cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第58章

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were　excellent；　and　never　quarrelled　or　complained；　they　appeared　to
have　been　mesmerised　by　the　placid　character　of　their　position；　and　to
have　become　angelic；　especially　in　not　fatiguing　themselves　through
over…exertion。　With　the　monks　the　case　was　different。　In　this　quiet
retreat；　where　man　reigned　alone；　as　Adam　in　the　Garden　of　Eden；　where
the　cares　and　anxieties　of　married　life　were　unknown　within　the　sacred
walls　of　celibacy；　a　single　representative　of　the　other　sex　existed　in
the　ubiquitous　shape　of　a　〃maid　of　all　work；〃　and　as　Eve　caused　the
first　trouble　in　the　world；　so　the　monastery　〃maid〃　disturbed　the
otherwise　peaceful　existence　of　Neophitos。

This　maid's　name　was　〃Christina；〃　and　she　received　the　munificent　sum　of
one　hundred　piastres　per　annum　as　wages；　which　in　English　money　would　be
fifteen　shillings　and　sixpence　every　year。　The　world　is　full　of
ingratitude；　and　strange　to　say；　Christina　was　dissatisfied；　which
naturally　wounded　the　feelings　of　the　good　monks；　as　in　addition　to　this
large　sum　of　money　she　received　her　food　and　clothes；　the　latter
consisting　of　full　trousers；　and　a　confusion　of　light　material；　which；
having　no　shape　whatever；　I　could　not　describe。　Christina；　though　young；
was　not　pretty；　and　she　was　always　either　crying　or　scolding；　which
would　of　course　spoil　any　beauty；　while　at　the　same　time　she　was　either
washing　all　the　clothes　belonging　to　the　whole　establishment　of　monks　（a
very　disagreeable　business）；　or　hanging　them　out　to　dry　near　the　spring；
or　she　was　sweeping　the　monastery；　or　arranging　the　very　dirty　rooms　of
the　establishment；　or　baking　all　the　bread　that　was　required；　or　cooking
the　dinner；　or　repairing　all　the　old　clothes　which　the　monks　wore　when
they　were　only　fit　for　a　paper…mill。　As　there　was　no　special
accommodation　in　the　shape　of　a　laundry；　Christina　had　to　collect
sticks；　and　make　a　huge　fire　beneath　a　copper　cauldron　in　the　open　air；
into　which　she　plunged　all　the　different　vestments　of　the　monks　and
priests；　and　stewed　them　before　washing。　This　was　a　Cyprian　〃maid　of　all
work；〃　whose　gross　ingratitude　troubled　the　minds　of　her　〃pastors　and
masters；〃　and　one　day　a　peculiar　mental　disturbance　pervaded　the　whole
priestly　establishment　and　caused　a　monasterial　commotion；　as；　after　a
violent　fit　of　temper　attended　by　crying；　Christina　had　declared
solemnly　that　she　〃would　stand　it　no　longer；〃　and　〃she　wished　TO　BETTER
HERSELF！〃

Whenever　there　was　a　difficulty　the　monks　came　to　me；　why；　I　cannot
imagine。　If　the　shepherd's　goats　invaded　their　gardens　and　destroyed　the
onions　and　the　beet…root　crops；　they　applied　to　me。　Of　course　I　advised
them　to　〃fence　their　gardens；〃　and　they　went　away　satisfied；　but　did　not
carry　out　the　suggestion　so　in　due　time　their　crops　were　devoured。　They
now　told　me　that　THEY　ALWAYS　HAD　DIFFICULTY　WITH　WOMEN！　This　new　theory
startled　me　almost　as　much　as　the　novelty　of　the　old　monks'　stories。
They　explained　that　YOUNG　WOMEN　WOULDN'T　WORK；　AND　OLD　WOMEN　COULDN'T
WORK。　It　had　not　occurred　to　them　that　a　middle…aged　woman　might　have
combined　all　that　they　desired。　Knowing　their　strict　moral　principles；　I
had　suggested　an　〃old　woman〃　as　the　successor　of　Christina；　as　I
explained　to　them　that；　to　be　in　harmony　with　the　establishment；　a　woman
of　a　〃certain　age〃　as　general　servant　would　not　detract　from　the
religious　character　of　the　place。　However　I　might　argue；　the　old　monk
hesitated；　but　while　the　monk　wavered；　Christina's　〃monkey　was　up；〃　and；
taking　her　child　in　her　arms；　she　started　off　without　giving　a　〃month's
notice；〃　and　fairly　left　the　monastery；　with　monks；　priests；　deacons；
servants　and　the　dogs　all　aghast　and　barking。　There　was　nobody　to　wash
the　linen；　to　bake　the　bread；　to　sweep　the　rooms；　to　cook　the　dinner；　to
mend　the　clothes！　Christina　was　gone；　and　the　gentle　sex　was　no　longer
represented　in　the　monastery　of　Trooditissa。

I　was　sorry　for　Christina；　but　I　was　glad　the　child　was　gone；　although　I
pitied　the　poor　abandoned　and　neglected　little　creature　with　all　my
heart。　As　a　rule；　〃maids　of　all　work〃　should　not　be　mothers；　but　if　they
are；　they　should　endeavour　to　care　for　the　unfortunate　child。　This
wretched　little　thing　was　about　two　years　olda　girl；　its　eyes　were
nearly　closed　with　inflammation　caused　by　dirt　and　neglect；　it　was
naked；　with　the　exception　of　a　filthy　rag　that　hung　in　tatters　scarcely
below　its　hips；　and　as　its　ill…tempered　and　over…worked　mother
alternately　raved；　or　cried；　the　child；　which　even　at　this　age　depended
mainly　upon　her　nursing　for　its　food；　joined　in　a　perpetual　yell；　which
at　length　terminated　in　a　faint　and　wearied　moan；　until　it　laid　itself
down　upon　the　bare；　hard　stones；　and　fell　asleep。　It　was　a　sad　picture
of　neglect　and　misery；　the　shepherd's　pretty　children　shunned　it；　and　in
its　abandoned　solitude　the　little　creature　had　to　amuse　itself。　The　face
looked　like　that　of　an　old　careworn　person　who　had　lost　all　pleasure　in
the　world；　and　the　child　wandered　about　alone　and　uncared　for；　its　only
plaything　was　my　good…tempered　dog　Wise；　who　allowed　himself　to　be
pulled　about　and　teased　in　the　most　patient　manner。　I　cured　the　child's
eyes　after　some　days'　attention；　and　my　wife　had　it　washed；　and　made　it
decent　clothes。　This　little　unusual　care；　with　a　few　kind　words　in　a
strange　language　only　interpreted　by　a　smile；　attracted　the　poor　thing
to　the　tent；　where　it　would　sit　for　hours；　until　it　at　length　found
solace　in　the　child's　great　refuge；　sleep。　It　would　always　follow　Lady
Baker　to　and　fro　along　the　only　level　walk　we　had；　from　the　tent　to　the
running　spring；　and　would　sit　down　by　her　side　directly　she　arrived　at
our　favourite　seata　large　flat　rock　looking　down　upon　a　precipitous
descent　to　the　ravine　some　500　feet　below；　and　commanding　a　view　of　the
low　country　and　the　distant　sea。　It　was　an　obstinate　and　perverse　little
creature；　and　it　insisted　upon　climbing　upon　rocks　and　standing　upon　the
extreme　edge　overhanging　a　precipice。　If　it　had　been　the　loved　and　only
offspring　of　fond　parents；　heiress　to　a　large　estate；　it　would　of　course
have　tumbled　over；　in　the　absence　of　nurses　and　a　throng　of　careful
attendants；　but　never　having　been　cared　for　since　its　birth；　it
possessed　an　instinctive　knowledge　of　self…preservation；　and　declined　to
relieve　its　mother　of　an　extra　anxiety。　It　was　an　agreeable　change　to
lose　the　sound　of　a　child's　constant　wailing；　and　I　suggested　to　the
monks　that　its　presence　was　hardly　in　accordance　with　the　severe　aspect
of　the　establishment。　There　was　some　mystery　connected　with　it　of　which
I　am　still　ignorant；　as　I　never　ask　questions；　but　it　is　at　the　least
ill…judged　and　thoughtless　on　the　part　of　〃maids　of　all　work〃　to　engage
themselves　to　any　situation　where　the　kissing　of　a　rock；　or　a　holy
effigy；　may　lead　to　complications。　It　was　of　no　use　to　moralise；
Christina　was　gone；　together　with　the　child；　there　was　absolute　quiet　in
the　monastery；　neither　the　scolding　of　the　mother；　nor　the　crying　of　an
infant；　was　heard。　The　monks　looked　more　austere　than　ever；　and　remained
in　unwashed　linen；　until　they　at　length　succeeded　in　engaging　a　charming
substitute　in　a　middle…aged　maid　of　all　work　of　seventy…five！

About　the　20th　July　the　swallows　disappeared；　and　I　have　no　idea　to　what
portion　of　the　world　they　would　migrate　at　this　season。　In　the　low
country　the　heat　is　excessive；　and　even　at　the　altitude　of　Trooditissa
the　average；　since　the　1st　of　the　month；　had　been　at　7　A。M。　70。7
degrees3　P。M。　77。3　degrees。

The　birds　that　had　sung　so　cheerfully　upon　our　arrival　had　become
silent。　There　was　a　general　absence　of　the　feathered　tribe；　but
occasionally　a　considerable　number　of　hoopoes　and　jays　had　appeared　for
a　few　days；　and　had　again　departed；　as　though　changing　their　migrations；
and　resting　for　a　time　upon　the　cool　mountains。

I　frequently　rambled　among　the　highest　summits　with　my　dogs；　but　there
was　a　distressing　and　unaccountable　absence　of　game；　in　addition　to
which　there　was　no　scent；　as　the　barren　rocks　were　heated　in　the　sun
like　bricks　taken　from　the　kiln。　The　under…growth　up　to　4500　feet
afforded　both　food　and　covert　for　hares；　but　they　were　very　scarce。　A
peculiar　species　of　dwarf　prickly　broom　covers　the　ground　in　some
places；　and　the　young　shoots　are　eagerly　devoured　by　goats；　this　spreads
horizontally；　and　grows　in　such　dense　masses　about　one　foot　from　the
surface　that　it　will　support　the　weight　of　a　man。

When　grubbed　up　by　the　root　it　forms　an　impervious　mat　about　three　or
four　feet　in　diameter；　and　supplies　an　excellent　door　to　the　entrance　of
a　garden；　to　prevent　the　incursions　of　goats　or　fowls。　The　Berberris
grew　in　large　quantities；　which；　together　with　the　foliage　of　the　dwarf
ilex；　is　the　goat's　favourite　food。　Not　far　from　the　village　of
Prodomos；　upon　the　neighbouring　heights；　I　found；　for　the　first　time　in
Cyprus；　the　juniper；　which　appeared　to　be　kept　low　by　the　constant
grazing　of　the　numerous　herds。

The　walking　over　the　mountains　is　most　fatiguing；　and　utterly
destructive　to　boots；　owing　to　the　interminable　masses　of　sharp　rocks
and　stones　of　all　sizes；　which　quite　destroy　the　pleasure　of　a
lengthened　stroll。　The　views　from　the　various　elevated　ridges　are
exceedingly　beautiful；　and　exhibit　the　numerous　villages　surrounded　by
vineyards　snugly　clustered　in　obscure　dells　among　the　mountains　at　great
elevations　above　the　sea。　Prodomos　is　about　4300　feet　above　the　level；
and　can　be　easily　distinguished　by　the　foliage　of　numerous　spreading
walnut…trees　and　the　large　amount　of　cultivation　by　which　it　is
surrounded。

There　was　no　difficulty　in　gaining　the　highest　point　of　the　island　from
our　camp；　as　a　zigzag　rocky　path　led　to　the　top　of　a　ridge　about　600
feet　directly　above　the　monastery；　which　ascended　with　varying
inclinations　to　the　summit　of　Troodos；　about　2100　feet　above
Trooditissa；　by　the　maps　6590　feet　above　the　sea；　but　hardly　so　much　by
recent　measurement。

The　moufflon；　or　wild　sheep；　exists　in　Cyprus；　but　in　the　absence　of
protection　they　have　been　harassed　at　all　seasons　by　the　natives；　who
have　no　idea　of　sparing　animals　during　the　breeding　season。　The　present
government　have　protected　them　by　a　total　prohibition；　under　a　penalty
of　ten　pounds　to　be　inflicted　upon　any　person　discovered　in　killing
them。　In　the　absence　of　all　keepers　or　guardians　of　the　forests；　it
would　be　difficult　to　prove　a　case；　and　I　have　no　doubt　that　the　natives
still　attempt　the　sport；　although　from　the　extreme　wariness　of　the
animals　they　are　most　difficult　to　approach。　The　authorities　should
employ　some　dependable　sportsman　to　shoot　a　certain　number　of　rams　which
are　now　in　undue　proportion；　as　the　ewes　with　young　lambs　have　been　an
easier　prey　to　the　unsparing　Cypriotes。

Absurd　opinions　have　been　expressed　concerning　the　numbers　of　moufflon
now　remaining　upon　the　island；　and　it　would　be　quite　impossible　to
venture　upon　a　conjecture；　as　there　is　a　very　large　area　of　the
mountains　perfectly　wild　and　unoccupied　to　the　west　of　Kyka　monastery；
extending　to　Poli…ton…Khrysokus；　upon　which　the　animals　are　said　to　be
tolerably　numerous。　There　are　some　upon　the　Troodos　range；　but　from　all
accounts　they　do　not　exceed　fifteen