wild wales-第105章

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houses；　one　of　them；　at　the　door　of　which　several　carts　were　
standing；　bore　the　sign　of　a　tavern。

〃What　is　the　name　of　this　place？〃　said　I　to　a　man　who　was　breaking　
stones　on　the　road。

〃Capel　Gwynfa；〃　said　he。

Rather　surprised　at　the　name；　which　signifies　in　English　the　Chapel　
of　the　place　of　bliss；　I　asked　the　man　why　it　was　called　so。

〃I　don't　know；〃　said　the　man。

〃Was　there　ever　a　chapel　here？〃　said　I。

〃I　don't　know；　sir；　there　is　none　now。〃

〃I　daresay　there　was　in　the　old　time；〃　said　I　to　myself；　as　I　went　
on；　〃in　which　some　holy　hermit　prayed　and　told　his　beads；　and　
occasionally　received　benighted　strangers。　　What　a　poetical　word　
that　Gwynfa；　place　of　bliss；　is。　　Owen　Pugh　uses　it　in　his　
translation　of　'Paradise　Lost'　to　express　Paradise；　for　he　has　
rendered　the　words　Paradise　Lost　by　Col　Gwynfa　…　the　loss　of　the　
place　of　bliss。　　I　wonder　whether　the　old　scholar　picked　up　the　
word　here。　　Not　unlikely。　　Strange　fellow　that　Owen　Pugh。　　Wish　I　
had　seen　him。　　No　hope　of　seeing　him　now；　except　in　the　heavenly　
Gwynfa。　　Wonder　whether　there　is　such　a　place。　　Tom　Payne　thinks　
there's　not。　　Strange　fellow　that　Tom　Payne。　　Norfolk　man。　　Wish　I　
had　never　read　him。〃

Presently　I　came　to　a　little　cottage　with　a　toll…bar。　　Seeing　a　
woman　standing　at　the　door；　I　inquired　of　her　the　name　of　the　gate。

〃Cowslip　Gate；　sir。〃

〃Has　it　any　Welsh　name？〃

〃None　that　I　know　of；　sir。〃

This　place　was　at　a　considerable　altitude；　and　commanded　an　
extensive　view　to　the　south；　west；　and　north。　　Heights　upon　heights　
rose　behind　it　to　the　east。　　From　here　the　road　ran　to　the　south　
for　a　little　way　nearly　level；　then　turned　abruptly　to　the　east；　
and　was　more　steep　than　ever。　　After　the　turn；　I　had　a　huge　chalk　
cliff　towering　over　me　on　the　right；　and　a　chalk　precipice　on　my　
left。　　Night　was　now　coming　on　fast；　and；　rather　to　my　uneasiness；　
masses　of　mist　began　to　pour　down　the　sides　of　the　mountain。　　I　
hurried　on；　the　road　making　frequent　turnings。　　Presently　the　mist　
swept　down　upon　me；　and　was　so　thick　that　I　could　only　see　a　few　
yards　before　me。　　I　was　now　obliged　to　slacken　my　pace；　and　to　
advance　with　some　degree　of　caution。　　I　moved　on　in　this　way　for　
some　time；　when　suddenly　I　heard　a　noise；　as　if　a　number　of　carts　
were　coming　rapidly　down　the　hill。　　I　stopped；　and　stood　with　my　
back　close　against　the　high　bank。　　The　noise　drew　nearer；　and　in　a　
minute　I　saw　distinctly　through　the　mist；　horses；　carts；　and　forms　
of　men　passing。　　In　one　or　two　cases　the　wheels　appeared　to　be　
within　a　few　inches　of　my　feet。　　I　let　the　train　go　by；　and　then　
cried　out　in　English；　〃Am　I　right　for　Gutter　Vawr？〃

〃Hey？〃　said　a　voice；　after　a　momentary　interval。

〃Am　I　right　for　Gutter　Vawr？〃　I　shouted　yet　louder。

〃Yes　sure！〃　said　a　voice；　probably　the　same。

Then　instantly　a　much　rougher　voice　cried；　〃Who　the　Devil　are　you？〃

I　made　no　answer；　but　went　on；　whilst　the　train　continued　its　way　
rumbling　down　the　mountain。　　At　length　I　gained　the　top；　where　the　
road　turned　and　led　down　a　steep　descent　towards　the　south…west。　　
It　was　now　quite　night；　and　the　mist　was　of　the　thickest　kind。　　I　
could　just　see　that　there　was　a　frightful　precipice　on　my　left；　so　
I　kept　to　the　right；　hugging　the　side　of　the　hill。　　As　I　descended　
I　heard　every　now　and　then　loud　noises　in　the　vale；　probably　
proceeding　from　stone　quarries。　　I　was　drenched　to　the　skin；　nay；　
through　the　skin；　by　the　mist；　which　I　verily　believe　was　more　
penetrating　than　that　described　by　Ab　Gwilym。　　When　I　had　proceeded　
about　a　mile　I　saw　blazes　down　below；　resembling　those　of　furnaces；　
and　soon　after　came　to　the　foot　of　the　hill。　　It　was　here　pouring　
with　rain；　but　I　did　not　put　up　my　umbrella；　as　it　was　impossible　
for　me　to　be　more　drenched　than　I　was。　　Crossing　a　bridge　over　a　
kind　of　torrent；　I　found　myself　amongst　some　houses。　　I　entered　one　
of　them　from　which　a　blaze　of　light　and　a　roar　of　voices　proceeded；　
and；　on　inquiring　of　an　old　woman　who　confronted　me　in　the　passage；　
I　found　that　I　had　reached　my　much　needed　haven　of　rest；　the　tavern　
of　Gutter　Vawr　in　the　county　of　Glamorgan。



CHAPTER　XCIX



Inn　at　Gutter　Vawr　…　The　Hurly…burly　…　Bara　y　Caws　…　Change　of　
Manner　…　Welsh　Mistrust　…　Wonders　of　Russia　…　The　Emperor　…　The　
Grand　Ghost　Story。


THE　old　woman　who　confronted　me　in　the　passage　of　the　inn　turned　
out　to　be　the　landlady。　　On　learning　that　I　intended　to　pass　the　
night　at　her　house；　she　conducted　me　into　a　small　room　on　the　
right…hand　side　of　the　passage；　which　proved　to　be　the　parlour。　　It　
was　cold　and　comfortless；　for　there　was　no　fire　in　the　grate。　　She　
told　me；　however；　that　one　should　be　lighted；　and　going　out；　
presently　returned　with　a　couple　of　buxom　wenches；　who　I　soon　found　
were　her　daughters。　　The　good　lady　had　little　or　no　English；　the　
girls；　however；　had　plenty；　and　of　a　good　kind　too。　　They　soon　
lighted　a　fire；　and　then　the　mother　inquired　if　I　wished　for　any　
supper。

〃Certainly；〃　said　I；　〃for　I　have　not　eaten　anything　since　I　left　
Llandovery。　　What　can　I　have？〃

〃We　have　veal　and　bacon；〃　said　she。

〃That　will　do；〃　said　I；　〃fry　me　some　veal　and　bacon；　and　I　shan't　
complain。　　But　pray　tell　what　prodigious　noise　is　that　which　I　hear　
on　the　other　side　of　the　passage？〃

〃It　is　only　the　miners　and　the　carters　in　the　kitchen　making　
merry；〃　said　one　of　the　girls。

〃Is　there　a　good　fire　there？〃　said　I。

〃Oh　yes；〃　said　the　girl；　〃we　have　always　a　good　fire　in　the　
kitchen。〃

〃Well　then；〃　said　I；　〃I　shall　go　there　till　supper　is　ready；　for　I　
am　wet　to　the　skin；　and　this　fire　casts　very　little　heat。〃

〃You　will　find　them　a　rough　set　in　the　kitchen；〃　said　the　girl。

〃I　don't　care　if　I　do〃　said　I；　〃when　people　are　rough　I　am　civil；　
and　I　have　always　found　that　civility　beats　roughness　in　the　long　
run。〃　　Then　going　out　I　crossed　the　passage　and　entered　the　
kitchen。

It　was　nearly　filled　with　rough　unkempt　fellows；　smoking；　drinking；　
whistling；　singing；　shouting　or　jabbering；　some　in　a　standing；　some　
in　a　sitting；　posture。　　My　entrance　seemed　at　once　to　bring　
everything　to　a　dead　stop；　the　smokers　ceased　to　smoke；　the　hand　
that　was　conveying　the　glass　or　the　mug　to　the　mouth　was　arrested　
in　air；　the　hurly…burly　ceased　and　every　eye　was　turned　upon　me　
with　a　strange　inquiring　stare。　　Without　allowing　myself　to　be　
disconcerted　I　advanced　to　the　fire；　spread　out　my　hands　before　it　
for　a　minute；　gave　two　or　three　deep　〃ahs〃　of　comfort；　and　then　
turning　round　said：　　〃Rather　a　damp　night；　gentlemen　…　fire　
cheering　to　one　who　has　come　the　whole　way　from　Llandovery　…　Taking　
a　bit　of　a　walk　in　Wales；　to　see　the　scenery　and　to　observe　the　
manners　and　customs　of　the　inhabitants　…　Fine　country；　gentlemen；　
noble　prospects；　hill　and　dale　…　Fine　people　too　…　open…hearted　and　
generous；　no　wonder！　descendants　of　the　Ancient　Britons　…　Hope　I　
don't　intrude　…　other　room　rather　cold　and　smoking　…　If　I　do；　will　
retire　at　once　…　don't　wish　to　interrupt　any　gentleman　in　their　
avocations　or　deliberations　…　scorn　to　do　anything　ungenteel　or　
calculated　to　give　offence　…　hope　I　know　how　to　behave　myself　…　
ought　to　do　so　…　learnt　grammar　at　the　High　School　at　Edinburgh。〃

〃Offence；　intrusion！〃　cried　twenty　voices。　　〃God　bless　your　honour！　
no　intrusion　and　no　offence　at　all；　sit　down　…　sit　here　…　won't　you　
drink？〃

〃Please　to　sit　here；　sir；〃　said　an　old　grimy…looking　man；　getting　
up　from　a　seat　in　the　chimney…corner　…　〃this　is　no　seat　for　me　
whilst　you　are　here；　it　belongs　to　you　…　sit　down　in　it；〃　and　
laying　hold　of　me　he　compelled　me　to　sit　down　in　the　chair　of　
dignity；　whilst　half…a…dozen　hands　pushed　mugs　of　beer　towards　my　
face；　these；　however；　I　declined　to　partake　of　on　the　very　
satisfactory　ground　that　I　had　not　taken　supper；　and　that　it　was　a　
bad　thing　to　drink　before　eating；　more　especially　after　coming　out　
of　a　mist。

〃Have　you　any　news　to　tell　of　the　war；　sir？〃　said　a　large　tough　
fellow；　who　was　smoking　a　pipe。

〃The　last　news　that　I　heard　of　the　war；〃　said　I；　〃was　that　the　snow　
was　two　feet　deep　at　Sebastopol。〃

〃I　heard　three；〃　said　the　man；　〃however；　if　there　be　but　two　it　
must　be　bad　work　for　the　poor　soldiers。　　I　suppose　you　think　that　
we　shall　beat　the　Russians　in　the　end。〃

〃No；　I　don't；〃　said　I；　〃the　Russians　are　a　young　nation　and　we　are　
an　old；　they　are　coming　on　and　we　are　going　off；　every　dog　has　its　
day。〃

〃That's　true；〃　said　the　man；　〃but　I　am　sorry　that　you　think　we　
shall　not　beat　the　Russians；　for　the　Russians　are　a　bad　set。〃

〃Can　you　speak　Welsh？〃　said　a　darkish　man　with　black；　bristly　hair　
and　a　small　inquisitive　eye。

〃Oh；　I　know　two　words　in　Welsh；〃　said　I；　〃bara　y　caws。〃

〃That's　bread　and　cheese；〃　said　the　man；　then　turning　to　a　
neighbour　of　his　he　said　in　Welsh：　　〃He　knows　nothing　of　Cumraeg；　
only　two　words；　we　may　say　anything　we　please；　he　can't　understand　
us。　　What　a　long　nose　he　has！〃

〃Mind　that　he　an't　nosing　us；〃　said　his　neighbour。　　〃I　should　be　
loth　to　wager　that　he　doesn't　understand　Welsh；　and；　after　all；　he　
didn't　say　that　he　did　not；　but　got　off　by　saying　he　understood　
those　two　words。〃

〃No；　he　doesn't　understand　Welsh；〃　said　the　other；　〃no　Sais　
understands　Welsh；　and　this　is　a　Sais。　　Now　with　regard　to　that　
piece　of　job…work　which　you　and　I　undertook。〃　　And　forthwith　he　and　
the　other　entered　into　a　disquisition　about　the　job…work。

The　company　soon　got　into　its　old　train；　drinking　and　smoking　and　
making　a　most　terrific　hullabaloo。　　Nobody　took　any　farther　notice　
of　me。　　I　sat　snug　in　the　chimney…corner；　trying　to　dry　my　wet　
things；　and　as　the　heat　was　very　great；　partially　succeeded。　　In　
about　half…an…hour　one　of　the　girls　came　to　tell　me　that　my　supper　
was　ready；　whereupon　I　got　up　and　said：

〃Gentlemen；　I　thank　you　for　your　civility；　I　am　now　going　to　
supper；　perhaps　before　I　turn　in　for　the　night　I　may　look　in　upon　
you　again。〃　　Then　without　waiting　for　an　answer　I　left　the　kitchen　
and　went　into　the　other　room；　where　I　found　a　large　dish　of　veal　
cutlets　and　fried　bacon　awaiting　me；　and　also　a　smoking　bowl　of　
potatoes。　　Ordering　a　jug　of　ale　I　sat　down；　and　what　with　hunger　
and　the　goodness　of　the　fare；　for　everything　was　first…rate；　made　
one　of　the　best　suppers　I　ever　made　in　my　life。

Supper　over　I　called　for　a　glass　of　whiskey…and…water；　over　which　I　
trifled　for　about　half…an…hour　and　then　betook　myself　again　to　the　
kitchen。　　Almost　as　soon　as　I　entered；　the　company　…　who　seemed　to　
be　discussing　some　point；　and　were　not　making　much　hurly…burly　…　
became　silent；　and　looked　at　me　in　a　suspicious　and　uneasy　manner。　　
I　advanced　towards　the　fire。　　The　old　man　who　had　occupied　the　seat　
in　the　chimney…corner　and　had　resigned　it　to　me；　had　again　taken　
possession　of　it。　　As　I　drew　near　to　the　fire　he　looked　upon　the　
ground；　and　seemed　by　no　means　disposed　to　vacate　the　place　of　
honour；　after　a　few　moments；　however；　he　got　up　and　offered　me　the　
seat　with　slight　motion　of　his　hand　and　without　saying　a　word。　　I　
did　not　decline　it　but　sat　down；　and　the　old　gentleman　took　a　chair　
near。　　Universal　silence　now　prevailed；　sullen　looks　were　c