wild wales-第37章

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telling　him　that　I　could　find　the　way　to　the　house　of　Gronwy　very　
well　by　myself；　he　consented。　　We　shook　hands；　the　miller　wished　me　
luck；　and　betook　himself　to　his　mill；　whilst　I　crossed　the　llamfa。　　
I　soon；　however；　repented　having　left　the　path　by　which　I　had　come。　　
I　was　presently　in　a　maze　of　little　fields　with　stone　walls　over　
which　I　had　to　clamber。　　At　last　I　got　into　a　lane　with　a　stone　
wall　on　each　side。　　A　man　came　towards　me　and　was　about　to　pass　me　
…　his　look　was　averted；　and　he　was　evidently　one　of　those　who　have　
〃no　English。〃　　A　Welshman　of　his　description　always　averting　his　
look　when　he　sees　a　stranger　who　he　thinks　has　〃no　Welsh；〃　lest　the　
stranger　should　ask　him　a　question　and　he　be　obliged　to　confess　
that　he　has　〃no　English。〃

〃Is　this　the　way　to　Llanfair？〃　said　I　to　the　man。　　The　man　made　a　
kind　of　rush　in　order　to　get　past　me。

〃Have　you　any　Welsh？〃　I　shouted　as　loud　as　I　could　bawl。

The　man　stopped；　and　turning　a　dark　sullen　countenance　half　upon　me　
said；　〃Yes；　I　have　Welsh。〃

〃Which　is　the　way　to　Llanfair？〃　said　I。

〃Llanfair；　Llanfair？〃　said　the　man；　〃what　do　you　mean？〃

〃I　want　to　get　there；〃　said　I。

〃Are　you　not　there　already？〃　said　the　fellow　stamping　on　the　
ground；　〃are　you　not　in　Llanfair？

〃Yes；　but　I　want　to　get　to　the　town。〃

〃Town；　town！　　Oh；　I　have　no　English；〃　said　the　man；　and　off　he　
started　like　a　frighted　bullock。　　The　poor　fellow　was　probably　at　
first　terrified　at　seeing　an　Englishman；　then　confused　at　hearing　
an　Englishman　speak　Welsh；　a　language　which　the　Welsh　in　general　
imagine　no　Englishman　can　speak；　the　tongue　of　an　Englishman　as　
they　say　not　being　long　enough　to　pronounce　Welsh；　and　lastly　
utterly　deprived　of　what　reasoning　faculties　he　had　still　remaining　
by　my　asking　him　for　the　town　of　Llanfair；　there　being　properly　no　
town。

I　went　on；　and　at　last　getting　out　of　the　lane；　found　myself　upon　
the　road；　along　which　I　had　come　about　two　hours　before；　the　house　
of　the　miller　was　at　some　distance　on　my　right。　　Near　me　were　two　
or　three　houses　and　part　of　the　skeleton　of　one；　on　which　some　men；　
in　the　dress　of　masons；　seemed　to　be　occupied。　　Going　up　to　these　
men　I　said　in　Welsh　to　one；　whom　I　judged　to　be　the　principal；　and　
who　was　rather　a　tall　fine…looking　fellow：

〃Have　you　heard　a　sound　of　Gronwy　Owain？〃

Here　occurred　another　instance　of　the　strange　things　people　do　when　
their　ideas　are　confused。　　The　man　stood　for　a　moment　or　two；　as　if　
transfixed；　a　trowel　motionless　in　one　of　his　hands；　and　a　brick　in　
the　other；　at　last　giving　a　kind　of　gasp；　he　answered　in　very　
tolerable　Spanish：

〃Si；　senor！　he　oido。〃

〃Is　his　house　far　from　here？〃　said　I　in　Welsh。

〃No；　senor！〃　said　the　man；　〃no　esta　muy　lejos。〃

〃I　am　a　stranger　here；　friend；　can　anybody　show　me　the　way？〃

〃Si　senor！　este　mozo　luego　…　acompanara　usted。〃

Then　turning　to　a　lad　of　about　eighteen；　also　dressed　as　a　mason；　
he　said　in　Welsh：

〃Show　this　gentleman　instantly　the　way　to　Tafarn　Goch。〃

The　lad　flinging　a　hod　down；　which　he　had　on　his　shoulder；　
instantly　set　off；　making　me　a　motion　with　his　head　to　follow　him。　　
I　did　so；　wondering　what　the　man　could　mean　by　speaking　to　me　in　
Spanish。　　The　lad　walked　by　my　side　in　silence　for　about　two　
furlongs　till　we　came　to　a　range　of　trees；　seemingly　sycamores；　
behind　which　was　a　little　garden；　in　which　stood　a　long　low　house　
with　three　chimneys。　　The　lad　stopping　flung　open　a　gate　which　led　
into　the　garden；　then　crying　to　a　child　which　he　saw　within：　　〃Gad　
roi　tro〃　…　let　the　man　take　a　turn；　he　was　about　to　leave　me；　when　
I　stopped　him　to　put　sixpence　into　his　hand。　　He　received　the　money　
with　a　gruff　〃Diolch！〃　and　instantly　set　off　at　a　quick　pace。　　
Passing　the　child　who　stared　at　me；　I　walked　to　the　back　part　of　
the　house；　which　seemed　to　be　a　long　mud　cottage。　　After　examining　
the　back　part　I　went　in　front；　where　I　saw　an　aged　woman　with　
several　children；　one　of　whom　was　the　child　I　had　first　seen。　　She　
smiled　and　asked　me　what　I　wanted。

I　said　that　I　had　come　to　see　the　house　of　Gronwy。　　She　did　not　
understand　me；　for　shaking　her　head　she　said　that　she　had　no　
English；　and　was　rather　deaf。　　Raising　my　voice　to　a　very　high　tone　
I　said：

〃Ty　Gronwy！〃

A　gleam　of　intelligence　flashed　now　in　her　eyes。

〃Ty　Gronwy；〃　she　said；　〃ah！　　I　understand。　　Come　in　sir。〃

There　were　three　doors　to　the　house；　she　led　me　in　by　the　midmost　
into　a　common　cottage　room；　with　no　other　ceiling；　seemingly；　than　
the　roof。　　She　bade　me　sit　down　by　the　window　by　a　little　table；　
and　asked　me　whether　I　would　have　a　cup　of　milk　and　some　bread…and…
butter；　I　declined　both；　but　said　I　should　be　thankful　for　a　little　
water。

This　she　presently　brought　me　in　a　teacup；　I　drank　it；　the　children　
amounting　to　five　standing　a　little　way　from　me　staring　at　me。　　I　
asked　her　if　this　was　the　house　in　which　Gronwy　was　born。　　She　said　
it　was；　but　that　it　had　been　altered　very　much　since　his　time　…　
that　three　families　had　lived　in　it；　but　that　she　believed　he　was　
born　about　where　we　were　now。

A　man　now　coming　in　who　lived　at　the　next　door；　she　said　I　had　
better　speak　to　him　and　tell　him　what　I　wanted　to　know；　which　he　
could　then　communicate　to　her；　as　she　could　understand　his　way　of　
speaking　much　better　than　mine。　　Through　the　man　I　asked　her　
whether　there　was　any　one　of　the　blood　of　Gronwy　Owen　living　in　the　
house。　　She　pointed　to　the　children　and　said　they　had　all　some　of　
his　blood。　　I　asked　in　what　relationship　they　stood　to　Gronwy。　　She　
said　she　could　hardly　tell；　that　tri　priodas；　three　marriages　stood　
between；　and　that　the　relationship　was　on　the　mother's　side。　　I　
gathered　from　her　that　the　children　had　lost　their　mother；　that　
their　name　was　Jones；　and　that　their　father　was　her　son。　　I　asked　
if　the　house　in　which　they　lived　was　their　own；　she　said　no；　that　
it　belonged　to　a　man　who　lived　at　some　distance。　　I　asked　if　the　
children　were　poor。

〃Very；〃　said　she。

I　gave　them　each　a　trifle；　and　the　poor　old　lady　thanked　me　with　
tears　in　her　eyes。

I　asked　whether　the　children　could　read；　she　said　they　all　could；　
with　the　exception　of　the　two　youngest。　　The　eldest　she　said　could　
read　anything；　whether　Welsh　or　English；　she　then　took　from　the　
window…sill　a　book；　which　she　put　into　my　hand；　saying　the　child　
could　read　it　and　understand　it。　　I　opened　the　book；　it　was　an　
English　school…book　treating　on　all　the　sciences。

〃Can　you　write？〃　said　I　to　the　child；　a　little　stubby　girl　of　about　
eight；　with　a　broad　flat　red　face　and　grey　eyes；　dressed　in　a　
chintz　gown；　a　little　bonnet　on　her　head；　and　looking　the　image　of　
notableness。

The　little　maiden；　who　had　never　taken　her　eyes　off　of　me　for　a　
moment　during　the　whole　time　I　had　been　in　the　room；　at　first　made　
no　answer；　being；　however；　bid　by　her　grandmother　to　speak；　she　at　
length　answered　in　a　soft　voice；　〃Medraf；　I　can。〃

〃Then　write　your　name　in　this　book；〃　said　I；　taking　out　a　pocket…
book　and　a　pencil；　〃and　write　likewise　that　you　are　related　to　
Gronwy　Owen　…　and　be　sure　you　write　in　Welsh。〃

The　little　maiden　very　demurely　took　the　book　and　pencil；　and　
placing　the　former　on　the　table　wrote　as　follows：

〃Ellen　Jones　yn　perthyn　o　bell　i　gronow　owen。〃

That　is；　〃Ellen　Jones　belonging　from　afar　to　Gronwy　Owen。〃

When　I　saw　the　name　of　Ellen　I　had　no　doubt　that　the　children　were　
related　to　the　illustrious　Gronwy。　　Ellen　is　a　very　uncommon　Welsh　
name；　but　it　seems　to　have　been　a　family　name　of　the　Owens；　it　was　
borne　by　an　infant　daughter　of　the　poet　whom　he　tenderly　loved；　and　
who　died　whilst　he　was　toiling　at　Walton　in　Cheshire；　…


〃Ellen；　my　darling；
Who　liest　in　the　Churchyard　at　Walton。〃


says　poor　Gronwy　in　one　of　the　most　affecting　elegies　ever　written。

After　a　little　farther　conversation　I　bade　the　family　farewell　and　
left　the　house。　　After　going　down　the　road　a　hundred　yards　I　turned　
back　in　order　to　ask　permission　to　gather　a　leaf　from　one　of　the　
sycamores。　　Seeing　the　man　who　had　helped　me　in　my　conversation　
with　the　old　woman　standing　at　the　gate；　I　told　him　what　I　wanted；　
whereupon　he　instantly　tore　down　a　handful　of　leaves　and　gave　them　
to　me。　　Thrusting　them　into　my　coat…pocket　I　thanked　him　kindly　and　
departed。

Coming　to　the　half…erected　house；　I　again　saw　the　man　to　whom　I　had　
addressed　myself　for　information。　　I　stopped；　and　speaking　Spanish　
to　him；　asked　how　he　had　acquired　the　Spanish　language。

〃I　have　been　in　Chili；　sir；〃　said　he　in　the　same　tongue；　〃and　in　
California；　and　in　those　places　I　learned　Spanish。〃

〃What　did　you　go　to　Chili　for？〃　said　I；　〃I　need　not　ask　you　on　what　
account　you　went　to　California。〃

〃I　went　there　as　a　mariner；〃　said　the　man；　〃I　sailed　out　of　
Liverpool　for　Chili。〃

〃And　how　is　it；〃　said　I；　〃that　being　a　mariner　and　sailing　in　a　
Liverpool　ship　you　do　not　speak　English？〃

〃I　speak　English；　senor；〃　said　the　man；　〃perfectly　well。〃

〃Then　how　in　the　name　of　wonder；〃　said　I；　speaking　English；　〃came　
you　to　answer　me　in　Spanish？　　I　am　an　Englishman　thorough　bred。〃

〃I　can　scarcely　tell　you　how　it　was；　sir；〃　said　the　man　scratching　
his　head；　〃but　I　thought　I　would　speak　to　you　in　Spanish。〃

〃And　why　not　English？〃　said　I。

〃Why；　I　heard　you　speaking　Welsh；〃　said　the　man；　〃and　as　for　an　
Englishman　speaking　Welsh　…〃

〃But　why　not　answer　me　in　Welsh？〃　said　I。

〃Why；　I　saw　it　was　not　your　language；　sir；〃　said　the　man；　〃and　as　I　
had　picked　up　some　Spanish　I　thought　it　would　be　but　fair　to　answer　
you　in　it。〃

〃But　how　did　you　know　that　I　could　speak　Spanish？〃　said　I。

〃I　don't　know　indeed；　sir；〃　said　the　man；　〃but　I　looked　at　you；　and　
something　seemed　to　tell　me　that　you　could　speak　Spanish。　　I　can't　
tell　you　how　it　was　sir；〃　said　he；　looking　me　very　innocently　in　
the　face；　〃but　I　was　forced　to　speak　Spanish　to　you。　　I　was　
indeed！〃

〃The　long　and　the　short　of　it　was；〃　said　I；　〃that　you　took　me　for　a　
foreigner；　and　thought　that　it　would　be　but　polite　to　answer　me　in　
a　foreign　language。〃

〃I　daresay　it　was　so；　sir；〃　said　the　man。　　〃I　daresay　it　was　just　
as　you　say。〃

〃How　did　you　fare　in　California？〃　said　I。

〃Very　fairly　indeed；　sir；〃　said　the　man。　　〃I　made　some　money　there；　
and　brought　it　home；　and　with　part　of　it　I　am　building　this　house。〃

〃I　am　very　happy　to　hear　it；〃　said　I；　〃you　are　really　a　remarkable　
man　…　few　return　from　California　speaking　Spanish　as　you　do；　and　
still　fewer　with　money　in　their　pockets。〃

The　poor　fellow　looked　pleased　at　what　I　said；　more　especially　at　
that　part　of　the　sentence　which　touched　upon　his　speaking　Spanish　
well。　　Wishing　him　many　years　of　health　and　happiness　in　the　house　
he　was　building；　I　left　him；　and　proceeded　on　my　path　towards　
Pentraeth　Goch。

After　walking　some　way；　I　turned　round　in　order　to　take　a　last　look　
of　the　place　which　had　so　much　interest　for　me。　　The　mill　may　be　
seen　from　a　considerable　distance；　so　may　some　of　the　scattered　
houses；　and　also　the　wood　which　surrounds　the　house　of　the　
illustrious　Gronwy。　　Prosperity　to　Llanfair！　and　may　many　a　
pilgrimage　be　made　to　it　of　the　same　character　as　my　own。



CHAPTER　XXXIII