cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第49章

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road。

When　about　fourteen　miles　from　Limasol　we　entered　upon　a　grand　scene；
which　exhibited　the　commencement　of　the　wine…producing　district。　The
road　was　scarped　from　the　mountain　side　several　hundred　feet　above　the
river；　which　murmured　over　its　rocky　bed　in　the　bottom　of　the　gorge。　We
were　skirting　a　deep　valley；　and　upon　either　side　the　mountains　rose　to
a　height　of　about　1400　feet；　completely　covered　with　vineyards　from　the
base　to　the　summit；　this　long　vale　or　chasm　extended　to　the　Troodos
range；　which　towered　to　upwards　of　6000　feet；　at　a　distance　of　about
fourteen　miles　immediately　in　our　front。　The　vines　were　all　green　with
their　early　foliage；　and　the　surface　of　the　hill…sides　was　most
cheering；　contrasting　with　the　yellow　plain　we　had　left　at　Limasol。

The　good　road　rendered　travelling　delightful　after　the　stony　paths　that
we　had　traversed　for　some　months　in　Cyprus；　and　the　time　passed　so
rapidly　that　we　could　hardly　believe　the　distance　marked　upon　the
nineteenth　milestone；　where　it　was　necessary　to　halt　for　the　arrival　of
our　baggage　animals。　After　waiting　till　nearly　dark　we　found　they　had
quitted　the　new　road　and　preferred　a　short　cut　across　country；　which　had
led　them　to　the　village　of　Menagria　down　in　the　glen　nearly　a　mile　below
us。　We　walked　down　the　steep　hill　and　joined　the　party；　pitched　the
tent；　and　made　ready　for　the　night。

On　the　following　morning；　instead　of　adhering　to　the　new　road；　we
descended　to　the　bottom　of　the　gorge　and　crossed　the　river　near　some
water…mills；　as　the　bridge　was　not　yet　completed　in　the　distant　angle　of
the　glen。　We　now　ascended　an　exceedingly　steep　hill　from　the　river's
bed；　which　severely　tried　our　animals；　until；　after　passing　a　succession
of　cereal　crops　and　vineyards；　we　arrived　at　the　summit；　about　1200　feet
above　the　valley。　From　this　point　the　view　was　magnificent。　The
pine…covered　sides　of　Troodos　appeared　close　before　us；　and　a　valley
stretched　away　to　our　right　richly　clothed　with　trees　below　the　steep
vine…covered　sides　of　the　surrounding　mountains。　Keeping　to　our　left　and
passing　through　several　insignificant　villages；　we　commenced　a　most
dangerous　descent；　with　an　occasional　deep　precipice　on　the　right　of　the
extremely　narrow　path；　until　we　reached　a　contracted　but　verdant　glen。
This　was　a　remarkable　change：　we　had　suddenly　entered　one　of　those
picturesque　vales　for　which　Devonshire　is　famous。　The　vegetation　had
changed　to　that　of　Europe；　as　we　were　now　nearly　3000　feet　above　the
sea。　Apple　and　pear　trees　of　large　size　were　present；　not　in　orchards；
but　growing　independently　as　though　wild。　Dog…roses　of　exquisite　colour
were　in　full　bloom；　and　reminded　us　of　English　hedges。　Beautiful
oak…trees　scattered　upon　the　green　surface　gave　a　park…like　appearance
to　the　scene；　and　numerous　streams　of　clear　water　rippled　though　the
myrtle…covered　banks；　over　the　deep　brown　rocks　of　the　plutonic
formation；　which　had　now　succeeded　to　the　cretaceous　limestone。

It　was　a　curious　geological　division；　limited　by　the　glen：　on　the　left；
the　hills　and　mountains　were　the　usual　white　marls　and　cretaceous
limestone；　while　on　the　right　everything　was　plutonic　or　granitic；
including　gneiss；　syenite；　and　metamorphous　rocks　of　various　characters。
The　soil　of　the　glen　was　red；　and　the　villages；　built　of　sun…baked
bricks　of　this　colour；　harmonised　with　the　dark　green　of　rich　crops　of
wheat　that　had　been　irrigated　by　the　never…failing　water…power。　We　had
now　rejoined　the　English　road；　which　passed　along　the　bottom　of　the
glen；　and　which　was　yet　incomplete；　several　gangs　of　men　were　working　at
intervals；　and　in　the　scarps；　where　deep　cuttings　had　been　necessary；　I
remarked　a　considerable　amount　of　ironstone。

A　few　miles　through　this　interesting　scenery　brought　us　to　the　village
of　Mandria；　where　a　strong　working　party　was　engaged　in　erecting　a
wooden　bridge　upon　masonry　piers。　We　now　turned　off　to　the　left；　over
rough　but　richly…wooded　hills；　leaving　the　English　road；　which　extended
direct　to　Platraes；　as　our　course　was　altered　towards　the　large　village
of　Phyni；　situated　at　the　foot　of　the　Troodos　mountain。　There　could
hardly　be　a　worse　or　more　dangerous　path　over　the　high　and　precipitous
hills；　these　were　once　more　cretaceous；　and　in　wet　weather　must　be　as
slippery　as　soap。　In　many　places　the　path　was　hardly　nine　inches　wide；
with　a　deep　gorge　beneath　for　at　least　150　feet。　At　length　we　passed
over　the　crest；　and　looked　down　upon　Phyni；　in　the　vine…covered　dell
below。　As　far　as　the　eye　could　reach　upon　all　directions　for　many　miles；
hill…sides；　valleys；　and　mountains　exceeding　4000　feet　were　entirely
covered　with　vines；　not　a　yard　of　soil　was　unoccupied　by　this　important
branch　of　cultivation。　Immediately　before　us；　on　the　other　side　of
Phyni；　in　the　dark　hollow；　was　the　base　of　Troodos；　from　which　the
mountain　rose　so　steeply　that　it　appeared　impossible　to　ascend　with
mules。　A　narrow　line　was　pointed　out　upon　the　thickly　bush…covered　sides
of　the　mountain；　and　we　were　informed　that　we　should　reach　Trooditissa
monastery　by　that　path。　I　thought　there　must　be　some　mistake　in　the
interpretation；　however　we　dismounted；　and　preferred　walking　down　the
steep　zigzags　that　led　to　Phyni；　half　hidden　in　masses　of　bright　green
foliage　of　various　fruit…trees；　now　exactly　at　our　feet。

This　was　a　very　peculiar　village；　as　the　broad　flat　roofs　of　the　houses
formed　terraces；　upon　these　you　could　at　once　walk　from　the　steep
hill…slope；　into　which　the　houses　were　inserted　by　scarping　out　a　level
space　for　a　foundation。　The　effect　was　remarkable；　as　the　house…roofs；
in　lines；　seemed　like　flights　of　steps　upon　the　mountain　side。　We　halted
at　the　first　decent…looking　dwelling　and　rested　beneath　the　shade　of　an
apricot…tree　within　a　small　courtyard。　The　people　at　once　assembled；　and
the　owner　of　the　house　brought　us　black　wine　and　raki　of　his　own　make；
the　latter　he　was　now　engaged　in　distilling；　and　some　pigs　were
revelling　in　the　refuse　that　had　been　thrown　in　a　heap　below　the　window
of　the　store。　This　man　was　proud　of　his　wine；　as　it　was　tolerably　free
from　the　taste　of　tar；　the　jars；　having　been　more　than　fifty　years　in
constant　use；　had　lost　the　objectionable　flavour。　We　were　thirsty　and
hot；　therefore　the　wine　was　not　disagreeable；　and　we　lunched　beneath　the
apricot。

After　an　hour's　rest　the　real　up…hill　work　commenced。　We　crossed　a　broad
channel　of　running　water　beneath　groves　of　green　trees；　and　entered　a
path　on　the　opposite　side　of　the　village；　this　skirted　a　deep　and
precipitous　gorge；　through　which　the　river　flowed　from　the　high　and　dark
ravine　that　cleft　the　mountain　from　the　ssummit　to　the　bottom。　A
water…mill　was　at　work　below　us　on　the　right；　and　always　ascending　along
the　side　of　the　ravine；　with　the　rushing　sound　of　the　stream　below；　we
arrived　after　half　a　mile　at　the　base　of　the　apparently　impossible
route。　Right　and　left；　right　and　left；　went　the　short　and　sharp　zigzags；
the　path　covered　with　rolling　stones　and　loose　rocks；　which　clattered
under　the　feet　of　the　tired　mules　and　rolled　down　the　steep　inclines。
The　sound　of　the　stream　below　became　fainter；　and　the　narrow　angle　of
the　deep　cleft　grew　darker；　as　we　ascended。　We　looked　down　upon　the
rounded　tops　of　various　trees；　including　the　rich　verdure　of　planes；
which　skirted　the　banks　of　the　hidden　stream；　and　we　entered　upon　pines
rising　from　an　under…growth　of　beautiful　evergreens；　including　the
fragrant　tremithia；　the　light　green　foliage　of　the　arbutus；　with　its
bright　red　bark　contrasting　strongly　with　the　dark　shade　of　the　dense
and　bushy　ilex。　The　mastic　was　there；　and　as　we　increased　our　altitude
the　Pinus　laricio　and　Pinus　maritima　varied　the　woods　by　their　tall
spars；　beneath　which　a　perfect　garden　of　flowers　almost　covered　the
surface　of　the　earth；　these　included　the　white　and　purple　cistus；　dog…
roses；　honeysuckle；　and　several　varieties　unknown　to　me。　Among　the
ornamental　dwarfs　were　a　quantity　of　the　Sumach；　which　is　an　article　of
export　from　Cyprus　for　the　use　of　the　tanner　and　dyer。

The　view　became　very　beautiful　as　we　ascended；　until　at　length；　after　a
couple　of　miles　of　the　steepest　zigzags；　we　turned　a　corner　of　the　rocks
and　looked　down　the　great　depth　at　our　right；　below　the　path；　upon　the
long　white　thread　of　a　waterfall；　which　for　some　hundred　feet　of　a
severe　incline；　broken　by　occasional　plunges；　issues　from　the　rocky
cleft；　and　forms　the　river　in　the　ravine　below。　〃There　is　the　monastery
of　Trooditissa！〃　exclaimed　our　guide。　About　200　feet　above　our　level；
snugly　nested　among　splendid　walnut…trees　in　the　dark　angle　of　the
mountains；　were　the　grey　and　brown　gables；　half　concealed　by　the　rich
foliage　of　plane…trees；　walnuts；　mulberry；　and　other　varieties。

About　half　a　mile　from　this　point　of　view　the　mules　scrambled　up　one　of
the　worst　portions　of　the　route；　and　we　arrived　at　a　clear　and　cold
spring　issuing　suddenly　from　the　rocks　through　a　stone　spout；　protected
by　an　arch　of　masonry：　this　was　received　in　a　rude　wooden　trough　formed
from　the　trunk　of　a　hollowed　pine；　and　overflowed　across　the　path　to
water　some　terraced　gardens　immediately　below。　A　walnut　and　a　fig…tree
intermingled　their　branches　above　the　arch；　and　formed　an　agreeable
shade　to　shelter　weary　travellers；　who　might　sit　by　the　welcome　spring
after　toiling　up　the　rough　mountain　side。　About　eighty　yards　beyond；　by
a　level　path；　we　reached　the　widest…spreading　walnut…tree　that　I　have
ever　seen；　the　new　foliage　was　soft　and　uninjured　by　the　wind；　producing
a　dense　shade　over　an　area　sufficient　for　numerous　tents。　This
magnificent　specimen　of　vegetation　grew　upon　the　edge　of　an　abrupt
descent；　perpendicular　to　a　series　of　gardens；　all　terraced　out　to　a
depth　of　about　150　feet；　to　the　bottom　of　a　narrow　gorge；　thus　one…half
of　the　branches　overhung　the　steep；　while　the　other　half　shaded　a
portion　of　the　monastery　courtyard。

We　halted　and　dismounted　beneath　this　grand　old　tree；　where　the
picturesque　but　not　clean　old　monk；　with　some　of　his　ecclesiastics；　were
ready　to　meet　us　with　a　courteous　welcome。



CHAPTER　XII。

THE　MONASTERY　OF　TROODITISSA。

The　monastery　of　Trooditissa　had　no　architectural　pretensions；　it　looked
like　a　family　of　English　barns　that　had　been　crossed　with　a　Swiss
chalet。　The　roofs　of　six　separate　buildings　of　considerable　dimensions
were　arranged　to　form　a　quadrangle；　which　included　the　chapel；　a　long
building　at　right　angles　with　the　quadrangle；　which　had　an　upper　balcony
beneath　the　roof；　so　as　to　form　a　covered　protection　to　a　similar
arrangement　below；　and　an　indescribable　building　which　was　used　by　the
monks　as　their　store　for　winter　provisions。　The　staircases　were　outside；
as　in　Switzerland；　and　entered　upon　the　open…air　landings　or　balconies；
these　were　obscure　galleries；　from　which　doors　led　to　each　separate
apartment；　occupied　by　the　monks　and　fleas。　The　obscurity　may　appear
strange；　as　the　balconies　were　on　the　outside；　but　the　eaves　of　the　roof
at　an　angle　of　about　48　degrees　projected　some　feet　as　a　protection　from
the　winter's　snow；　and　occasioned　a　darkness　added　to　the　gloom　of
blueish　grey　gneiss　which　formed　the　walls　and　the　deep　brownish　red　of
the　tiled　roof。