　Trees　of　fifteen　years　or
more　had　been　mercilessly　hacked　for　the　small　amount　of　turpentine　that
such　trunks　would　produce；　and　the　bark　had　been　ripped　off　for　tanning。
Great　quantities　of　mastic　bushes　covered　the　surface　between　the　pines；
and　even　these　exhibited　the　continual　attacks　of　the　woodcutter's
grubbing…axe；　which　had　torn　up　the　roots；　in　addition　to　the　stems；　for
the　requirements　of　the　lime…burner。　The　red　soil　is　so　propitious　to
the　growth　of　pines　that；　in　spite　of　the　unremitting　destruction；　the
ground　was　covered　with　young　plants；　self…sown　from　the　fallen　cones。
If　these　young　forests　were　protected　for　twelve　or　fourteen　years；　the
surface　would　again　be　restored　to　the　original　woodland　that　once
ornamented　this　portion　of　the　island。　Under　the　present　conditions　of
Cyprus　all　wholesome　laws　and　enactments　are　practically　ridiculed　by
the　inhabitants；　as　there　are　no　foresters　or　keepers　to　enforce　the
orders　of　the　government。　A　governor　may　sit　upon　the　top　of　Olympus　and
issue　wise　decrees　like　Jupiter；　but　unfortunately　he　does　not　possess
the　thunderbolts；　as　the　country　is　so　poor　that　it　cannot　afford　to　pay
the　salaries　necessary　for　the　support　of　foresters　and　the　officers
required　for　this　special　department。　I　myself　met　droves　of　donkeys　and
mules　loaded　with　wood　and　accompanied　by　their　owners　with　their
destructive　axes；　all　wending　their　way　through　the　forest　to　the　town
of　Morphu；　which　is　thus　supplied　with　fuel　for　baking；　cooking；　lime…
burning；　and　all　other　purposes。

It　is　impossible　to　feel　amiable　when　passing　through　these　desolating
scenes；　where　nature；　originally　so　beautiful；　has　been　defaced；　and　the
people；　instead　of　deriving　pleasure　from　natural　beauties；　are　obtuse
to　all　the　surroundings；　which；　according　to　educated　taste；　would
ensure　appreciation。　I　felt　inclined　to　upset　the　donkeys；　capture　their
proprietors；　and　。　。　。　I　could　not　have　hung　them　upon　the　trees　that
they　had　defaced；　for　no　bough　had　been　left　that　would　have　supported
their　weight　。　。　。　and　there　was　no　rope。

While　these　vindictive　and　statesman…likethoughts　boiled　within　me；　the
naturally　courteous　people　made　their　graceful　salaams　as　we　passed；　and
studiously　conducted　their　heavily…laden　donkeys　out　of　the　path　to　make
way　for　our　advance；　that　otherwise　would　have　been　effectually　choked
by　the　throng　of　bush…and…faggot…laden　animals；　which　looked　like
〃Birnam…wood　marching　to　Dunsinane。〃　In　my　heart　I　immediately　forgave
the　poor　people；　I　knew　that　the　man　with　the　axe　who　marched　behind　was
as　ignorant；　and　not　so　strong；　as　his　donkey　who　carried　the　load。　They
had　been　both　subjects　of　a　bad　government；　and　it　was　not　their　fault
that　they　were　despoilers。　You　might　as　well　blame　the　wind　for　the
destruction　of　venerable　trees；　or　the　locusts　for　devouring　the　crops；
they　were　ungoverned；　and　unfortunately　the　instinct　of　uncivilised　man
is　to　destroy。　I　shall　say　more　upon　this　important　subject　when　we
arrive　among　the　last　remaining　forests　of　the　Troodos　mountains。

We　rode　onwards；　always　through　the　same　wilderness　of　old　tree…stems
hacked；　and　young　trees　that　would　be　hacked；　at　length　we　saw　on　a
cleared　space　in　the　distance　what　I　imagined　to　be　a　long　brown　rock
lying　upon　the　surface；　but　upon　riding　out　of　the　path　to　examine　this
object　I　found　it　was　a　splendid　trunk　of　a　pine…tree　more　that　two　feet
in　diameter。　Why　this　had　been　spared　for　so　many　years　I　cannot　say；
but　its　size　suggested　reflections　upon　the　original　forests　that　must
have　covered　the　surface　and　have　ornamented　the　once　beautiful　island
of　Cyprus；　now　denuded；　and　shorn　of　every　natural　attraction。

I　again　became　angry；　visions　of　the　past　primaeval　forests　appeared
before　me；　all　of　which　had　been　destroyed：　and　as　formerly　we　hung　a
man　in　England　for　cutting　an　oak　sapling；　I　thought　that　the　same　cure
for　timber…destroying　propensities　might　save　the　few　remaining　forests
in　this　island。　While　indulging　in　this　strain　of　unphilanthropic
thought　we　overtook　another　throng　of　wood…laden　donkeys　and　their
proprietors：　again　they　smiled；　courteously　salaamed；　and　vacated　the
path　for　us；　little　knowing　what　my　inward　thoughts　had　been。　Of　course
I　smiled；　salaamed　as　courteously　in　return；　and　forgave　them　at　once；
and　we　proceeded　on　our　way　condemning　Turkish　rule；　the　impecuniosity
of　our　own　government；　the　miserable　conditions　of　our　present
occupation；　which　rendered　Cyprus　neither　fish；　flesh；　nor　fowl；　and
thus　by　degrees　I　lashed　myself　into　the　worst　possible　frame　of　mind；
until　。　。　。　we　overtook　another　throng　of　polite　donkeys　and　their
proprietors；　who　salaamed　and　got　out　of　our　way。　Upon　suddenly　emerging
from　the　forest　upon　the　edge　of　a　steep　slope；　we　looked　down　upon　the
barren　sand…coloured　plain　of　Messaria。　Our　guide　Iiani；　who　had　been
asleep　and　awake　for　at　least　eight　miles；　suddenly　burst　out　into　a
ditty；　and　explained　that　a　village　in　the　plain　below　was　Morphu；　the
home　of　his　wife　and　family。

Even　from　this　elevated　point　of　view　Morphu　looked　a　long　way　off。　The
sleepy　Iiani　was　sufficiently　wide　awake　to　steer　for　his　wife；　and　we
had　made　a　long　march　already。　I　doubted　the　possibility　of　the　loaded
camels　ascending　the　steep　slope；　which　had　severely　tried　our　mules；
and　I　felt　sure　that　liani's　old　camel　would　either　knock　up　or　tumble
down　with　his　load；　should　he　attempt　the　ascent。　It　was　of　no　use　to
reflect；　and　as　Morphu　lay　before　us　in　the　now　barren　and　sun…smitten
plain；　we　touched　our　animals　with　the　spur　and　pressed　on。　Descending
for　some　miles；　we　passed　a　garden　of　olives；　that　must　have　been
upwards　of　a　thousand　years　old；　upon　our　right；　and　still　inclining
downwards；　through　ground　cultivated　with　cereals　completely　withered　by
the　drought；　we　at　length　arrived　at　the　broad　but　perfectly　dry　bed　of
the　river。　Crossing　this；　we　steered　for　a　grove　of　ancient　olive…trees；
which　I　at　once　selected　for　a　camping…place；　on　the　outskirts　of　the
town。　We　were　now　twenty…three　miles　from　Lapithus；　and　I　felt　sure　that
our　baggage　animals　would　not　arrive　till　nightfall。

As　we　sat　beneath　one　of　these　grand　old　olive…trees　alone；　Iiani　having
taken　his　mules　to　his　home；　and　probably　at　the　same　time　having
advertised　our　arrival；　throngs　of　women　and　children　approached　to
salaam　and　to　stare。　I　always　travel