wild wales-第31章

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After　breakfast　on　the　morning　subsequent　to　my　arrival；　Henrietta　
and　I　roamed　about　the　town；　and　then　proceeded　to　view　the　bridges　
which　lead　over　the　strait　to　Anglesey。　　One；　for　common　traffic；　
is　a　most　beautiful　suspension　bridge　completed　in　1820；　the　result　
of　the　mental　and　manual　labours　of　the　ingenious　Telford；　the　
other　is　a　tubular　railroad　bridge；　a　wonderful　structure；　no　
doubt；　but　anything　but　graceful。　　We　remained　for　some　time　on　the　
first　bridge；　admiring　the　scenery；　and　were　not　a　little　
delighted；　as　we　stood　leaning　over　the　principal　arch；　to　see　a　
proud　vessel　pass　beneath　us　in　full　sail。

Satiated　with　gazing　we　passed　into　Anglesey；　and　making　our　way　to　
the　tubular　bridge；　which　is　to　the　west　of　the　suspension　one；　
entered　one　of　its　passages　and　returned　to　the　main　land。

The　air　was　exceedingly　hot　and　sultry；　and　on　coming　to　a　stone　
bench；　beneath　a　shady　wall；　we　both　sat　down；　panting；　on　one　end　
of　it；　as　we　were　resting　ourselves；　a　shabby…looking　man　with　a　
bundle　of　books　came　and　seated　himself　at　the　other　end；　placing　
his　bundle　beside　him；　then　taking　out　from　his　pocket　a　dirty　red　
handkerchief；　he　wiped　his　face；　which　was　bathed　in　perspiration；　
and　ejaculated：　　〃By　Jasus；　it　is　blazing　hot！〃

〃Very　hot；　my　friend；〃　said　I；　〃have　you　travelled　far　to…day？〃

〃I　have　not；　your　hanner；　I　have　been　just　walking　about　the　dirty　
town　trying　to　sell　my　books。〃

〃Have　you　been　successful？〃

〃I　have　not；　your　hanner；　only　three　pence　have　I　taken　this　
blessed　day。〃

〃What　do　your　books　treat　of？〃

〃Why；　that　is　more　than　I　can　tell　your　hanner；　my　trade　is　to　sell　
the　books　not　to　read　them。　　Would　your　hanner　like　to　look　at　
them？〃

〃Oh　dear　no；〃　said　I；　〃I　have　long　been　tired　of　books；　I　have　had　
enough　of　them。〃

〃I　daresay；　your　hanner；　from　the　state　of　your　hanner's　eyes　I　
should　say　as　much；　they　look　so　weak　…　picking　up　learning　has　
ruined　your　hanner's　sight。〃

〃May　I　ask；〃　said　I；　〃from　what　country　you　are？〃

〃Sure　your　hanner　may；　and　it　is　a　civil　answer　you　will　get　from　
Michael　Sullivan。　　It　is　from　ould　Ireland　I　am；　from　Castlebar　in　
the　county　Mayo。〃

〃And　how　came　you　into　Wales？〃

〃From　the　hope　of　bettering　my　condition；　your　hanner；　and　a　
foolish　hope　it　was。〃

〃You　have　not　bettered　your　condition；　then？〃

〃I　have　not；　your　hanner；　for　I　suffer　quite　as　much　hunger　and　
thirst　as　ever　I　did　in　ould　Ireland。〃

〃Did　you　sell　books　in　Ireland？〃

〃I　did　nat；　yer　hanner；　I　made　buttons　and　clothes　…　that　is　I　
pieced　them。　　I　was　several　trades　in　ould　Ireland；　your　hanner；　
but　none　of　them　answering；　I　came　over　here。〃

〃Where　you　commenced　book…selling？〃　said　I。

〃I　did　nat；　your　hanner。　　I　first　sold　laces；　and　then　I　sold　
loocifers；　and　then　something　else；　I　have　followed　several　trades　
in　Wales；　your　hanner；　at　last　I　got　into　the　book…selling　trade；　
in　which　I　now　am。〃

〃And　it　answers；　I　suppose；　as　badly　as　the　others？〃

〃Just　as　badly；　your　hanner；　divil　a　bit　better。〃

〃I　suppose　you　never　beg？〃

〃Your　hanner　may　say　that；　I　was　always　too　proud　to　beg。　　It　is　
begging　I　laves　to　the　wife　I　have。〃

〃Then　you　have　a　wife？〃

〃I　have；　your　hanner；　and　a　daughter；　too；　and　a　good　wife　and　
daughter　they　are。　　What　would　become　of　me　without　them　I　do　not　
know。〃

〃Have　you　been　long　in　Wales？〃

〃Not　very　long；　your　hanner；　only　about　twenty　years。〃

〃Do　you　travel　much　about？〃

〃All　over　North　Wales；　your　hanner；　to　say　nothing　of　the　southern　
country。〃

〃I　suppose　you　speak　Welsh？〃

〃Not　a　word；　your　hanner。　　The　Welsh　speak　their　language　so　fast；　
that　divil　a　word　could　I　ever　contrive　to　pick　up。〃

〃Do　you　speak　Irish？〃

〃I　do；　yer　hanner；　that　is　when　people　spake　to　me　in　it。〃

I　spoke　to　him　in　Irish；　after　a　little　discourse　he　said　in　
English：

〃I　see　your　hanner　is　a　Munster　man。　　Ah！　all　the　learned　men　comes　
from　Munster。　　Father　Toban　comes　from　Munster。〃

〃I　have　heard　of　him　once　or　twice　before；〃　said　I。

〃I　daresay　your　hanner　has。　　Every　one　has　heard　of　Father　Toban；　
the　greatest　scholar　in　the　world；　who　they；　say　stands　a　better　
chance　of　being　made　Pope；　some　day　or　other；　than　any　saggart　in　
Ireland。〃

〃Will　you　take　sixpence？〃

〃I　will；　your　hanner；　if　your　hanner　offers　it；　but　I　never　beg；　I　
leave　that　kind　of　work　to　my　wife　and　daughter　as　I　said　before。〃

After　giving　him　the　sixpence；　which　he　received　with　a　lazy　〃thank　
your　hanner；〃　I　got　up；　and　followed　by　my　daughter　returned　to　the　
town。

Henrietta　went　to　the　inn；　and　I　again　strolled　about　the　town。　　As　
I　was　standing　in　the　middle　of　one　of　the　business　streets　I　
suddenly　heard　a　loud　and　dissonant　gabbling；　and　glancing　around　
beheld　a　number　of　wild…looking　people；　male　and　female。　　Wild　
looked　the　men；　yet　wilder　the　women。　　The　men　were　very　lightly　
clad；　and　were　all　barefooted　and　bareheaded；　they　carried　stout　
sticks　in　their　hands。　　The　women　were　barefooted　too；　but　had　for　
the　most　part　head…dresses；　their　garments　consisted　of　blue　cloaks　
and　striped　gingham　gowns。　　All　the　females　had　common　tin　articles　
in　their　hands　which　they　offered　for　sale　with　violent　gestures　to　
the　people　in　the　streets；　as　they　walked　along；　occasionally　
darting　into　the　shops；　from　which；　however；　they　were　almost　
invariably　speedily　ejected　by　the　startled　proprietors；　with　looks　
of　disgust　and　almost　horror。　　Two　ragged；　red…haired　lads　led　a　
gaunt　pony；　drawing　a　creaking　cart；　stored　with　the　same　kind　of　
articles　of　tin；　which　the　women　bore。　　Poorly　clad；　dusty　and　
soiled　as　they　were；　they　all　walked　with　a　free；　independent；　and　
almost　graceful　carriage。

〃Are　those　people　from　Ireland？〃　said　I　to　a　decent…looking　man；　
seemingly　a　mechanic；　who　stood　near　me；　and　was　also　looking　at　
them；　but　with　anything　but　admiration。

〃I　am　sorry　to　say　they　are；　sir；〃　said　the　man；　who　from　his　
accent　was　evidently　an　Irishman；　〃for　they　are　a　disgrace　to　their　
country。〃

I　did　not　exactly　think　so。　　I　thought　that　in　many　respects　they　
were　fine　specimens　of　humanity。

〃Every　one　of　those　wild　fellows；〃　said　I　to　myself；　〃is　worth　a　
dozen　of　the　poor　mean…spirited　book…tramper　I　have　lately　been　
discoursing　with。〃

In　the　afternoon　I　again　passed　over　into　Anglesey；　but　this　time　
not　by　the　bridge　but　by　the　ferry　on　the　north…east　of　Bangor；　
intending　to　go　to　Beaumaris；　about　two　or　three　miles　distant：　　an　
excellent　road；　on　the　left　side　of　which　is　a　high　bank　fringed　
with　dwarf　oaks；　and　on　the　right　the　Menai　strait；　leads　to　it。　　
Beaumaris　is　at　present　a　watering…place。　　On　one　side　of　it；　close　
upon　the　sea；　stand　the　ruins　of　an　immense　castle；　once　a　Norman　
stronghold；　but　built　on　the　site　of　a　palace　belonging　to　the　
ancient　kings　of　North　Wales；　and　a　favourite　residence　of　the　
celebrated　Owain　Gwynedd；　the　father　of　the　yet　more　celebrated　
Madoc；　the　original　discoverer　of　America。　　I　proceeded　at　once　to　
the　castle；　and　clambering　to　the　top　of　one　of　the　turrets；　looked　
upon　Beaumaris　Bay；　and　the　noble　rocky　coast　of　the　mainland　to　
the　south…east　beyond　it；　the　most　remarkable　object　of　which　is　
the　gigantic　Penman　Mawr；　which　interpreted　is　〃the　great　head…
stone；〃　the　termination　of　a　range　of　craggy　hills　descending　from　
the　Snowdon　mountains。

〃What　a　bay！〃　said　I；　〃for　beauty　it　is　superior　to　the　far…famed　
one　of　Naples。　　A　proper　place　for　the　keels　to　start　from；　which；　
unguided　by　the　compass；　found　their　way　over　the　mighty　and　
mysterious　Western　Ocean。〃

I　repeated　all　the　Bardic　lines　I　could　remember　connected　with　
Madoc's　expedition；　and　likewise　many　from　the　Madoc　of　Southey；　
not　the　least　of　Britain's　four　great　latter　poets；　decidedly　her　
best　prose　writer；　and　probably　the　purest　and　most　noble　character　
to　which　she　has　ever　given　birth；　and　then；　after　a　long；　
lingering　look；　descended　from　my　altitude；　and　returned；　not　by　
the　ferry；　but　by　the　suspension　bridge　to　the　mainland。



CHAPTER　XXVIII



Robert　Lleiaf　…　Prophetic　Englyn　…　The　Second　Sight　…　Duncan　
Campbell　…　Nial's　Saga　…　Family　of　Nial　…　Gunnar　…　The　Avenger。


〃AV　i　dir　Mon；　cr　dwr　Menai；
Tros　y　traeth；　ond　aros　trai。〃

〃I　will　go　to　the　land　of　Mona；　notwithstanding　the　water　of　the　
Menai；　across　the　sand；　without　waiting　for　the　ebb。〃

SO　sang　a　bard　about　two　hundred　and　forty　years　ago；　who　styled　
himself　Robert　Lleiaf；　or　the　least　of　the　Roberts。　　The　meaning　of　
the　couplet　has　always　been　considered　to　be；　and　doubtless　is；　
that　a　time　would　come　when　a　bridge　would　be　built　across　the　
Menai；　over　which　one　might　pass　with　safety　and　comfort；　without　
waiting　till　the　ebb　was　sufficiently　low　to　permit　people　to　pass　
over　the　traeth；　or　sand；　which；　from　ages　the　most　remote；　had　
been　used　as　the　means　of　communication　between　the　mainland　and　
the　Isle　of　Mona　or　Anglesey。　　Grounding　their　hopes　upon　that　
couplet；　people　were　continually　expecting　to　see　a　bridge　across　
the　Menai：　　more　than　two　hundred　years；　however；　elapsed　before　
the　expectation　was　fulfilled　by　the　mighty　Telford　flinging　over　
the　strait　an　iron　suspension　bridge；　which；　for　grace　and　beauty；　
has　perhaps　no　rival　in　Europe。

The　couplet　is　a　remarkable　one。　　In　the　time　of　its　author　there　
was　nobody　in　Britain　capable　of　building　a　bridge；　which　could　
have　stood　against　the　tremendous　surges　which　occasionally　vex　the　
Menai；　yet　the　couplet　gives　intimation　that　a　bridge　over　the　
Menai　there　would　be；　which　clearly　argues　a　remarkable　foresight　
in　the　author；　a　feeling　that　a　time　would　at　length　arrive　when　
the　power　of　science　would　be　so　far　advanced；　that　men　would　be　
able　to　bridge　over　the　terrible　strait。　　The　length　of　time　which　
intervened　between　the　composition　of　the　couplet　and　the　
fulfilment　of　the　promise；　shows　that　a　bridge　over　the　Menai　was　
no　pont　y　meibion；　no　children's　bridge；　nor　a　work　for　common　men。　　
Oh；　surely　Lleiaf　was　a　man　of　great　foresight！

A　man　of　great　foresight；　but　nothing　more；　he　foretold　a　bridge　
over　the　Menai；　when　no　one　could　have　built　one；　a　bridge　over　
which　people　could　pass；　aye；　and　carts　and　horses；　we　will　allow　
him　the　credit　of　foretelling　such　a　bridge；　and　when　Telford's　
bridge　was　flung　over　the　Menai；　Lleiaf's　couplet　was　verified。　　
But　since　Telford's　another　bridge　has　been　built　over　the　Menai；　
which　enables　things　to　pass　which　the　bard　certainly　never　dreamt　
of。　　He　never　hinted　at　a　bridge　over　which　thundering　trains　would　
dash；　if　required；　at　the　rate　of　fifty　miles　an　hour；　he　never　
hinted　at　steam　travelling；　or　a　railroad　bridge；　and　the　second　
bridge　over　the　Menai　is　one。

That　Lleiaf　was　a　man　of　remarkable　foresight；　cannot　be　denied；　
but　there　are　no　grounds　which　entitle　him　to　be　considered　a　
possessor　of　the　second　sight。　　He　foretold　a　bridge；　but　not　a　
railroad　bridge；　had　he　foretold　a　railroad　bridge；　or　hinted　at　
the　marvels　of　steam；　his　claim　to　the　second　sight　would　have　been　
incontestable。

What　a　triumph　for　Wales；　what　a　triumph　for　bardism