wild wales-第113章

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oblong　yard　on　the　peninsula；　by　the　confluence　of　the　waters；　and　
quite　in　keeping　with　the　character　of　the　quiet　Christian　people　
who　sleep　within　it。　　The　Quakers　have　for　some　time　past　been　a　
decaying　sect；　but　they　have　done　good　work　in　their　day；　and　when　
they　are　extinct　they　are　not　destined　to　be　soon　forgotten。　　Soon　
forgotten！　　How　should　a　sect　ever　be　forgotten；　to　which　have　
belonged　three　such　men　as　George　Fox；　William　Penn；　and　Joseph　
Gurney？

Shortly　after　I　left　the　Quakers'　Yard　the　sun　went　down　and　
twilight　settled　upon　the　earth。　　Pursuing　my　course　I　reached　some　
woodlands；　and　on　inquiring　of　a　man；　whom　I　saw　standing　at　the　
door　of　a　cottage；　the　name　of　the　district；　was　told　that　it　was　
called　Ystrad　Manach　…　the　Monks'　Strath　or　valley。　　This　name　it　
probably　acquired　from　having　belonged　in　times　of　old　to　some　
monkish　establishment。　　The　moon　now　arose　and　the　night　was　
delightful。　　As　I　was　wandering　along　I　heard　again　the　same　wild　
noise　which　I　had　heard　the　night　before；　on　the　other　side　of　
Merthyr　Tydvil。　　The　cry　of　the　owl　afar　off　in　the　woodlands。　　Oh　
that　strange　bird！　　Oh　that　strange　cry！　　The　Welsh；　as　I　have　said　
on　a　former　occasion；　call　the　owl　Dylluan。　　Amongst　the　cowydds　of　
Ab　Gwilym　there　is　one　to　the　dylluan。　　It　is　full　of　abuse　against　
the　bird；　with　whom　the　poet　is　very　angry　for　having　with　its　cry　
frightened　Morfydd　back；　who　was　coming　to　the　wood　to　keep　an　
assignation　with　him；　but　not　a　little　of　this　abuse　is　wonderfully　
expressive　and　truthful。　　He　calls　the　owl　a　grey　thief　…　the　
haunter　of　the　ivy　bush　…　the　chick　of　the　oak；　a　blinking　eyed　
witch；　greedy　of　mice；　with　a　visage　like　the　bald　forehead　of　a　
big　ram；　or　the　dirty　face　of　an　old　abbess；　which　bears　no　little　
resemblance　to　the　chine　of　an　ape。　　Of　its　cry　he　says　that　it　is　
as　great　a　torment　as　an　agonizing　recollection；　a　cold　shrill　
laugh　from　the　midst　of　a　kettle　of　ice；　the　rattling　of　sea…
pebbles　in　an　old　sheep…skin；　on　which　account　many　call　the　owl　
the　hag　of　the　Rhugylgroen。　　The　Rhugylgroen；　it　will　be　as　well　to　
observe；　is　a　dry　sheepskin　containing　a　number　of　pebbles；　and　is　
used　as　a　rattle　for　frightening　crows。　　The　likening　the　visage　of　
the　owl　to　the　dirty　face　of　an　old　abbess　is　capital；　and　the　
likening　the　cry　to　the　noise　of　the　rhugylgroen　is　anything　but　
unfortunate。　　For；　after　all；　what　does　the　voice　of　the　owl　so　
much　resemble　as　a　diabolical　rattle。　　I'm　sure　I　don't　know。　　
Reader；　do　you？

I　reached　Caerfili　at　about　seven　o'clock；　and　went　to　the　〃Boar's　
Head；〃　near　the　ruins　of　a　stupendous　castle；　on　which　the　beams　of　
the　moon　were　falling。



CHAPTER　CVII



Caerfili　Castle　…　Sir　Charles　…　The　Waiter　…　Inkerman。


I　SLEPT　well　during　the　night。　　In　the　morning　after　breakfast　I　
went　to　see　the　castle；　over　which　I　was　conducted　by　a　woman　who　
was　intrusted　with　its　care。　　It　stands　on　the　eastern　side　of　the　
little　town；　and　is　a　truly　enormous　structure；　which　brought　to　my　
recollection　a　saying　of　our　great　Johnson；　to　be　found　in　the　
account　of　his　journey　to　the　Western　Islands；　namely　〃that　for　all　
the　castles　which　he　had　seen　beyond　the　Tweed　the　ruins　yet　
remaining　of　some　one　of　those　which　the　English　built　in　Wales　
would　find　materials。〃　　The　original　founder　was　one　John　De　Bryse；　
a　powerful　Norman　who　married　the　daughter　of　Llewellyn　Ap　
Jorwerth；　the　son…in…law　of　King　John；　and　the　most　war…like　of　all　
the　Welsh　princes；　whose　exploits；　and　particularly　a　victory　which　
he　obtained　over　his　father…in…law；　with　whom　he　was　always　at　war；　
have　been　immortalized　by　the　great　war…bard；　Dafydd　Benfras。　　It　
was　one　of　the　strongholds　which　belonged　to　the　Spencers；　and　
served　for　a　short　time　as　a　retreat　to　the　unfortunate　Edward　the　
Second。　　It　was　ruined　by　Cromwell；　the　grand　foe　of　the　baronial　
castles　of　Britain；　but　not　in　so　thorough　and　sweeping　a　manner　as　
to　leave　it　a　mere　heap　of　stones。　　There　is　a　noble　entrance　porch　
fronting　the　west　…　a　spacious　courtyard；　a　grand　banqueting　room；　
a　corridor　of　vast　length；　several　lofty　towers；　a　chapel；　a　sally…
port；　a　guard…room　and　a　strange　underground　vaulted　place　called　
the　mint；　in　which　Caerfili's　barons　once　coined　money；　and　in　
which　the　furnaces　still　exist　which　were　used　for　melting　metal。　　
The　name　Caerfili　is　said　to　signify　the　Castle　of　Haste；　and　to　
have　been　bestowed　on　the　pile　because　it　was　built　in　a　hurry。　　
Caerfili；　however；　was　never　built　in　a　hurry；　as　the　remains　show。　　
Moreover；　the　Welsh　word　for　haste　is　not　fil　but　ffrwst。　　Fil　
means　a　scudding　or　darting　through　the　air；　which　can　have　nothing　
to　do　with　the　building　of　a　castle。　　Caerfili　signifies　Philip's　
City；　and　was　called　so　after　one　Philip　a　saint。　　It　no　more　means　
the　castle　of　haste　than　Tintagel　in　Cornwall　signifies　the　castle　
of　guile；　as　the　learned　have　said　it　does；　for　Tintagel　simply　
means　the　house　in　the　gill　of　the　hill；　a　term　admirably　
descriptive　of　the　situation　of　the　building。

I　started　from　Caerfili　at　eleven　for　Newport；　distant　about　
seventeen　miles。　　Passing　through　a　toll…gate　I　ascended　an　
acclivity；　from　the　top　of　which　I　obtained　a　full　view　of　the　
castle；　looking　stern；　dark　and　majestic。　　Descending　the　hill　I　
came　to　a　bridge　over　a　river　called　the　Rhymni　or　Rumney；　much　
celebrated　in　Welsh　and　English　song　…　thence　to　Pentref　Bettws；　or　
the　village　of　the　bead…house；　doubtless　so　called　from　its　having　
contained　in　old　times　a　house　in　which　pilgrims　might　tell　their　
beads。

The　scenery　soon　became　very　beautiful　…　its　beauty；　however；　was　
to　a　certain　extent　marred　by　a　horrid　black　object；　a　huge　coal　
work；　the　chimneys　of　which　were　belching　forth　smoke　of　the　
densest　description。　　〃Whom　does　that　work　belong　to？〃　said　I　to　a　
man　nearly　as　black　as　a　chimney　sweep。

〃Who　does　it　belong　to？　　Why；　to　Sir　Charles。〃

〃Do　you　mean　Sir　Charles　Morgan？〃

〃I　don't　know。　　I　only　know　that　it　belongs　to　Sir　Charles；　the　
kindest…hearted　and　richest　man　in　Wales　and　in　England　too。〃

Passing　some　cottages　I　heard　a　group　of　children　speaking　English。　　
Asked　an　intelligent…looking　girl　if　she　could　speak　Welsh。

〃Yes；〃　said　she；　〃I　can　speak　it；　but　not　very　well。〃　　There　is　not　
much　Welsh　spoken　by　the　children　hereabout。　　The　old　folks　hold　
more　to　it。

I　saw　again　the　Rhymni　river；　and　crossed　it　by　a　bridge；　the　river　
here　was　filthy　and　turbid；　owing　of　course　to　its　having　received　
the　foul　drainings　of　the　neighbouring　coal　works。　　Shortly　
afterwards　I　emerged　from　the　coom　or　valley　of　the　Rhymni；　and　
entered　upon　a　fertile　and　tolerably　level　district。　　Passed　by　
Llanawst　and　Machen。　　The　day　which　had　been　very　fine　now　became　
dark　and　gloomy。　　Suddenly；　as　I　was　descending　a　slope；　a　
brilliant　party；　consisting　of　four　young　ladies　in　riding…habits；　
a　youthful　cavalier　and　a　servant　in　splendid　livery　…　all　on　noble　
horses；　swept　past　me　at　full　gallop　down　the　hill。　　Almost　
immediately　afterwards；　seeing　a　road…mender　who　was　standing　
holding　his　cap　in　his　hand　…　which　he　had　no　doubt　just　
reverentially　doffed　…　I　said　in　Welsh：　　〃Who　are　those　ladies？〃

〃Merched　Sir　Charles　…　the　daughters　of　Sir　Charles；〃　he　replied。

〃And　is　the　gentleman　their　brother？〃

〃No！　the　brother　is　in　the　Crim　…　fighting　with　the　Roosiaid。　　I　
don't　know　who　yon　gentleman　be。〃

〃Where　does　Sir　Charles　live？〃

〃Down　in　the　Dyfryn；　not　far　from　Basallaig。〃

〃If　I　were　to　go　and　see　him；〃　I　said；　〃do　you　think　he　would　give　
me　a　cup　of　ale？〃

〃I　daresay　he　would；　he　has　given　me　one　many　a　time。〃

I　soon　reached　Basallaig；　a　pleasant　village　standing　in　a　valley　
and　nearly　surrounded　by　the　groves　of　Sir　Charles　Morgan。　　Seeing　
a　decent　public…house　I　said　to　myself；　〃I　think　I　shall　step　in　
and　have　my　ale　here；　and　not　go　running　after　Sir　Charles；　whom　
perhaps　after　all　I　shouldn't　find　at　home。〃　　So　I　went　in　and　
called　for　a　pint　of　ale。　　Over　my　ale　I　trifled　for　about　half…an…
hour；　then　paying　my　groat　I　got　up　and　set　off　for　Newport；　in　the　
midst　of　a　thick　mist　which　had　suddenly　come　on；　and　which　
speedily　wetted　me　nearly　to　the　skin。

I　reached　Newport　at　about　half…past　four；　and　put　up　at　a　large　
and　handsome　inn　called　the　King's　Head。　　During　dinner　the　waiter；　
unasked；　related　to　me　his　history。　　He　was　a　short　thick　fellow　of　
about　forty；　with　a　very　disturbed　and　frightened　expression　of　
countenance。　　He　said　that　he　was　a　native　of　Brummagen；　and　had　
lived　very　happily　at　an　inn　there　as　waiter；　but　at　length　had　
allowed　himself　to　be　spirited　away　to　an　establishment　high　up　in　
Wales　amidst　the　scenery。　　That　very　few　visitors　came　to　the　
establishment；　which　was　in　a　place　so　awfully　lonesome　that　he　
soon　became　hipped；　and　was　more　than　once　half　in　a　mind　to　fling　
himself　into　a　river　which　ran　before　the　door　and　moaned　dismally。　　
That　at　last　he　thought　his　best　plan　would　be　to　decamp；　and　
accordingly　took　French　leave　early　one　morning。　　That　after　many　
frights　and　much　fatigue　he　had　found　himself　at　Newport；　and　taken　
service　at　the　King's　Head；　but　did　not　feel　comfortable；　and　was　
frequently　visited　at　night　by　dreadful　dreams。　　That　he　should　
take　the　first　opportunity　of　getting　to　Brummagen；　though　he　was　
afraid　that　he　should　not　be　able　to　get　into　his　former　place；　
owing　to　his　ungrateful　behaviour。　　He　then　uttered　a　rather　
eloquent　eulogium　on　the　beauties　of　the　black　capital；　and　wound　
up　all　by　saying　that　he　would　rather　be　a　brazier's　dog　at　
Brummagen　than　head　waiter　at　the　best　establishment　in　Wales。

After　dinner　I　took　up　a　newspaper　and　found　in　it　an　account　of　
the　battle　of　Inkerman；　which　appeared　to　have　been　fought　on　the　
fifth　of　November；　the　very　day　on　which　I　had　ascended　Plynlimmon。　　
I　was　sorry　to　find　that　my　countrymen　had　suffered　dreadfully；　and　
would　have　been　utterly　destroyed　but　for　the　opportune　arrival　of　
the　French。　　〃In　my　childhood；〃　said　I；　〃the　Russians　used　to　help　
us　against　the　French；　now　the　French　help　us　against　the　Russians。　　
Who　knows　but　before　I　die　I　may　see　the　Russians　helping　the　
French　against　us？〃



CHAPTER　CVIII



Town　of　Newport　…　The　Usk　…　Note　of　Recognition　…　An　Old　
Acquaintance　…　Connamara　Quean　…　The　Wake　…　The　Wild　Irish　…　The　
Tramping　Life　…　Business　and　Prayer　…　Methodists　…　Good　Counsel。


NEWPORT　is　a　large　town　in　Monmouthshire；　and　had　once　walls　and　a　
castle。　　It　is　called　in　Welsh　Cas　Newydd　ar　Wysg；　or　the　New　
Castle　upon　the　Usk。　　It　stands　some　miles　below　Caerlleon　ar　Wysg；　
and　was　probably　built　when　that　place；　at　one　time　one　of　the　most　
considerable　towns　in　Britain；　began　to　fall　into　decay。　　The　Wysg　
or　Usk　has　its　source　among　some　wild　hills　in　the　south…west　of　
Breconshire；　and；　after　absorbing　several　smaller　streams；　amongst　
which　is　the　Hondu；　at　the　mouth　of　which　Brecon　stands；　which　on　
that　account　is　called　in　Welsh　Aber　Hondu；　and　traversing　the　
whole　of　Monmouthshire；　enters　the　Bristol　Channel　near　Newport；　to