Áéɽ---Ó¢ÎÄ°æ-µÚ2ÕÂ
°´¼üÅÌÉÏ·½Ïò¼ü ¡û »ò ¡ú ¿É¿ìËÙÉÏÏ·ҳ£¬°´¼üÅÌÉ쵀 Enter ¼ü¿É»Øµ½±¾ÊéĿ¼ҳ£¬°´¼üÅÌÉÏ·½Ïò¼ü ¡ü ¿É»Øµ½±¾Ò³¶¥²¿£¡
¡ª¡ª¡ª¡ªÎ´ÔĶÁÍꣿ¼ÓÈëÊéÇ©ÒѱãÏ´μÌÐøÔĶÁ£¡
ers¡£¡¡One¡¡for¡¡curing¡¡body¡¡odour¡¡catches¡¡your¡¡attention¡£¡¡This¡¡is¡¡not¡¡because¡¡you¡¯ve¡¡got¡¡body¡¡odour¡¡but¡¡because¡¡of¡¡the¡¡fancy¡¡language¡¡and¡¡the¡¡words¡¡in¡¡brackets¡¡after¡¡¡¨body¡¡odour¡¨¡£¡¡
¡¡¡¡Body¡¡odour¡¡£¨known¡¡also¡¡as¡¡scent¡¡of¡¡the¡¡immortals£©¡¡is¡¡a¡¡disgusting¡¡condition¡¡with¡¡an¡¡awful£»¡¡nauseating¡¡smell¡£¡¡It¡¡often¡¡affects¡¡social¡¡relationships¡¡and¡¡can¡¡delay¡¡life¡¯s¡¡major¡¡event£º¡¡marriage¡£¡¡It¡¡disadvantages¡¡young¡¡men¡¡and¡¡women¡¡at¡¡job¡¡interviews¡¡or¡¡when¡¡they¡¡try¡¡to¡¡enlist£»¡¡therefore¡¡inflicting¡¡much¡¡suffering¡¡and¡¡anguish¡£¡¡By¡¡using¡¡a¡¡new¡¡total¡¡treatment£»¡¡we¡¡can¡¡instantly¡¡eradicate¡¡the¡¡odour¡¡with¡¡a¡¡rate¡¡of¡¡up¡¡to¡¡97¡£53£¥¡¡success¡£¡¡For¡¡joy¡¡in¡¡life¡¡and¡¡future¡¡happiness£»¡¡we¡¡wele¡¡you¡¡to¡¡e¡¡and¡¡rid¡¡yourself¡¡of¡¡it¡¡¡¡¡
¡¡¡¡After¡¡that¡¡you¡¡e¡¡to¡¡a¡¡stone¡¡bridge£º¡¡no¡¡body¡¡odour¡¡here¡¡and¡¡there¡¯s¡¡a¡¡cool£»¡¡refreshing¡¡breeze¡£¡¡The¡¡bridge¡¡spanning¡¡the¡¡broad¡¡river¡¡has¡¡a¡¡bitumen¡¡surface¡¡but¡¡the¡¡carved¡¡monkeys¡¡on¡¡the¡¡worn¡¡stone¡¡posts¡¡testify¡¡to¡¡its¡¡long¡¡history¡£¡¡You¡¡lean¡¡on¡¡the¡¡concrete¡¡railing¡¡and¡¡survey¡¡the¡¡township¡¡alongside¡¡the¡¡bridge¡£¡¡On¡¡both¡¡banks£»¡¡black¡¡roof¡tops¡¡overlapping¡¡like¡¡fish¡scales¡¡stretch¡¡endlessly¡¡into¡¡the¡¡distance¡£¡¡The¡¡valley¡¡opens¡¡out¡¡between¡¡two¡¡mountains¡¡where¡¡the¡¡upper¡¡areas¡¡of¡¡gold¡¡paddy¡¡fields¡¡are¡¡inlaid¡¡with¡¡clusters¡¡of¡¡green¡¡bamboos¡£¡¡The¡¡river¡¡is¡¡blue¡¡and¡¡clear¡¡as¡¡it¡¡leisurely¡¡trickles¡¡over¡¡the¡¡sandy¡¡shores¡¡but¡¡close¡¡to¡¡the¡¡granite¡¡pylons¡¡dividing¡¡the¡¡current¡¡it¡¡bees¡¡inky¡¡green¡¡and¡¡deep¡£¡¡Just¡¡past¡¡the¡¡hump¡¡of¡¡the¡¡bridge¡¡the¡¡rushing¡¡water¡¡churns¡¡loudly¡¡and¡¡white¡¡foam¡¡surfaces¡¡from¡¡whirlpools¡£¡¡The¡¡ten¡metre¡¡high¡¡stone¡¡embankment¡¡is¡¡stained¡¡with¡¡water¡¡levels£º¡¡the¡¡new¡¡greyish¡yellow¡¡lines¡¡were¡¡probably¡¡left¡¡by¡¡the¡¡recent¡¡summer¡¡floods¡£¡¡Can¡¡this¡¡be¡¡the¡¡You¡¡River£¿¡¡And¡¡does¡¡it¡¡flow¡¡down¡¡from¡¡Lingshan£¿¡¡
¡¡¡¡The¡¡sun¡¡is¡¡about¡¡to¡¡set¡£¡¡The¡¡bright¡¡orange¡¡disc¡¡is¡¡infused¡¡with¡¡light¡¡but¡¡there¡¯s¡¡no¡¡glare¡£¡¡You¡¡gaze¡¡into¡¡the¡¡distance¡¡at¡¡the¡¡hazy¡¡layers¡¡of¡¡jagged¡¡peaks¡¡where¡¡the¡¡two¡¡sides¡¡of¡¡the¡¡valley¡¡join¡£¡¡This¡¡ominous¡¡black¡¡image¡¡nibbles¡¡at¡¡the¡¡lower¡¡edges¡¡of¡¡the¡¡glowing¡¡sun¡¡which¡¡seems¡¡to¡¡be¡¡revolving¡£¡¡The¡¡sun¡¡turns¡¡a¡¡dark¡¡red£»¡¡gentler£»¡¡and¡¡projects¡¡brilliant¡¡gold¡¡reflections¡¡onto¡¡the¡¡entire¡¡bend¡¡of¡¡the¡¡river£º¡¡the¡¡dark¡¡blue¡¡of¡¡the¡¡water¡¡fusing¡¡with¡¡the¡¡dazzling¡¡sunlight¡¡throbs¡¡and¡¡pulsates¡£¡¡As¡¡the¡¡red¡¡disc¡¡seats¡¡itself¡¡in¡¡the¡¡valley¡¡it¡¡bees¡¡serene£»¡¡awesomely¡¡beautiful£»¡¡and¡¡there¡¡are¡¡sounds¡£¡¡You¡¡hear¡¡sounds£»¡¡elusive£»¡¡distinctly¡¡reverberating¡¡from¡¡deep¡¡in¡¡your¡¡heart¡¡and¡¡radiating¡¡outwards¡¡until¡¡the¡¡sun¡¡seems¡¡to¡¡prop¡¡itself¡¡up¡¡on¡¡its¡¡toes£»¡¡stumble£»¡¡then¡¡sink¡¡into¡¡the¡¡black¡¡shadows¡¡of¡¡the¡¡mountains£»¡¡scattering¡¡glowing¡¡colours¡¡throughout¡¡the¡¡sky¡£¡¡An¡¡evening¡¡wind¡¡blows¡¡noisily¡¡by¡¡your¡¡ears¡¡and¡¡cars¡¡drive¡¡past£»¡¡as¡¡usual¡¡sounding¡¡their¡¡deafening¡¡horns¡£¡¡You¡¡cross¡¡the¡¡bridge¡¡and¡¡see¡¡there¡¡a¡¡new¡¡stone¡¡with¡¡engraved¡¡characters¡¡painted¡¡in¡¡red£º¡¡¡¨Yongning¡¡Bridge¡£¡¡Built¡¡in¡¡the¡¡third¡¡year¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Kaiyuan¡¡reign¡¡period¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Song¡¡Dynasty¡¡and¡¡repaired¡¡in¡¡1962¡£¡¡This¡¡stone¡¡was¡¡laid¡¡in¡¡1983¡£¡¨¡¡It¡¡no¡¡doubt¡¡marks¡¡the¡¡beginning¡¡of¡¡the¡¡tourist¡¡industry¡¡here¡£¡¡
¡¡¡¡Two¡¡food¡¡stalls¡¡stand¡¡at¡¡the¡¡end¡¡of¡¡the¡¡bridge¡£¡¡In¡¡the¡¡one¡¡on¡¡the¡¡left¡¡you¡¡eat¡¡a¡¡bowl¡¡of¡¡beancurd£»¡¡the¡¡smooth¡¡and¡¡tasty¡¡kind¡¡with¡¡all¡¡the¡¡right¡¡ingredients¡£¡¡Hawkers¡¡used¡¡to¡¡sell¡¡it¡¡in¡¡the¡¡streets¡¡and¡¡lanes£»¡¡it¡¡pletely¡¡disappeared¡¡some¡¡time¡¡ago¡¡but¡¡has¡¡now¡¡revived¡¡as¡¡family¡¡enterprises¡£¡¡In¡¡the¡¡stall¡¡on¡¡the¡¡right¡¡you¡¡eat¡¡two¡¡delicious¡¡sesame¡coated¡¡shallot¡¡pancakes£»¡¡straight¡¡off¡¡the¡¡stove¡¡and¡¡piping¡hot¡£¡¡Then¡¡at¡¡one¡¡of¡¡the¡¡stalls£»¡¡you¡¡can¡¯t¡¡remember¡¡which¡¡one£»¡¡you¡¡eat¡¡a¡¡bowl¡¡of¡¡sweet¡¡yuanxiao¡¡dumplings¡¡broiled¡¡in¡¡rice¡¡wine£º¡¡they¡¡are¡¡the¡¡size¡¡of¡¡large¡¡pearls¡£¡¡Of¡¡course£»¡¡you¡¯re¡¡not¡¡as¡¡academic¡¡about¡¡food¡¡as¡¡Mr¡¡Ma¡¡the¡¡Second¡¡who¡¡toured¡¡West¡¡Lake¡¡but¡¡you¡¡do¡¡have¡¡a¡¡hefty¡¡appetite¡£¡¡You¡¡savour¡¡this¡¡food¡¡of¡¡your¡¡ancestors¡¡and¡¡listen¡¡to¡¡customers¡¡chatting¡¡with¡¡the¡¡proprietors¡£¡¡They¡¯re¡¡mostly¡¡locals¡¡and¡¡all¡¡know¡¡one¡¡another¡£¡¡You¡¡try¡¡using¡¡the¡¡mellifluous¡¡local¡¡accent¡¡to¡¡be¡¡friendly£»¡¡you¡¡want¡¡to¡¡be¡¡one¡¡of¡¡them¡£¡¡You¡¯ve¡¡lived¡¡in¡¡the¡¡city¡¡for¡¡a¡¡long¡¡time¡¡and¡¡need¡¡to¡¡feel¡¡that¡¡you¡¡have¡¡a¡¡hometown¡£¡¡You¡¡want¡¡a¡¡hometown¡¡so¡¡that¡¡you¡¯ll¡¡be¡¡able¡¡return¡¡to¡¡your¡¡childhood¡¡to¡¡recollect¡¡long¡¡lost¡¡memories¡£¡¡
¡¡¡¡On¡¡this¡¡side¡¡of¡¡the¡¡bridge¡¡you¡¡eventually¡¡find¡¡an¡¡inn¡¡on¡¡an¡¡old¡¡cobblestone¡¡street¡£¡¡The¡¡wooden¡¡floors¡¡have¡¡been¡¡mopped¡¡and¡¡it¡¯s¡¡clean¡¡enough¡£¡¡You¡¡get¡¡a¡¡small¡¡single¡¡room¡¡which¡¡has¡¡a¡¡plank¡¡bed¡¡with¡¡a¡¡bamboo¡¡mat¡¡on¡¡it¡£¡¡The¡¡cotton¡¡blanket¡¡is¡¡a¡¡suspicious¡¡grey£»¡¡either¡¡it¡¡hasn¡¯t¡¡been¡¡washed¡¡properly¡¡or¡¡that¡¯s¡¡the¡¡original¡¡colour¡£¡¡You¡¡throw¡¡aside¡¡the¡¡greasy¡¡pillow¡¡from¡¡under¡¡the¡¡bamboo¡¡mat¡¡and¡¡luckily¡¡it¡¯s¡¡hot¡¡so¡¡you¡¡can¡¡do¡¡without¡¡the¡¡bedding¡£¡¡What¡¡you¡¡need¡¡right¡¡now¡¡is¡¡to¡¡off¡load¡¡your¡¡luggage¡¡which¡¡has¡¡bee¡¡quite¡¡heavy£»¡¡wash¡¡off¡¡the¡¡dust¡¡and¡¡sweat£»¡¡strip£»¡¡and¡¡stretch¡¡yourself¡¡out¡¡on¡¡the¡¡bed¡£¡¡There¡¯s¡¡shouting¡¡and¡¡yelling¡¡next¡¡door¡£¡¡They¡¯re¡¡gambling¡¡and¡¡you¡¡can¡¡hear¡¡them¡¡picking¡¡up¡¡and¡¡throwing¡¡down¡¡the¡¡cards¡£¡¡A¡¡timber¡¡partition¡¡separates¡¡you¡¡and£»¡¡through¡¡the¡¡holes¡¡poked¡¡into¡¡the¡¡paper¡¡covering¡¡the¡¡cracks£»¡¡you¡¡make¡¡out¡¡the¡¡blurred¡¡figures¡¡of¡¡some¡¡bare¡chested¡¡men¡£¡¡You¡¯re¡¡not¡¡so¡¡tired¡¡that¡¡you¡¡can¡¡drop¡¡off¡¡to¡¡sleep¡¡just¡¡like¡¡that¡£¡¡You¡¡tap¡¡on¡¡the¡¡wall¡¡and¡¡instantly¡¡there¡¯s¡¡loud¡¡shouting¡¡next¡¡door¡£¡¡They¡¯re¡¡not¡¡shouting¡¡at¡¡you¡¡but¡¡amongst¡¡themselves£º¡¡there¡¡are¡¡always¡¡winners¡¡and¡¡losers¡¡and¡¡the¡¡loser¡¡is¡¡trying¡¡to¡¡get¡¡out¡¡of¡¡paying¡£¡¡They¡¯re¡¡openly¡¡gambling¡¡in¡¡the¡¡inn¡¡despite¡¡the¡¡Public¡¡Security¡¡Office¡¡notice¡¡on¡¡the¡¡wall¡¡prohibiting¡¡gambling¡¡and¡¡prostitution£º¡¡you¡¡decide¡¡to¡¡check¡¡whether¡¡the¡¡law¡¡has¡¡any¡¡effect¡£¡¡You¡¡put¡¡on¡¡some¡¡clothes£»¡¡go¡¡down¡¡the¡¡corridor¡¡and¡¡knock¡¡on¡¡the¡¡half¡closed¡¡door¡£¡¡Your¡¡knocking¡¡makes¡¡no¡¡difference£»¡¡they¡¡keep¡¡shouting¡¡and¡¡yelling¡¡inside¡¡and¡¡nobody¡¡takes¡¡notice¡£¡¡So¡¡you¡¡push¡¡open¡¡the¡¡door¡¡and¡¡go¡¡in¡£¡¡The¡¡four¡¡men¡¡sitting¡¡around¡¡the¡¡bed¡¡in¡¡the¡¡middle¡¡of¡¡the¡¡room¡¡all¡¡turn¡¡to¡¡look¡¡at¡¡you¡£¡¡But¡¡it¡¯s¡¡you¡¡and¡¡not¡¡they¡¡who¡¡gets¡¡a¡¡rude¡¡shock¡£¡¡The¡¡men¡¡all¡¡have¡¡bits¡¡of¡¡paper¡¡stuck¡¡on¡¡their¡¡faces£»¡¡on¡¡the¡¡forehead£»¡¡lips£»¡¡nose¡¡and¡¡cheeks£»¡¡and¡¡they¡¡look¡¡ugly¡¡and¡¡ridiculous¡£¡¡They¡¡aren¡¯t¡¡laughing¡¡and¡¡are¡¡glaring¡¡at¡¡you¡£¡¡You¡¯ve¡¡butted¡¡in¡¡and¡¡they¡¯re¡¡clearly¡¡annoyed¡£¡¡
¡¡¡¡¡¨Oh£»¡¡you¡¯re¡¡playing¡¡cards£»¡¨¡¡you¡¡say£»¡¡putting¡¡on¡¡an¡¡apologetic¡¡look¡£¡¡
¡¡¡¡They¡¡go¡¡on¡¡with¡¡their¡¡game¡£¡¡The¡¡long¡¡paper¡¡cards¡¡have¡¡red¡¡and¡¡black¡¡markings¡¡like¡¡mahjong£»¡¡there¡¯s¡¡a¡¡Gate¡¡of¡¡Heaven¡¡and¡¡a¡¡Prison¡¡of¡¡Hell¡£¡¡The¡¡winner¡¡penalizes¡¡the¡¡loser¡¡by¡¡tearing¡¡off¡¡a¡¡strip¡¡of¡¡newspaper¡¡and¡¡sticking¡¡it¡¡on¡¡a¡¡designated¡¡spot¡£¡¡Whether¡¡this¡¡is¡¡a¡¡prank£»¡¡a¡¡way¡¡of¡¡letting¡¡off¡¡steam£»¡¡or¡¡a¡¡tally£»¡¡is¡¡agreed¡¡upon¡¡by¡¡the¡¡gamblers¡¡and¡¡there¡¡is¡¡no¡¡way¡¡for¡¡outsiders¡¡to¡¡know¡¡what¡¡it¡¯s¡¡all¡¡about¡£¡¡
¡¡¡¡You¡¡beat¡¡a¡¡retreat£»¡¡go¡¡back¡¡to¡¡your¡¡room£»¡¡lie¡¡down¡¡again£»¡¡and¡¡see¡¡a¡¡thick¡¡mass¡¡of¡¡black¡¡specks¡¡around¡¡the¡¡light¡¡globe¡£¡¡Millions¡¡of¡¡mosquitoes¡¡are¡¡waiting¡¡for¡¡the¡¡light¡¡to¡¡go¡¡out¡¡so¡¡that¡¡they¡¡can¡¡e¡¡down¡¡to¡¡feast¡¡on¡¡your¡¡blood¡£¡¡You¡¡quickly¡¡let¡¡down¡¡the¡¡mosquito¡¡net¡¡and¡¡are¡¡enclosed¡¡in¡¡a¡¡narrow¡¡conical¡¡space£»¡¡at¡¡the¡¡top¡¡of¡¡which¡¡is¡¡a¡¡bamboo¡¡hoop¡£¡¡It¡¯s¡¡been¡¡a¡¡long¡¡time¡¡since¡¡you¡¯ve¡¡slept¡¡under¡¡a¡¡hoop¡¡like¡¡this£»¡¡and¡¡you¡¯ve¡¡long¡¡since¡¡passed¡¡the¡¡age¡¡of¡¡being¡¡able¡¡to¡¡stare¡¡at¡¡the¡¡hoop¡¡to¡¡lose¡¡yourself¡¡in¡¡reverie¡£¡¡Today£»¡¡you¡¡can¡¯t¡¡know¡¡what¡¡traumas¡¡tomorrow¡¡will¡¡bring¡£¡¡You¡¯ve¡¡learnt¡¡through¡¡experience¡¡everything¡¡you¡¡need¡¡to¡¡know¡£¡¡What¡¡else¡¡are¡¡you¡¡looking¡¡for£¿¡¡When¡¡a¡¡man¡¡gets¡¡to¡¡middle¡¡age¡¡shouldn¡¯t¡¡he¡¡be¡¡looking¡¡for¡¡a¡¡peaceful¡¡and¡¡stable¡¡existence£»¡¡find¡¡a¡¡not¡too¡demanding¡¡sort¡¡of¡¡a¡¡job£»¡¡stay¡¡in¡¡a¡¡mediocre¡¡position£»¡¡bee¡¡a¡¡husband¡¡and¡¡a¡¡father£»¡¡set¡¡up¡¡a¡¡fortable¡¡home£»¡¡put¡¡money¡¡in¡¡the¡¡bank¡¡and¡¡add¡¡to¡¡it¡¡every¡¡month¡¡so¡¡there¡¯ll¡¡be¡¡something¡¡for¡¡old¡¡age¡¡and¡¡a¡¡little¡¡left¡¡over¡¡for¡¡the¡¡next¡¡generation£¿¡¡
¡¡¡¡Chapter¡¡Two¡¡
¡¡¡¡It¡¡is¡¡in¡¡the¡¡Qiang¡¡region¡¡halfway¡¡up¡¡Qionglai¡¡Mountain£»¡¡in¡¡the¡¡border¡¡areas¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Qinghai¡Tibetan¡¡highlands¡¡and¡¡the¡¡Sichuan¡¡basin£»¡¡that¡¡I¡¡witness¡¡a¡¡vestige¡¡of¡¡early¡¡human¡¡civilization£»¡¡the¡¡worship¡¡of¡¡fire¡£¡¡Fire£»¡¡the¡¡bringer¡¡of¡¡civilization£»¡¡has¡¡been¡¡worshipped¡¡by¡¡the¡¡early¡¡ancestors¡¡of¡¡humans¡¡beings¡¡everywhere¡£¡¡It¡¡is¡¡sacred¡£¡¡He¡¡is¡¡sitting¡¡in¡¡front¡¡of¡¡the¡¡fire¡¡drinking¡¡liquor¡¡from¡¡a¡¡bowl¡£¡¡Before¡¡each¡¡sip¡¡he¡¡puts¡¡a¡¡finger¡¡into¡¡it¡¡and¡¡flicks¡¡some¡¡on¡¡the¡¡charcoals¡¡which¡¡splutter¡¡noisily¡¡and¡¡send¡¡out¡¡blue¡¡sparks¡£¡¡It¡¡is¡¡only¡¡then¡¡that¡¡I¡¡perceive¡¡that¡¡I¡¡too¡¡am¡¡real¡£¡¡
¡¡¡¡¡¨That¡¯s¡¡for¡¡the¡¡God¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Cooking¡¡Stove£»¡¡it¡¯s¡¡thanks¡¡to¡¡him¡¡that¡¡we¡¡can¡¡eat¡¡and¡¡drink£»¡¨¡¡he¡¡says¡£¡¡
¡¡¡¡The¡¡dancing¡¡light¡¡of¡¡the¡¡fire¡¡shines¡¡on¡¡his¡¡thin¡¡cheeks£»¡¡the¡¡high¡¡bridge¡¡of¡¡his¡¡nose£»¡¡and¡¡his¡¡cheekbones¡£¡¡He¡¡tells¡¡me¡¡he¡¡is¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Qiang¡¡nationality¡¡and¡¡that¡¡he¡¯s¡¡from¡¡Gengda¡¡village¡¡down¡¡the¡¡mountain¡£¡¡I¡¡can¡¯t¡¡ask¡¡straight¡¡out¡¡about¡¡demons¡¡and¡¡spirits£»¡¡so¡¡I¡¡tell¡¡him¡¡I¡¯m¡¡here¡¡to¡¡do¡¡some¡¡research¡¡on¡¡the¡¡folk¡songs¡¡of¡¡the¡¡mountain¡£¡¡Do¡¡traditional¡¡song¡¡masters¡¡and¡¡dancers¡¡still¡¡exist¡¡here£¿¡¡He¡¡says¡¡he¡¯s¡¡one¡¡of¡¡them¡£¡¡The¡¡men¡¡and¡¡women¡¡all¡¡used¡¡to¡¡form¡¡a¡¡circle¡¡around¡¡the¡¡fire¡¡and¡¡dance¡¡right¡¡through¡¡to¡¡daybreak£»¡¡but¡¡later¡¡on¡¡it¡¡was¡¡banned¡£¡¡
¡¡¡¡¡¨Why£¿¡¨¡¡I¡¡know¡¡quite¡¡well¡¡but¡¡I¡¡ask¡£¡¡I¡¯m¡¡being¡¡dishonest¡¡again¡£¡¡
¡¡¡¡¡¨It¡¡was¡¡the¡¡Cultural¡¡Revolution¡£¡¡They¡¡said¡¡the¡¡songs¡¡were¡¡dirty¡¡so¡¡we¡¡changed¡¡to¡¡singing¡¡Sayings¡¡of¡¡Mao¡¡Zedong¡¡songs¡¡instead¡£¡¨¡¡
¡¡¡¡¡¨And¡¡what¡¡about¡¡after¡¡that£¿¡¨¡¡I¡¡persist¡¡in¡¡asking¡£¡¡This¡¡is¡¡being¡¡a¡¡habit¡£¡¡
¡¡¡¡¡¨No¡one¡¡sings¡¡those¡¡anymore¡£¡¡People¡¡are¡¡doing¡¡the¡¡dances¡¡again¡¡but¡¡not¡¡many¡¡of¡¡the¡¡young¡¡people¡¡can¡¡do¡¡them£»¡¡I¡¯m¡¡teaching¡¡the¡¡dances¡¡to¡¡some¡¡of¡¡them¡£¡¨¡¡
¡¡¡¡I¡¡ask¡¡him¡¡for¡¡a¡¡demonstration¡£¡¡Without¡¡hesitation£»¡¡he¡¡instantly¡¡gets¡¡to¡¡his¡¡feet¡¡and¡¡proceeds¡¡to¡¡dance¡¡and¡¡sing¡£¡¡His¡¡voice¡¡is¡¡low¡¡and¡¡rich£»¡¡he¡¯s¡¡got¡¡a¡¡good¡¡voice¡£¡¡I¡¯m¡¡sure¡¡he¡¯s¡¡Qiang¡¡even¡¡if¡¡the¡¡police¡¡in¡¡charge¡¡of¡¡the¡¡population¡¡register¡¡insist¡¡that¡¡he¡¡isn¡¯t¡£¡¡They¡¡think¡¡anyone¡¡claiming¡¡to¡¡be¡¡Tibetan¡¡or¡¡Qiang¡¡is¡¡trying¡¡to¡¡evade¡¡birth¡¡restrictions¡¡and¡¡have¡¡more¡¡children¡£¡¡
¡¡¡¡He¡¡sings¡¡song¡¡after¡¡song¡£¡¡He¡¡says¡¡he¡¯s¡¡a¡¡fun¡loving¡¡person£»¡¡I¡¡believe¡¡him¡£¡¡When¡¡he¡¡finished¡¡up¡¡as¡¡village¡¡head£»¡¡he¡¡went¡¡back¡¡to¡¡being¡¡one¡¡of¡¡the¡¡mountain¡¡people£»¡¡an¡¡old¡¡mountain¡¡man¡¡who¡¡likes¡¡good¡¡fun£»¡¡unfortunately¡¡he¡¡is¡¡past¡¡the¡¡age¡¡for¡¡romance¡£¡¡
¡¡¡¡He¡¡also¡¡knows¡¡incantations£»¡¡the¡¡kind¡¡hunters¡¡use¡¡when¡¡they¡¡go¡¡into¡¡the¡¡mountains¡£¡¡They¡¡are¡¡called¡¡mountain¡¡black¡magic¡¡or¡¡hexes¡¡and¡¡he¡¡has¡¡no¡¡qualms¡¡about¡¡using¡¡them¡£¡¡He¡¡really¡¡believes¡¡they¡¡can¡¡drive¡¡wild¡¡animals¡¡into¡¡pits¡¡or¡¡get¡¡them¡¡to¡¡step¡¡into¡¡snares¡£¡¡They¡¡aren¡¯t¡¡used¡¡only¡¡on¡¡animals£»¡¡they¡¯re¡¡also¡¡used¡¡against¡¡other¡¡humans¡¡beings¡¡for¡¡revenge¡£¡¡A¡¡victim¡¡of¡¡mountain¡¡black¡magic¡¡won¡¯t¡¡be¡¡able¡¡to¡¡find¡¡his¡¡way¡¡out¡¡of¡¡the¡¡mountains¡£¡¡They¡¡are¡¡like¡¡the¡¡¡¨demon¡¡walls¡¨¡¡I¡¡heard¡¡about¡¡as¡¡a¡¡child£º¡¡when¡¡someone¡¡has¡¡been¡¡travelling¡¡for¡¡some¡¡time¡¡at¡¡night¡¡in¡¡the¡¡mountains£»¡¡a¡¡wall£»¡¡a¡¡cliff¡¡or¡¡a¡¡deep¡¡river¡¡appears¡¡right¡¡in¡¡front¡¡of¡¡him£»¡¡so¡¡that¡¡he¡¡can¡¯t¡¡go¡¡any¡¡further¡£¡¡If¡¡the¡¡spell¡¡isn¡¯t¡¡broken¡¡the¡¡person¡¯s¡¡feet¡¡don¡¯t¡¡move¡¡forward¡¡and¡¡even¡¡if¡¡he¡¡keeps¡¡walking£»¡¡he¡¡stays¡¡exactly¡¡where¡¡he¡¡started¡¡off¡£¡¡Only¡¡at¡¡daybreak¡¡does¡¡he¡¡discover¡¡that¡¡he¡¡has¡¡been¡¡going¡¡around¡¡in¡¡circles¡£¡¡That¡¯s¡¡not¡¡so¡¡bad£»¡¡the¡¡worst¡¡is¡¡when¡¡a¡¡person¡¡is¡¡led¡¡into¡¡a¡¡blind¡alley£º¡¡that¡¡means¡¡death¡£¡¡
¡¡¡¡He¡¡intones¡¡strings¡¡of¡¡incantations¡£¡¡It¡¯s¡¡not¡¡slow¡¡and¡¡relaxed¡¡like¡¡when¡¡he¡¡is¡¡singing£»¡¡but¡¡just¡¡nan¡nan¡na¡na¡¡to¡¡a¡¡quick¡¡beat¡£¡¡I¡¡can¡¯t¡¡understand¡¡it¡¡at¡¡all¡¡but¡¡I¡¡can¡¡feel¡¡the¡¡mystical¡¡pull¡¡of¡¡the¡¡words£»¡¡a¡¡demonic¡¡awesome¡¡atmosphere¡¡instantly¡¡permeates¡¡the¡¡room£»¡¡the¡¡inside¡¡of¡¡which¡¡is¡¡black¡¡from¡¡smoke¡£¡¡The¡¡glow¡¡of¡¡the¡¡flames¡¡licking¡¡the¡¡iron¡¡pot¡¡of¡¡mutton¡¡stew¡¡make¡¡his¡¡eyes¡¡glint¡£¡¡This¡¡is¡¡all¡¡starkly¡¡real¡£¡¡
¡¡¡¡While¡¡you¡¡search¡¡for¡¡the¡¡route¡¡to¡¡Lingshan£»¡¡I¡¡wander¡¡along¡¡the¡¡Yangtze¡¡River¡¡looking¡¡for¡¡this¡¡sort¡¡of¡¡reality¡£¡¡I¡¡had¡¡just¡¡gone¡¡through¡¡a¡¡crisis¡¡and¡¡then£»¡¡on¡¡top¡¡