wild wales-第54章

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〃Are　there　fish　in　it？〃

〃Digon；　sir；　digon　iawn；　and　some　very　large。　　I　once　saw　a　Pen…
hwyad　from　that　lake　which　weighed　fifty　pounds。〃

After　a　little　farther　conversation　I　got　up；　and　thanking　the　kind　
woman　departed。　　I　soon　left　the　moors　behind　me　and　continued　
walking　till　I　came　to　a　few　houses　on　the　margin　of　a　meadow　or　
fen　in　a　valley　through　which　the　way　trended　to　the　east。　　They　
were　almost　overshadowed　by　an　enormous　mountain　which　rose　beyond　
the　fen　on　the　south。　　Seeing　a　house　which　bore　a　sign；　and　at　the　
door　of　which　a　horse　stood　tied；　I　went　in；　and　a　woman　coming　to　
meet　me　in　a　kind　of　passage；　I　asked　her　if　I　could　have　some　ale。

〃Of　the　best；　sir；〃　she　replied；　and　conducted　me　down　the　passage　
into　a　neat　room；　partly　kitchen；　partly　parlour；　the　window　of　
which　looked　out　upon　the　fen。　　A　rustic…looking　man　sat　smoking　at　
a　table　with　a　jug　of　ale　before　him。　　I　sat　down　near　him；　and　the　
good　woman　brought　me　a　similar　jug　of　ale；　which　on　tasting　I　
found　excellent。　　My　spirits　which　had　been　for　some　time　very　
flagging　presently　revived；　and　I　entered　into　conversation　with　my　
companion　at　the　table。　　From　him　I　learned　that　he　was　a　farmer　of　
the　neighbourhood；　that　the　horse　tied　before　the　door　belonged　to　
him；　that　the　present　times　were　very　bad　for　the　producers　of　
grain；　with　very　slight　likelihood　of　improvement；　that　the　place　
at　which　we　were　was　called　Rhyd　y　fen；　or　the　ford　across　the　fen；　
that　it　was　just　half　way　between　Festiniog　and　Bala；　that　the　
clergyman　of　the　parish　was　called　Mr　Pughe；　a　good　kind　of　man；　
but　very　purblind　in　a　spiritual　sense；　and　finally　that　there　was　
no　safe　religion　in　the　world；　save　that　of　the　Calvinistic…
Methodists；　to　which　my　companion　belonged。

Having　finished　my　ale　I　paid　for　it；　and　leaving　the　Calvinistic　
farmer　still　smoking；　I　departed　from　Rhyd　y　fen。　　On　I　went　along　
the　valley；　the　enormous　hill　on　my　right；　a　moel　of　about　half　its　
height　on　my　left；　and　a　tall　hill　bounding　the　prospect　in　the　
east；　the　direction　in　which　I　was　going。　　After　a　little　time；　
meeting　two　women；　I　asked　them　the　name　of　the　mountain　to　the　
south。

〃Arenig　Vawr；〃　they　replied；　or　something　like　it。

Presently　meeting　four　men　I　put　the　same　question　to　the　foremost；　
a　stout；　burly；　intelligent…looking　fellow；　of　about　fifty。　　He　
gave　me　the　same　name　as　the　women。　　I　asked　if　anybody　lived　upon　
it。

〃No；〃　said　he；　〃too　cold　for　man。〃

〃Fox？〃　said　I。

〃No！　too　cold　for　fox。〃

〃Crow？〃　said　I。

〃No；　too　cold　for　crow；　crow　would　be　starved　upon　it。〃　　He　then　
looked　me　in　the　face；　expecting　probably　that　I　should　smile。

I；　however；　looked　at　him　with　all　the　gravity　of　a　judge；　
whereupon　he　also　observed　the　gravity　of　a　judge；　and　we　continued　
looking　at　each　other　with　all　the　gravity　of　judges　till　we　both　
simultaneously　turned　away；　he　followed　by　his　companions　going　his　
path；　and　I　going　mine。

I　subsequently　remembered　that　Arenig　is　mentioned　in　a　Welsh　poem；　
though　in　anything　but　a　flattering　and　advantageous　manner。　　The　
writer　calls　it　Arenig　ddiffaith　or　barren　Arenig；　and　says　that　it　
intercepts　from　him　the　view　of　his　native　land。　　Arenig　is　
certainly　barren　enough；　for　there　is　neither　tree　nor　shrub　upon　
it；　but　there　is　something　majestic　in　its　huge　bulk。　　Of　all　the　
hills　which　I　saw　in　Wales　none　made　a　greater　impression　upon　me。

Towards　evening　I　arrived　at　a　very　small　and　pretty　village　in　the　
middle　of　which　was　a　tollgate。　　Seeing　an　old　woman　seated　at　the　
door　of　the　gate…house　I　asked　her　the　name　of　the　village。　　〃I　
have　no　Saesneg！〃　she　screamed　out。

〃I　have　plenty　of　Cumraeg；〃　said　I；　and　repeated　my　question。　　
Whereupon　she　told　me　that　it　was　called　Tref　y　Talcot　…　the　
village　of　the　tollgate。　　That　it　was　a　very　nice　village；　and　that　
she　was　born　there。　　She　then　pointed　to　two　young　women　who　were　
walking　towards　the　gate　at　a　very　slow　pace　and　told　me　they　were　
English。　　〃I　do　not　know　them；〃　said　I。　　The　old　lady；　who　was　
somewhat　deaf；　thinking　that　I　said　I　did　not　know　English；　leered　
at　me　complacently；　and　said　that　in　that　case；　I　was　like　herself；　
for　she　did　not　speak　a　word　of　English；　adding　that　a　body　should　
not　be　considered　a　fool　for　not　speaking　English。　　She　then　said　
that　the　young　women　had　been　taking　a　walk　together；　and　that　they　
were　much　in　each　other's　company　for　the　sake　of　conversation；　and　
no　wonder；　as　the　poor　simpletons　could　not　speak　a　word　of　Welsh。　　
I　thought　of　the　beam　and　mote　mentioned　in　Scripture；　and　then　
cast　a　glance　of　compassion　on　the　two　poor　young　women。　　For　a　
moment　I　fancied　myself　in　the　times　of　Owen　Glendower；　and　that　I　
saw　two　females；　whom　his　marauders　had　carried　off　from　Cheshire　
or　Shropshire　to　toil　and　slave　in　the　Welshery；　walking　together　
after　the　labours　of　the　day　were　done；　and　bemoaning　their　
misfortunes　in　their　own　homely　English。

Shortly　after　leaving　the　village　of　the　tollgate　I　came　to　a　
beautiful　valley。　　On　my　right　hand　was　a　river　the　farther　bank　of　
which　was　fringed　with　trees；　on　my　left　was　a　gentle　ascent；　the　
lower　part　of　which　was　covered　with　rich　grass；　and　the　upper　with　
yellow　luxuriant　corn；　a　little　farther　on　was　a　green　grove；　
behind　which　rose　up　a　moel。　　A　more　bewitching　scene　I　never　
beheld。　　Ceres　and　Pan　seemed　in　this　place　to　have　met　to　hold　
their　bridal。　　The　sun　now　descending　shone　nobly　upon　the　whole。　　
After　staying　for　some　time　to　gaze；　I　proceeded；　and　soon　met　
several　carts；　from　the　driver　of　one　of　which　I　learned　that　I　was　
yet　three　miles　from　Bala。　　I　continued　my　way　and　came　to　a　
bridge；　a　little　way　beyond　which　I　overtook　two　men；　one　of　whom；　
an　old　fellow；　held　a　very　long　whip　in　his　hand；　and　the　other；　a　
much　younger　man　with　a　cap　on　his　head；　led　a　horse。　　When　I　came　
up　the　old　fellow　took　off　his　hat　to　me；　and　I　forthwith　entered　
into　conversation　with　him。　　I　soon　gathered　from　him　that　he　was　a　
horsedealer　from　Bala；　and　that　he　had　been　out　on　the　road　with　
his　servant　to　break　a　horse。　　I　astonished　the　old　man　with　my　
knowledge　of　Welsh　and　horses；　and　learned　from　him　…　for　
conceiving　I　was　one　of　the　right　sort；　he　was　very　communicative　…　
two　or　three　curious　particulars　connected　with　the　Welsh　mode　of　
breaking　horses。　　Discourse　shortened　the　way　to　both　of　us；　and　we　
were　soon　in　Bala。　　In　the　middle　of　the　town　he　pointed　to　a　large　
old…fashioned　house　on　the　right　hand；　at　the　bottom　of　a　little　
square；　and　said；　〃Your　honour　was　just　asking　me　about　an　inn。　　
That　is　the　best　inn　in　Wales；　and　if　your　honour　is　as　good　a　
judge　of　an　inn　as　of　a　horse；　I　think　you　will　say　so　when　you　
leave　it。　　Prydnawn　da　'chwi！〃



CHAPTER　XLIX



Tom　Jenkins　…　Ale　of　Bala　…　Sober　Moments　…　Local　Prejudices　…　The　
States　…　Unprejudiced　Man　…　Welsh　Pensilvanian　Settlers　…　Drapery　
Line　…　Evening　Saunter。


SCARCELY　had　I　entered　the　door　of　the　inn　when　a　man　presented　
himself　to　me　with　a　low　bow。　　He　was　about　fifty　years　of　age；　
somewhat　above　the　middle　size；　and　had　grizzly　hair　and　a　dark；　
freckled　countenance；　in　which　methought　I　saw　a　considerable　dash　
of　humour。　　He　wore　brown　clothes；　had　no　hat　on　his　head；　and　held　
a　napkin　in　his　hand。　　〃Are　you　the　master　of　this　hotel？〃　said　I。

〃No；　your　honour；〃　he　replied；　〃I　am　only　the　waiter；　but　I　
officiate　for　my　master　in　all　things；　my　master　has　great　
confidence　in　me；　sir。〃

〃And　I　have　no　doubt；〃　said　I；　〃that　he　could　not　place　his　
confidence　in　any　one　more　worthy。〃

With　a　bow　yet　lower　than　the　preceding　one　the　waiter　replied　with　
a　smirk　and　a　grimace；　〃Thanks；　your　honour；　for　your　good　opinion。　　
I　assure　your　honour　that　I　am　deeply　obliged。〃

His　air；　manner；　and　even　accent；　were　so　like　those　of　a　
Frenchman；　that　I　could　not　forbear　asking　him　whether　he　was　one。

He　shook　his　head　and　replied；　〃No；　your　honour；　no；　I　am　not　a　
Frenchman；　but　a　native　of　this　poor　country；　Tom　Jenkins　by　name。〃

〃Well；〃　said　I；　〃you　really　look　and　speak　like　a　Frenchman；　but　no　
wonder；　the　Welsh　and　French　are　much　of　the　same　blood。　　Please　
now　to　show　me　into　the　parlour。〃

He　opened　the　door　of　a　large　apartment；　placed　a　chair　by　a　table　
which　stood　in　the　middle；　and　then；　with　another　bow；　requested　to　
know　my　farther　pleasure。　　After　ordering　dinner　I　said　that　as　I　
was　thirsty　I　should　like　to　have　some　ale　forthwith。

〃Ale　you　shall　have；　your　honour；〃　said　Tom；　〃and　some　of　the　best　
ale　that　can　be　drunk。　　This　house　is　famous　for　ale。〃

〃I　suppose　you　get　your　ale　from　Llangollen；〃　said　I；　〃which　is　
celebrated　for　its　ale　over　Wales。〃

〃Get　our　ale　from　Llangollen？〃　said　Tom；　with　sneer　of　contempt；　
〃no；　nor　anything　else。　　As　for　the　ale　it　was　brewed　in　this　house　
by　your　honour's　humble　servant。〃

〃Oh；〃　said　I；　〃if　you　brewed　it；　it　must　of　course　be　good。　　Pray　
bring　me　some　immediately；　for　I　am　anxious　to　drink　ale　of　your　
brewing。〃

〃Your　honour　shall　be　obeyed；〃　said　Tom；　and　disappearing　returned　
in　a　twinkling　with　a　tray　on　which　stood　a　jug　filled　with　liquor　
and　a　glass。　　He　forthwith　filled　the　glass；　and　pointing　to　its　
contents　said：

〃There；　your　honour；　did　you　ever　see　such　ale？　　Observe　its　
colour！　　Does　it　not　look　for　all　the　world　as　pale　and　delicate　as　
cowslip　wine？〃

〃I　wish　it　may　not　taste　like　cowslip　wine；〃　said　I；　〃to　tell　you　
the　truth；　I　am　no　particular　admirer　of　ale　that　looks　pale　and　
delicate；　for　I　always　think　there　is　no　strength　in　it。〃

〃Taste　it；　your　honour；〃　said　Tom；　〃and　tell　me　if　you　ever　tasted　
such　ale。〃

I　tasted　it；　and　then　took　a　copious　draught。　　The　ale　was　indeed　
admirable；　equal　to　the　best　that　I　had　ever　before　drunk　…　rich　
and　mellow；　with　scarcely　any　smack　of　the　hop　in　it；　and　though　so　
pale　and　delicate　to　the　eye　nearly　as　strong　as　brandy。　　I　
commended　it　highly　to　the　worthy　Jenkins；　who　exultingly　
exclaimed：

〃That　Llangollen　ale　indeed！　no；　no！　ale　like　that；　your　honour；　
was　never　brewed　in　that　trumpery　hole　Llangollen。〃

〃You　seem　to　have　a　very　low　opinion　of　Llangollen？〃　said　I。

〃How　can　I　have　anything　but　a　low　opinion　of　it；　your　honour？　　A　
trumpery　hole　it　is；　and　ever　will　remain　so。〃

〃Many　people　of　the　first　quality　go　to　visit　it；〃　said　I。

〃That　is　because　it　lies　so　handy　for　England；　your　honour。　　If　it　
did　not；　nobody　would　go　to　see　it。　　What　is　there　to　see　in　
Llangollen？〃

〃There　is　not　much　to　see　in　the　town；　I　admit；〃　said　I；　〃but　the　
scenery　about　it　is　beautiful：　　what　mountains！〃

〃Mountains；　your　honour；　mountains！　well；　we　have　mountains　too；　
and　as　beautiful　as　those　of　Llangollen。　　Then　we　have　our　lake；　
our　Llyn　Tegid；　the　lake　of　beauty。　　Show　me　anything　like　that　
near　Llangollen？〃

〃Then；〃　said　I；　〃there　is　your　mound；　your　Tomen　Bala。　　The　
Llangollen　people　can　show　nothing　like　that。〃

Tom　Jenkins　looked　at　me　for　a　moment　with　some　surprise；　and　then　
said：　　〃I　see　you　have　been　here　before；　sir。〃

〃No；〃　said　I；　〃never；　but　I　have　read　about　the　Tome