cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第7章

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but；　to　my　astonishment；　the　vehicle；　after　bounding　madly　about；　simply
turned　the　insane　driver　head　over　heels　into　the　river's　bed；　and　the
bullocks　found　themselves　anchored　in　the　sand　on　the　opposite　side。
Glover　Brothers'　blue　van　was　driven　by　a　fine　fellow；　Georgi；　who　was
of　a　steady　disposition；　and　this　very　handy　and　well　constructed
carriage　made　nothing　of　the　difficulty。　Georgi　was　a　handsome　and
exceedingly　powerful　man；　upwards　of　six　feet　high；　of　a　most　amiable
disposition；　who　always　tried　to　do　his　best；　but　the　truth　must　be
told；　he　was　stupid：　he　became　a　slave　to　the　superior　intellect　of　the
bare…brained　rascal　of　the　gipsy…van。　Why　amiable　people　should　so
frequently　be　stupid　I　cannot　conceive：　perhaps　a　few　are　sharp；　but
Georgi；　poor　fellow；　had　all　in　bone　and　muscle；　and　not　in　brain。

There　is　great　advantage　in　travelling　with　more　than　one　vehicle；　as　in
any　difficulty　the　numerous　animals　can　be　harnessed　together　and　their
combined　power　will　drag　a　single　cart　or　carriage　through　any　obstacle。
Thus　one　by　one　the　vans　were　tugged　up　the　steep　bank　on　the　opposite
side；　and　after　a　drag　across　ploughed　fields　for　nearly　a　mile　we
halted　on　the　edge　of　a　cliff　and　camped　exactly　above　the　river。
Although　the　bed　was　dry　below　this　point；　we　found　a　faint　stream　of
clear　water　above　our　position；　which　was　subsequently　absorbed　by　the
sand。　The　cliffs　were　not　perpendicular；　but　were　broken　into　steep
declivities　from　successive　landslips：　the　sides　were　covered　with　the
usual　prickly　plants；　but　the　edges　of　the　stream　were　thickly　bushed
with　oleanders　which　afforded　excellent　covert　for　game。

In　travelling　through　Cyprus　there　is　a　depressing　aspect　in　the　general
decay　and　ruin　of　former　works。　I　strolled　with　my　dogs　for　some　miles
along　the　river　banks；　and　examined　the　strong　masonry　remains　of　many
old　water…mills。　I　found　a　well…constructed　aqueduct　of　wonderfully　hard
cement　at　the　bottom　of　a　cliff　close　to　the　present　bed　of　the　river：
this　must　at　a　former　period　have　passed　below　the　bed；　and　the
deepening　of　the　stream　has　exposed　and　washed　away　the　ancient　work。
There　was　no　game　beyond　a　few　wild　red…legged　partridges；　although　the
appearance　of　the　country　had　raised　my　expectations。

On　the　following　morning　I　rambled　with　the　dogs　for　many　hours　over　the
range　of　hills　which　bounds　the　plain　upon　the　north；　and　from　which　the
river　issues。　These　are　completely　denuded　of　soil；　and　present　a
glaring　surface　of　hardened　chalk；　in　the　crevices　of　which　the　usual
prickly　plants　can　alone　exist。　Some　of　the　hill…tops　exposed　a　smooth
natural　pavement　where　the　rain　had　washed　away　all　soluble　portions　and
left　the　bare　foundation　cracked　in　small　divisions　as　though
artificially　inlaid。　Now　and　then　a　wretched　specimen　of　the　Pinus
Maritima；　about　six　feet　high；　was　to　be　seen　vainly　endeavouring　to
find　nourishment　in　the　clefts　of　the　barren　rocks。　I　do　not　believe　the
tales　of　forests　having　formerly　existed　upon　the　greater　portion　of
Cyprus：　it　would　certainly　be　impossible　for　any　species　of　tree　to
thrive　upon　the　extensive　range　of　hills　near　Arpera；　which　are
absolutely　valueless。

In　many　places　the　surface　glistened　with　ice…like　sheets　of　gypsum；
which　cropped　out　of　the　cold　white　marls　and　produced　a　wintry
appearance　that　increased　the　desolation。　I　walked　for　some　hours　over
successive　ranges　of　the　same　hopeless　character。　Great　numbers　of　hawks
and　several　varieties　of　eagles　were　hunting　above　the　hill…tops；　and
sufficiently　explained　the　scarcity　of　game。　The　red…legged　partridges
found　little　protection　in　the　scant　cover　afforded　by　the　withered
plants；　and　I　saw　one　captured　and　carried　off　by　an　eagle；　who　was
immediately　chased　by　two　others　of　the　same　species；　in　the　vain　hope
that　he　would　give　up　his　prize；　he　soared　high　in　air　with　the
partridge　hanging　from　his　claws。　On　the　same　day　I　saw　another　capture；
and　there　can　be　little　doubt　that　the　partridge　forms　the　usual　food　of
these　large　birds　of　prey。　The　British　government　has　already　protected
the　game　by　establishing　a　close　season　and　by　a　tax　upon　all　guns；　but
there　will　be　little　benefit　from　the　new　law　unless　a　reward　shall　be
offered　for　the　destruction　of　the　birds　of　prey　which　swarm　in　every
portion　of　the　islandeagles；　falcons；　kites；　hawks；　ravens；　crows；　and
last；　but　in　cunning　and　destructive　propensity　not　the　least；　the
〃magpies。〃　These　birds　exist　in　such　numbers　that　unless　steps　are　taken
to　destroy　them　it　will　be　hopeless　to　expect　any　increase　of　game。　When
a　magpie　wakes　in　the　early　morning　his　first　thought　is　mischief；　and
during　the　breeding　season　there　is　no　bird　who　makes　egg…hunting　so
especially　his　occupation。　Upon　the　treeless　plains　of　Cyprus　every　nest
is　at　his　mercy。

From　the　base　of　the　barren　hill…range　a　fertile　plain　slopes　towards
the　sea　for　a　width　of　about　four　miles；　having　received　the　soil　that
has　been　washed　from　the　denuded　heights。　This　rich　surface　is
cultivated　with　cereals；　but　there　are　considerable　portions　which　are
covered　with　a　dense　mass　of　thistles；　as　the　land　is　allowed　to　rest
for　a　couple　of　years　after　having　been　exhausted　by　several　crops
without　manuring。　On　the　lowlands　of　Cyprus　nearly　every　plant　or　bush
is　armed　with　thorns。　I　have　generally　observed　that　a　thorny　vegetation
is　a　proof　of　a　burning　climate　with　a　slight　rainfall。　In　the　scorching
districts　of　the　Soudan　there　is　hardly　a　tree　without　thorns　to　the
tenth　degree　of　north　latitude；　at　which　limit　the　rainfall　is　great　and
the　vegetation　changes　its　character。　The　Cypriotes　of　both　sexes　wear
high　boots　to　the　knees　as　a　protection　from　the　countless　thistles；　and
not　as　an　armour　against　snakes；　as　some　writers　have　assumed。　These
boots　are　peculiar　in　their　construction；　the　soles　are　about　an　inch　in
thickness；　formed　of　several　layers　of　leather；　which　are　fastened
together　by　large…headed　nails　from　beneath；　these　are　directed　in　an
oblique　line；　so　as　to　pass　through　the　edge　of　the　upper　leather　and
secure　it　to　the　sole　exactly　as　the　shoe　of　a　horse　is　fitted　to　the
hoof。　The　nails　are　long　and　thin；　and　are　riveted　by　turning　the　points
round　and　hammering　them　like　a　coil　upon　the　leather；　the　heads　of
these　nails　are　nearly　as　large　as　a　shilling；　and　the　boots　are
exceedingly　clumsy；　but　they　increase　the　height　of　the　wearer　by　a　full
inch。

My　amiable　driver　of　the　blue　van；　Georgi；　accompanied　me　in　my　walk；
and　fired　several　useless　shots　at　wild　partridges。　We　now　arrived　at
the　spot　where　the　water　is　led　by　a　subterranean　aqueduct　to　Larnaca。
This　principle　is　so　original；　and　has　from　such　remote　times　been
adopted　in　this　arid　island；　that　it　merits　a　detailed　description。　The
ancient　vestiges　of　similar　works　in　every　portion　of　Cyprus　prove　that
in　all　ages　the　rainfall　must　have　been　uncertain；　and　that　no　important
change　has　taken　place　in　the　meteorological　condition　of　the　country。

In　a　search　for　water…springs　the　Cypriote　is　most　intelligent；　and　the
talent　appears　to　be　hereditary。　If　a　well　is　successful　at　an　elevation
that　will　enable　the　water　to　command　lower　levels　at　a　distance；　it　may
be　easily　understood　that　the　supply　of　one　well　representing　a　unit
must　be　limited。　The　Cypriote　well…sinker　works　upon　a　principle　of
simple　multiplication。　If　one　well　produces　a　certain　flow；　ten　wells
will　multiply　the　volume；　if　connected　by　a　subterranean　tunnel；　and
provided　the　supply　of　water　in　the　spring　is　unlimited。

It　appears　that　Cyprus　exhibits　an　anomaly　in　the　peculiarity　of　a　small
rainfall　but　great　subterranean　water…power；　some　stratum　that　is
impervious　retains　the　water　at　depths　varying　according　to　local
conditions。　The　well…sinker　commences　by　boring；　or　rather　digging；　a
circular　hole　two　feet　six　inches　in　diameter。　The　soil　of　Cyprus　is　so
tenacious　that　the　walls　of　the　shaft　require　no　artificial　support；
this　much　facilitates　the　work；　and　the　labourer；　armed　with　a　very
short…handled　pick；　patiently　hacks　his　vertical　way；　and　sends　up　the
earth　by　means　of　a　basket　and　rope；　drawn　by　a　primitive　but　effective
windlass　above；　formed　of　a　cradle　of　horizontal　wooden　bars。　The　man　in
charge　simply　turns　the　windlass　without　a　handle；　by　clutching　each
successive　bar；　which；　acting　as　a　revolving　lever；　winds　up　the　rope
with　the　weight　attached。

The　rapidity　of　the　well…sinking　naturally　depends　upon　the　quality　of
the　soil；　if　rock　is　to　be　cut　through；　it　is　worked　with　a　mason's　axe
and　the　cold　chisel。　Fortunately　the　geological　formation　is　principally
sedimentary　limestone；　which　offers　no　great　resistance。　At　length　the
water　is　reached。　The　well　is　now　left　open　for　a　few　days　that　an
opinion　may　be　formed　of　the　power；　if　favourable；　another　precisely
similar　well　is　sunk　at　a　distance　of　fifteen　or　sixteen　yards　in　the
direction　towards　the　point　required　by　the　future　aqueduct。　The　spring
being　satisfactory；　the　work　proceeds　with　vigour。　We　will　accept　the
first　well　as　forty　feet　in　depth；　if　the　surface　of　the　earth　were　an
exact　level；　the　next　well　would　be　an　equal　depth；　but　as　the　water
retains　its　natural　level；　the　vertical　measurement　of　each　shaft　will
depend　upon　the　formation　of　the　upper　ground。　The　object　of　the
well…sinker　is　to　create　a　chain　of　wells　united　by　a　subterranean
tunnel；　in　order　to　multiply　the　power　of　a　unit　and　to　obtain　the
entire　supply　of　water；　he　therefore　sinks　perhaps　ten　or　twenty　wells
to　the　same　level；　and　he　cuts　a　narrow　tunnel　from　one　to　the　other；
thus　connecting　his　shafts　at　the　water…line；　so　as　to　form　a　canal　or
aqueduct。　Precisely　as　the　mole　upheaves　at　certain　intervals　the　earth
that　it　has　scraped　from　its　gallery；　the　well…sinker　clears　his　tunnel
by　sending　up　the　contents　through　the　vertical　shafts　fifteen　yards
apart；　around　the　mouth　of　which　a　funnel…shaped　mound　is　formed　by　the
debris。

These　preliminary　walls　being　completed　and　the　water…volume　tested；　the
neighbourhood　is　examined　with　the　hope　of　discovering　other　springs
that　may　upon　the　same　principle　be　conducted　towards　the　main　line　of
the　proposed　aqueduct。　It　is　not　uncommon　to　find　several　chains　of
wells　converging　from　different　localities　to　the　desired　water…head；
and　as　these　are　at　higher　levels；　a　considerable　hydraulic　power　is
obtained；　sufficient　in　many　instances　not　only　to　fill　the　tunnels；　but
to　force　the　water　to　a　greater　elevation　if　required。

The　water…head　being　thoroughly　established；　the　sinking　of　a　chain　of
wells　proceeds；　and　the　tunnels　are　arranged　at　a　given　inclination　to
conduct　the　water　to　the　destined　spot。　This　may　be　many　miles　distant；
necessitating　many　hundred　wells；　which　may　comprise　great　superficial
changes；　hills　that　are　bored　through　necessitate　deep　shafts；　and
valleys　must　be　spanned　by　aqueducts　of　masonry。　In　this　manner　the
water　is　conducted　from　the　springs　of　Arpera　near　the　spot　where　the
river　issues　from　the　narrow　valley　among　the　hills；　and　supplies
Larnaca；　about　eight　miles　distant　from　the　first　head。　The　British
authorities　propose　to