wild wales-第24章

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understand；　his　utterance　being　very　indistinct　and　broken；　it　was；　
however；　made　with　some　degree　of　violence；　with　two　or　three　Myn　
Diawls；　and　a　blow　on　the　table　with　his　clenched　fist。　　He　then　
asked　me　whether　I　thought　the　militia　would　be　again　called　out。　　
〃Nothing　more　probable；〃　said　I。

〃And　where　would　they　be　sent　to？〃

〃Perhaps　to　Ireland；〃　was　my　answer；　whereupon　he　started　up　with　
another　Myn　Diawl；　expressing　the　greatest　dread　of　being　sent　to　
Iwerddon。

〃You　ought　to　rejoice　in　your　chance　of　going　there；〃　said　I；　
〃Iwerddon　is　a　beautiful　country；　and　abounds　with　whisky。〃

〃And　the　Irish？〃　said　he。

〃Hearty；　jolly　fellows；〃　said　I；　〃if　you　know　how　to　manage　them；　
and　all　gentlemen。〃

Here　he　became　very　violent；　saying　that　I　did　not　speak　truth；　for　
that　he　had　seen　plenty　of　Irish　camping　amidst　the　hills；　that　the　
men　were　half　naked　and　the　women　were　three　parts　so；　and　that　
they　carried　their　children　on　their　backs。　　He　then　said　that　he　
hoped　somebody　would　speedily　kill　Nicholas；　in　order　that　the　war　
might　be　at　an　end　and　himself　not　sent　to　Iwerddon。　　He　then　asked　
if　I　thought　Cronstadt　could　be　taken。　　I　said　I　believed　it　could；　
provided　the　hearts　of　those　who　were　sent　to　take　it　were　in　the　
right　place。

〃Where　do　you　think　the　hearts　of　those　are　who　are　gone　against　
it？〃　said　he　…　speaking　with　great　vehemence。

I　made　no　other　answer　than　by　taking　my　glass　and　drinking。

His　companion　now　looking　at　our　habiliments　which　were　in　rather　a　
dripping　condition　asked　John　Jones　if　we　had　come　from　far。

〃We　have　been　to　Pont　y　Meibion；〃　said　Jones；　〃to　see　the　chair　of　
Huw　Morris；〃　adding　that　the　Gwr　Boneddig　was　a　great　admirer　of　
the　songs　of　the　Eos　Ceiriog。

He　had　no　sooner　said　these　words　than　the　intoxicated　militiaman　
started　up；　and　striking　the　table　with　his　fist　said：　　〃I　am　a　
poor　stone…cutter　…　this　is　a　rainy　day　and　I　have　come　here　to　
pass　it　in　the　best　way　I　can。　　I　am　somewhat　drunk；　but　though　I　
am　a　poor　stone…mason；　a　private　in　the　militia；　and　not　so　sober　
as　I　should　be；　I　can　repeat　more　of　the　songs　of　the　Eos　than　any　
man　alive；　however　great　a　gentleman；　however　sober　…　more　than　Sir　
Watkin；　more　than　Colonel　Biddulph　himself。〃

He　then　began　to　repeat　what　appeared　to　be　poetry；　for　I　could　
distinguish　the　rhymes　occasionally；　though　owing　to　his　broken　
utterance　it　was　impossible　for　me　to　make　out　the　sense　of　the　
words。　　Feeling　a　great　desire　to　know　what　verses　of　Huw　Morris　
the　intoxicated　youth　would　repeat；　I　took　out　my　pocket…book　and　
requested　Jones；　who　was　much　better　acquainted　with　Welsh　
pronunciation；　under　any　circumstances；　than　myself；　to　endeavour　
to　write　down　from　the　mouth　of　the　young　fellow　any　verses　
uppermost　in　his　mind。　　Jones　took　the　pocket…book　and　pencil　and　
went　to　the　window；　followed　by　the　young　man　scarcely　able　to　
support　himself。　　Here　a　curious　scene　took　place；　the　drinker　
hiccuping　up　verses；　and　Jones　dotting　them　down；　in　the　best　
manner　he　could；　though　he　had　evidently　great　difficulty　to　
distinguish　what　was　said　to　him。　　At　last；　methought；　the　young　
man　said　…　〃There　they　are；　the　verses　of　the　Nightingale；　on　his　
death…bed。〃

I　took　the　book　and　read　aloud　the　following　lines　beautifully　
descriptive　of　the　eagerness　of　a　Christian　soul　to　leave　its　
perishing　tabernacle；　and　get　to　Paradise　and　its　Creator：…


〃Myn'd　i'r　wyl　ar　redeg；
I'r　byd　a　beryi　chwaneg；
I　Beradwys；　y　ber　wiw　deg；
Yn　Enw　Duw　yn　union　deg。〃


〃Do　you　understand　those　verses？〃　said　the　man　on　the　settle；　a　
dark　swarthy　fellow　with　an　oblique　kind　of　vision；　and　dressed　in　
a　pepper…and…salt　coat。

〃I　will　translate　them；〃　said　I；　and　forthwith　put　them　into　
English　…　first　into　prose　and　then　into　rhyme；　the　rhymed　version　
running　thus：…


〃Now　to　my　rest　I　hurry　away；
To　the　world　which　lasts　for　ever　and　aye；
To　Paradise；　the　beautiful　place；
Trusting　alone　in　the　Lord　of　Grace〃　…


〃Well；〃　said　he　of　the　pepper…and…salt；　〃if　that　isn't　capital　I　
don't　know　what　is。〃

A　scene　in　a　public…house；　yes！　but　in　a　Welsh　public…house。　　Only　
think　of　a　Suffolk　toper　repeating　the　death…bed　verses　of　a　poet；　
surely　there　is　a　considerable　difference　between　the　Celt　and　the　
Saxon。



CHAPTER　XXII




Llangollen　Fair　…　Buyers　and　Sellers　…　The　Jockey　…　The　Greek　Cap。


ON　the　twenty…first　was　held　Llangollen　Fair。　　The　day　was　dull　
with　occasional　showers。　　I　went　to　see　the　fair　about　noon。　　It　
was　held　in　and　near　a　little　square　in　the　south…east　quarter　of　
the　town；　of　which　square　the　police…station　is　the　principal　
feature　on　the　side　of　the　west；　and　an　inn；　bearing　the　sign　of　
the　Grapes；　on　the　east。　　The　fair　was　a　little　bustling　fair；　
attended　by　plenty　of　people　from　the　country；　and　from　the　English　
border；　and　by　some　who　appeared　to　come　from　a　greater　distance　
than　the　border。　　A　dense　row　of　carts　extended　from　the　police…
station　half　across　the　space；　these　carts　were　filled　with　pigs；　
and　had　stout　cord…nettings　drawn　over　them；　to　prevent　the　animals　
escaping。　　By　the　sides　of　these　carts　the　principal　business　of　
the　fair　appeared　to　be　going　on　…　there　stood　the　owners　male　and　
female；　higgling　with　Llangollen　men　and　women；　who　came　to　buy。　　
The　pigs　were　all　small；　and　the　price　given　seemed　to　vary　from　
eighteen　to　twenty…five　shillings。　　Those　who　bought　pigs　generally　
carried　them　away　in　their　arms；　and　then　there　was　no　little　
diversion；　dire　was　the　screaming　of　the　porkers；　yet　the　purchaser　
invariably　appeared　to　know　how　to　manage　his　bargain；　keeping　the　
left　arm　round　the　body　of　the　swine　and　with　the　right　hand　fast　
gripping　the　ear　…　some　few　were　led　away　by　strings。　　There　were　
some　Welsh　cattle；　small　of　course；　and　the　purchasers　of　these　
seemed　to　be　Englishmen；　tall　burly　fellows　in　general；　far　
exceeding　the　Welsh　in　height　and　size。

Much　business　in　the　cattle…line　did　not　seem；　however；　to　be　going　
on。　　Now　and　then　a　big　fellow　made　an　offer；　and　held　out　his　hand　
for　a　little　Pictish　grazier　to　give　it　a　slap　…　a　cattle　bargain　
being　concluded　by　a　slap　of　the　hand　…　but　the　Welshman　generally　
turned　away；　with　a　half　resentful　exclamation。　　There　were　a　few　
horses　and　ponies　in　the　street　leading　into　the　fair　from　the　
south。

I　saw　none　sold；　however。　　A　tall　athletic　figure　was　striding　
amongst　them；　evidently　a　jockey　and　a　stranger；　looking　at　them　
and　occasionally　asking　a　slight　question　of　one　or　another　of　
their　proprietors；　but　he　did　not　buy。　　He　might　in　age　be　about　
eight…and…twenty；　and　about　six　feet　and　three…quarters　of　an　inch　
in　height；　in　build　he　was　perfection　itself；　a　better　built　man　I　
never　saw。　　He　wore　a　cap　and　a　brown　jockey　coat；　trowsers；　
leggings　and　high…lows；　and　sported　a　single　spur。　　He　had　whiskers　
…　all　jockeys　should　have　whiskers　…　but　he　had　what　I　did　not　
like；　and　what　no　genuine　jockey　should　have；　a　moustache；　which　
looks　coxcombical　and　Frenchified　…　but　most　things　have　terribly　
changed　since　I　was　young。　　Three　or　four　hardy…looking　fellows；　
policemen；　were　gliding　about　in　their　blue　coats　and　leather　hats；　
holding　their　thin　walking…sticks　behind　them；　conspicuous　amongst　
whom　was　the　leader；　a　tall　lathy　North　Briton　with　a　keen　eye　and　
hard　features。　　Now　if　I　add　there　was　much　gabbling　of　Welsh　round　
about；　and　here　and　there　some　slight　sawing　of　English　…　that　in　
the　street　leading　from　the　north　there　were　some　stalls　of　
gingerbread　and　a　table　at　which　a　queer…looking　being　with　a　red　
Greek…looking　cap　on　his　head；　sold　rhubarb；　herbs；　and　phials　
containing　the　Lord　knows　what；　and　who　spoke　a　low　vulgar　English　
dialect　…　I　repeat；　if　I　add　this；　I　think　I　have　said　all　that　is　
necessary　about　Llangollen　Fair。



CHAPTER　XXIII



An　Expedition　…　Pont　y　Pandy　…　The　Sabbath　…　Glendower's　Mount　…　
Burial　Place　of　Old　…　Corwen　…　The　Deep　Glen　…　The　Grandmother　…　
The　Roadside　Chapel。


I　WAS　now　about　to　leave　Llangollen；　for　a　short　time；　and　to　set　
out　on　an　expedition　to　Bangor；　Snowdon；　and　one　or　two　places　in　
Anglesea。　　I　had　determined　to　make　the　journey　on　foot；　in　order　
that　I　might　have　perfect　liberty　of　action；　and　enjoy　the　best　
opportunities　of　seeing　the　country。　　My　wife　and　daughter　were　to　
meet　me　at　Bangor；　to　which　place　they　would　repair　by　the　
railroad；　and　from　which；　after　seeing　some　of　the　mountain　
districts；　they　would　return　to　Llangollen　by　the　way　they　came；　
where　I　proposed　to　join　them；　returning；　however；　by　a　different　
way　from　the　one　I　went；　that　I　might　traverse　new　districts。　　
About　eleven　o'clock　of　a　brilliant　Sunday　morning　I　left　
Llangollen；　after　reading　the　morning…service　of　the　Church　to　my　
family。　　I　set　out　on　a　Sunday　because　I　was　anxious　to　observe　the　
general　demeanour　of　the　people；　in　the　interior　of　the　country；　on　
the　Sabbath。

I　directed　my　course　towards　the　west；　to　the　head　of　the　valley。　　
My　wife　and　daughter　after　walking　with　me　about　a　mile　bade　me　
farewell；　and　returned。　　Quickening　my　pace　I　soon　left　Llangollen　
valley　behind　me　and　entered　another　vale；　along　which　the　road　
which　I　was　following；　and　which　led　to　Corwen　and　other　places；　
might　be　seen　extending　for　miles。　　Lumpy　hills　were　close　upon　my　
left；　the　Dee　running　noisily　between　steep　banks；　fringed　with　
trees；　was　on　my　right；　beyond　it　rose　hills　which　form　part　of　the　
wall　of　the　Vale　of　Clwyd；　their　tops　bare；　but　their　sides　
pleasantly　coloured　with　yellow　corn…fields　and　woods　of　dark　
verdure。　　About　an　hour's　walking；　from　the　time　when　I　entered　the　
valley；　brought　me　to　a　bridge　over　a　gorge；　down　which　water　ran　
to　the　Dee。　　I　stopped　and　looked　over　the　side　of　the　bridge　
nearest　to　the　hill。　　A　huge　rock　about　forty　feet　long　by　twenty　
broad；　occupied　the　entire　bed　of　the　gorge；　just　above　the　bridge；　
with　the　exception　of　a　little　gullet　to　the　right；　down　which　
between　the　rock　and　a　high　bank；　on　which　stood　a　cottage；　a　run　
of　water　purled　and　brawled。　　The　rock　looked　exactly　like　a　huge　
whale　lying　on　its　side；　with　its　back　turned　towards　the　runnel。　　
Above　it　was　a　glen　of　trees。　　After　I　had　been　gazing　a　little　
time　a　man　making　his　appearance　at　the　door　of　the　cottage　just　
beyond　the　bridge　I　passed　on；　and　drawing　nigh　to　him；　after　a　
slight　salutation；　asked　him　in　English　the　name　of　the　bridge。

〃The　name　of　the　bridge；　sir；〃　said　the　man；　in　very　good　English；　
〃is　Pont　y　Pandy。〃

〃Does　not　that　mean　the　bridge　of　the　fulling　mill？〃

〃I　believe　it　does；　sir；〃　said　the　man。

〃Is　there　a　fulling　mill　near？〃

〃No；　sir；　there　was　one　some　time　ago；　but　it　is　now　a　sawing　
mill。〃

Here　a　woman；　coming　out；　looked　at　me　steadfastly。

〃Is　that　gentlewoman　your　wife？〃

〃She　is　no　gentlewoman；　sir；　but　she　is　my　wife。〃

〃Of　what　religion　are　you？〃

〃We　are　Calvinistic…Methodists；　sir。〃

〃Have　you　been　to　chapel？〃

〃We　are　just　returned；　sir。〃

Here　the　woman　said　something　to　her　husband；　which　I　did　not　hear；　
but　the　purport　of　wh