wild wales-第110章

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stones　upon　the　road。　　After　walking　about　half…an…hour；　always　
going　downwards；　I　saw　a　house　on　my　left　hand　and　heard　a　noise　of　
water　opposite　to　it。　　It　was　a　pistyll。　　I　went　to　it；　drank　
greedily；　and　then　hurried　on。　　More　and　more　blazes；　and　the　
glowing　object　looking　more　terrible　than　ever。　　It　was　now　above　
me　at　some　distance　to　the　left；　and　I　could　see　that　it　was　an　
immense　quantity　of　heated　matter　like　lava；　occupying　the　upper　
and　middle　parts　of　a　hill；　and　descending　here　and　there　almost　to　
the　bottom　in　a　zigzag　and　tortuous　manner。　　Between　me　and　the　
hill　of　the　burning　object　lay　a　deep　ravine。　　After　a　time　I　came　
to　a　house；　against　the　door　of　which　a　man　was　leaning。　　〃What　is　
all　that　burning　stuff　above；　my　friend？〃

〃Dross　from　the　iron　forges；　sir！〃

I　now　perceived　a　valley　below　me　full　of　lights；　and　descending　
reached　houses　and　a　tramway。　　I　had　blazes　now　all　around　me。　　I　
went　through　a　filthy　slough；　over　a　bridge；　and　up　a　street；　from　
which　dirty　lanes　branched　off　on　either　side；　passed　throngs　of　
savage…looking　people　talking　clamorously；　shrank　from　addressing　
any　of　them；　and　finally；　undirected；　found　myself　before　the　
Castle　Inn　at　Merthyr　Tydvil。



CHAPTER　CIV



Iron　and　Coal　…　The　Martyred　Princess　…　Cyfartha　Fawr　…　Diabolical　
Structure。


MERTHYR　TYDVIL　is　situated　in　a　broad　valley　through　which　roll　the　
waters　of　the　Taf。　　It　was　till　late　an　inconsiderable　village；　but　
is　at　present　the　greatest　mining　place　in　Britain；　and　may　be　
called　with　much　propriety　the　capital　of　the　iron　and　coal。

It　bears　the　name　of　Merthyr　Tydvil；　which　signifies　the　Martyr　
Tydvil；　because　in　the　old　time　a　Christian　British　princess　was　
slain　in　the　locality　which　it　occupies。　　Tydvil　was　the　daughter　
of　Brychan；　Prince　of　Brecon；　surnamed　Brycheiniawg；　or　the　
Breconian；　who　flourished　in　the　fifth　century　and　was　a　
contemporary　of　Hengist。　　He　was　a　man　full　of　Christian　zeal；　and　
a　great　preacher　of　the　Gospel；　and　gave　his　children；　of　which　he　
had　many；　both　male　and　female；　by　various　wives；　an　education　
which　he　hoped　would　not　only　make　them　Christians；　but　enable　them　
to　preach　the　Gospel　to　their　countrymen。　　They　proved　themselves　
worthy　of　his　care；　all　of　them　without　one　exception　becoming　
exemplary　Christians；　and　useful　preachers。　　In　his　latter　days　he　
retired　to　a　hermitage　in　Glamorganshire　near　the　Taf；　and　passed　
his　time　in　devotion；　receiving　occasionally　visits　from　his　
children。　　Once；　when　he　and　several　of　them；　amongst　whom　was　
Tydvil；　were　engaged　in　prayer；　a　band　of　heathen　Saxons　rushed　in　
upon　them　and　slew　Tydvil　with　three　of　her　brothers。　　Ever　since　
that　time　the　place　has　borne　the　name　of　Martyr　Tydvil。　（21）

The　Taf；　which　runs　to　the　south　of　Merthyr；　comes　down　from　
Breconshire；　and　enters　the　Bristol　Channel　at　Cardiff；　a　place　the　
name　of　which　in　English　is　the　city　on　the　Taf。　　It　is　one　of　the　
most　beautiful　of　rivers；　but　is　not　navigable　on　account　of　its　
numerous　shallows。　　The　only　service　which　it　renders　to　commerce　
is　feeding　a　canal　which　extends　from　Merthyr　to　Cardiff。　　It　is　
surprising　how　similar　many　of　the　Welsh　rivers　are　in　name：　　Taf；　
Tawey；　Towey；　Teivi；　and　Duffy　differ　but　very　little　in　sound。　　
Taf　and　Teivi　have　both　the　same　meaning；　namely　a　tendency　to　
spread　out。　　The　other　names；　though　probably　expressive　of　the　
properties　or　peculiarities　of　the　streams　to　which　they　
respectively　belong；　I　know　not　how　to　translate。

The　morning　of　the　fourteenth　was　very　fine。　　After　breakfast　I　
went　to　see　the　Cyfartha　Fawr　iron　works；　generally　considered　to　
be　the　great　wonder　of　the　place。　　After　some　slight　demur　I　
obtained　permission　from　the　superintendent　to　inspect　them。　　I　was　
attended　by　an　intelligent　mechanic。　　What　shall　I　say　about　the　
Cyfartha　Fawr？　　I　had　best　say　but　very　little。　　I　saw　enormous　
furnaces。　　I　saw　streams　of　molten　metal。　　I　saw　a　long　ductile　
piece　of　red…hot　iron　being　operated　upon。　　I　saw　millions　of　
sparks　flying　about。　　I　saw　an　immense　wheel　impelled　round　with　
frightful　velocity　by　a　steam…engine　of　two　hundred　and　forty　horse　
power。　　I　heard　all　kinds　of　dreadful　sounds。　　The　general　effect　
was　stunning。　　These　works　belong　to　the　Crawshays；　a　family　
distinguished　by　a　strange　kind　of　eccentricity；　but　also　by　genius　
and　enterprising　spirit；　and　by　such　a　strict　feeling　of　honour　
that　it　is　a　common　saying　that　the　word　of　any　one　of　them　is　as　
good　as　the　bond　of　other　people。

After　seeing　the　Cyfartha　I　roamed　about；　making　general　
observations。　　The　mountain　of　dross　which　had　startled　me　on　the　
preceding　night　with　its　terrific　glare；　and　which　stands　to　the　
north…west　of　the　town；　looked　now　nothing　more　than　an　immense　
dark　heap　of　cinders。　　It　is　only　when　the　shades　of　night　have　
settled　down　that　the　fire　within　manifests　itself；　making　the　hill　
appear　an　immense　glowing　mass。　　All　the　hills　around　the　town；　
some　of　which　are　very　high；　have　a　scorched　and　blackened　look。　　
An　old　Anglesea　bard；　rather　given　to　bombast；　wishing　to　extol　the　
abundant　cheer　of　his　native　isle　said：　　〃The　hills　of　Ireland　are　
blackened　by　the　smoke　from　the　kitchens　of　Mona。〃　　With　much　more　
propriety　might　a　bard　of　the　banks　of　the　Taf；　who　should　wish　to　
apologise　for　the　rather　smutty　appearance　of　his　native　vale　
exclaim：　　〃The　hills　around　the　Taf　once　so　green　are　blackened　by　
the　smoke　from　the　chimneys　of　Merthyr。〃　　The　town　is　large　and　
populous。　　The　inhabitants　for　the　most　part　are　Welsh；　and　Welsh　
is　the　language　generally　spoken；　though　all　have　some　knowledge　of　
English。　　The　houses　are　in　general　low　and　mean；　and　built　of　
rough　grey　stone。　　Merthyr；　however；　can　show　several　remarkable　
edifices；　though　of　a　gloomy　horrid　Satanic　character。　　There　is　
the　hall　of　the　Iron；　with　its　arches；　from　whence　proceeds　
incessantly　a　thundering　noise　of　hammers。　　Then　there　is　an　
edifice　at　the　foot　of　a　mountain；　half　way　up　the　side　of　which　is　
a　blasted　forest　and　on　the　top　an　enormous　crag。　　A　truly　
wonderful　edifice　it　is；　such　as　Bos　would　have　imagined　had　he　
wanted　to　paint　the　palace　of　Satan。　　There　it　stands：　　a　house　of　
reddish　brick　with　a　slate　roof　…　four　horrid　black　towers　behind；　
two　of　them　belching　forth　smoke　and　flame　from　their　tops　…　holes　
like　pigeon　holes　here　and　there　…　two　immense　white　chimneys　
standing　by　themselves。　　What　edifice　can　that　be　of　such　strange　
mad　details？　I　ought　to　have　put　that　question　to　some　one　in　
Tydvil；　but　did　not；　though　I　stood　staring　at　the　diabolical　
structure　with　my　mouth　open。　　It　is　of　no　use　putting　the　question　
to　myself　here。

After　strolling　about　for　some　two　hours　with　my　hands　in　my　
pockets；　I　returned　to　my　inn；　called　for　a　glass　of　ale；　paid　my　
reckoning；　flung　my　satchel　over　my　shoulder；　and　departed。



CHAPTER　CV



Start　for　Caerfili　…　Johanna　Colgan　…　Alms…Giving　…　The　Monstrous　
Female　…　The　Evil　Prayer　…　The　Next　Day　…　The　Aifrionn　…　Unclean　
Spirits　…　Expectation　…　Wreaking　Vengeance　…　A　decent　Alms。


I　LEFT　Merthyr　about　twelve　o'clock　for　Caerfili。　　My　course　lay　
along　the　valley　to　the　south…east。　　I　passed　a　large　village　
called　Troed　y　Rhiw；　or　the　foot　of　the　slope；　from　its　being　at　
the　foot　of　a　lofty　elevation；　which　stands　on　the　left…hand　side　
of　the　road；　and　was　speeding　onward　fast；　with　the　Taf　at　some　
distance　on　my　right；　when　I　saw　a　strange…looking　woman　advancing　
towards　me。　　She　seemed　between　forty　and　fifty；　was　bare…footed　
and　bare…headed；　with　grizzled　hair　hanging　in　elf　locks；　and　was　
dressed　in　rags　and　tatters。　　When　about　ten　yards　from　me；　she　
pitched　forward；　gave　three　or　four　grotesque　tumbles；　heels　over　
head；　then　standing　bolt　upright；　about　a　yard　before　me；　raised　
her　right　arm；　and　shouted　in　a　most　discordant　voice　…　〃Give　me　an　
alms；　for　the　glory　of　God！〃

I　stood　still；　quite　confounded。　　Presently；　however；　recovering　
myself；　I　said：…　〃Really；　I　don't　think　it　would　be　for　the　glory　
of　God　to　give　you　alms。〃

〃Ye　don't！　　Then；　Biadh　an　taifrionn　…　however；　I'll　give　ye　a　
chance　yet。　　Am　I　to　get　my　alms　or　not？〃

〃Before　I　give　you　alms　I　must　know　something　about　you。　　Who　are　
you？〃

〃Who　am　I？　　Who　should　I　be　but　Johanna　Colgan；　a　bedivilled　woman　
from　the　county　of　Limerick？〃

〃And　how　did　you　become　bedevilled？〃

〃Because　a　woman　something　like　myself　said　an　evil　prayer　over　me　
for　not　giving　her　an　alms；　which　prayer　I　have　at　my　tongue's　end；　
and　unless　I　get　my　alms　will　say　over　you。　　So　for　your　own　sake；　
honey；　give　me　my　alms；　and　let　me　go　on　my　way。〃

〃Oh；　I　am　not　to　be　frightened　by　evil　prayers！　　I　shall　give　you　
nothing　till　I　hear　all　about　you。〃

〃If　I　tell　ye　all　about　me　will　ye　give　me　an　alms？〃

〃Well；　I　have　no　objection　to　give　you　something　if　you　tell　me　
your　story。〃

〃Will　ye　give　me　a　dacent　alms？〃

〃Oh；　you　must　leave　the　amount　to　my　free　will　and　pleasure。　　I　
shall　give　you　what　I　think　fit。〃

〃Well；　so　ye　shall；　honey；　and　I　make　no　doubt　ye　will　give　me　a　
dacent　alms；　for　I　like　the　look　of　ye；　and　knew　ye　to　be　an　
Irishman　half　a　mile　off。　　Only　four　years　ago；　instead　of　being　a　
bedivilled　woman；　tumbling　about　the　world；　I　was　as　quiet　and　
respectable　a　widow　as　could　be　found　in　the　county　of　Limerick。　　I　
had　a　nice　little　farm　at　an　aisy　rint；　horses；　cows；　pigs；　and　
servants；　and；　what　was　better　than　all；　a　couple　of　fine　sons；　who　
were　a　help　and　comfort　to　me。　　But　my　black　day　was　not　far　off。　　
I　was　a　mighty　charitable　woman；　and　always　willing　to　give　to　the　
bacahs　and　other　beggars　that　came　about。　　Every　morning；　before　I　
opened　my　door；　I　got　ready　the　alms　which　I　intended　to　give　away　
in　the　course　of　the　day　to　those　that　should　ask　for　them；　and　I　
made　so　good　a　preparation　that；　though　plenty　of　cripples　and　
other　unfortunates　wandering　through　the　world　came　to　me　every　
day；　part　of　the　alms　was　sure　to　remain　upon　my　hands　every　night　
when　I　closed　my　door。　　The　alms　which　I　gave　away　consisted　of　
meal；　and　I　had　always　a　number　of　small　measures　of　meal　standing　
ready　on　a　board；　one　of　which　I　used　to　empty　into　the　poke　of　
every　bacah　or　other　unfortunate　who　used　to　place　himself　at　the　
side　of　my　door　and　cry　out　'Ave　Maria！'　or　'In　the　name　of　God！'　　
Well；　one　morning　I　sat　within　my　door　spinning；　with　a　little　bit　
of　colleen　beside　me　who　waited　upon　me　as　servant。　　My　measures　of　
meal　were　all　ready　for　the　unfortunates　who　should　come；　filled　
with　all　the　meal　in　the　house；　for　there　was　no　meal　in　the　house　
save　what　was　in　those　measures　…　divil　a　particle；　the　whole　stock　
being　exhausted；　though　by　evening　I　expected　plenty　more；　my　two　
sons　being　gone　to　the　ballybetagh；　which　was　seven　miles　distant；　
for　a　fresh　supply；　and　for　other　things。　　Well；　I　sat　within　my　
door；　spinning；　with　my　servant　by　my　side　to　wait　upon　me；　and　my　
measures　of　meal　ready　for　the　unfortunates　who　might　come　to　ask　
for　alms。　　There　I　sat；　quite　proud；　and　more　happy　than　I　h