wild wales-第26章

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bare…headed。　　A　rather　singular　scene　presented　itself。　　Within　a　
large　dimly…lighted　room；　a　number　of　people　were　assembled；　partly　
seated　in　rude　pews；　and　partly　on　benches。　　Beneath　a　kind　of　
altar；　a　few　yards　from　the　door；　stood　three　men　…　the　middlemost　
was　praying　in　Welsh　in　a　singular　kind　of　chant；　with　his　arms　
stretched　out。　　I　could　distinguish　the　words；　〃Jesus　descend　among　
us！　sweet　Jesus　descend　among　us　…　quickly。〃　　He　spoke　very　slowly；　
and　towards　the　end　of　every　sentence　dropped　his　voice；　so　that　
what　he　said　was　anything　but　distinct。　　As　I　stood　within　the　
door；　a　man　dressed　in　coarse　garments　came　up　to　me　from　the　
interior　of　the　building；　and　courteously；　and　in　excellent　Welsh；　
asked　me　to　come　with　him　and　take　a　seat。　　With　equal　courtesy；　
but　far　inferior　Welsh；　I　assured　him　that　I　meant　no　harm；　but　
wished　to　be　permitted　to　remain　near　the　door；　whereupon　with　a　
low　bow　he　left　me。　　When　the　man　had　concluded　his　prayer；　the　
whole　of　the　congregation　began　singing　a　hymn；　many　of　the　voices　
were　gruff　and　discordant；　two　or　three；　however；　were　of　great　
power；　and　some　of　the　female　ones　of　surprising　sweetness。　　At　the　
conclusion　of　the　hymn；　another　of　the　three　men　by　the　altar　began　
to　pray；　just　in　the　same　manner　as　his　comrade　had　done；　and　
seemingly　using　much　the　same　words。　　When　he　had　done；　there　was　
another　hymn；　after　which；　seeing　that　the　congregation　was　about　
to　break　up；　I　bowed　my　head　towards　the　interior　of　the　building；　
and　departed。

Emerging　from　the　hollow　way；　I　found　myself　on　a　moor；　over　which　
the　road　lay　in　the　direction　of　the　north。　　Towards　the　west；　at　
an　immense　distance；　rose　a　range　of　stupendous　hills；　which　I　
subsequently　learned　were　those　of　Snowdon　…　about　ten　minutes'　
walking　brought　me　to　Cerrig　y　Drudion；　a　small　village　near　a　
rocky　elevation；　from　which；　no　doubt；　the　place　takes　its　name；　
which　interpreted；　is　the　Rock　of　Heroes。



CHAPTER　XXIV



Cerrig　y　Drudion　…　The　Landlady　…　Doctor　Jones　…　Coll　Gwynfa　…　The　
Italian　…　Men　of　Como　…　Disappointment　…　Weather　…　Glasses　…　
Southey。


THE　inn　at　Cerrig　y　Drudion　was　called　the　Lion　…　whether　the　
white；　black；　red　or　green　Lion；　I　do　not　know；　though　I　am　certain　
that　it　was　a　lion　of　some　colour　or　other。　　It　seemed　as　decent　
and　respectable　a　hostelry　as　any　traveller　could　wish；　to　refresh　
and　repose　himself　in；　after　a　walk　of　twenty　miles。　　I　entered　a　
well…lighted　passage；　and　from　thence　a　well…lighted　bar　room；　on　
the　right　hand；　in　which　sat　a　stout；　comely；　elderly　lady；　dressed　
in　silks　and　satins；　with　a　cambric　coif　on　her　head；　in　company　
with　a　thin；　elderly　man　with　a　hat　on　his　head；　dressed　in　a　
rather　prim　and　precise　manner。　　〃Madam！〃　said　I；　bowing　to　the　
lady；　〃as　I　suppose　you　are　the　mistress　of　this　establishment；　I　
beg　leave　to　inform　you　that　I　am　an　Englishman；　walking　through　
these　regions；　in　order　fully　to　enjoy　their　beauties　and　wonders。　　
I　have　this　day　come　from　Llangollen；　and　being　somewhat　hungry　and　
fatigued；　hope　I　can　be　accommodated　here　with　a　dinner　and　a　bed。〃

〃Sir！〃　said　the　lady；　getting　up　and　making　me　a　profound　curtsey；　
〃I　am；　as　you　suppose；　the　mistress　of　this　establishment；　and　am　
happy　to　say　that　I　shall　be　able　to　accommodate　you　…　pray　sit　
down；　sir；〃　she　continued；　handing　me　a　chair；　〃you　must　indeed　be　
tired；　for　Llangollen　is　a　great　way　from　here。〃

I　took　the　seat　with　thanks；　and　she　resumed　her　own。

〃Rather　hot　weather　for　walking；　sir！〃　said　the　precise…looking　
gentleman。

〃It　is；〃　said　I；　〃but　as　I　can't　observe　the　country　well　without　
walking　through　it；　I　put　up　with　the　heat。〃

〃You　exhibit　a　philosophic　mind；　sir；〃　said　the　precise…looking　
gentleman　…　〃and　a　philosophic　mind　I　hold　in　reverence。〃

〃Pray；　sir；〃　said　I；　〃have　I　the　honour　of　addressing　a　member　of　
the　medical　profession？〃

〃Sir；〃　said　the　precise…looking　gentleman；　getting　up　and　making　me　
a　bow；　〃your　question　does　honour　to　your　powers　of　discrimination　
…　a　member　of　the　medical　profession　I　am；　though　an　unworthy　one。〃

〃Nay；　nay；　doctor；〃　said　the　landlady　briskly；　〃say　not　so　…　every　
one　knows　that　you　are　a　credit　to　your　profession　…　well　would　it　
be　if　there　were　many　in　it　like　you　…　unworthy？　marry　come　up！　　I　
won't　hear　such　an　expression。〃

〃I　see；〃　said　I；　〃that　I　have　not　only　the　honour　of　addressing　a　
medical　gentleman；　but　a　doctor　of　medicine　…　however；　I　might　have　
known　as　much　by　your　language　and　deportment。〃

With　a　yet　lower　bow　than　before　he　replied　with　something　of　a　
sigh；　〃No；　sir；　no；　our　kind　landlady　and　the　neighbourhood　are　in　
the　habit　of　placing　doctor　before　my　name；　but　I　have　no　title　to　
it　…　I　am　not　Doctor　Jones；　sir；　but　plain　Geffery　Jones　at　your　
service；〃　and　thereupon　with　another　bow　he　sat　down。

〃Do　you　reside　here？〃　said　I。

〃Yes；　sir；　I　reside　here　in　the　place　of　my　birth　…　I　have　not　
always　resided　here　…　and　I　did　not　always　expect　to　spend　my　
latter　days　in　a　place　of　such　obscurity；　but；　sir；　misfortunes　…　
misfortunes　。　。　。〃

〃Ah；〃　said　I；　〃misfortunes！　they　pursue　every　one；　more　especially　
those　whose　virtues　should　exempt　them　from　them。　　Well；　sir；　the　
consciousness　of　not　having　deserved　them　should　be　your　
consolation。〃

〃Sir；〃　said　the　doctor；　taking　off　his　hat；　〃you　are　infinitely　
kind。〃

〃You　call　this　an　obscure　place；〃　said　I　…　〃can　that　be　an　obscure　
place　which　has　produced　a　poet？　　I　have　long　had　a　respect　for　
Cerrig　y　Drudion　because　it　gave　birth　to；　and　was　the　residence　of　
a　poet　of　considerable　merit。〃

〃I　was　not　aware　of　that　fact；〃　said　the　doctor；　〃pray　what　was　his　
name？〃

〃Peter　Lewis；〃　said　I；　〃he　was　a　clergyman　of　Cerrig　y　Drudion　
about　the　middle　of　the　last　century；　and　amongst　other　things　
wrote　a　beautiful　song　called　Cathl　y　Gair　Mwys；　or　the　melody　of　
the　ambiguous　word。〃

〃Surely　you　do　not　understand　Welsh？〃　said　the　doctor。

〃I　understand　a　little　of　it；〃　I　replied。

〃Will　you　allow　me　to　speak　to　you　in　Welsh？〃　said　the　doctor。

〃Certainly；〃　said　I。

He　spoke　to　me　in　Welsh；　and　I　replied。

〃Ha；　ha；〃　said　the　landlady　in　English；　〃only　think；　doctor；　of　the　
gentleman　understanding　Welsh　…　we　must　mind　what　we　say　before　
him。〃

〃And　are　you　an　Englishman？〃　said　the　doctor。

〃I　am；〃　I　replied。

〃And　how　came　you　to　learn　it？〃

〃I　am　fond　of　languages；〃　said　I；　〃and　studied　Welsh　at　an　early　
period。〃

〃And　you　read　Welsh　poetry？〃

〃Oh　yes。〃

〃How　were　you　enabled　to　master　its　difficulties？〃

〃Chiefly　by　going　through　Owen　Pugh's　version　of　'Paradise　Lost'　
twice；　with　the　original　by　my　side。　　He　has　introduced　into　that　
translation　so　many　of　the　poetic　terms　of　the　old　bards；　that　
after　twice　going　through　it；　there　was　little　in　Welsh　poetry　that　
I　could　not　make　out　with　a　little　pondering。〃

〃You　pursued　a　very　excellent　plan；　sir；〃　said　the　doctor；　〃a　very　
excellent　plan　indeed。　　Owen　Pugh！〃

〃Owen　Pugh！　　The　last　of　your　very　great　men；〃　said　I。

〃You　say　right；　sir；〃　said　the　doctor。　　〃He　was　indeed　our　last　
great　man　…　Ultimus　Romanorum。　　I　have　myself　read　his　work；　which　
he　called　Coll　Gwynfa；　the　Loss　of　the　place　of　Bliss　…　an　
admirable　translation；　sir；　highly　poetical；　and　at　the　same　time　
correct。〃

〃Did　you　know　him？〃　said　I。

〃I　had　not　the　honour　of　his　acquaintance；〃　said　the　doctor　…　〃but；　
sir；　I　am　happy　to　say　that　I　have　made　yours。〃

The　landlady　now　began　to　talk　to　me　about　dinner；　and　presently　
went　out　to　make　preparations　for　that　very　important　meal。　　I　had　
a　great　deal　of　conversation　with　the　doctor；　whom　I　found　a　person　
of　great　and　varied　information；　and　one　who　had　seen　a　vast　deal　
of　the　world。　　He　was　giving　me　an　account　of　an　island　in　the　West　
Indies；　which　he　had　visited；　when　a　boy　coming　in；　whispered　into　
his　ear；　whereupon；　getting　up　he　said：　　〃Sir；　I　am　called　away。　　I　
am　a　country　surgeon；　and　of　course　an　accoucheur。　　There　is　a　lady　
who　lives　at　some　distance　requiring　my　assistance。　　It　is　with　
grief　I　leave　you　so　abruptly；　but　I　hope　that　some　time　or　other　
we　shall　meet　again。〃　　Then　making　me　an　exceedingly　profound　bow；　
he　left　the　room；　followed　by　the　boy。

I　dined　upstairs　in　a　very　handsome　drawing…room；　communicating　
with　a　sleeping　apartment。　　During　dinner　I　was　waited　upon　by　the　
daughter　of　the　landlady；　a　good…looking　merry　girl　of　twenty。　　
After　dinner　I　sat　for　some　time　thinking　over　the　adventures　of　
the　day；　then　feeling　rather　lonely　and　not　inclined　to　retire　to　
rest；　I　went　down　to　the　bar；　where　I　found　the　landlady　seated　
with　her　daughter。　　I　sat　down　with　them　and　we　were　soon　in　
conversation。　　We　spoke　of　Doctor　Jones　…　the　landlady　said　that　he　
had　his　little　eccentricities；　but　was　an　excellent　and　learned　
man。　　Speaking　of　herself　she　said　that　she　had　three　daughters；　
that　the　youngest　was　with　her　and　that　the　two　eldest　kept　the　
principal　inn　at　Ruthyn。　　We　occasionally　spoke　a　little　Welsh。　　At　
length　the　landlady　said；　〃There　is　an　Italian　in　the　kitchen　who　
can　speak　Welsh　too。　　It's　odd　the　only　two　people　not　Welshmen　I　
have　ever　known　who　could　speak　Welsh；　for　such　you　and　he　are；　
should　be　in　my　house　at　the　same　time。〃

〃Dear　me；〃　said　I；　〃I　should　like　to　see　him。〃

〃That　you　can　easily　do；〃　said　the　girl；　〃I　daresay　he　will　be　glad　
enough　to　come　in　if　you　invite　him。〃

〃Pray　take　my　compliments　to　him；〃　said　I；　〃and　tell　him　that　I　
shall　be　glad　of　his　company。〃

The　girl　went　out　and　presently　returned　with　the　Italian。　　He　was　
a　short；　thick；　strongly…built　fellow　of　about　thirty…seven；　with　a　
swarthy　face；　raven…black　hair；　high　forehead；　and　dark　deep　eyes；　
full　of　intelligence　and　great　determination。　　He　was　dressed　in　a　
velveteen　coat；　with　broad　lappets；　red　waistcoat；　velveteen　
breeches；　buttoning　a　little　way　below　the　knee；　white　stockings　
apparently　of　lamb's…wool　and　high…lows。

〃Buona　sera？〃　said　I。

〃Buona　sera；　signore！〃　said　the　Italian。

〃Will　you　have　a　glass　of　brandy　and　water？〃　said　I　in　English。

〃I　never　refuse　a　good　offer；〃　said　the　Italian。

He　sat　down；　and　I　ordered　a　glass　of　brandy　and　water　for　him　and　
another　for　myself。

〃Pray　speak　a　little　Italian　to　him；〃　said　the　good　landlady　to　me。　　
〃I　have　heard　a　great　deal　about　the　beauty　of　that　language；　and　
should　like　to　hear　it　spoken。〃

〃From　the　Lago　di　Como？〃　said　I；　trying　to　speak　Italian。

〃Si；　signore！　but　how　came　you　to　think　that　I　was　from　the　Lake　of　
Como？〃

〃Because；〃　said　I；　〃when　I　was　a　ragazzo　I　knew　many　from　the　Lake　
of　Como；　who　dressed　much　like　yourself。　　They　wandered　about　the　
country　with　boxes　on　their　backs　and　weather…glasses　in　their　
hands；　but　had　their　head…quarters　at　N。　where　I　lived。〃

〃Do　you　remember　any　of　their　names？〃　said　the　Italian。

〃Giovanni　Gestra　and　Luigi　Pozzi；〃　I　replied。

〃I　have　seen　Giovanni　Gestra　myself；〃　said　the　Italian；　〃and　I　have　
heard　of　Luigi　Pozzi。　　Giovanni　Gestra　returned　to　the　Lago　…　but　
no　one　knows　what　is　become　of　Luigi　Pozzi。〃

〃The　last　time　I　s