wild wales-第13章

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I　found　my　guide　a　first…rate　walker　and　a　good　botanist；　knowing　
the　names　of　all　the　plants　and　trees　in　Welsh。　　By　the　time　we　
returned　to　Llangollen　I　had　formed　a　very　high　opinion　of　him；　in　
which　I　was　subsequently　confirmed　by　what　I　saw　of　him　during　the　
period　of　our　acquaintance；　which　was　of　some　duration。　　He　was　
very　honest；　disinterested；　and　exceedingly　good…humoured。　　It　is　
true；　he　had　his　little　skits　occasionally　at　the　Church；　and　
showed　some　marks　of　hostility　to　the　church　cat；　more　especially　
when　he　saw　it　mounted　on　my　shoulders；　for　the　creature　soon　began　
to　take　liberties；　and　in　less　than　a　week　after　my　arrival　at　the　
cottage；　generally　mounted　on　my　back；　when　it　saw　me　reading　or　
writing；　for　the　sake　of　the　warmth。　　But　setting　aside　those　same　
skits　at　the　Church；　and　that　dislike　of　the　church　cat；　venial　
trifles　after　all；　and　easily　to　be　accounted　for；　on　the　score　of　
his　religious　education；　I　found　nothing　to　blame；　and　much　to　
admire；　in　John　Jones；　the　Calvinistic　Methodist　of　Llangollen。



CHAPTER　XIII



Divine　Service　…　Llangollen　Bells　…　Iolo　Goch　…　The　Abbey　…　Twm　o'r　
Nant　…　Holy　Well　…　Thomas　Edwards


SUNDAY　arrived　…　a　Sunday　of　unclouded　sunshine。　　We　attended　
Divine　service　at　church　in　the　morning。　　The　congregation　was　very　
numerous；　but　to　all　appearance　consisted　almost　entirely　of　
English　visitors；　like　ourselves。　　There　were　two　officiating　
clergymen；　father　and　son。　　They　both　sat　in　a　kind　of　oblong　
pulpit　on　the　southern　side　of　the　church；　at　a　little　distance　
below　the　altar。　　The　service　was　in　English；　and　the　elder　
gentleman　preached；　there　was　good　singing　and　chanting。

After　dinner　I　sat　in　an　arbour　in　the　perllan；　thinking　of　many　
things；　amongst　others；　spiritual。　　Whilst　thus　engaged；　the　sound　
of　the　church　bells　calling　people　to　afternoon　service　came　upon　
my　ears。　　I　listened；　and　thought　I　had　never　heard　bells　with　so　
sweet　a　sound。　　I　had　heard　them　in　the　morning；　but　without　paying　
much　attention　to　them；　but　as　I　now　sat　in　the　umbrageous　arbour；　
I　was　particularly　struck　with　them。　　Oh　how　sweetly　their　voice　
mingled　with　the　low　rush　of　the　river；　at　the　bottom　of　the　
perllan。　　I　subsequently　found　that　the　bells　of　Llangollen　were　
celebrated　for　their　sweetness。　　Their　merit　indeed　has　even　been　
admitted　by　an　enemy；　for　a　poet　of　the　Calvinistic　Methodist　
persuasion；　one　who　calls　himself　Einion　Du；　in　a　very　beautiful　
ode；　commencing　with　…


〃Tangnefedd　i　Llangollen；〃


says　that　in　no　part　of　the　world　do　bells　call　people　so　sweetly　
to　church　as　those　of　Llangollen　town。

In　the　evening；　at　about　half…past　six；　I　attended　service　again；　
but　without　my　family。　　This　time　the　congregation　was　not　
numerous；　and　was　composed　principally　of　poor　people。　　The　service　
and　sermon　were　now　in　Welsh；　the　sermon　was　preached　by　the　
younger　gentleman；　and　was　on　the　building　of　the　second　temple；　
and；　as　far　as　I　understood　it；　appeared　to　me　to　be　exceedingly　
good。

On　the　Monday　evening；　myself　and　family　took　a　walk　to　the　abbey。　　
My　wife　and　daughter；　who　are　fond　of　architecture　and　ruins；　were　
very　anxious　to　see　the　old　place。　　I　too　was　anxious　enough　to　see　
it；　less　from　love　of　ruins　and　ancient　architecture；　than　from　
knowing　that　a　certain　illustrious　bard　was　buried　in　its　
precincts；　of　whom　perhaps　a　short　account　will　not　be　unacceptable　
to　the　reader。

This　man；　whose　poetical　appellation　was　Iolo　Goch；　but　whose　real　
name　was　Llwyd；　was　of　a　distinguished　family；　and　Lord　of　
Llechryd。　　He　was　born　and　generally　resided　at　a　place　called　Coed　
y　Pantwn；　in　the　upper　part　of　the　Vale　of　Clwyd。　　He　was　a　warm　
friend　and　partisan　of　Owen　Glendower；　with　whom　he　lived；　at　
Sycharth；　for　some　years　before　the　great　Welsh　insurrection；　and　
whom　he　survived；　dying　at　an　extreme　old　age　beneath　his　own　roof…
tree　at　Coed　y　Pantwn。　　He　composed　pieces　of　great　excellence　on　
various　subjects；　but　the　most　remarkable　of　his　compositions　are　
decidedly　certain　ones　connected　with　Owen　Glendower。　　Amongst　
these　is　one　in　which　he　describes　the　Welsh　chieftain's　mansion　at　
Sycharth；　and　his　hospitable　way　of　living　at　that　his　favourite　
residence；　and　another　in　which　he　hails　the　advent　of　the　comet；　
which　made　its　appearance　in　the　month　of　March；　fourteen　hundred　
and　two；　as　of　good　augury　to　his　darling　hero。

It　was　from　knowing　that　this　distinguished　man　lay　buried　in　the　
precincts　of　the　old　edifice；　that　I　felt　so　anxious　to　see　it。　　
After　walking　about　two　miles　we　perceived　it　on　our　right　hand。

The　abbey　of　the　vale　of　the　cross　stands　in　a　green　meadow；　in　a　
corner　near　the　north…west　end　of　the　valley　of　Llangollen。　　The　
vale　or　glen；　in　which　the　abbey　stands；　takes　its　name　from　a　
certain　ancient　pillar　or　cross；　called　the　pillar　of　Eliseg；　and　
which　is　believed　to　have　been　raised　over　the　body　of　an　ancient　
British　chieftain　of　that　name；　who　perished　in　battle　against　the　
Saxons；　about　the　middle　of　the　tenth　century。　　In　the　Papist　times　
the　abbey　was　a　place　of　great　pseudo…sanctity；　wealth　and　
consequence。　　The　territory　belonging　to　it　was　very　extensive；　
comprising；　amongst　other　districts；　the　vale　of　Llangollen　and　the　
mountain　region　to　the　north　of　it；　called　the　Eglwysig　Rocks；　
which　region　derived　its　name　Eglwysig；　or　ecclesiastical；　from　the　
circumstance　of　its　pertaining　to　the　abbey　of　the　vale　of　the　
cross。

We　first　reached　that　part　of　the　building　which　had　once　been　the　
church；　having　previously　to　pass　through　a　farmyard；　in　which　was　
abundance　of　dirt　and　mire。

The　church　fronts　the　west　and　contains　the　remains　of　a　noble　
window；　beneath　which　is　a　gate；　which　we　found　locked。　　Passing　on　
we　came　to　that　part　where　the　monks　had　lived；　but　which　now　
served　as　a　farmhouse；　an　open　doorway　exhibited　to　us　an　ancient　
gloomy　hall；　where　was　some　curious　old…fashioned　furniture；　
particularly　an　ancient　rack；　in　which　stood　a　goodly　range　of　
pewter　trenchers。　　A　respectable　dame　kindly　welcomed　us　and　
invited　us　to　sit　down。　　We　entered　into　conversation　with　her；　and　
asked　her　name；　which　she　said　was　Evans。　　I　spoke　some　Welsh　to　
her；　which　pleased　her。　　She　said　that　Welsh　people　at　the　present　
day　were　so　full　of　fine　airs　that　they　were　above　speaking　the　old　
language　…　but　that　such　was　not　the　case　formerly；　and　that　she　
had　known　a　Mrs　Price；　who　was　housekeeper　to　the　Countess　of　
Mornington；　who　lived　in　London　upwards　of　forty　years；　and　at　the　
end　of　that　time　prided　herself　upon　speaking　as　good　Welsh　as　she　
did　when　a　girl。　　I　spoke　to　her　about　the　abbey；　and　asked　if　she　
had　ever　heard　of　Iolo　Goch。　　She　inquired　who　he　was。　　I　told　her　
he　was　a　great　bard；　and　was　buried　in　the　abbey。　　She　said　she　had　
never　heard　of　him；　but　that　she　could　show　me　the　portrait　of　a　
great　poet；　and　going　away；　presently　returned　with　a　print　in　a　
frame。

〃There；〃　said　she；　〃is　the　portrait　of　Twm　o'r　Nant；　generally　
called　the　Welsh　Shakespeare。〃

I　looked　at　it。　　The　Welsh　Shakespeare　was　represented　sitting　at　a　
table　with　a　pen　in　his　hand；　a　cottage…latticed　window　was　behind　
him；　on　his　left　hand；　a　shelf　with　plates；　and　trenchers　behind　
him；　on　his　right。　　His　features　were　rude；　but　full　of　wild；　
strange　expression；　below　the　picture　was　the　following　couplet：…


〃Llun　Gwr　yw　llawn　gwir　Awen；
Y　Byd　a　lanwodd　o'i　Ben。〃


〃Did　you　ever　hear　of　Twm　o'r　Nant？〃　said　the　old　dame。

〃I　never　heard　of　him　by　word　of　mouth；〃　said　I；　〃but　I　know　all　
about　him　…　I　have　read　his　life　in　Welsh；　written　by　himself；　and　
a　curious　life　it　is。　　His　name　was　Thomas　Edwards；　but　he　
generally　called　himself　Twm　o'r　Nant；　or　Tom　of　the　Dingle；　
because　he　was　born　in　a　dingle；　at　a　place　called　Pen　Porchell；　in　
the　vale　of　Clwyd　…　which；　by　the　bye；　was　on　the　estate　which　once　
belonged　to　Iolo　Goch；　the　poet　I　was　speaking　to　you　about　just　
now。　　Tom　was　a　carter　by　trade；　but　once　kept　a　toll…bar　in　South　
Wales；　which；　however；　he　was　obliged　to　leave　at　the　end　of　two　
years；　owing　to　the　annoyance　which　he　experienced　from　ghosts　and　
goblins；　and　unearthly　things；　particularly　phantom　hearses；　which　
used　to　pass　through　his　gate　at　midnight　without　paying；　when　the　
gate　was　shut。〃

〃Ah；〃　said　the　dame；　〃you　know　more　about　Tom　o'r　Nant　than　I　do；　
and　was　he　not　a　great　poet？〃

〃I　daresay　he　was；〃　said　I；　〃for　the　pieces　which　he　wrote；　and　
which　he　called　Interludes；　had　a　great　run；　and　he　got　a　great　
deal　of　money　by　them；　but　I　should　say　the　lines　beneath　the　
portrait　are　more　applicable　to　the　real　Shakespeare　than　to　him。〃

〃What　do　the　lines　mean？〃　said　the　old　lady；　〃they　are　Welsh；　I　
know；　but　they　are　far　beyond　my　understanding。〃

〃They　may　be　thus　translated；〃　said　I：


〃God　in　his　head　the　Muse　instill'd；
And　from　his　head　the　world　he　fill'd。〃


〃Thank　you；　sir；〃　said　the　old　lady。　　〃I　never　found　any　one　before　
who　could　translate　them。〃　　She　then　said　she　would　show　me　some　
English　lines　written　on　the　daughter　of　a　friend　of　hers　who　was　
lately　dead；　and　put　some　printed　lines　in　a　frame　into　my　hand。　　
They　were　an　Elegy　to　Mary；　and　were　very　beautiful；　I　read　them　
aloud；　and　when　I　had　finished　she　thanked　me　and　said　she　had　no　
doubt　that　if　I　pleased　I　could　put　them　into　Welsh　…　she　then　
sighed　and　wiped　her　eyes。

On　our　enquiring　whether　we　could　see　the　interior　of　the　abbey　she　
said　we　could；　and　that　if　we　rang　a　bell　at　the　gate　a　woman　would　
come　to　us；　who　was　in　the　habit　of　showing　the　place。　　We　then　got　
up　and　bade　her　farewell　…　but　she　begged　that　we　would　stay　and　
taste　the　dwr　santaidd　of　the　holy　well。

〃What　holy　well　is　that？〃　said　I。

〃A　well；〃　said　she；　〃by　the　road's　side；　which　in　the　time　of　the　
popes　was　said　to　perform　wonderful　cures。〃

〃Let　us　taste　it　by　all　means；〃　said　I；　whereupon　she　went　out；　and　
presently　returned　with　a　tray　on　which　were　a　jug　and　tumbler；　the　
jug　filled　with　the　water　of　the　holy　well；　we　drank　some　of　the　
dwr　santaidd；　which　tasted　like　any　other　water；　and　then　after　
shaking　her　by　the　hand；　we　went　to　the　gate；　and　rang　at　the　bell。

Presently　a　woman　made　her　appearance　at　the　gate　…　she　was　
genteelly　drest；　about　the　middle　age；　rather　tall；　and　bearing　in　
her　countenance　the　traces　of　beauty。　　When　we　told　her　the　object　
of　our　coming　she　admitted　us；　and　after　locking　the　gate　conducted　
us　into　the　church。　　It　was　roofless；　and　had　nothing　remarkable　
about　it；　save　the　western　window；　which　we　had　seen　from　without。　　
Our　attendant　pointed　out　to　us　some　tombs；　and　told　us　the　names　
of　certain　great　people　whose　dust　they　contained。　　〃Can　you　tell　
us　where　Iolo　Goch　lies　interred？〃　said　I。

〃No；〃　said　she；　〃indeed　I　never　heard　of　such　a　person。〃

〃He　was　the　bard　of　Owen　Glendower；〃　said　I；　〃and　assisted　his　
cause　wonderfully　by　the　fiery　odes；　in　which　he　incited　the　Welsh　
to　rise　against　the　English。〃

〃Indeed！〃　said　she；　〃well；　I　am　sorry　to　say　that　I　never　heard　of　
him。〃

〃Are　you　Wels