cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第6章

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the　first　to　perish；　although　in　a　damp　locality。

Salt　is　a　government　monopoly　in　Cyprus；　and　is　one　of　the　most
important　sources　of　revenue。　In　the　reign　of　the　Lusignan　dynasty；　and
from　a　much　earlier　date；　the　produce　of　the　salt　lakes　formed　one　of
the　chief　articles　of　export；　and　arrangements　were　made　for　regulating
the　amount　of　water　to　ensure　the　requisite　evaporation。　At　the　present
time　considerable　uncertainty　attends　the　collection　of　salt；　as　a
violent　rainfall　floods　the　lakes　and　weakens　the　solution。　There　can　be
no　doubt　that　a　few　years'　experience　and　attention　will　enable　the
authorities　to　improve　upon　the　present　arrangement；　and　that　not　only
will　the　annual　supply　be　assured；　but　the　foreign　demand　will　be
extended。

We　passed　the　valley　beyond　the　aqueduct　and；　ascending　the　steep
incline　upon　the　opposite　side；　followed　the　rutty　native　track　parallel
with　the　water…course；　we　halted　for　the　first　night　opposite　the
village　of　Cheflik　Pacha。　This　is　an　unhealthy　place；　as　it　lies　in　a
valley　where　a　mill　is　turned　by　a　stream　from　the　aqueduct　and　the
surplus　water　forms　a　marsh　after　irrigating　in　a　careless　manner　some
fields　and　gardens。　Lemon　and　orange…trees　of　the　largest　size　were
crowded　with　fruit；　and　exhibited　in　the　midst　of　a　treeless　and
desolate　country　the　great　necessity；　WATER；　and　the　productive　powers
of　the　soil　when　regularly　supplied。

I　was　careful　not　to　descend　into　the　irrigated　bottom；　therefore　we　had
halted　on　the　highest　point；　a　quarter　of　a　mile　distant。　It　is
impossible　to　be　too　careful　in　the　selection　of　a　camping…ground；　the
effect　of　fever…germs　may　be　the　result　of　one　night's　bivouac　in　an
unhealthy　locality；　and　a　new　country　is　frequently　stamped　as
pestilential　from　the　utter　carelessness　of　the　traveller　or　officer　in
command　of　troops。

As　a　general　rule　the　immediate　neighbourhood　of　water　should　be
avoided。　A　clear　stream　is　a　tempting　object；　and　the　difficulty　of
carrying　water　for　the　supply　of　troops　is　important；　but　it　is　less
than　the　necessity　of　carrying　the　sick。　If　once　the　fever　of　malaria
attacks　an　individual　he　becomes　unfitted　for　his　work；　the　blood　is
poisoned；　and　he　is　the　victim　of　renewed　attacks　which　baffle　medical
skill　and　lead　to　other　serious　complications。　Avoid　the　first　attack。
This　may　generally　be　effected　by　the　careful　selection　of　the
camping…ground。　Never　halt　in　a　bottom；　but　always　on　a　height。
Throughout　my　journey　in　Cyprus　neither　ourselves　nor　servants　suffered
from　any　ailment；　although　we　visited　every　portion　of　the　country；　and
I　attribute　this　immunity　from　fever　mainly　to　the　care　in　our　selection
of　halting…places。

The　first　necessity　in　the　evening　halt　was　fire。　This　is　one　of　the
troubles　of　central　Cyprusthere　is　no　fuel。　The　two　vans　and　the
native　cart　were　in　a　linethe　bell…tent　was　quickly　pitched　for　the
servants；　who　now　for　the　first　time　experienced　the　comfort　of　an
arrangement　I　had　made　when　in　England。　I　had　seven　deal　battens；　each
seven　feet　long；　four　inches　deep；　by　two　and　a　half　inches　broad。　These
were　laid　upon　the　ground　twelve　inches　apart；　seven　planks；　each　one
foot　wide；　were　placed　across　the　battens　to　form　an　impromptu　floor。
Upon　this　platform　was　laid　a　non…conductor　of　simply　doubled　hair…felt；
sewed　into　a　thin　mattress　of　light　canvas。　There　was　very　little
trouble　in　this　arrangement；　the　men　were　kept　well　off　the　ground；　and
the　hair…felt　not　only　preserved　their　bodily　heat　from　escaping；　but　it
prevented　the　damp　of　the　earth　from　ascending。　This　mattress　was　ten
feet　long；　therefore　it　could　be　rolled　up　to　form　a　bolster　at　one　end；
and；　during　a　hot　sun；　it　was　intended　for　a　cover　to　the　roof　of　the
gipsy　van。

The　first　day's　start　is　always　in　the　afternoon；　and　the　march　is
short。　We　had　only　made　three　miles；　and　it　was　nearly　dark　when　we
halted。　The　absence　of　fuel　necessitates　the　great　trouble　of　carrying　a
supply　of　charcoal；　and　it　destroys　the　pleasure　of　the　cheerful
night…fires　that　usually　enliven　the　bivouac　in　wild　countries。　The
plants　and　herbs　that　grow　in　Cyprus　are　all　prickly；　thus　groping　in
the　dark　for　the　first　inflammable　material　to　produce　the
fire…foundation　is　unpleasant。　There　is　a　highly　aromatic　but　very
prickly　species　of　wild　thyme：　this　is　always　sought　for；　and　at　all
times　responds　to　the　match。

The　first　night　is　always　novel；　in　spite　of　old　experiences。　We　pricked
our　hands　in　raking　up　thorny　plants；　but　a　useful　implement；　which
combined　the　broad　hoe　on　one　side　with　a　light　pick　on　the　other；
lessened　our　labour；　and　we　produced　a　blaze；　this　was　bright　but
transient；　as　the　fuel　was　unsubstantial。　The　dinner　was　quickly　warmed；
as　it　consisted　of　tins　of　preserved　meats；　and；　climbing　up　the　ladder；
the　gipsy　van　presented　such　a　picture　of　luxury　that　if　the　world　were
girded　by　a　good　road　instead　of　a　useless　equator　I　should　like　to　be
perpetually　circum…vanning　it。

On　the　following　morning　the　thermometer　marked　40　degrees。　The　natives
were　early　at　work；　ploughing　land　that　was　to　remain　fallow　until　the
following　season。　The　oxen　were　sleek　and　in　good　condition；　and　not
inferior　in　weight　to　the　well…known　red　animals　of　North　Devon。
Although　the　native　plough　is　of　the　unchanged　and　primitive　pattern
that　is　illustrated　on　the　walls　of　Egyptian　temples；　it　is　well　adapted
for　the　work　required　in　the　rough　and　stony　ground　of　Cyprus。　I　was
surprised　to　see　the　depth　which　these　exceedingly　light　implements
attained；　with　apparent　ease　to　the　pair　of　oxen；　this　was　not　less　than
eight　inches；　and　the　furrows　were　regular；　but　not　turned　completely
over。　The　ploughshare　is　not　adapted　for　cutting　the　roots　of　weeds　by
means　of　a　flat　surface　and　a　sharp　edge；　but　the　rounded　top　of　the
native　iron　passes　beneath　the　soil　and　breaks　it　up　like　the　wave
produced　by　the　ram…bow　of　a　vessel。　The　plough；　when　complete；　does　not
exceed　forty　pounds　in　weight；　and　it　is　conveniently　carried；　together
with　the　labourer；　upon　the　same　donkey；　when　travelling　from　a　distance
to　the　morning's　work。　European　settlers　in　Cyprus　should　be　cautious
before　superseding　the　native　plough　by　the　massive　European　pattern；
there　are　certain　soils　where　the　powerful　iron　plough；　or　even　the
double　implement；　might　be　worked　with　advantage；　but　as　a　general　rule
I　should　advise　an　agriculturist　to　wait　patiently　at　the　commencement
of　his　operations；　and　to　gain　practical　experience　of　the　country
before　he　expends　capital　in　the　purchase　of　European　inventions。　There
can　be　no　doubt　that　by　degrees　important　improvements　may　be　introduced
that　will　benefit　the　Cypriote　farmer；　although　it　will　be　long　before
his　primitive　method　will　be　abandoned。　The　great　difficulty　in　Cyprus
consists　in　reducing　the　soil　to　a　fine　surface；　huge　lumps　of　tenacious
earth　are　turned　up　by　the　plough；　which；　under　the　baking　influence　of
the　sun；　become　as　hard　as　sun…dried　bricks。　The　native　method　of
crushing　is　exceedingly　rude　and　ineffective。　A　heavy　plank　about
sixteen　feet　long　and　three　inches　thick；　furnished　with　two　rings；　is
dragged　by　oxen　over　the　surface；　which　generally　remains　in　so　rough　a
state　that　walking　over　the　field　is　most　laborious。　There　are　many
stone　columns　lying　useless　among　the　heaps　of　ruins　so　common　in
Cyprus；　that　would　form　excellent　rollers；　but　the　idea　of　such　an
implement　has　never　entered　the　Cypriote　head。　The　plough；
smoothing…plank；　and　the　ancient　threshing…harrow；　composed　of　two　broad
planks　inlaid　with　sharp　flint　stones；　are　the　only　farm　machinery　of
the　cultivator。　As　in　the　days　of　Abraham　the　oxen　drew　this　same
pattern　of　harrow　over　the　corn；　and　reduced　the　straw　to　a　coarse　chaff
mingled　with　the　grain；　so　also　the　treatment　in　Cyprus　remains　to　the
present　day。　The　result　is　a　mixture　of　dirt　and　sand　which　is　only
partially　rejected　by　the　equally　primitive　method　of　winnowing。

Mr。　Hamilton　Lang　gives　an　amusing　description　of　the　strictly
conservative　principles　of　the　Cyprian　oxen；　which　have　always　been　fed
upon　the　straw　broken　by　the　process　described　in　threshing　by　the
harrow　of　sharp　flints。　This　coarse　chaff；　mixed　with　cotton…seed；
lentils；　or　barley；　is　eaten　by　all　animals　with　avidity；　and　the
bullocks　positively　refused　Mr。　Lang's　new　food；　which　was　the　same
straw　passed　through　an　English　threshing…machine　and　cut　fine　by　a
modern　chaff…cutter。　This　fact　is　a　warning　to　those　who　would　introduce
too　sudden　reforms　among　men　and　animals　in　a　newly…acquired　country；
but　if　Mr。　Hamilton　Lang　had　sprinkled　salt　over　his　chaff　I　think　the
refractory　appetites　of　the　oxen　might　have　been　overcome。　A　pair　of
oxen　are　supposed　to　plough　one　〃donum〃　daily　of　fifty　paces　square；　or
about　half　an　acre。

Having　watched　the　various　teams；　and　conversed　with　the　ploughmen　by
the　medium　of　the　cook　Christo；　who　spoke　English　and　was　an　intelligent
interpreter；　I　ordered　the　vans　to　move　on　while　I　walked　over　the
country　with　the　dogs。　There　was　no　game　except　a　wild…duck　which　I　shot
in　the　thick　weeds　of　a　neighbouring　swamp。　Larks　were　in　great
quantities；　and　for　want　of　larger　birds　I　shot　enough　for　a　pilaff；　and
secured　a　breakfast。　The　route；　which　could　be　hardly　called　a　road；　had
been　worn　by　the　wheels　of　native　carts。　These　were　narrower　than　our
vans；　and　one　of　our　wheels　was　generally　upon　a　higher　level；
threatening　on　some　occasions　to　overturn。　The　country　around　us　was
desolate　in　its　aridity。　We　passed　through　the　ruins　of　an　ancient　city
over　which　the　plough　had　triumphed；　and　literally　not　one　stone　was
left　upon　another。　A　few　stone　columns　of　a　rough　description；　some　of
which　were　broken；　were　lying　in　various　directions；　and　I　noticed　a
lower　millstone　formed　of　an　exceedingly　hard　conglomerate　rock；　these
pieces　were　too　heavy　to　move　without　great　exertions；　therefore　they
had　remained　in　situ。

After　a　short　march　of　three　miles　we　arrived　at　the　steep　banks　of　the
river　a　mile　above　the　village　of　Arpera。　The　bed　of　this　river　was
about　forty　feet　below　the　level　of　the　country；　and　here　our　first　real
difficulty　commenced　in　descending　a　rugged　and　precipitous　track；　which
at　first　sight　appeared　destructive　to　any　springs。　The　gipsy…van　was
conducted　by　the　owner　of　the　fine　pair　of　bullocks；　but　this　fellow
（Theodoris）　was　an　obstinate　and　utterly　reckless　character；　and　instead
of　obeying　orders　to　go　steadily　with　the　drag　on　the　wheels；　he　put　his
animals　into　a　gallop　down　the　steep　descent；　with　the　intention　of
gaining　sufficient　momentum　to　cross　the　sandy　bottom　and　to　ascend　the
other　side。　If　the　original　gipsy　proprietor　could　have　seen　his　van
leaping　and　tossing　like　a　ship　in　a　heavy　sea；　with　the　frantic　driver
shouting　and　yelling　at　his　bullocks　while　he　accelerated　their　gallop
by　a　sharp　application　of　the　needle…pointed　driving　prick；　he　would
have　considered　it　the　last　moment　of　his　movable　home。　I　did　the　same；
but；　to　my　astonishment；　the　vehicle；　after　bounding　madly　about；　simply
turned　the　insane　driver　head　over　heels　into　the　river's　bed；　and　the
bullocks　f