wild wales-第106章

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near。　　Universal　silence　now　prevailed；　sullen　looks　were　cast　at　
me；　and　I　saw　clearly　enough　that　I　was　not　welcome。　　Frankness　was　
now　my　only　resource。　　〃What's　the　matter；　gentlemen？〃　said　I；　〃you　
are　silent　and　don't　greet　me　kindly；　have　I　given　you　any　cause　of　
offence？〃　　No　one　uttered　a　word　in　reply　for　nearly　a　minute；　when　
the　old　man　said　slowly　and　deliberately：　　〃Why；　sir；　the　long　and　
short　of　it　is　this：　　we　have　got　it　into　our　heads　that　you　
understand　every　word　of　our　discourse；　now；　do　you　or　do　you　not？〃

〃Understand　every　word　of　your　discourse？〃　said　I；　〃I　wish　I　did；　I　
would　give　five　pounds　to　understand　every　word　of　your　discourse。〃

〃That's　a　clever　attempt　to　get　off；　sir；〃　said　the　old　man；　〃but　
it　won't　exactly　do。　　Tell　us　whether　you　know　more　Welsh　than　bara　
y　caws；　or　to　speak　more　plainly；　whether　you　understand　a　good　
deal　of　what　we　say。〃

〃Well；〃　said　I；　〃I　do　understand　more　Welsh　than　bara　y　caws　…　I　do　
understand　a　considerable　part　of　a　Welsh　conversation；　moreover；　I　
can　read　Welsh；　and　have　the　life　of　Tom　O'r　Nant　at　my　fingers'　
ends。〃

〃Well；　sir；　that　is　speaking　plain；　and　I　will　tell　you　plainly　
that　we　don't　like　to　have　strangers　among　us　who　understand　our　
discourse；　more　especially　if　they　be　gentlefolks。〃

〃That's　strange；〃　said　I；　〃a　Welshman　or　foreigner；　gentle　or　
simple；　may　go　into　a　public…house　in　England；　and　nobody　cares　a　
straw　whether　he　understands　the　discourse　of　the　company　or　not。〃

〃That　may　be　the　custom　in　England；〃　said　the　old　man；　〃but　it　is　
not　so　in　Wales。〃

〃What　have　you　got　to　conceal？〃　said　I；　〃I　suppose　you　are　honest　
men。〃

〃I　hope　we　are；　sir；〃　said　the　old　man；　〃but　I　must　tell　you；　once　
for　all；　that　we　don't　like　strangers　to　listen　to　our　discourse。〃

〃Come；〃　said　I；　〃I　will　not　listen　to　your　discourse；　but　you　shall　
listen　to　mine。　　I　have　a　wonderful　deal　to　say　if　I　once　begin；　I　
have　been　everywhere。〃

〃Well；　sir；〃　said　the　old　man；　〃if　you　have　anything　to　tell　us　
about　where　you　have　been　and　what　you　have　seen；　we　shall　be　glad　
to　hear　you。〃

〃Have　you　ever　been　in　Russia？〃　shouted　a　voice；　that　of　the　large　
rough　fellow　who　asked　me　the　question　about　the　Russian　war。

〃Oh　yes；　I　have　been　in　Russia；〃　said　I。

〃Well；　what　kind　of　a　country　is　it？〃

〃Very　different　from　this；〃　said　I；　〃which　is　a　little　country　up　
in　a　corner；　full　of　hills　and　mountains；　that　is　an　immense　
country；　extending　from　the　Baltic　Sea　to　the　confines　of　China；　
almost　as　flat　as　a　pancake；　there　not　being　a　hill　to　be　seen　for　
nearly　two　thousand　miles。〃

〃A　very　poor　country　isn't　it；　always　covered　with　ice　and　snow？〃

〃Oh　no；　it　is　one　of　the　richest　countries　in　the　world；　producing　
all　kinds　of　grain；　with　noble　rivers　intersecting　it；　and　in　some　
parts　covered　with　stately　forests。　　In　the　winter；　which　is　rather　
long；　there　is　a　good　deal　of　ice　and　snow；　it　is　true；　but　in　the　
summer　the　weather　is　warmer　than　here。〃

〃And　are　there　any　towns　and　cities　in　Russia；　sir；　as　there　are　in　
Britain？〃　said　the　old　man　who　had　resigned　his　seat　in　the　
chimney…corner　to　me；　〃I　suppose　not；　or　if　there　be；　nothing　equal　
to　Hereford　or　Bristol；　in　both　of　which　I　have　been。〃

〃Oh　yes；〃　said　I；　〃there　are　plenty　of　towns　and　cities。　　The　two　
principal　ones　are　Moscow　and　Saint　Petersburg；　both　of　which　are　
capitals。　　Moscow　is　a　fine　old　city；　far　up　the　country；　and　was　
the　original　seat　of　empire。　　In　it　there　is　a　wonderful　building　
called　the　Kremlin；　situated　on　a　hill。　　It　is　partly　palace；　
partly　temple；　and　partly　fortress。　　In　one　of　its　halls　are　I　
don't　know　how　many　crowns；　taken　from　various　kings　whom　the　
Russians　have　conquered。　　But　the　most　remarkable　thing　in　the　
Kremlin　is　a　huge　bell　in　a　cellar　or　cave；　close　by　one　of　the　
churches；　it　is　twelve　feet　high；　and　the　sound　it　gives　when　
struck　with　an　iron　bar；　for　there　are　no　clappers　to　Russian　
bells；　is　so　loud　that　the　common　Russians　say　it　can　be　heard　over　
the　empire。　　The　other　city；　Saint　Petersburg；　where　the　Court　
generally　reside；　is　a　modern　and　very　fine　city；　so　fine　indeed；　
that　I　have　no　hesitation　in　saying　that　neither　Bristol　nor　
Hereford　is　worthy　to　be　named　in　the　same　day　with　it。　　Many　of　
the　streets　are　miles　in　length；　and　straight　as　an　arrow。　　The　
Nefsky　Prospect；　as　it　is　called；　a　street　which　runs　from　the　
grand　square；　where　stands　the　Emperor's　palace；　to　the　monastery　
of　Saint　Alexander　Nefsky；　is　nearly　three　miles　in　length；　and　is　
full　of　noble　shops　and　houses。　　The　Neva；　a　river　twice　as　broad　
and　twice　as　deep　as　the　Thames；　and　whose　waters　are　clear　as　
crystal；　runs　through　the　town；　having　on　each　side　of　it　a　superb　
quay；　fenced　with　granite；　which　affords　one　of　the　most　delightful　
walks　imaginable。　　If　I　had　my　choice　of　all　the　cities　of　the　
world　to　live　in；　I　would　choose　Saint　Petersburg。〃

〃And　did　you　ever　see　the　Emperor？〃　said　the　rough　fellow；　whom　I　
have　more　than　once　mentioned；　〃did　you　ever　see　the　Emperor　
Nicholas？〃

〃Oh　yes：　　I　have　seen　him　frequently。〃

〃Well；　what　kind　of　a　man　is　he？　we　should　like　to　know。〃

〃A　man　of　colossal　stature；　with　a　fine；　noble；　but　rather　stern　
and　severe　aspect。　　I　think　I　now　see　him；　with　his　grey　cloak；　
cocked　hat；　and　white　waving　plumes；　striding　down　the　Nefsky　
Prospect；　and　towering　by　a　whole　head　over　other　people。〃

〃Bravo！　　Did　you　ever　see　him　at　the　head　of　his　soldiers？〃

〃Oh　yes！　　I　have　seen　the　Emperor　review　forty　thousand　of　his　
chosen　troops　in　the　Champs　de　Mars；　and　a　famous　sight　it　was。　　
There　stood　the　great；　proud　man　looking　at　his　warriors　as　they　
manoeuvred　before　him。　　Two…thirds　of　them　were　cavalry；　and　each　
horseman　was　mounted　on　a　beautiful　blood　charger　of　Cossack　or　
English　breed；　and　arrayed　in　a　superb　uniform。　　The　blaze；　glitter　
and　glory　were　too　much　for　my　eyes；　and　I　was　frequently　obliged　
to　turn　them　away。　　The　scene　upon　the　whole　put　me　in　mind　of　an　
immense　field　of　tulips　of　various　dyes；　for　the　colours　of　the　
dresses；　of　the　banners　and　the　plumes；　were　as　gorgeous　and　
manifold　as　the　hues　of　those　queenly　flowers。〃

〃Bravo！〃　said　twenty　voices；　〃the　gentleman　speaks　like　an　
areithiwr。　　Have　you　been　in　other　countries　besides　Russia？〃

〃Oh　yes！　　I　have　been　in　Turkey；　the　people　of　which　are　not　
Christians；　but　frequently　put　Christians　to　shame　by　their　good　
faith　and　honesty。　　I　have　been　in　the　land　of　the　Maugrabins；　or　
Moors　…　a　people　who　live　on　a　savoury　dish　called　couscousoo；　and　
have　the　gloomiest　faces　and　the　most　ferocious　hearts　under　
heaven。　　I　have　been　in　Italy；　whose　people；　though　the　most　clever　
in　the　world；　are　the　most　unhappy；　owing　to　the　tyranny　of　a　being　
called　the　Pope；　who；　when　I　saw　him；　appeared　to　be　under　the　
influence　of　strong　drink。　　I　have　been　in　Portugal；　the　people　of　
which　supply　the　whole　world　with　wine；　and　drink　only　water　
themselves。　　I　have　been　in　Spain；　a　very　fine　country；　the　people　
of　which　are　never　so　happy　as　when　paying　other　folks'　reckonings。　　
I　have　been　…　but　the　wind　is　blowing　wildly　without；　and　the　rain　
pelting　against　the　windows；　this　is　a　capital　night　for　a　ghost　
story；　shall　I　tell　you　a　ghost　story　which　I　learnt　in　Spain？〃

〃Yes；　sir；　pray　do；　we　all　love　ghost　stories。　　Do　tell　us　the　
ghost　story　of　Spain。〃

Thereupon　I　told　the　company　Lope　de　Vega's　ghost　story；　which　is　
decidedly　the　best　ghost　story　in　the　world。

Long　and　loud　was　the　applause　which　followed　the　conclusion　of　the　
grand　ghost　story　of　the　world；　in　the　midst　of　which　I　got　up；　
bade　the　company　good…night；　and　made　my　exit。　　Shortly　afterwards　
I　desired　to　be　shown　to　my　sleeping　apartment。　　It　was　a　very　
small　room　upstairs；　in　the　back　part　of　the　house；　and　I　make　no　
doubt　was　the　chamber　of　the　two　poor　girls；　the　landlady's　
daughters；　as　I　saw　various　articles　of　female　attire　lying　about。　　
The　spirit　of　knight…errantry　within　me　was　not；　however；　
sufficiently　strong　to　prevent　me　taking　possession　of　the　female　
dormitory；　so；　forthwith　divesting　myself　of　every　portion　of　my　
habiliments；　which　were　steaming　like　a　boiling　tea…kettle；　I　got　
into　bed　between　the　blankets；　and　in　a　minute　was　fast　in　the　arms　
of　Morpheus。



CHAPTER　C



Morning　…　A　Cheerless　Scene　…　The　Carter　…　Ode　to　Glamorgan　…　
Startling　Halloo　…　One…sided　Liberty　…　Clerical　Profession　…　De　
Courcy　…　Love　of　the　Drop　…　Independent　Spirit　…　Another　People。


I　SLEPT　soundly　through　the　night。　　At　about　eight　o'clock　on　the　
following　morning　I　got　up　and　looked　out　of　the　window　of　my　room；　
which　fronted　the　north。　　A　strange　scene　presented　itself：　　a　
roaring　brook　was　foaming　along　towards　the　west；　just　under　the　
window。　　Immediately　beyond　it　was　a　bank；　not　of　green　turf；　grey　
rock；　or　brown　mould；　but　of　coal　rubbish；　coke　and　cinders；　on　the　
top　of　this　bank　was　a　fellow　performing　some　dirty　office　or　
other；　with　a　spade　and　barrow；　beyond　him；　on　the　side　of　a　hill；　
was　a　tramway；　up　which　a　horse　was　straining；　drawing　a　load　of　
something　towards　the　north…west。　　Beyond　the　tramway　was　a　grove　
of　yellow…looking　firs；　beyond　the　grove　a　range　of　white　houses　
with　blue　roofs；　occupied；　I　suppose；　by　miners　and　their　families；　
and　beyond　these　I　caught　a　sight　of　the　mountain　on　the　top　of　
which　I　had　been　the　night　before　…　only　a　partial　one；　however；　as　
large　masses　of　mist　were　still　hanging　about　it。　　The　morning　was　
moist　and　dripping；　and　nothing　could　look　more　cheerless　and　
uncomfortable　than　the　entire　scene。

I　put　on　my　things；　which　were　still　not　half　dry；　and　went　down　
into　the　little　parlour；　where　I　found　an　excellent　fire　awaiting　
me；　and　a　table　spread　for　breakfast。　　The　breakfast　was　delicious；　
consisting　of　excellent　tea；　buttered　toast；　and　Glamorgan　
sausages；　which　I　really　think　are　not　a　whit　inferior　to　those　of　
Epping。　　After　breakfast　I　went　into　the　kitchen；　which　was　now　
only　occupied　by　two　or　three　people。　　Seeing　a　large　brush　on　a　
dresser；　I　took　it　up；　and　was　about　to　brush　my　nether　
habiliments；　which　were　terribly　bespattered　with　half…dried　mire。　　
Before；　however；　I　could　begin；　up　started　one　of　the　men；　a　wild；　
shock…headed　fellow　dressed　like　a　carter；　in　rough　blue　frieze　

coat；　yellow；　broad　corduroy　trowsers；　grey　woollen　stockings　and　
highlows；　and　snatching　the　brush　out　of　my　hand；　fell　to　brushing　
me　most　vigorously；　puffing　and　blowing　all　the　time　in　a　most　
tremendous　manner。　　I　did　not　refuse　his　services；　but　let　him　go　
on；　and　to　reward　him　as　I　thought；　spoke　kindly　to　him；　asking　him　
various　questions。　　〃Are　you　a　carter？〃　said　I。　　No　answer。　　〃One　
of　Twm　O'r　Nant's　people？〃　　No　answer。　　〃Famous　fellow　that　Twm　O'r　
Nant；　wasn't　he？　　Did　you　ever　hear　how　he　got　the　great　tree　in　at　
Carmarthen　Gate？　　What　is　wood　per　foot　at　present？　　Whom　do　you　
cart　for？　　Or　are　you　your　own　master？　　If　so；　how　many　horses　do　
you　keep？〃

To　not　one　of　these　questions；　nor　to　a　dozen　others　which　I　put；　
both　in　English　and　Welsh；　did　my　fri