wild wales-第101章

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your　honour　knows。〃

〃Oh　yes！〃　said　I；　〃when　you　next　see　him　present　my　respects　to　
him。〃

〃What　name　shall　I　mention；　your　honour？〃

〃Shorsha　Borroo；〃　said　I。

〃Oh；　then　I　was　right　in　taking　your　honour　for　an　Irishman。　　None　
but　a　raal　Paddy　bears　that　name。　　A　credit　to　your　honour　is　your　
name；　for　it　is　a　famous　name；　（17）　and　a　credit　to　your　name　is　
your　honour；　for　it　is　a　neat　man　without　a　bend　you　are。　　God　
bless　your　honour　and　good　night！　and　may　you　find　dacent　quarters　
in　the　'Pump　Saint。'〃

Leaving　Mary　Bane　I　proceeded　on　my　way。　　The　evening　was　rather　
fine　but　twilight　was　coming　rapidly　on。　　I　reached　the　bottom　of　
the　valley　and　soon　overtook　a　young　man　dressed　something　like　a　
groom。　　We　entered　into　conversation。　　He　spoke　Welsh　and　a　little　
English。　　His　Welsh　I　had　great　difficulty　in　understanding；　as　it　
was　widely　different　from　that　which　I　had　been　accustomed　to。　　He　
asked　me　where　I　was　going　to；　I　replied　to　the　〃Pump　Saint；〃　and　
then　enquired　if　he　was　in　service。

〃I　am；〃　said　he。

〃With　whom　do　you　live？〃　said　I。

〃With　Mr　Johnes　of　Dol　Cothi；〃　he　answered。

Struck　by　the　word　Cothi；　I　asked　if　Dol　Cothi　was　ever　called　Glyn　
Cothi。

〃Oh　yes；〃　said　he；　〃frequently。〃

〃How　odd；〃　thought　I　to　myself；　〃that　I　should　have　stumbled　all　of　
a　sudden　upon　the　country　of　my　old　friend　Lewis　Glyn　Cothi；　the　
greatest　poet　after　Ab　Gwilym　of　all　Wales！〃

〃Is　Cothi　a　river？〃　said　I　to　my　companion。

〃It　is；〃　said　he。

Presently　we　came　to　a　bridge　over　a　small　river。

〃Is　this　river　the　Cothi？〃　said　I。

〃No；〃　said　he；　〃this　is　the　Twrch；　the　bridge　is　called　Pont　y　
Twrch。〃

〃The　bridge　of　Twrch　or　the　hog；〃　said　I　to　myself；　〃there　is　a　
bridge　of　the　same　name　in　the　Scottish　Highlands；　not　far　from　the　
pass　of　the　Trossachs。　　I　wonder　whether　it　has　its　name　from　the　
same　cause　as　this；　namely；　from　passing　over　a　river　called　the　
Twrch　or　Torck；　which　word　in　Gaelic　signifies　boar　or　hog　even　as　
it　does　in　Welsh。〃　　It　had　now　become　nearly　dark。　　After　
proceeding　some　way　farther　I　asked　the　groom　if　we　were　far　from　
the　inn　of　the　〃Pump　Saint。〃

〃Close　by；〃　said　he；　and　presently　pointing　to　a　large　building　on　
the　right…hand　side　he　said：　　〃This　is　the　inn　of　the　'Pump　Saint；'　
sir。　　Nos　Da'chi！〃



CHAPTER　XCVI



〃Pump　Saint〃　…　Pleasant　Residence　…　The　Watery　Coom　…　Philological　
Fact　…　Evening　Service　…　Meditation。


I　ENTERED　the　inn　of　the　〃Pump　Saint。〃　　It　was　a　comfortable　old…
fashioned　place；　with　a　very　large　kitchen　and　a　rather　small　
parlour。　　The　people　were　kind　and　attentive；　and　soon　set　before　
me　in　the　parlour　a　homely　but　savoury　supper；　and　a　foaming　
tankard　of　ale。　　After　supper　I　went　into　the　kitchen；　and　sitting　
down　with　the　good　folks　in　an　immense　chimney…corner；　listened　to　
them　talking　in　their　Carmarthenshire　dialect　till　it　was　time　to　
go　to　rest；　when　I　was　conducted　to　a　large　chamber　where　I　found　
an　excellent　and　clean　bed　awaiting　me；　in　which　I　enjoyed　a　
refreshing　sleep；　occasionally　visited　by　dreams　in　which　some　of　
the　scenes　of　the　preceding　day　again　appeared　before　me；　but　in　an　
indistinct　and　misty　manner。

Awaking　in　the　very　depth　of　the　night　I　thought　I　heard　the　
murmuring　of　a　river；　I　listened　and　soon　found　that　I　had　not　been　
deceived。　　〃I　wonder　whether　that　river　is　the　Cothi；〃　said　I；　〃the　
stream　of　the　immortal　Lewis。　　I　will　suppose　that　it　is〃　…　and　
rendered　quite　happy　by　the　idea；　I　soon　fell　asleep　again。

I　arose　about　eight　and　went　out　to　look　about　me。　　The　village　
consists　of　little　more　than　half…a…dozen　houses。　　The　name　〃Pump　
Saint〃　signifies　〃Five　Saints。〃　　Why　the　place　is　called　so　I　know　
not。　　Perhaps　the　name　originally　belonged　to　some　chapel　which　
stood　either　where　the　village　now　stands　or　in　the　neighbourhood。　　
The　inn　is　a　good　specimen　of　an　ancient　Welsh　hostelry。　　Its　gable　
is　to　the　road　and　its　front　to　a　little　space　on　one　side　of　the　
way。　　At　a　little　distance　up　the　road　is　a　blacksmith's　shop。　　The　
country　around　is　interesting：　　on　the　north…west　is　a　fine　wooded　
hill　…　to　the　south　a　valley　through　which　flows　the　Cothi；　a　fair　
river；　the　one　whose　murmur　had　come　so　pleasingly　upon　my　ear　in　
the　depth　of　night。

After　breakfast　I　departed　for　Llandovery。　　Presently　I　came　to　a　
lodge　on　the　left…hand　beside　an　ornamental　gate　at　the　bottom　of　
an　avenue　leading　seemingly　to　a　gentleman's　seat。　　On　inquiring　of　
a　woman；　who　sat　at　the　door　of　the　lodge；　to　whom　the　grounds　
belonged；　she　said　to　Mr　Johnes；　and　that　if　I　pleased　I　was　
welcome　to　see　them。　　I　went　in　and　advanced　along　the　avenue；　
which　consisted　of　very　noble　oaks；　on　the　right　was　a　vale　in　
which　a　beautiful　brook　was　running　north　and　south。　　Beyond　the　
vale　to　the　east　were　fine　wooded　hills。　　I　thought　I　had　never　
seen　a　more　pleasing　locality；　though　I　saw　it　to　great　
disadvantage；　the　day　being　dull；　and　the　season　the　latter　fall。　　
Presently；　on　the　avenue　making　a　slight　turn；　I　saw　the　house；　a　
plain　but　comfortable　gentleman's　seat　with　wings。　　It　looked　to　
the　south　down　the　dale。　　〃With　what　satisfaction　I　could　live　in　
that　house；〃　said　I　to　myself；　〃if　backed　by　a　couple　of　thousands　
a…year。　　With　what　gravity　could　I　sign　a　warrant　in　its　library；　
and　with　what　dreamy　comfort　translate　an　ode　of　Lewis　Glyn　Cothi；　
my　tankard　of　rich　ale　beside　me。　　I　wonder　whether　the　proprietor　
is　fond　of　the　old　bard　and　keeps　good　ale。　　Were　I　an　Irishman　
instead　of　a　Norfolk　man　I　would　go　in　and　ask　him。〃

Returning　to　the　road　I　proceeded　on　my　journey。　　I　passed　over　
Pont　y　Rhanedd　or　the　bridge　of　the　Rhanedd；　a　small　river　flowing　
through　a　dale；　then　by　Clas　Hywel；　a　lofty　mountain　which　appeared　
to　have　three　heads。　　After　walking　for　some　miles　I　came　to　where　
the　road　divided　into　two。　　By　a　sign…post　I　saw　that　both　led　to　
Llandovery；　one　by　Porth　y　Rhyd　and　the　other　by　Llanwrda。　　The　
distance　by　the　first　was　six　miles　and　a　half；　by　the　latter　eight　
and　a　half。　　Feeling　quite　the　reverse　of　tired　I　chose　the　longest　
road；　namely　the　one　by　Llanwrda；　along　which　I　sped　at　a　great　
rate。

In　a　little　time　I　found　myself　in　the　heart　of　a　romantic　winding　
dell；　overhung　with　trees　of　various　kinds；　which　a　tall　man　whom　I　
met　told　me　was　called　Cwm　Dwr　Llanwrda；　or　the　Watery　Coom　of　
Llanwrda；　and　well　might　it　be　called　the　Watery　Coom；　for　there　
were　several　bridges　in　it；　two　within　a　few　hundred　yards　of　each　
other。　　The　same　man　told　me　that　the　war　was　going　on　very　badly；　
that　our　soldiers　were　suffering　much；　and　that　the　snow　was　two　
feet　deep　at　Sebastopol。

Passing　through　Llanwrda；　a　pretty　village　with　a　singular…looking　
church；　close　to　which　stood　an　enormous　yew；　I　entered　a　valley　
which　I　learned　was　the　valley　of　the　Towey。　　I　directed　my　course　
to　the　north；　having　the　river　on　my　right；　which　runs　towards　the　
south　in　a　spacious　bed；　which；　however；　except　in　times　of　flood；　
it　scarcely　half　fills。　　Beautiful　hills　were　on　other　side；　partly　
cultivated；　partly　covered　with　wood；　and　here　and　there　dotted　
with　farm…houses　and　gentlemen's　seats；　green　pastures　which　
descended　nearly　to　the　river　occupying　in　general　the　lower　parts。　　
After　journeying　about　four　miles　amid　this　kind　of　scenery　I　came　
to　a　noble　suspension　bridge；　and　crossing　it　found　myself　in　about　
a　quarter　of　an　hour　at　Llandovery。

It　was　about　half…past　two　when　I　arrived。　　I　put　up　at　the　Castle　
Inn　and　forthwith　ordered　dinner；　which　was　served　up　between　four　
and　five。　　During　dinner　I　was　waited　upon　by　a　strange　old　fellow　
who　spoke　Welsh　and　English　with　equal　fluency。

〃What　countryman　are　you？〃　said　I。

〃An　Englishman；〃　he　replied。

〃From　what　part　of　England？〃

〃From　Herefordshire。〃

〃Have　you　been　long　here？〃

〃Oh　yes！　upwards　of　twenty　years。〃

〃How　came　you　to　learn　Welsh？〃

〃Oh；　I　took　to　it　and　soon　picked　it　up。〃

〃Can　you　read　it？〃　said　I。

〃No；　I　can't。〃

〃Can　you　read　English？〃

〃Yes；　I　can；　that　is；　a　little。〃

〃Why　didn't　you　try　to　learn　to　read　Welsh？〃

〃Well；　I　did；　but　I　could　make　no　hand　of　it。　　It's　one　thing　to　
speak　Welsh　and　another　to　read　it。〃

〃I　can　read　Welsh　much　better　than　I　can　speak　it；〃　said　I。

〃Ah；　you　are　a　gentleman　…　gentlefolks　always　find　it　easier　to　
learn　to　read　a　foreign　lingo　than　to　speak　it；　but　it's　quite　the　
contrary　with　we　poor　folks。〃

〃One　of　the　most　profound　truths　ever　uttered　connected　with　
language；〃　said　I　to　myself。　　I　asked　him　if　there　were　many　Church　
of　England　people　in　Llandovery。

〃A　good　many；〃　he　replied。

〃Do　you　belong　to　the　Church？〃　said　I。

〃Yes；　I　do。〃

〃If　this　were　Sunday　I　would　go　to　church；〃　said　I。

〃Oh；　if　you　wish　to　go　to　church　you　can　go　to…night。　　This　is　
Wednesday；　and　there　will　be　service　at　half…past　six。　　If　you　like　
I　will　come　for　you。〃

〃Pray　do；〃　said　I；　〃I　should　like　above　all　things　to　go。〃

Dinner　over　I　sat　before　the　fire　occasionally　dozing；　occasionally　
sipping　a　glass　of　whiskey…and…water。　　A　little　after　six　the　old　
fellow　made　his　appearance　with　a　kind　of　Spanish　hat　on　his　head。　　
We　set　out；　the　night　was　very　dark；　we　went　down　a　long　street　
seemingly　in　the　direction　of　the　west。　　〃How　many　churches　are　
there　in　Llandovery？〃　said　I　to　my　companion。

〃Only　one；　but　you　are　not　going　to　Llandovery　Church；　but　to　that　
of　Llanfair；　in　which　our　clergyman　does　duty　once　or　twice　a　
week。〃

〃Is　it　far？〃　said　I。

〃Oh　no；　just　out　of　the　town；　only　a　few　steps　farther。〃

We　seemed　to　pass　over　a　bridge　and　began　to　ascend　a　rising　
ground。　　Several　people　were　going　in　the　same　direction。

〃There；〃　said　the　old　man；　〃follow　with　these；　and　a　little　farther　
up　you　will　come　to　the　church；　which　stands　on　the　right　hand。〃

He　then　left　me。　　I　went　with　the　rest　and　soon　came　to　the　church。　　
I　went　in　and　was　at　once　conducted　by　an　old　man；　who　I　believe　
was　the　sexton；　to　a　large　pew　close　against　the　southern　wall。　　
The　inside　of　the　church　was　dimly　lighted；　it　was　long　and　narrow；　
and　the　walls　were　painted　with　a　yellow　colour。　　The　pulpit　stood　
against　the　northern　wall　near　the　altar；　and　almost　opposite　to　
the　pew　in　which　I　sat。　　After　a　little　time　the　service　commenced；　
it　was　in　Welsh。　　When　the　litanies　were　concluded　the　clergyman；　
who　appeared　to　be　a　middle…aged　man；　and　who　had　rather　a　fine　
voice；　began　to　preach。　　His　sermon　was　from　the　119th　Psalm：　　〃Am　
hynny　hoffais　dy　gorchymynion　yn　mwy　nag　aur：〃　　〃Therefore　have　I　
loved　thy　commandments　more　than　gold。〃　　The　sermon；　which　was　
extempore；　was　delivered　with　great　earnestness；　and　I　make　no　
doubt　was　a　very　excellent　one；　but　owing　to　its　being　in　South　
Welsh　I　did　not　derive　much　benefit　from　it　as　I　otherwise　might　
have　done。　　When　it　was　over　a　great　many　got　up　and　went　away。　　
Observing；　however；　that　not　a　few　remained；　I　determined　upon　
remaining　too。　　When　everything　was　quiet　the　clergyman；　descending　
from　the　pulpit；　repaired　to　the　vestry；　and　having　taken　off　his　
gown　went　into　a　pew；　and　stand