cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第71章

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and　England；　who　has　been　thwarted　by　the　Power　she　has　endeavoured　to
save；　will；　by　the　terms　of　the　Convention；　be　compelled　to　appear　in
arms　as　the　defender　of　the　remnant　of　the　Turkish　Empire。

Common　sense　would　suggest　the　absolute　necessity　of　special　and　clearly
defined　conditions　in　concluding　an　alliance　with　Turkey　which　may　at
any　moment　demand　our　military　interference。　If　we　are　bound　to　assist
by　force　of　arms　in　the　defence　of　Asia　Minor；　it　is　equally　necessary
that　Turkey　should　be　bound　to　qualify　herself　for　resistance　to　an
attack　from　Russia。　It　should　have　been　distinctly　agreed　that　Turkey
should　raise　a　territorial　army　of　an　estimated　strength　for　the
protection　of　Asia　Minor；　and　that　a　certain　number　of　British　officers
should　hold　important　commands；　to　ensure　the　regular　payment　of　the
troops　and　to　maintain　the　necessary　discipline。　Had　such　conditions
been　defined；　and　the　civil　courts　been　placed　under　the　supervision　of
British　officials；　the　Protectorate　of　Asia　Minor　would　have　become　a
practical　combination　that　would　have　been　an　effectual　check　to　Russian
encroachments；　but　as　the　affair　now　stands；　the　alliance　is　fraught
with　extreme　danger　to　ourselves。　I　cannot　conceive　the　possibility　of　a
credulity　that　would　induce　experienced　statesmen　to　believe　in　the
assurances　given　either　by　Turkey　or　by　Russia。　The　history　of　the　past
is　sufficient　to　prove　the　utter　fallacy　of　assertions；　promises；　and
treaties；　Turkey　will　persist　in　mal…administration；　Russia；　who　is　now
marching　upon　Merv　in　spite　of　former　assurances；　as　she　advanced　on
Khiva　under　similar　pretexts；　will　at　the　moment　of　her　own　selection
assuredly　break　through　her　boundaries　in　Asia　Minor。　The　position　of
England　will　be　contemptible。　We　have　thrown　down　the　gauntlet　to　Russia
by　an　ostentatious　alliance　with　Turkey；　but　we　hesitate　to　insist　upon
the　overwhelming　necessity　of　British　official　and　military　officers
to　organise　the　civil　administration　and　an　army　of　defence；　thus；　when
the　sudden　emergency　shall　arise；　Turkey　will　be　totally　unprepared；　the
various　races　that　comprise　her　Asiatic　dominions　will　already　have　been
poisoned　by　intrigue；　and　the　only　defence　that　can　be　offered　to　a
Russian　advance　will　be　afforded　by　Turkish　neglect；　which　has　left　the
country　devoid　of　roads。

Under　these　inevitable　circumstances；　England　will　probably　accuse
Turkey　of　neglecting　to　fulfil　the　conditions　of　the　defensive　alliance；
and　the　〃back…door〃　will　offer　a　convenient　exit　from　the　difficulty；
in　which　case；　Turkey　will　be　compelled　to　make　terms　with　Russia　that
will　probably　terminate　in　a　Russo…Turkish　alliance　AGAINST　England；　who
will　be　accused　of　having　treacherously　deserted　her　after　breaking　a
solemn　engagementand　obtaining　Cyprus。

This　may　be　a　gloomy　prospect；　but　it　is　not　one　shade　darker　than　the
reality　of　the　position；　unless　the　Porte　will　sanction　the　assistance
of　a　British　administration　that　would　entirely　change　the　political
aspect。　A　reform　of　administration　in　Asia　Minor　to　be　effective；　should
be　based　upon　the　judicial　system　pursued　by　the　English　in　the　courts
of　Cypruswhere　the　Turkish　laws　remain　undisturbed；　but　they　are
administered　under　the　supervision　of　specially　appointed　officers。　For
the　most　part　Turkish　laws　are　based　upon　pure　equity；　and　leave　little
to　be　desired　beyond　their　faithful　execution。　The　oppression　and
extortion　prevalent　throughout　the　Turkish　dominions　are　directly
contrary　to　the　laws；　and　are　the　result　of　personal　tyranny　on　the　part
of　the　authorities。

In　the　event　of　a　rupture　with　our　ally　that　would　result　in　a
Russo…Turkish　combination；　Cyprus　would　exhibit　its　importance　as　a
strategical　position　that　would　entirely　command　the　coasts　of　Syria　and
the　approach　to　Egypt。　As　I　have　already　stated；　the　value　of　the　island
is　conditional　upon　the　permanence　of　the　Turkish　alliance；　should
Turkey　and　England　remain　friends　and　allies；　Cyprus　is　quite
unnecessary　as　a　British　military　station；　but　our　possession　will
probably　ENTAIL　THE　ABSOLUTE　NECESSITY　OF　TURKISH　GOOD　FAITH；　as　the
restored　arsenal　and　harbour　of　Famagousta　would　complete　a　position
that　would　dominate　the　whole　of　the　Turkish　shores　upon　the
Mediterranean；　and　in　conjunction　with　Greece；　which　would　assure　the
refuge　of　Corfu　to　our　fleets；　the　naval　power　of　Great　Britain　would　be
absolute　to　the　east　of　Gibraltar。



CHAPTER　XX。

CONCLUSION。

TROODITISSA　MONASTERY；　CYPRUS。

It　is　the　22nd　August；　and　the　manuscript　of　〃Cyprus　as　I　saw　it　in
1879〃　has　already　been　forwarded　to　England。　In　another　month　we　shall
be　en　route　for　the　Euphrates　via　Alexandretta；　and　through　Bagdad　to
India　by　the　Persian　Gulf。　I　shall　therefore　be　placed　at　the　serious
disadvantage　of　an　exclusion　from　the　proofs；　which　may　require
alterations　and　corrections；　this　will　I　trust　excuse　me　should　any
repetitions　be　apparent　that　would　otherwise　have　been　detected　before
publication。　There　is　little　to　add　to　the　description　I　have　given　that
would　be　of　public　interest；　therefore　the　few　additional　details　are
consigned　to　a　short　Appendix。

The　seclusion　of　the　monastery　has　been　an　agreeable　interval　that　has
formed　a　moral　harbour　from　the　uncertain　seas　of　busy　life；　and　we
shall　leave　the　quiet　spot　and　the　good　old　monks　with　some　regret。　A
great　change　has　been　effected　since　our　arrival　in　early　May。　The　heaps
of　filth　have　given　place　to　extreme　cleanliness；　the　monks　wash　their
hands　and　faces；　even　the　monastery　yard　is　swept。　No　atom　of　impurity
is　allowed　to　deface　the　walk　from　the　cold　spring　to　the　great
walnut…tree。　My　little　garden　has　flourished　and　produced　largely；　the
melons　were　of　excellent　flavour；　the　tomatoes　and　other　vegetables　were
good；　including　a　species　of　esculent　amaranthus　which　is　a　substitute
for　spinach。　I　employed　a　man　and　his　son　to　open　the　path　for　2。75
miles；　from　the　monastery　to　the　military　route　to　Troodos；　which　much
improved　the　communication；　and　somewhat　relieved　our　solitude　by
increasing　the　visits　of　our　friends。　If　any　stranger　should　now　arrive
from　England　at　Trooditissa　he　would　appreciate　the　calm　and　cool　asylum
contrasting　with　the　heat　of　the　lower　country；　but　should　he　arrive
even　one　short　month　after　our　departure；　I　fear　the　picture　will　have
changed。　Throngs　of　mules　will　have　defiled　our　clean　courtyard；　and
will　be　stabled　within　our　shady　retreat　beneath　the　walnut…tree；　which
will　remain　unswept。　The　filthy　habits　of　the　people；　now　restrained
only　by　strong　remonstrance；　will　be　too　apparent。　The　old　monks；
Neophitos　and　Woomonos；　（who　are　dear　old　people　when　clean）　will　cease
to　wash；　and　the　place　and　people　will　certainly　relapse　into　the
primeval　state　of　dirt　and　holiness　in　which　we　first　discovered　it。

We　leave　in　friendship　with　all；　and　during　our　sojourn　at　Trooditissa
of　more　than　three　months；　no　quarrels；　or　even　trifling　disagreements；
have　occurred　between　the　servants　or　the　people。　The　temporary　storm
occasioned　by　the　abrupt　departure　of　Christina　was　quickly　lulled　by
the　arrival　of　the　middle…aged…maid　of　all　work　of　seventy…five；　who
has　performed　all　her　arduous　duties　with　admirable　patience。　Our　own
servants　have　been　most　satisfactory　since　their　first　engagement　upon
our　arrival　in　Cyprus　in　January　last；　Georgi　the　〃prodigal　son；〃　has
been　of　much　service　as　interpreter；　and　is　an　honest　and　willing　young
man；　but　there　is　a　peculiarity　in　his　physical　constitution　exhibited
in　the　mutual　want　of　attachment　between　his　person　and　his　buttons。
These　small　but　necessary　friends　continually　desert　him；　and　his　shoes
appear　to　walk　a　few　inches　faster　than　his　feet；　leaving　him　in　a
chronic　state　of　down…at…heel。　Collars　will　not　assimilate　with　his
neck；　whether　they　are　tied　with　strings；　or　fastened　with　buttons；　the
result　is　the　same；　and　Georgi's　exterior　when　all　or　three　parts　of　his
buttons　have　deserted　him；　exhibits　a　looseness　which　I　am　glad　to　say
by　no　means　applies　to　his　character。　The　cook　Christo　is　an　excellent
fellow；　always　willing　to　please；　and　good　in　his　profession；　added　to
which；　he　assumes　a　demeanour　of　importance　which　is　irresistible；　and
makes　all　paths　smooth。　My　Abyssinian；　Amarn；　is　always　the　same　quiet；
steady　character；　who　performs　his　daily　work　with　the　calm　regularity
of　the　stream　that　turns　a　mill…wheel；　and　can　always　be　depended　on。　It
is　a　pleasure　to　me　that　our　party　does　not　dissolve　upon　leaving
Cyprus；　but　the　servants　accompany　us　on　the　Asiatic　shore。

　　　In　conclusion；　I　must　acknowledge　with　due　thanks　the　valuable
　　　assistance　that　I　have　received　in　statistical　information　afforded　by
　　　the　kindness　of　the　High　Commissioner；　His　Excellency　General　Biddulph；
　　　R。　A；　C。　B。；　and　the　various　chief　commissioners　of　districts；　including
　　　Lieutenant…Colonel　White；　First　Royal　Scots；　of　Lefkosia；
　　　Lieutenant…Colonel　Warren；　R。　A。；　of　Limasol　（now　promoted　to　Chief　of
　　　the　Staff）；　Claude　Delaval　Cobham；　Esq。；　M。　A。；　of　Larnaca；　Captain
　　　Inglis；　of　Famagousta；　and　Captain　A。　Wauchope；　42nd　Highlanders；　of
　　　Baffo。

In　taking　leave　of　Cyprus　I　must　express　my　share　in　the　general　regret
at　the　departure　of　Sir　Garnet　and　Lady　Wolseley；　from　whom　we　received
much　kindness。　His　successor；　General　Biddulph；　R。　A。；　is　well　known　as
a　most　able　and　painstaking　officer；　who　is　admirably　suited　for　the
responsible　position　he　now　occupies；　but　all　will　remember　with　due
appreciation　the　vigorous　administration　of　Sir　Garnet　Wolseley；　who　was
selected　for　the　command　of　Cyprus　in　the　difficult　period　of　the　first
British　occupation。



THE　END。

APPENDIX。

METEOROLOGICAL　REGISTER　THROUGHOUT　JOURNEYS　IN　CYPRUS。

FROM　1ST　FEBRUARY　TO　21ST　AUGUST；　1879。

It　will　be　remarked　that　August　at　Trooditissa　is　considerably　lower　in
temperature　than　July。

The　following　data；　from　1st　to　17th　August；　kindly　supplied　me　by
Lieut。…Colonel　White；　Chief　Commissioner　of　Lefkosia；　will　exhibit　the
difference　between　that　station；　442　feet　above　the　sea　level；　and
Trooditissa　Monastery；　4；340　feet。



The　following　official　estimate　of　revenue　and　expenditure　must　be
accepted　as　only　approximate。　As　the　taxes　are　at　present　collected　by
dimes；　or　tenths；　the　amount　must　depend　upon　the　agricultural
prosperity　of　the　island；　which　is　liable　to　considerable　fluctuations；
and　during　the　present　year　of　semi…famine　will　result　in　a　serious
diminution。　There　will　probably　be　a　sensible　decrease　in　the　Customs
receipts；　as　the　import　of　European　goods　has　been　checked　by　the
collapse　of　many　European　traders　who　had　arrived　in　Cyprus　at　the　first
announcement　of　the　British　occupation；　and　discovered　that　their　goods
were　unsuited　to　the　requirements　of　the　extremely　poor　and　frugal
population。　The　greater　portion　of　the　English　traders　have　already
retired　from　the　island；　the　Greek　merchants　who　have　been　long
established　are　satisfied　with　small　profits；　and　their　expenses　are
upon　a　proportionate　scale；　which　renders　British　competition　quite
impossible。　The　Cypriotes　decline　to　purchase　from　the