wild wales-第34章

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three　sides　by　a　low　wall。　　In　the　middle　of　it　is　a　rude　cabin；　in　
which　refreshments　are　sold；　and　in　which　a　person　resides　through　
the　year；　though　there　are　few　or　no　visitors　to　the　hill's　top；　
except　during　the　months　of　summer。　　Below　on　all　sides　are　
frightful　precipices　except　on　the　side　of　the　west。　　Towards　the　
east　it　looks　perpendicularly　into　the　dyffrin　or　vale；　nearly　a　
mile　below；　from　which　to　the　gazer　it　is　at　all　times　an　object　of　
admiration；　of　wonder　and　almost　of　fear。

There　we　stood　on　the　Wyddfa；　in　a　cold　bracing　atmosphere；　though　
the　day　was　almost　stiflingly　hot　in　the　regions　from　which　we　had　
ascended。　　There　we　stood　enjoying　a　scene　inexpressibly　grand；　
comprehending　a　considerable　part　of　the　mainland　of　Wales；　the　
whole　of　Anglesey；　a　faint　glimpse　of　part　of　Cumberland；　the　Irish　
Channel；　and　what　might　be　either　a　misty　creation　or　the　shadowy　
outline　of　the　hills　of　Ireland。　　Peaks　and　pinnacles　and　huge　
moels　stood　up　here　and　there；　about　us　and　below　us；　partly　in　
glorious　light；　partly　in　deep　shade。　　Manifold　were　the　objects　
which　we　saw　from　the　brow　of　Snowdon；　but　of　all　the　objects　which　
we　saw；　those　which　filled　us　with　delight　and　admiration；　were　
numerous　lakes　and　lagoons；　which；　like　sheets　of　ice　or　polished　
silver；　lay　reflecting　the　rays　of　the　sun　in　the　deep　valleys　at　
his　feet。

〃Here；〃　said　I　to　Henrietta；　〃you　are　on　the　top　crag　of　Snowdon；　
which　the　Welsh　consider；　and　perhaps　with　justice；　to　be　the　most　
remarkable　crag　in　the　world；　which　is　mentioned　in　many　of　their　
old　wild　romantic　tales；　and　some　of　the　noblest　of　their　poems；　
amongst　others　in　the　'Day　of　Judgment；'　by　the　illustrious　Goronwy　
Owen；　where　it　is　brought　forward　in　the　following　manner：


〃'Ail　i'r　ar　ael　Eryri；
Cyfartal　hoewal　a　hi。'

〃'The　brow　of　Snowdon　shall　be　levelled　with　the　ground；　and　the　
eddying　waters　shall　murmur　round　it。'


〃You　are　now　on　the　top　crag　of　Snowdon；　generally　termed　Y　Wyddfa；　
（6）　which　means　a　conspicuous　place　or　tumulus；　and　which　is　
generally　in　winter　covered　with　snow；　about　which　snow　there　are　
in　the　Welsh　language　two　curious　englynion　or　stanzas　consisting　
entirely　of　vowels　with　the　exception　of　one　consonant；　namely　the　
letter　R。


〃'Oer　yw'r　Eira　ar　Eryri；　…　o'ryw
Ar　awyr　i　rewi；
Oer　yw'r　ia　ar　riw　'r　ri；
A'r　Eira　oer　yw　'Ryri。

〃'O　Ri　y'Ryri　yw'r　oera；　…　o'r　ar；
Ar　oror　wir　arwa；
O'r　awyr　a　yr　Eira；
O'i　ryw　i　roi　rew　a'r　ia。'

〃'Cold　is　the　snow　on　Snowdon's　brow
It　makes　the　air　so　chill；
For　cold；　I　trow；　there　is　no　snow
Like　that　of　Snowdon's　hill。

〃'A　hill　most　chill　is　Snowdon's　hill；
And　wintry　is　his　brow；
From　Snowdon's　hill　the　breezes　chill
Can　freeze　the　very　snow。'〃


Such　was　the　harangue　which　I　uttered　on　the　top　of　Snowdon；　to　
which　Henrietta　listened　with　attention；　three　or　four　English；　who　
stood　nigh；　with　grinning　scorn；　and　a　Welsh　gentleman　with　
considerable　interest。　　The　latter　coming　forward　shook　me　by　the　
hand　exclaiming　…

〃Wyt　ti　Lydaueg？〃

〃I　am　not　a　Llydauan；〃　said　I；　〃I　wish　I　was；　or　anything　but　what　
I　am；　one　of　a　nation　amongst　whom　any　knowledge　save　what　relates　
to　money…making　and　over…reaching　is　looked　upon　as　a　disgrace。　　I　
am　ashamed　to　say　that　I　am　an　Englishman。〃

I　then　returned　his　shake　of　the　hand；　and　bidding　Henrietta　and　
the　guide　follow　me；　went　into　the　cabin；　where　Henrietta　had　some　
excellent　coffee　and　myself　and　the　guide　a　bottle　of　tolerable　
ale；　very　much　refreshed　we　set　out　on　our　return。

A　little　way　from　the　top；　on　the　right…hand　side　as　you　descend；　
there　is　a　very　steep　path　running　down　in　a　zigzag　manner　to　the　
pass　which　leads　to　Capel　Curig。　　Up　this　path　it　is　indeed　a　task　
of　difficulty　to　ascend　to　the　Wyddfa；　the　one　by　which　we　mounted　
being　comparatively　easy。　　On　Henrietta's　pointing　out　to　me　a　
plant；　which　grew　on　a　crag　by　the　side　of　this　path　some　way　down；　
I　was　about　to　descend　in　order　to　procure　it　for　her；　when　our　
guide　springing　forward　darted　down　the　path　with　the　agility　of　a　
young　goat；　in　less　than　a　minute　returned　with　it　in　his　hand　and　
presented　it　gracefully　to　the　dear　girl；　who　on　examining　it　said　
it　belonged　to　a　species　of　which　she　had　long　been　desirous　of　
possessing　a　specimen。　　Nothing　material　occurred　in　our　descent　to　
Llanberis；　where　my　wife　was　anxiously　awaiting　us。　　The　ascent　and　
descent　occupied　four　hours。　　About　ten　o'clock　at　night　we　again　
found　ourselves　at　Bangor。



CHAPTER　XXX



Gronwy　Owen　…　Struggles　of　Genius　…　The　Stipend。


THE　day　after　our　expedition　to　Snowdon　I　and　my　family　parted；　
they　returning　by　railroad　to　Chester　and　Llangollen　whilst　I　took　
a　trip　into　Anglesey　to　visit　the　birth…place　of　the　great　poet　
Goronwy　Owen；　whose　works　I　had　read　with　enthusiasm　in　my　early　
years。

Goronwy　or　Gronwy　Owen；　was　born　in　the　year　1722；　at　a　place　
called　Llanfair　Mathafarn　Eithaf　in　Anglesey。　　He　was　the　eldest　of　
three　children。　　His　parents　were　peasants　and　so　exceedingly　poor　
that　they　were　unable　to　send　him　to　school。　　Even；　however；　when　
an　unlettered　child　he　gave　indications　that　he　was　visited　by　the　
awen　or　muse。　　At　length　the　celebrated　Lewis　Morris　chancing　to　be　
at　Llanfair　became　acquainted　with　the　boy；　and　struck　with　his　
natural　talents；　determined　that　he　should　have　all　the　benefit　
which　education　could　bestow。　　He　accordingly；　at　his　own　expense　
sent　him　to　school　at　Beaumaris；　where　he　displayed　a　remarkable　
aptitude　for　the　acquisition　of　learning。　　He　subsequently　sent　him　
to　Jesus　College；　Oxford；　and　supported　him　there　whilst　studying　
for　the　church。　　Whilst　at　Jesus；　Gronwy　distinguished　himself　as　a　
Greek　and　Latin　scholar；　and　gave　such　proofs　of　poetical　talent　in　
his　native　language；　that　he　was　looked　upon　by　his　countrymen　of　
that　Welsh　college　as　the　rising　Bard　of　the　age。　　After　completing　
his　collegiate　course　he　returned　to　Wales；　where　he　was　ordained　a　
minister　of　the　Church　in　the　year　1745。　　The　next　seven　years　of　
his　life　were　a　series　of　cruel　disappointments　and　pecuniary　
embarrassments。　　The　grand　wish　of　his　heart　was　to　obtain　a　curacy　
and　to　settle　down　in　Wales。　　Certainly　a　very　reasonable　wish。　　To　
say　nothing　of　his　being　a　great　genius；　he　was　eloquent；　highly　
learned；　modest；　meek　and　of　irreproachable　morals；　yet　Gronwy　Owen　
could　obtain　no　Welsh　curacy；　nor　could　his　friend　Lewis　Morris；　
though　he　exerted　himself　to　the　utmost；　procure　one　for　him。　　It　
is　true　that　he　was　told　that　he　might　go　to　Llanfair；　his　native　
place；　and　officiate　there　at　a　time　when　the　curacy　happened　to　be　
vacant；　and　thither　he　went；　glad　at　heart　to　get　back　amongst　his　
old　friends；　who　enthusiastically　welcomed　him；　yet　scarcely　had　he　
been　there　three　weeks　when　he　received　notice　from　the　Chaplain　of　
the　Bishop　of　Bangor　that　he　must　vacate　Llanfair　in　order　to　make　
room　for　a　Mr　John　Ellis；　a　young　clergyman　of　large　independent　
fortune；　who　was　wishing　for　a　curacy　under　the　Bishop　of　Bangor；　
Doctor　Hutton　…　so　poor　Gronwy　the　eloquent；　the　learned；　the　meek；　
was　obliged　to　vacate　the　pulpit　of　his　native　place　to　make　room　
for　the　rich　young　clergyman；　who　wished　to　be　within　dining　
distance　of　the　palace　of　Bangor。　　Truly　in　this　world　the　full　
shall　be　crammed；　and　those　who　have　little；　shall　have　the　little　
which　they　have　taken　away　from　them。　　Unable　to　obtain　employment　
in　Wales　Gronwy　sought　for　it　in　England；　and　after　some　time　
procured　the　curacy　of　Oswestry　in　Shropshire；　where　he　married　a　
respectable　young　woman；　who　eventually　brought　him　two　sons　and　a　
daughter。

From　Oswestry　he　went　to　Donnington　near　Shrewsbury；　where　under　a　
certain　Scotchman　named　Douglas；　who　was　an　absentee；　and　who　died　
Bishop　of　Salisbury；　he　officiated　as　curate　and　master　of　a　
grammar　school　for　a　stipend　…　always　grudgingly　and　contumeliously　
paid　…　of　three…and…twenty　pounds　a　year。　　From　Donnington　he　
removed　to　Walton　in　Cheshire；　where　he　lost　his　daughter　who　was　
carried　off　by　a　fever。　　His　next　removal　was　to　Northolt；　a　
pleasant　village　in　the　neighbourhood　of　London。

He　held　none　of　his　curacies　long；　either　losing　them　from　the　
caprice　of　his　principals；　or　being　compelled　to　resign　them　from　
the　parsimony　which　they　practised　towards　him。　　In　the　year　1756　
he　was　living　in　a　garret　in　London　vainly　soliciting　employment　in　
his　sacred　calling；　and　undergoing　with　his　family　the　greatest　
privations。　　At　length　his　friend　Lewis　Morris；　who　had　always　
assisted　him　to　the　utmost　of　his　ability；　procured　him　the　
mastership　of　a　government　school　at　New　Brunswick　in　North　America　
with　a　salary　of　three　hundred　pounds　a　year。　　Thither　he　went　with　
his　wife　and　family；　and　there　he　died　sometime　about　the　year　
1780。

He　was　the　last　of　the　great　poets　of　Cambria　and；　with　the　
exception　of　Ab　Gwilym；　the　greatest　which　she　has　produced。　　His　
poems　which　for　a　long　time　had　circulated　through　Wales　in　
manuscript　were　first　printed　in　the　year　1819。　　They　are　composed　
in　the　ancient　Bardic　measures；　and　were　with　one　exception；　namely　
an　elegy　on　the　death　of　his　benefactor　Lewis　Morris；　which　was　
transmitted　from　the　New　World；　written　before　he　had　attained　the　
age　of　thirty…five。　　All　his　pieces　are　excellent；　but　his　
masterwork　is　decidedly　the　Cywydd　y　Farn　or　〃Day　of　Judgment。〃　　
This　poem　which　is　generally　considered　by　the　Welsh　as　the　
brightest　ornament　of　their　ancient　language；　was　composed　at　
Donnington；　a　small　hamlet　in　Shropshire　on　the　north…west　spur　of　
the　Wrekin；　at　which　place；　as　has　been　already　said；　Gronwy　toiled　
as　schoolmaster　and　curate　under　Douglas　the　Scot；　for　a　stipend　of　
three…and…twenty　pounds　a　year。



CHAPTER　XXXI



Start　for　Anglesey　…　The　Post…Master　…　Asking　Questions　…　Mynydd　
Lydiart　…　Mr　Pritchard　…　Way　to　Llanfair。


WHEN　I　started　from　Bangor；　to　visit　the　birth…place　of　Gronwy　
Owen；　I　by　no　means　saw　my　way　clearly　before　me。　　I　knew　that　he　
was　born　in　Anglesey　in　a　parish　called　Llanfair　Mathafarn　eithaf；　
that　is　St　Mary's　of　farther　Mathafarn　…　but　as　to　where　this　
Mathafarn　lay；　north　or　south；　near　or　far；　I　knew　positively　
nothing。　　Passing　through　the　northern　suburb　of　Bangor　I　saw　a　
small　house　in　front　of　which　was　written　〃post…office〃　in　white　
letters；　before　this　house　underneath　a　shrub　in　a　little　garden　
sat　an　old　man　reading。　　Thinking　that　from　this　person；　whom　I　
judged　to　be　the　post…master；　I　was　as　likely　to　obtain　information　
with　respect　to　the　place　of　my　destination　as　from　any　one；　I　
stopped；　and　taking　off　my　hat　for　a　moment；　inquired　whether　he　
could　tell　me　anything　about　the　direction　of　a　place　called　
Llanfair　Mathafarn　eithaf。　　He　did　not　seem　to　understand　my　
question；　for　getting　up　he　came　towards　me　and　asked　what　I　
wanted：　　I　repeated　what　I　had　said；　whereupon　his　face　became　
animated。

〃Llanfair　Mathafarn　eithaf！〃　said　he。　　〃Yes；　I　can　tell　you　about　
it；　and　with　good　reason；　for　it　lies　not　far　from　the　place　where　
I　was　born。〃