wild wales-第17章

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dismal　it　looked　in　the　gloom　of　the　closing　evening。　　John　Jones　
said　that　there　was　no　regular　path　up　it；　and　that　one　could　only　
get　along　by　jumping　from　stone　to　stone；　at　the　hazard　of　breaking　
one's　legs。　　Having　passed　over　the　bed　of　the　torrent；　we　came　to　
a　path；　which　led　up　the　mountain。　　The　path　was　very　steep　and　
stony；　the　glen　with　its　trees　and　darkness　on　our　right。　　We　
proceeded　some　way。　　At　length　John　Jones　pointed　to　a　hollow　lane　
on　our　right；　seemingly　leading　into　the　glen。

〃That　place；　sir；〃　said　he；　〃is　called　Pant　y　Gwyddel　…　the　
Irishman's　dingle；　and　sometimes　Pant　Paddy；　from　the　Irish　being　
fond　of　taking　up　their　quarters　there。　　It　was　just　here；　at　the　
entrance　of　the　pant；　that　the　tribe　were　encamped；　when　I　passed　
two　months　ago　at　night；　in　returning　from　the　other　side　of　the　
hill　with　ten　shillings　in　my　pocket；　which　I　had　been　paid　for　a　
piece　of　my　work；　which　I　had　carried　over　the　mountain　to　the　very　
place　where　I　am　now　carrying　this。　　I　shall　never　forget　the　
fright　I　was　in；　both　on　account　of　my　life；　and　my　ten　shillings。　　
I　ran　down　what　remained　of　the　hill　as　fast　as　I　could；　not　
minding　the　stones。　　Should　I　meet　a　tribe　now　on　my　return　I　shall　
not　run；　you　will　be　with　me；　and　I　shall　not　fear　for　my　life　nor　
for　my　money；　which　will　be　now　more　than　ten　shillings；　provided　
the　man　over　the　hills　pays　me；　as　I　have　no　doubt　he　will。〃

As　we　ascended　higher　we　gradually　diverged　from　the　glen；　though　
we　did　not　lose　sight　of　it　till　we　reached　the　top　of　the　
mountain。　　The　top　was　nearly　level。　　On　our　right　were　a　few　
fields　enclosed　with　stone　walls。　　On　our　left　was　an　open　space　
where　whin；　furze　and　heath　were　growing。　　We　passed　over　the　
summit；　and　began　to　descend　by　a　tolerably　good；　though　steep　
road。　　But　for　the　darkness　of　evening　and　a　drizzling　mist；　which；　
for　some　time　past；　had　been　coming　on；　we　should　have　enjoyed　a　
glorious　prospect　down　into　the　valley；　or　perhaps　I　should　say　
that　I　should　have　enjoyed　a　glorious　prospect；　for　John　Jones；　
like　a　true　mountaineer；　cared　not　a　brass　farthing　for　prospects。　　
Even　as　it　was；　noble　glimpses　of　wood　and　rock　were　occasionally　
to　be　obtained。　　The　mist　soon　wetted　us　to　the　skin　
notwithstanding　that　we　put　up　our　umbrellas。　　It　was　a　regular　
Welsh　mist；　a　niwl；　like　that　in　which　the　great　poet　Ab　Gwilym　
lost　his　way；　whilst　trying　to　keep　an　assignation　with　his　beloved　
Morfydd；　and　which　he　abuses　in　the　following　manner：…


〃O　ho！　thou　villain　mist；　O　ho！
What　plea　hast　thou　to　plague　me　so？
I　scarcely　know　a　scurril　name；
But　dearly　thou　deserv'st　the　same；
Thou　exhalation　from　the　deep
Unknown；　where　ugly　spirits　keep！
Thou　smoke　from　hellish　stews　uphurl'd
To　mock　and　mortify　the　world！
Thou　spider…web　of　giant　race；
Spun　out　and　spread　through　airy　space！
Avaunt；　thou　filthy；　clammy　thing；
Of　sorry　rain　the　source　and　spring！
Moist　blanket　dripping　misery　down；
Loathed　alike　by　land　and　town！
Thou　watery　monster；　wan　to　see；
Intruding　'twixt　the　sun　and　me；
To　rob　me　of　my　blessed　right；
To　turn　my　day　to　dismal　night。
Parent　of　thieves　and　patron　best；
They　brave　pursuit　within　thy　breast！
Mostly　from　thee　its　merciless　snow
Grim　January　doth　glean；　I　trow。
Pass　off　with　speed；　thou　prowler　pale；
Holding　along　o'er　hill　and　dale；
Spilling　a　noxious　spittle　round；
Spoiling　the　fairies'　sporting　ground！
Move　off　to　hell；　mysterious　haze；
Wherein　deceitful　meteors　blaze；
Thou　wild　of　vapour；　vast；　o'ergrown；
Huge　as　the　ocean　of　unknown。〃


As　we　descended；　the　path　became　more　steep；　it　was　particularly　so　
at　a　part　where　it　was　overshadowed　with　trees　on　both　sides。　　
Here；　finding　walking　very　uncomfortable；　my　knees　suffering　much；　
I　determined　to　run。　　So　shouting　to　John　Jones；　〃Nis　gallav　
gerdded　rhaid　rhedeg；〃　I　set　off　running　down　the　pass。　　My　
companion　followed　close　behind；　and　luckily　meeting　no　mischance；　
we　presently　found　ourselves　on　level　ground；　amongst　a　collection　
of　small　houses。　　On　our　turning　a　corner　a　church　appeared　on　our　
left　hand　on　the　slope　of　the　hill。　　In　the　churchyard；　and　close　
to　the　road；　grew　a　large　yew…tree　which　flung　its　boughs　far　on　
every　side。　　John　Jones　stopping　by　the　tree　said；　that　if　I　looked　
over　the　wall　of　the　yard　I　should　see　the　tomb　of　a　Lord　
Dungannon；　who　had　been　a　great　benefactor　to　the　village。　　I　
looked；　and　through　the　lower　branches　of　the　yew；　which　hung　over　
part　of　the　churchyard；　I　saw　what　appeared　to　be　a　mausoleum。　　
Jones　told　me　that　in　the　church　also　there　was　the　tomb　of　a　great　
person　of　the　name　of　Tyrwhitt。

We　passed　on　by　various　houses　till　we　came　nearly　to　the　bottom　of　
the　valley。　　Jones　then　pointing　to　a　large　house；　at　a　little　
distance　on　the　right；　told　me　that　it　was　a　good　gwesty；　and　
advised　me　to　go　and　refresh　myself　in　it；　whilst　he　went　and　
carried　home　his　work　to　the　man　who　employed　him；　who　he　said　
lived　in　a　farm…house　a　few　hundred　yards　off。　　I　asked　him　where　
we　were。

〃At　Llyn　Ceiriog；〃　he　replied。

I　then　asked　if　we　were　near　Pont　Fadog；　and　received　for　answer　
that　Pont　Fadog　was　a　good　way　down　the　valley；　to　the　north…east；　
and　that　we　could　not　see　it　owing　to　a　hill　which　intervened。

Jones　went　his　way　and　I　proceeded　to　the　gwestfa；　the　door　of　
which　stood　invitingly　open。　　I　entered　a　large　kitchen；　at　one　end　
of　which　a　good　fire　was　burning　in　a　grate；　in　front　of　which　was　
a　long　table；　and　a　high　settle　on　either　side。　　Everything　looked　
very　comfortable。　　There　was　nobody　in　the　kitchen：　　on　my　calling；　
however；　a　girl　came；　whom　I　bade　in　Welsh　to　bring　me　a　pint　of　
the　best　ale。　　The　girl　stared；　but　went　away　apparently　to　fetch　
it　…　presently　came　the　landlady；　a　good…looking　middle…aged　woman。　　
I　saluted　her　in　Welsh　and　then　asked　her　if　she　could　speak　
English。　　She　replied　〃Tipyn　bach；〃　which　interpreted；　is；　a　little　
bit。　　I　soon；　however；　found　that　she　could　speak　it　very　passably；　
for　two　men　coming　in　from　the　rear　of　the　house　she　conversed　with　
them　in　English。　　These　two　individuals　seated　themselves　on　chairs　
near　the　door；　and　called　for　beer。　　The　girl　brought　in　the　ale；　
and　I　sat　down　by　the　fire；　poured　myself　out　a　glass；　and　made　
myself　comfortable。　　Presently　a　gig　drove　up　to　the　door；　and　in　
came　a　couple　of　dogs；　one　a　tall　black　grey…hound；　the　other　a　
large　female　setter；　the　coat　of　the　latter　dripping　with　rain；　and　
shortly　after　two　men　from　the　gig　entered；　one　who　appeared　to　be　
the　principal　was　a　stout　bluff…looking　person　between　fifty　and　
sixty；　dressed　in　a　grey　stuff　coat　and　with　a　slouched　hat　on　his　
head。　　This　man　bustled　much　about；　and　in　a　broad　Yorkshire　
dialect　ordered　a　fire　to　be　lighted　in　another　room；　and　a　chamber　
to　be　prepared　for　him　and　his　companion；　the　landlady；　who　
appeared　to　know　him；　and　to　treat　him　with　a　kind　of　deference；　
asked　if　she　should　prepare　two　beds；　whereupon　he　answered　〃No！　　
As　we　came　together　and　shall　start　together；　so　shall　we　sleep　
together；　it　will　not　be　for　the　first　time。〃

His　companion　was　a　small　mean…looking　man；　dressed　in　a　black　
coat；　and　behaved　to　him　with　no　little　respect。　　Not　only　the　
landlady；　but　the　two　men；　of　whom　I　have　previously　spoken；　
appeared　to　know　him　and　to　treat　him　with　deference。　　He　and　his　
companion　presently　went　out　to　see　after　the　horse。　　After　a　
little　time　they　returned；　and　the　stout　man　called　lustily　for　two　
fourpennyworths　of　brandy　and　water　…　〃Take　it　into　the　other　
room！〃　said　he；　and　went　into　a　side　room　with　his　companion；　but　
almost　immediately　came　out　saying　that　the　room　smoked　and　was　
cold；　and　that　he　preferred　sitting　in　the　kitchen。　　He　then　took　
his　seat　near　me；　and　when　the　brandy　was　brought　drank　to　my　
health。　　I　said　thank　you；　but　nothing　farther。　　He　then　began　
talking　to　the　men　and　his　companion　upon　indifferent　subjects。　　
After　a　little　time　John　Jones　came　in；　called　for　a　glass　of　ale；　
and　at　my　invitation　seated　himself　between　me　and　the　stout　
personage。　　The　latter　addressed　him　roughly　in　English；　but　
receiving　no　answer　said；　〃Ah；　you　no　understand。　　You　have　no　
English　and　I　no　Welsh。〃

〃You　have　not　mastered　Welsh　yet　Mr　…　〃　said　one　of　the　men　to　him。

〃No！〃　said　he：　　〃I　have　been　doing　business　with　the　Welsh　forty　
years；　but　can't　speak　a　word　of　their　language。　　I　sometimes　guess　
at　a　word；　spoken　in　the　course　of　business；　but　am　never　sure。〃

Presently　John　Jones　began　talking　to　me；　saying　that　he　had　been　
to　the　river；　that　the　water　was　very　low；　and　that　there　was　
little　but　stones　in　the　bed　of　the　stream。

I　told　him　if　its　name　was　Ceiriog　no　wonder　there　were　plenty　of　
stones　in　it；　Ceiriog　being　derived　from　Cerrig；　a　rock。　　The　men　
stared　to　hear　me　speak　Welsh。

〃Is　the　gentleman　a　Welshman？〃　said　one　of　the　men；　near　the　door；　
to　his　companion；　〃he　seems　to　speak　Welsh　very　well。〃

〃How　should　I　know？〃　said　the　other；　who　appeared　to　be　a　low　
working　man。

〃Who　are　those　people？〃　said　I　to　John　Jones。

〃The　smaller　man　is　a　workman　at　a　flannel　manufactory；〃　said　
Jones。　　〃The　other　I　do　not　exactly　know。〃

〃And　who　is　the　man　on　the　other　side　of　you？〃　said　I。

〃I　believe　he　is　an　English　dealer　in　gigs　and　horses；〃　replied　
Jones；　〃and　that　he　is　come　here　either　to　buy　or　sell。〃

The　man；　however；　soon　put　me　out　of　all　doubt　with　respect　to　his　
profession。

〃I　was　at　Chirk；〃　said　he；　〃and　Mr　So…and…so　asked　me　to　have　a　
look　at　his　new　gig　and　horse；　and　have　a　ride。　　I　consented。　　They　
were　both　brought　out　…　everything　new；　gig　new；　harness　new；　and　
horse　new。　　Mr　So…and…so　asked　me　what　I　thought　of　his　turn…out。　　
I　gave　a　look　and　said；　'I　like　the　car　very　well；　harness　very　
well；　but　I　don't　like　the　horse　at　all；　a　regular　bolter；　rearer　
and　kicker；　or　I'm　no　judge；　moreover；　he's　pigeon…toed。'　　However；　
we　all　got　on　the　car　…　four　of　us；　and　I　was　of　course　
complimented　with　the　ribbons。　　Well；　we　hadn't　gone　fifty　yards　
before　the　horse；　to　make　my　words　partly　good；　began　to　kick　like　
a　new　'un。　　However；　I　managed　him；　and　he　went　on　for　a　couple　of　
miles　till　we　got　to　the　top　of　the　hill；　just　above　the　descent　
with　the　precipice　on　the　right　hand。　　Here　he　began　to　rear　like　a　
very　devil。

〃'Oh　dear　me！'　says　Mr　So…and…so；　'let　me　get　out！'

〃'Keep　where　you　are；'　says　I；　'I　can　manage　him。'

〃However；　Mr　So…and…so　would　not　be　ruled；　and　got　out；　coming　
down；　not　on　his　legs；　but　his　hands　and　knees。　　And　then　the　two　
others　said　…

〃'Let　us　get　out！'

〃'Keep　where　you　are；'　said　I；　'I　can　manage　him。'

〃But　they　must　needs　get　out；　or　rather　tumble　out；　for　they　both　
came　down　on　the　road；　hard　on　their　backs。

〃'Get　out　yourself；'　said　they　all；　'and　let　the　devil　go；　or　you　
are　a　done　man。'

〃'Getting　out　may　do　for　you　young　hands；'　says　I；　'but　it　won't　do　
for　I；　neither　my　back　nor　bones　will　stand　the　hard　road。'

〃Mr　So…and…so　ran　to　the　horse's　head。

〃'Are　you　mad？'　says　I；　'if　you　try　to　hold　him　he'll　be　over　the　
pree…si…pi