wild wales-第15章

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CHAPTER　XV



The　Turf　Tavern　…　Don't　Understand　…　The　Best　Welsh　…　The　Maids　of　
Merion　…　Old　and　New　…　Ruthyn　…　The　Ash　Yggdrasill。


WE　now　emerged　from　the　rough　and　narrow　way　which　we　had　followed　
for　some　miles；　upon　one　much　wider；　and　more　commodious；　which　my　
guide　told　me　was　the　coach　road　from　Wrexham　to　Ruthyn；　and　going　
on　a　little　farther　we　came　to　an　avenue　of　trees　which　shaded　the　
road。　　It　was　chiefly　composed　of　ash；　sycamore　and　birch；　and　
looked　delightfully　cool　and　shady。　　I　asked　my　guide　if　it　
belonged　to　any　gentleman's　house。　　He　told　me　that　it　did　not；　but　
to　a　public…house；　called　Tafarn　Tywarch；　which　stood　near　the　end；　
a　little　way　off　the　road。　　　〃Why　is　it　called　Tafarn　Tywarch？〃　
said　I；　struck　by　the　name　which　signifies　〃the　tavern　of　turf。〃

〃It　was　called　so；　sir；〃　said　John；　〃because　it　was　originally　
merely　a　turf　hovel；　though　at　present　it　consists　of　good　brick　
and　mortar。〃

〃Can　we　breakfast　there；〃　said　I；　〃for　I　feel　both　hungry　and　
thirsty？〃

〃Oh　yes；　sir；〃　said　John；　〃I　have　heard　there　is　good　cheese　and　
cwrw　there。〃

We　turned　off　to　the　〃tafarn；〃　which　was　a　decent　public…house　of　
rather　an　antiquated　appearance。　　We　entered　a　sanded　kitchen；　and　
sat　down　by　a　large　oaken　table。　　〃Please　to　bring　us　some　bread；　
cheese　and　ale；〃　said　I　in　Welsh　to　an　elderly　woman；　who　was　
moving　about。

〃Sar？〃　said　she。

〃Bring　us　some　bread；　cheese　and　ale；〃　I　repeated　in　Welsh。

〃I　do　not　understand　you；　sar；〃　said　she　in　English。

〃Are　you　Welsh？〃　said　I　in　English。

〃Yes；　I　am　Welsh！〃

〃And　can　you　speak　Welsh？〃

〃Oh　yes；　and　the　best。〃

〃Then　why　did　you　not　bring　what　I　asked　for？〃

〃Because　I　did　not　understand　you。〃

〃Tell　her；〃　said　I　to　John　Jones；　〃to　bring　us　some　bread；　cheese　
and　ale。〃

〃Come；　aunt；〃　said　John；　〃bring　us　bread　and　cheese　and　a　quart　of　
the　best　ale。〃

The　woman　looked　as　if　she　was　going　to　reply　in　the　tongue　in　
which　he　addressed　her；　then　faltered；　and　at　last　said　in　English　
that　she　did　not　understand。

〃Now；〃　said　I；　〃you　are　fairly　caught：　　this　man　is　a　Welshman；　and　
moreover　understands　no　language　but　Welsh。〃

〃Then　how　can　he　understand　you？〃　said　she。

〃Because　I　speak　Welsh；〃　said　I。

〃Then　you　are　a　Welshman？〃　said　she。

〃No　I　am　not；〃　said　I；　〃I　am　English。〃

〃So　I　thought；〃　said　she；　〃and　on　that　account　I　could　not　
understand　you。〃

〃You　mean　that　you　would　not；〃　said　I。　　〃Now　do　you　choose　to　bring　
what　you　are　bidden？〃

〃Come；　aunt；〃　said　John；　〃don't　be　silly　and　cenfigenus；　but　bring　
the　breakfast。〃

The　woman　stood　still　for　a　moment　or　two；　and　then　biting　her　lips　
went　away。

〃What　made　the　woman　behave　in　this　manner？〃　said　I　to　my　
companion。

〃Oh；　she　was　cenfigenus；　sir；〃　he　replied；　〃she　did　not　like　that　
an　English　gentleman　should　understand　Welsh；　she　was　envious；　you　
will　find　a　dozen　or　two　like　her　in　Wales；　but　let　us　hope　not　
more。〃

Presently　the　woman　returned　with　the　bread；　cheese　and　ale；　which　
she　placed　on　the　table。

〃Oh；〃　said　I；　〃you　have　brought　what　was　bidden；　though　it　was　
never　mentioned　to　you　in　English；　which　shows　that　your　pretending　
not　to　understand　was　all　a　sham。　　What　made　you　behave　so？〃

〃Why　I　thought；〃　said　the　woman；　〃that　no　Englishman　could　speak　
Welsh；　that　his　tongue　was　too　short。〃

〃Your　having　thought　so；〃　said　I；　〃should　not　have　made　you　tell　a　
falsehood；　saying　that　you　did　not　understand；　when　you　knew　that　
you　understood　very　well。　　See　what　a　disgraceful　figure　you　cut。〃

〃I　cut　no　disgraced　figure；〃　said　the　woman：　　〃after　all；　what　
right　have　the　English　to　come　here　speaking　Welsh；　which　belongs　
to　the　Welsh　alone；　who　in　fact　are　the　only　people　that　understand　
it。〃

〃Are　you　sure　that　you　understand　Welsh？〃　said　I。

〃I　should　think　so；〃　said　the　woman；　〃for　I　come　from　the　Vale　of　
Clwyd；　where　they　speak　the　best　Welsh　in　the　world；　the　Welsh　of　
the　Bible。〃

〃What　do　they　call　a　salmon　in　the　Vale　of　Clwyd？〃　said　I。

〃What　do　they　call　a　salmon？〃　said　the　woman。　　〃Yes；〃　said　I；　〃when　
they　speak　Welsh。〃

〃They　call　it　…　they　call　it　…　why　a　salmon。〃

〃Pretty　Welsh！〃　said　I。　　〃I　thought　you　did　not　understand　Welsh。〃

〃Well；　what　do　you　call　it？〃　said　the　woman。

〃Eawg；〃　said　I；　〃that　is　the　word　for　a　salmon　in　general　…　but　
there　are　words　also　to　show　the　sex　…　when　you　speak　of　a　male　
salmon　you　should　say　cemyw；　when　of　a　female　hwyfell。〃

〃I　never　heard　the　words　before；〃　said　the　woman；　〃nor　do　I　believe　
them　to　be　Welsh。〃

〃You　say　so；〃　said　I；　〃because　you　do　not　understand　Welsh。〃

〃I　not　understand　Welsh！〃　said　she。　　〃I'll　soon　show　you　that　I　do。　　
Come；　you　have　asked　me　the　word　for　salmon　in　Welsh；　I　will　now　
ask　you　the　word　for　salmon…trout。　　Now　tell　me　that；　and　I　will　
say　you　know　something　of　the　matter。〃

〃A　tinker　of　my　country　can　tell　you　that；〃　said　I。　　〃The　word　for　
salmon…trout　is　gleisiad。〃

The　countenance　of　the　woman　fell。

〃I　see　you　know　something　about　the　matter；〃　said　she；　〃there　are　
very　few　hereabouts；　though　so　near　to　the　Vale　of　Clwyd；　who　know　
the　word　for　salmon…trout　in　Welsh；　I　shouldn't　have　known　the　word　
myself；　but　for　the　song　which　says：


Glan　yw'r　gleisiad　yn　y　llyn。〃


〃And　who　wrote　that　song？〃　said　I。

〃I　don't　know；〃　said　the　woman。

〃But　I　do；〃　said　I；　〃one　Lewis　Morris　wrote　it。'

〃Oh；〃　said　she；　〃I　have　heard　all　about　Huw　Morris。〃

〃I　was　not　talking　of　Huw　Morris；〃　said　I；　〃but　Lewis　Morris；　who　
lived　long　after　Huw　Morris。　　He　was　a　native　of　Anglesea；　but　
resided　for　some　time　in　Merionethshire；　and　whilst　there　composed　
a　song　about　the　Morwynion　bro　Meirionydd　or　the　lasses　of　County　
Merion　of　a　great　many　stanzas；　in　one　of　which　the　gleisiad　is　
mentioned。　　Here　it　is　in　English：


〃'Full　fair　the　gleisiad　in　the　flood；
Which　sparkles　'neath　the　summer's　sun；
And　fair　the　thrush　in　green　abode
Spreading　his　wings　in　sportive　fun；
But　fairer　look　if　truth　be　spoke；
The　maids　of　County　Merion。'〃


The　woman　was　about　to　reply；　but　I　interrupted　her。

〃There；〃　said　I；　〃pray　leave　us　to　our　breakfast；　and　the　next　time　
you　feel　inclined　to　talk　nonsense　about　no　Englishman's　
understanding　Welsh；　or　knowing　anything　of　Welsh　matters；　remember　
that　it　was　an　Englishman　who　told　you　the　Welsh　word　for　salmon；　
and　likewise　the　name　of　the　Welshman　who　wrote　the　song　in　which　
the　gleisiad　is　mentioned。〃

The　ale　was　very　good　and　so　were　the　bread　and　cheese。　　The　ale　
indeed　was　so　good　that　I　ordered　a　second　jug。　　Observing　a　large　
antique　portrait　over　the　mantel…piece　I　got　up　to　examine　it。　　It　
was　that　of　a　gentleman　in　a　long　wig；　and　underneath　it　was　
painted　in　red　letters　〃Sir　Watkin　Wynn：　　1742。〃　　It　was　doubtless　
the　portrait　of　the　Sir　Watkin　who；　in　1745　was　committed　to　the　
tower　under　suspicion　of　being　suspected　of　holding　Jacobite　
opinions；　and　favouring　the　Pretender。　　The　portrait　was　a　very　
poor　daub；　but　I　looked　at　it　long　and　attentively　as　a　memorial　of　
Wales　at　a　critical　and　long　past　time。

When　we　had　dispatched　the　second　jug　of　ale；　and　I　had　paid　the　
reckoning；　we　departed　and　soon　came　to　where　stood　a　turnpike　
house　at　a　junction　of　two　roads；　to　each　of　which　was　a　gate。

〃Now；　sir；〃　said　John　Jones；　〃the　way　straight　forward　is　the　

ffordd　newydd；　and　the　one　on　our　right　hand　is　the　hen　ffordd。　　
Which　shall　we　follow；　the　new　or　the　old？〃

〃There　is　a　proverb　in　the　Gerniweg；〃　said　I；　〃which　was　the　
language　of　my　forefathers；　saying；　'ne'er　leave　the　old　way　for　
the　new；'　we　will　therefore　go　by　the　hen　ffordd。〃

〃Very　good；　sir；〃　said　my　guide；　〃that　is　the　path　I　always　go；　for　
it　is　the　shortest。〃　　So　we　turned　to　the　right　and　followed　the　
old　road。　　Perhaps；　however；　it　would　have　been　well　had　we　gone　by　
the　new；　for　the　hen　ffordd　was　a　very　dull　and　uninteresting　road；　
whereas　the　ffordd　newydd；　as　I　long　subsequently　found；　is　one　of　
the　grandest　passes　in　Wales。　　After　we　had　walked　a　short　distance　
my　guide　said；　〃Now；　sir；　if　you　will　turn　a　little　way　to　the　left　
hand　I　will　show　you　a　house；　built　in　the　old　style；　such　a　house；　
sir；　as　I　daresay　the　original　turf　tavern　was。〃　　Then　leading　me　a　
little　way　from　the　road　he　showed　me；　under　a　hollow　bank；　a　small　
cottage　covered　with　flags。

〃That　is　a　house；　sir；　built　yn　yr　hen　dull　in　the　old　fashion；　of　
earth；　flags　and　wattles　and　in　one　night。　　It　was　the　custom　of　
old　when　a　house　was　to　be　built；　for　the　people　to　assemble；　and　
to　build　it　in　one　night　of　common　materials；　close　at　hand。　　The　
custom　is　not　quite　dead。　　I　was　at　the　building　of　this　myself；　
and　a　merry　building　it　was。　　The　cwrw　da　passed　quickly　about　
among　the　builders；　I　assure　you。〃　　We　returned　to　the　road；　and　
when　we　had　ascended　a　hill；　my　companion　told　me　that　if　I　looked　
to　the　left　I　should　see　the　Vale　of　Clwyd。

I　looked　and　perceived　an　extensive　valley　pleasantly　dotted　with　
trees　and　farm…houses；　and　bounded　on　the　west　by　a　range　of　hills。

〃It　is　a　fine　valley；　sir；〃　said　my　guide；　〃four　miles　wide　and　
twenty　long；　and　contains　the　richest　land　in　all　Wales。　　Cheese　
made　in　that　valley；　sir；　fetches　a　penny　a　pound　more　than　cheese　
made　in　any　other　valley。〃

〃And　who　owns　it？〃　said　I。

〃Various　are　the　people　who　own　it；　sir；　but　Sir　Watkin　owns　the　
greater　part。〃

We　went　on；　passed　by　a　village　called　Craig　Vychan；　where　we　saw　a　
number　of　women　washing　at　a　fountain；　and　by　a　gentle　descent　soon　
reached　the　Vale　of　Clwyd。

After　walking　about　a　mile　we　left　the　road　and　proceeded　by　a　
footpath　across　some　meadows。　　The　meadows　were　green　and　
delightful　and　were　intersected　by　a　beautiful　stream。　　Trees　in　
abundance　were　growing　about；　some　of　which　were　oaks。　　We　passed　
by　a　little　white　chapel　with　a　small　graveyard　before　it；　which　my　
guide　told　me　belonged　to　the　Baptists；　and　shortly　afterwards　
reached　Ruthyn。

We　went　to　an　inn　called　the　Crossed　Foxes；　where　we　refreshed　
ourselves　with　ale。　　We　then　sallied　forth　to　look　about；　after　I　
had　ordered　a　duck　to　be　got　ready　for　dinner；　at　three　o'clock。　　
Ruthyn　stands　on　a　hill　above　the　Clwyd；　which　in　the　summer　is　a　
mere　brook；　but　in　the　winter　a　considerable　stream；　being　then　fed　
with　the　watery　tribute　of　a　hundred　hills。　　About　three　miles　to　
the　north　is　a　range　of　lofty　mountains；　dividing　the　shire　of　
Denbigh　from　that　of　Flint；　amongst　which；　almost　parallel　with　the　
town；　and　lifting　its　head　high　above　the　rest；　is　the　mighty　Moel　
Vamagh；　the　mother　heap；　which　I　had　seen　from　Chester。　　Ruthyn　is　
a　dull　town；　but　it　possessed　plenty　of　interest　to　me；　for　as　I　
strolled　with　my　guide　about　the　streets　I　remembered　that　I　was　
treading　the　ground　which　the　wild　bands　of　Glendower　had　trod；　and　
where　the　great　struggle　commenced；　which　for　fourteen　years　
convulsed　Wales；　and　for　some　time　shook　England　to　its　centre。　　
After　I　had　satisfied　myself　with　wandering　about　the　town　we　
proceeded　to　the　castle。

The　original　castle　suffered　terribly　in　the　civil　wars；　it　was　
held　for　wre