wild wales-第44章

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evidently　used　as　a　farm…house；　for　there　was　a　yard　adjoining　to　
it；　in　which　were　stacks　and　agricultural　implements。　　Observing　
two　men　in　the　yard；　I　went　in。　　They　were　respectable；　farm…
looking　men；　between　forty　and　fifty；　one　had　on　a　coat　and　hat；　
the　other　a　cap　and　jacket。　　〃Good　evening；〃　I　said　in　Welsh。

〃Good　evening；〃　they　replied　in　the　same　language；　looking　
inquiringly　at　me。

〃What　is　the　name　of　this　place？〃　said　I。

〃It　is　called　Ty　gwyn；〃　said　the　man　of　the　hat。

〃On　account　of　its　colour；　I　suppose？〃　said　I。

〃Just　so；〃　said　the　man　of　the　hat。

〃It　looks　old；〃　said　I。

〃And　it　is　old；〃　he　replied。　　〃In　the　time　of　the　Papists　it　was　
one　of　their　chapels。〃

〃Does　it　belong　to　you？〃　I　demanded。

〃Oh　no；　it　belongs　to　one　Mr　Sparrow　from　Liverpool。　　I　am　his　
bailiff；　and　this　man　is　a　carpenter　who　is　here　doing　a　job　for　
him。〃

Here　ensued　a　pause；　which　was　broken　by　the　man　of　the　hat　saying　
in　English；　to　the　man　of　the　cap：

〃Who　can　this　strange　fellow　be？　he　has　not　a　word　of　English；　and　
though　he　speaks　Welsh　his　Welsh　sounds　very　different　from　ours。　　
Who　can　he　be？〃

〃I　am　sure　I　don't　know；〃　said　the　other。

〃I　know　who　he　is；〃　said　the　first；　〃he　comes　from　Llydaw；　or　
Armorica；　which　was　peopled　from　Britain　estalom；　and　where　I　am　
told　the　real　old　Welsh　language　is　still　spoken。〃

〃I　think　I　heard　you　mention　the　word　Llydaw？〃　said　I；　to　the　man　
of　the　hat。

〃Ah；〃　said　the　man　of　the　hat；　speaking　Welsh；　〃I　was　right　after　
all；　oh；　I　could　have　sworn　you　were　Llydaweg。　　Well；　how　are　the　
descendants　of　the　ancient　Britons　getting　on　in　Llydaw？〃

〃They　are　getting　on　tolerably　well；〃　said　I；　〃when　I　last　saw　
them；　though　all　things　do　not　go　exactly　as　they　could　wish。〃

〃Of　course　not；〃　said　he　of　the　hat。　　〃We　too　have　much　to　complain　
of　here；　the　lands　are　almost　entirely　taken　possession　of　by　
Saxons；　wherever　you　go　you　will　find　them　settled；　and　a　Saxon　
bird　of　the　roof　must　build　its　nest　in　Gwyn　dy。〃

〃You　call　a　sparrow　in　your　Welsh　a　bird　of　the　roof；　do　you　not？〃　
said　I。

〃We　do；〃　said　he　of　the　hat。　　〃You　speak　Welsh　very　well　
considering　you　were　not　born　in　Wales。　　It　is　really　surprising　
that　the　men　of　Llydaw　should　speak　the　iaith　so　pure　as　they　do。〃

〃The　Welsh　when　they　went　over　there；〃　said　I；　〃took　effectual　
means　that　their　descendants　should　speak　good　Welsh；　if　all　tales　
be　true。〃

〃What　means？〃　said　he　of　the　hat。

〃Why；〃　said　I；　〃after　conquering　the　country　they　put　all　the　men　
to　death；　and　married　the　women；　but　before　a　child　was　born　they　
cut　out　all　the　women's　tongues；　so　that　the　only　language　the　
children　heard　when　they　were　born　was　pure　Cumraeg。　　What　do　you　
think　of　that？〃

〃Why；　that　it　was　a　cute　trick；〃　said　he　of　the　hat。

〃A　more　clever　trick　I　never　heard；〃　said　the　man　of　the　cap。

〃Have　you　any　memorials　in　the　neighbourhood　of　the　old　Welsh？〃　
said　I。

〃What　do　you　mean？〃　said　the　man　of　the　hat。

〃Any　altars　of　the　Druids？〃　said　I；　〃any　stone　tables？〃

〃None；〃　said　the　man　of　the　hat。

〃What　may　those　stones　be？〃　said　I；　pointing　to　the　stones　which　
had　struck　my　attention。

〃Mere　common　rocks；〃　said　the　man。

〃May　I　go　and　examine　them？〃　said　I。

〃Oh　yes！〃　said　he　of　the　hat；　〃and　we　will　go　with　you。〃

We　went　to　the　stones；　which　were　indeed　common　rocks；　and　which　
when　I　reached　them　presented　quite　a　different　appearance　from　
that　which　they　presented　to　my　eye　when　I　viewed　them　from　afar。

〃Are　there　many　altars　of　the　Druids　in　Llydaw？〃　said　the　man　of　
the　hat。

〃Plenty；〃　said　I；　〃but　those　altars　are　older　than　the　time　of　the　
Welsh　colonists；　and　were　erected　by　the　old　Gauls。〃

〃Well；〃　said　the　man　of　the　cap；　〃I　am　glad　I　have　seen　the　man　of　
Llydaw。〃

〃Whom　do　you　call　a　man　of　Llydaw？〃　said　I。

〃Whom　but　yourself？〃　said　he　of　the　hat。

〃I　am　not　a　man　of　Llydaw；〃　said　I　in　English；　〃but　Norfolk；　where　
the　people　eat　the　best　dumplings　in　the　world；　and　speak　the　
purest　English。　　Now　a　thousand　thanks　for　your　civility。　　I　would　
have　some　more　chat　with　you；　but　night　is　coming　on；　and　I　am　
bound　to　Holyhead。〃

Then　leaving　the　men　staring　after　me；　I　bent　my　steps　towards　
Holyhead。

I　passed　by　a　place　called　Llan　something；　standing　lonely　on　its　
hill。　　The　country　round　looked　sad　and　desolate。　　It　is　true　night　
had　come　on　when　I　saw　it。

On　I　hurried。　　The　voices　of　children　sounded　sweetly　at　a　distance　
across　the　wild　champaign　on　my　left。

It　grew　darker　and　darker。　　On　I　hurried　along　the　road；　at　last　I　
came　to　lone；　lordly　groves。　　On　my　right　was　an　open　gate　and　a　
lodge。　　I　went　up　to　the　lodge。　　The　door　was　open；　and　in　a　little　
room　I　beheld　a　nice…looking　old　lady　sitting　by　a　table；　on　which　
stood　a　lighted　candle；　with　her　eyes　fixed　on　a　large　book。

〃Excuse　me；〃　said　I；　〃but　who　owns　this　property？〃

The　old　lady　looked　up　from　her　book；　which　appeared　to　be　a　Bible；　
without　the　slightest　surprise；　though　I　certainly　came　upon　her　
unawares；　and　answered：

〃Mr　John　Wynn。〃

I　shortly　passed　through　a　large　village；　or　rather　town；　the　name　
of　which　I　did　not　learn。　　I　then　went　on　for　a　mile　or　two；　and　
saw　a　red　light　at　some　distance。　　The　road　led　nearly　up　to　it；　
and　then　diverged　towards　the　north。　　Leaving　the　road　I　made　
towards　the　light　by　a　lane；　and　soon　came　to　a　railroad　station。

〃You　won't　have　long　to　wait；　sir；〃　said　a　man；　〃the　train　to　
Holyhead　will　be　here　presently。〃

〃How　far　is　it　to　Holyhead？〃　said　I。

〃Two　miles；　sir；　and　the　fare　is　only　sixpence。〃

〃I　despise　railroads；〃　said　I；　〃and　those　who　travel　by　them；〃　and　
without　waiting　for　an　answer　returned　to　the　road。　　Presently　I　
heard　the　train　…　it　stopped　for　a　minute　at　the　station；　and　then　
continuing　its　course　passed　me　on　my　left　hand；　voiding　fierce　
sparks；　and　making　a　terrible　noise　…　the　road　was　a　melancholy　
one；　my　footsteps　sounded　hollow　upon　it。　　I　seemed　to　be　its　only　
traveller　…　a　wall　extended　for　a　long；　long　way　on　my　left。　　At　
length　I　came　to　a　turnpike。　　I　felt　desolate　and　wished　to　speak　
to　somebody。　　I　tapped　at　the　window；　at　which　there　was　a　light；　a　
woman　opened　it。　　〃How　far　to　Holyhead？〃　said　I　in　English。

〃Dim　Saesneg；〃　said　the　woman。

I　repeated　my　question　in　Welsh。

〃Two　miles；〃　said　she。

〃Still　two　miles　to　Holyhead　by　the　road；〃　thought　I。　　〃Nos　da；〃　
said　I　to　the　woman　and　sped　along。　　At　length　I　saw　water　on　my　
right；　seemingly　a　kind　of　bay；　and　presently　a　melancholy　ship。　　I　
doubled　my　pace；　which　was　before　tolerably　quick；　and　soon　saw　a　
noble…looking　edifice　on　my　left；　brilliantly　lighted　up。　　〃What　a　
capital　inn　that　would　make；〃　said　I；　looking　at　it　wistfully；　as　I　
passed　it。　　Presently　I　found　myself　in　the　midst　of　a　poor；　dull；　
ill…lighted　town。

〃Where　is　the　inn？〃　said　I　to　a　man。

〃The　inn；　sir；　you　have　passed　it。　　The　inn　is　yonder；〃　he　
continued；　pointing　towards　the　noble…looking　edifice。

〃What；　is　that　the　inn？〃　said　I。

〃Yes；　sir；　the　railroad　hotel　…　and　a　first…rate　hotel　it　is。〃

〃And　are　there　no　other　inns？〃

〃Yes；　but　they　are　all　poor　places。　　No　gent　puts　up　at　them　…　all　
the　gents　by　the　railroad　put　up　at　the　railroad　hotel。〃

What　was　I　to　do？　after　turning　up　my　nose　at　the　railroad；　was　I　
to　put　up　at　its　hotel？　　Surely　to　do　so　would　be　hardly　acting　
with　consistency。　　〃Ought　I　not　rather　to　go　to　some　public…house；　
frequented　by　captains　of　fishing　smacks；　and　be　put　in　a　bed　a　
foot　too　short　for　me；〃　said　I；　as　I　reflected　on　my　last　night's　
couch　at　Mr　Pritchard's。　　〃No；　that　won't　do　…　I　shall　go　to　the　
hotel；　I　have　money　in　my　pocket；　and　a　person　with　money　in　his　
pocket　has　surely　a　right　to　be　inconsistent　if　he　pleases。〃

So　I　turned　back　and　entered　the　railroad　hotel　with　lofty　port　and　
with　sounding　step；　for　I　had　twelve　sovereigns　in　my　pocket；　
besides　a　half　one；　and　some　loose　silver；　and　feared　not　to　
encounter　the　gaze　of　any　waiter　or　landlord　in　the　land。　　〃Send　
boots！〃　I　roared　to　the　waiter；　as　I　flung　myself　down　in　an　arm…
chair　in　a　magnificent　coffee…room。　　〃What　the　deuce　are　you　
staring　at？　send　boots　can't　you；　and　ask　what　I　can　have　for　
dinner。〃

〃Yes；　sir；〃　said　the　waiter；　and　with　a　low　bow　departed。

〃These　boots　are　rather　dusty；〃　said　the　boots；　a　grey…haired；　
venerable…looking　man；　after　he　had　taken　off　my　thick；　solid；　
square…toed　boots。　　〃I　suppose　you　came　walking　from　the　railroad？〃

〃Confound　the　railroad！〃　said　I。　　〃I　came　walking　from　Bangor。　　I　
would　have　you　know　that　I　have　money　in　my　pocket；　and　can　afford　
to　walk。　　I　am　fond　of　the　beauties　of　nature；　now　it　is　impossible　
to　see　much　of　the　beauties　of　nature　unless　you　walk。　　I　am　
likewise　fond　of　poetry；　and　take　especial　delight　in　inspecting　
the　birth…places　and　haunts　of　poets。　　It　is　because　I　am　fond　of　
poetry；　poets　and　their　haunts；　that　I　am　come　to　Anglesey。　　
Anglesey　does　not　abound　in　the　beauties　of　nature；　but　there　never　
was　such　a　place　for　poets；　you　meet　a　poet；　or　the　birth…place　of　
a　poet；　everywhere。〃

〃Did　your　honour　ever　hear　of　Gronwy　Owen？〃　said　the　old　man。

〃I　have；〃　I　replied；　〃and　yesterday　I　visited　his　birth…place；　so　
you　have　heard　of　Gronwy　Owen？〃

〃Heard　of　him；　your　honour；　yes；　and　read　his　works。　　That　'Cowydd　
y　Farn'　of　his　is　a　wonderful　poem。〃

〃You　say　right；〃　said　I；　〃the　'Cowydd　of　Judgment'　contains　some　of　
the　finest　things　ever　written　…　that　description　of　the　toppling　
down　of　the　top　crag　of　Snowdon；　at　the　day　of　Judgment；　beats　
anything　in　Homer。〃

〃Then　there　was　Lewis　Morris；　your　honour；〃　said　the　old　man；　〃who　
gave　Gronwy　his　education　and　wrote　'The　Lasses　of　Meirion'　…　and　…　
〃

〃And　'The　Cowydd　to　the　Snail；'〃　said　I；　interrupting　him　…　〃a　
wonderful　man　he　was。〃

〃I　am　rejoiced　to　see　your　honour　in　our　house；〃　said　boots；　〃I　
never　saw　an　English　gentleman　before　who　knew　so　much　about　Welsh　
poetry；　nor　a　Welsh　one　either。　　Ah；　if　your　honour　is　fond　of　
poets　and　their　places　you　did　right　to　come　to　Anglesey　…　and　your　
honour　was　right　in　saying　that　you　can't　stir　a　step　without　
meeting　one；　you　have　an　example　of　the　truth　of　that　in　me　…　for　
to　tell　your　honour　the　truth；　I　am　a　poet　myself；　and　no　bad　one　
either。〃

Then　tucking　the　dusty　boots　under　his　arm；　the　old　man　with　a　low　
congee；　and　a　〃Good…night；　your　honour！〃　shuffled　out　of　the　room。



CHAPTER　XL



Caer　Gyby　…　Lewis　Morris　…　Noble　Character。


I　DINED　or　rather　supped　well　at　the　Railroad　Inn　…　I　beg　its　
pardon；　Hotel；　for　the　word　Inn　at　the　present　day　is　decidedly　
vulgar。　　I　likewise　slept　well；　how　could　I　do　otherwise；　passing　
the　night；　as　I　did；　in　an　excellent　bed　in　a　large；　cool；　quiet　
room？　　I　arose　rather　late；　went　down　to　the　coffee…room　and　took　
my　breakfast　leisurely；　after　which　I　paid　my　bill　and　strolled　
forth　to　observe　the　wonders　of　the　place。

Caer　Gybi　or　Cybi's　town　is　situated　on　the　southern　side　of　a　bay　
on　the　north…western　side　of　Anglesey。　　Close　to　it　on　the　south…
west　is　a　very　high　headland　called　in　Welsh　Pen　C