wild wales-第16章

按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！


proceeded　to　the　castle。

The　original　castle　suffered　terribly　in　the　civil　wars；　it　was　
held　for　wretched　Charles；　and　was　nearly　demolished　by　the　cannon　
of　Cromwell；　which　were　planted　on　a　hill　about　half　a　mile　
distant。　　The　present　castle　is　partly　modern　and　partly　ancient。　　
It　belongs　to　a　family　of　the　name　of　W…　who　reside　in　the　modern　
part；　and　who　have　the　character　of　being　kind；　hospitable　and　
intellectual　people。　　We　only　visited　the　ancient　part；　over　which　
we　were　shown　by　a　woman；　who　hearing　us　speaking　Welsh；　spoke　
Welsh　herself　during　the　whole　time　she　was　showing　us　about。　　She　
showed　us　dark　passages；　a　gloomy　apartment　in　which　Welsh　kings　
and　great　people　had　been　occasionally　confined；　that　strange　
memorial　of　the　good　old　times；　a　drowning　pit；　and　a　large　prison　
room；　in　the　middle　of　which　stood　a　singular…looking　column；　
scrawled　with　odd　characters；　which　had　of　yore　been　used　for　a　
whipping…post；　another　memorial　of　the　good　old　baronial　times；　so　
dear　to　romance　readers　and　minds　of　sensibility。　　Amongst　other　
things　which　our　conductor　showed　us　was　an　immense　onen　or　ash；　it　
stood　in　one　of　the　courts　and　measured；　as　she　said；　pedwar　y　
haner　o　ladd　yn　ei　gwmpas；　or　four　yards　and　a　half　in　girth。　　As　I　
gazed　on　the　mighty　tree　I　thought　of　the　Ash　Yggdrasill　mentioned　
in　the　Voluspa；　or　prophecy　of　Vola；　that　venerable　poem　which　
contains　so　much　relating　to　the　mythology　of　the　ancient　Norse。

We　returned　to　the　inn　and　dined。　　The　duck　was　capital；　and　I　
asked　John　Jones　if　he　had　ever　tasted　a　better。　　〃Never；　sir；〃　
said　he；　〃for　to　tell　you　the　truth；　I　never　tasted　a　duck　before。〃　　
〃Rather　singular；〃　said　I。　　〃What；　that　I　should　not　have　tasted　
duck？　　Oh；　sir；　the　singularity　is；　that　I　should　now　be　tasting　
duck。　　Duck　in　Wales；　sir；　is　not　fare　for　poor　weavers。　　This　is　
the　first　duck　I　ever　tasted；　and　though　I　never　taste　another；　as　
I　probably　never　shall；　I　may　consider　myself　a　fortunate　weaver；　
for　I　can　now　say　I　have　tasted　duck　once　in　my　life。　　Few　weavers　
in　Wales　are　ever　able　to　say　as　much。〃



CHAPTER　XVI



Baptist　Tomb…Stone　…　The　Toll…Bar　…　Rebecca　…　The　Guitar。


THE　sun　was　fast　declining　as　we　left　Ruthyn。　　We　retraced　our　
steps　across　the　fields。　　When　we　came　to　the　Baptist　Chapel　I　got　
over　the　wall　of　the　little　yard　to　look　at　the　grave…stones。　　
There　were　only　three。　　The　inscriptions　upon　them　were　all　in　
Welsh。　　The　following　stanza　was　on　the　stone　of　Jane；　the　daughter　
of　Elizabeth　Williams；　who　died　on　the　second　of　May；　1843：


〃Er　myn'd　i'r　oerllyd　annedd
Dros　dymher　hir　i　orwedd；
Cwyd　i'r　lan　o'r　gwely　bridd
Ac　hyfryd　fydd　ei　hagwedd。〃


which　is


〃Though　thou　art　gone　to　dwelling　cold
To　lie　in　mould　for　many　a　year；
Thou　shalt；　at　length；　from　earthy　bed；
Uplift　thy　head　to　blissful　sphere。〃


As　we　went　along　I　stopped　to　gaze　at　a　singular…looking　hill　
forming　part　of　the　mountain　range　on　the　east。　　I　asked　John　Jones　
what　its　name　was；　but　he　did　not　know。　　As　we　were　standing　
talking　about　it；　a　lady　came　up　from　the　direction　in　which　our　
course　lay。　　John　Jones；　touching　his　hat　to　her；　said：

〃Madam；　this　gwr　boneddig　wishes　to　know　the　name　of　that　moel；　
perhaps　you　can　tell　him。〃

〃Its　name　is　Moel　Agrik；〃　said　the　lady；　addressing　me　in　English。

〃Does　that　mean　Agricola's　hill？〃　said　I。

〃It　does；〃　said　she；　〃and　there　is　a　tradition　that　the　Roman　
General　Agricola；　when　he　invaded　these　parts；　pitched　his　camp　on　
that　moel。　　The　hill　is　spoken　of　by　Pennant。〃

〃Thank　you；　madam；〃　said　I；　〃perhaps　you　can　tell　me　the　name　of　
the　delightful　grounds　in　which　we　stand；　supposing　they　have　a　
name？〃

〃They　are　called　Oaklands；〃　said　the　lady。

〃A　very　proper　name；〃　said　I；　〃for　there　is　plenty　of　oaks　growing　
about。　　But　why　are　they　called　by　a　Saxon　name；　for　Oaklands　is　
Saxon？〃

〃Because；〃　said　the　lady；　〃when　the　grounds　were　first　planted　with　
trees　they　belonged　to　an　English　family。〃

〃Thank　you；〃　said　I；　and；　taking　off　my　hat；　I　departed　with　my　
guide。　　I　asked　him　her　name；　but　he　could　not　tell　me。　　Before　she　
was　out　of　sight；　however；　we　met　a　labourer　of　whom　John　Jones　
enquired　her　name。

〃Her　name　is　W…s；〃　said　the　man；　〃and　a　good　lady　she　is。〃

〃Is　she　Welsh？〃　said　I。

〃Pure　Welsh；　master；〃　said　the　man。　　〃Purer　Welsh　flesh　and　blood　
need　not　be。〃

Nothing　farther　worth　relating　occurred　till　we　reached　the　toll…
bar　at　the　head　of　the　hen　ffordd；　by　which　time　the　sun　was　almost　
gone　down。　　We　found　the　master　of　the　gate；　his　wife　and　son　
seated　on　a　bench　before　the　door。　　The　woman　had　a　large　book　on　
her　lap；　in　which　she　was　reading　by　the　last　light　of　the　
departing　orb。　　I　gave　the　group　the　sele　of　the　evening　in　
English；　which　they　all　returned；　the　woman　looking　up　from　her　
book。

〃Is　that　volume　the　Bible？〃　said　I。

〃It　is；　sir；〃　said　the　woman。

〃May　I　look　at　it？〃　said　I。

〃Certainly；〃　said　the　woman；　and　placed　the　book　in　my　hand。　　It　
was　a　magnificent　Welsh　Bible；　but　without　the　title…page。

〃That　book　must　be　a　great　comfort　to　you；〃　said　I　to　her。

〃Very　great；〃　said　she。　　〃I　know　not　what　we　should　do　without　it　
in　the　long　winter　evenings。〃

〃Of　what　faith　are　you？〃　said　I。

〃We　are　Methodists；〃　she　replied。

〃Then　you　are　of　the　same　faith　as　my　friend　here；〃　said　I。

〃Yes；　yes；〃　said　she；　〃we　are　aware　of　that。　　We　all　know　honest　
John　Jones。〃

After　we　had　left　the　gate　I　asked　John　Jones　whether　he　had　ever　
heard　of　Rebecca　of　the　toll…gates。

〃Oh；　yes；〃　said　he；　〃I　have　heard　of　that　chieftainess。〃

〃And　who　was　she？〃　said　I。

〃I　cannot　say；　sir；　I　never　saw　her；　nor　any　one　who　had　seen　her。　　
Some　say　that　there　were　a　hundred　Rebeccas；　and　all　of　them　men　
dressed　in　women's　clothes；　who　went　about　at　night；　at　the　head　of　
bands　to　break　the　gates。　　Ah；　sir；　something　of　the　kind　was　
almost　necessary　at　that　time。　　I　am　a　friend　of　peace；　sir；　no　
head…breaker；　house…breaker；　nor　gate…breaker；　but　I　can　hardly　
blame　what　was　done　at　that　time；　under　the　name　of　Rebecca。　　You　
have　no　idea　how　the　poor　Welsh　were　oppressed　by　those　gates；　aye；　
and　the　rich　too。　　The　little　people　and　farmers　could　not　carry　
their　produce　to　market　owing　to　the　exactions　at　the　gates；　which　
devoured　all　the　profit　and　sometimes　more。　　So　that　the　markets　
were　not　half　supplied；　and　people　with　money　could　frequently　not　
get　what　they　wanted。　　Complaints　were　made　to　government；　which　
not　being　attended　to；　Rebecca　and　her　byddinion　made　their　
appearance　at　night；　and　broke　the　gates　to　pieces　with　sledge…
hammers；　and　everybody　said　it　was　gallant　work；　everybody　save　the　
keepers　of　the　gates　and　the　proprietors。　　Not　only　the　poor　but　
the　rich；　said　so。　　Aye；　and　I　have　heard　that　many　a　fine　young　
gentleman　had　a　hand　in　the　work；　and　went　about　at　night　at　the　
head　of　a　band　dressed　as　Rebecca。　　Well；　sir；　those　breakings　were　
acts　of　violence；　I　don't　deny；　but　they　did　good；　for　the　system　
is　altered；　such　impositions　are　no　longer　practised　at　gates　as　
were　before　the　time　of　Rebecca。〃

〃Were　any　people　ever　taken　up　and　punished　for　those　nocturnal　
breakings？〃　said　I。

〃No；　sir；　and　I　have　heard　say　that　nobody's　being　taken　up　was　a　
proof　that　the　rich　approved　of　the　work　and　had　a　hand　in　it。〃

Night　had　come　on　by　the　time　we　reached　the　foot　of　the　huge　hills　
we　had　crossed　in　the　morning。　　We　toiled　up　the　ascent；　and　after　
crossing　the　level　ground　on　the　top；　plunged　down　the　bwlch　
between　walking　and　running；　occasionally　stumbling；　for　we　were　
nearly　in　complete　darkness；　and　the　bwlch　was　steep　and　stony。　　We　
more　than　once　passed　people　who　gave　us　the　n's　da；　the　hissing　
night　salutation　of　the　Welsh。　　At　length　I　saw　the　Abbey　looming　
amidst　the　darkness；　and　John　Jones　said　that；　we　were　just　above　
the　fountain。　　We　descended；　and　putting　my　head　down　I　drank　
greedily　of　the　dwr　santaidd；　my　guide　following　my　example。　　We　
then　proceeded　on　our　way；　and　in　about　half…an…hour　reached　
Llangollen。　　I　took　John　Jones　home　with　me。　　We　had　a　cheerful　cup　
of　tea。　　Henrietta　played　on　the　guitar；　and　sang　a　Spanish　song；　
to　the　great　delight　of　John　Jones；　who　at　about　ten　o'clock　
departed　contented　and　happy　to　his　own　dwelling。



CHAPTER　XVII



John　Jones　and　his　Bundle　…　A　Good　Lady　…　The　Irishman's　Dingle　…　
Ab　Gwilym　and　the　Mist　…　The　Kitchen　…　The　Two　Individuals　…　The　
Horse…Dealer　…　I　can　manage　him　…　The　Mist　Again。


THE　following　day　was　gloomy。　　In　the　evening　John　Jones　made　his　
appearance　with　a　bundle　under　his　arm；　and　an　umbrella　in　his　
hand。

〃Sir；〃　said　he；　〃I　am　going　across　the　mountain　with　it　piece　of　
weaving　work；　for　the　man　on　the　other　side；　who　employs　me。　　
Perhaps　you　would　like　to　go　with　me；　as　you　are　fond　of　walking。〃

〃I　suppose；〃　said　I；　〃you　wish　to　have　my　company　for　fear　of　
meeting　Gwyddelians　on　the　hill。〃

John　smiled。

〃Well；　sir；〃　said　he；　〃if　I　do　meet　them　I　would　sooner　be　with　
company　than　without。　　But　I　dare　venture　by　myself；　trusting　in　
the　Man　on　High；　and　perhaps　I　do　wrong　to　ask　you　to　go；　as　you　
must　be　tired　with　your　walk　of　yesterday。〃

〃Hardly　more　than　yourself；〃　said　I。　　〃Come；　I　shall　be　glad　to　go。　　
What　I　said　about　the　Gwyddelians　was　only　in　jest。〃

As　we　were　about　to　depart　John　said：

〃It　does　not　rain　at　present；　sir；　but　I　think　it　will。　　You　had　
better　take　an　umbrella。〃

I　did　so；　and　away　we　went。　　We　passed　over　the　bridge；　and　turning　
to　the　right　went　by　the　back　of　the　town　through　a　field。　　As　we　
passed　by　the　Plas　Newydd　John　Jones　said：

〃No　one　lives　there　now；　sir；　all　dark　and　dreary；　very　different　
from　the　state　of　things　when　the　ladies　lived　there　…　all　gay　then　
and　cheerful。　　I　remember　the　ladies；　sir；　particularly　the　last；　
who　lived　by　herself　after　her　companion　died。　　She　was　a　good　
lady；　and　very　kind　to　the　poor；　when　they　came　to　her　gate　they　
were　never　sent　away　without　something　to　cheer　them。　　She　was　a　
grand　lady　too　…　kept　grand　company；　and　used　to　be　drawn　about　in　
a　coach　by　four　horses。　　But　she　too　is　gone；　and　the　house　is　cold　
and　empty；　no　fire　in　it；　sir；　no　furniture。　　There　was　an　auction　
after　her　death；　and　a　grand　auction　it　was　and　lasted　four　days。　　
Oh；　what　a　throng　of　people　there　was；　some　of　whom　came　from　a　
great　distance　to　buy　the　curious　things；　of　which　there　were　
plenty。〃

We　passed　over　a　bridge；　which　crosses　a　torrent；　which　descends　
from　the　mountain　on　the　south　side　of　Llangollen；　which　bridge　
John　Jones　told　me　was　called　the　bridge　of　the　Melin　Bac；　or　mill　
of　the　nook；　from　a　mill　of　that　name　close　by。　　Continuing　our　way　
we　came　to　a　glen；　down　which　the　torrent　comes　which　passes　under　
the　bridge。　　There　was　little　water　in　the　bed　of　the　torrent；　and　
we　crossed　easily　enough　by　stepping…stones。　　I　looked　up　the　glen；　
a　wild　place　enough；　its　sides　overgrown　with　trees。　　Dreary　and　
dismal　it　looked　in　the　gloom　of　the　closing　evening。　　John　Jones　
said　that　there　was　no　regular　path　up　it；　an