wild wales-第6章

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disappointed　and　vexed；　to　my　inn。

Early　the　next　morning　I　departed　from　Chester　for　Llangollen；　
distant　about　twenty　miles；　I　passed　over　the　noble　bridge　and　
proceeded　along　a　broad　and　excellent　road；　leading　in　a　direction　
almost　due　south　through　pleasant　meadows。　　I　felt　very　happy　…　and　
no　wonder；　the　morning　was　beautiful；　the　birds　sang　merrily；　and　a　
sweet　smell　proceeded　from　the　new…cut　hay　in　the　fields；　and　I　was　
bound　for　Wales。　　I　passed　over　the　river　Allan　and　through　two　
villages　called；　as　I　was　told；　Pulford　and　Marford；　and　ascended　a　
hill；　from　the　top　of　this　hill　the　view　is　very　fine。　　To　the　east　
are　the　high　lands　of　Cheshire；　to　the　west　the　bold　hills　of　
Wales；　and　below；　on　all　sides　a　fair　variety　of　wood　and　water；　
green　meads　and　arable　fields。

〃You　may　well　look　around；　Measter；〃　said　a　waggoner；　who；　coming　
from　the　direction　in　which　I　was　bound；　stopped　to　breathe　his　
team　on　the　top　of　the　hill；　〃you　may　well　look　around　…　there　
isn't　such　a　place　to　see　the　country　from；　far　and　near；　as　where　
we　stand。　　Many　come　to　this　place　to　look　about　them。〃

I　looked　at　the　man；　and　thought　I　had　never　seen　a　more　powerful…
looking　fellow；　he　was　about　six　feet　two　inches　high；　immensely　
broad　in　the　shoulders；　and　could　hardly　have　weighed　less　than　
sixteen　stone。　　I　gave　him　the　seal　of　the　morning；　and　asked　
whether　he　was　Welsh　or　English。

〃English；　Measter；　English；　born　t'other　side　of　Beeston；　pure　
Cheshire；　Measter。〃

〃I　suppose；〃　said　I；　〃there　are　few　Welshmen　such　big　fellows　as　
yourself。〃

〃No；　Measter；〃　said　the　fellow；　with　a　grin；　〃there　are　few　
Welshmen　so　big　as　I；　or　yourself　either；　they　are　small　men　
mostly；　Measter；　them　Welshers；　very　small　men　…　and　yet　the　
fellows　can　use　their　hands。　　I　am　a　bit　of　a　fighter；　Measter；　at　
least　I　was　before　my　wife　made　me　join　the　Methodist　connection；　
and　I　once　fit　with　a　Welshman　at　Wrexham；　he　came　from　the　hills；　
and　was　a　real　Welshman；　and　shorter　than　myself　by　a　whole　head　
and　shoulder；　but　he　stood　up　against　me；　and　gave　me　more　than　
play　for　my　money；　till　I　gripped　him；　flung　him　down　and　myself　
upon　him；　and　then　of　course　t'was　all　over　with　him。〃

〃You　are　a　noble　fellow；〃　said　I；　〃and　a　credit　to　Cheshire。　　Will　
you　have　sixpence　to　drink？〃

〃Thank　you；　Measter；　I　shall　stop　at　Pulford；　and　shall　be　glad　to　
drink　your　health　in　a　jug　of　ale。〃

I　gave　him　sixpence；　and　descended　the　hill　on　one　side；　while　he；　
with　his　team；　descended　it　on　the　other。

〃A　genuine　Saxon；〃　said　I；　〃I　daresay　just　like　many　of　those　who；　
under　Hengist；　subdued　the　plains　of　Lloegr　and　Britain。　　Taliesin　
called　the　Saxon　race　the　Coiling　Serpent。　　He　had　better　have　
called　it　the　Big　Bull。　　He　was　a　noble　poet；　however：　　what　
wonderful　lines；　upon　the　whole；　are　those　in　his　prophecy；　in　
which　he　speaks　of　the　Saxons　and　Britons；　and　of　the　result　of　
their　struggle　…


〃A　serpent　which　coils；
And　with　fury　boils；
From　Germany　coming　with　arm'd　wings　spread；
Shall　subdue　and　shall　enthrall
The　broad　Britain　all；
From　the　Lochlin　ocean　to　Severn's　bed。

〃And　British　men
Shall　be　captives　then
To　strangers　from　Saxonia's　strand；
They　shall　praise　their　God；　and　hold
Their　language　as　of　old；
But　except　wild　Wales　they　shall　lose　their　land。〃


I　arrived　at　Wrexham；　and　having　taken　a　very　hearty　breakfast　at　
the　principal　inn；　for　I　felt　rather　hungry　after　a　morning's　walk　
of　ten　miles；　I　walked　about　the　town。　　The　town　is　reckoned　a　
Welsh　town；　but　its　appearance　is　not　Welsh　…　its　inhabitants　have　
neither　the　look　nor　language　of　Welshmen；　and　its　name　shows　that　
it　was　founded　by　some　Saxon　adventurer；　Wrexham　being　a　Saxon　
compound；　signifying　the　home　or　habitation　of　Rex　or　Rag；　and　
identical；　or　nearly　so；　with　the　Wroxham　of　East　Anglia。　　It　is　a　
stirring　bustling　place；　of　much　traffic；　and　of　several　thousand　
inhabitants。　　Its　most　remarkable　object　is　its　church；　which　
stands　at　the　south…western　side。　　To　this　church；　after　wandering　
for　some　time　about　the　streets；　I　repaired。　　The　tower　is　
quadrangular；　and　is　at　least　one　hundred　feet　high；　it　has　on　its　
summit　four　little　turrets；　one　at　each　corner；　between　each　of　
which　are　three　spirelets；　the　middlemost　of　the　three　the　highest。　　
The　nave　of　the　church　is　to　the　east；　it　is　of　two　stories；　both　
crenulated　at　the　top。　　I　wished　to　see　the　interior　of　the　church；　
but　found　the　gate　locked。　　Observing　a　group　of　idlers　close　at　
hand　with　their　backs　against　a　wall；　I　went　up　to　them；　and；　
addressing　myself　to　one；　inquired　whether　I　could　see　the　church。　　
〃Oh　yes；　sir；〃　said　the　man；　〃the　clerk　who　has　the　key　lives　close　
at　hand；　one　of　us　shall　go　and　fetch　him　…　by…the…bye；　I　may　as　
well　go　myself。〃　　He　moved　slowly　away。　　He　was　a　large　bulky　man　
of　about　the　middle　age；　and　his　companions　were　about　the　same　age　
and　size　as　himself。　　I　asked　them　if　they　were　Welsh。　　〃Yes；　sir；〃　
said　one；　〃I　suppose　we　are；　for　they　call　us　Welsh。〃　　I　asked　if　
any　of　them　could　speak　Welsh。　　〃No；　sir；〃　said　the　man；　〃all　the　
Welsh　that　any　of　us　know；　or　indeed　wish　to　know；　is　'Cwrw　da。'〃　　
Here　there　was　a　general　laugh。　　Cwrw　da　signifies　good　ale。　　I　at　
first　thought　that　the　words　might　be　intended　as　a　hint　for　a　
treat；　but　was　soon　convinced　of　the　contrary。　　There　was　no　greedy　
expectation　in　his　eyes；　nor；　indeed；　in　those　of　his　companions；　
though　they　all　looked　as　if　they　were　fond　of　good　ale。　　I　
inquired　whether　much　Welsh　was　spoken　in　the　town；　and　was　told　
very　little。　　When　the　man　returned　with　the　clerk　I　thanked　him。　　
He　told　me　I　was　welcome；　and　then　went　and　leaned　with　his　back　
against　the　wall。　　He　and　his　mates　were　probably　a　set　of　boon　
companions　enjoying　the　air　after　a　night's　bout　at　drinking。　　I　
was　subsequently　told　that　all　the　people　of　Wrexham　are　fond　of　
good　ale。　　The　clerk　unlocked　the　church　door；　and　conducted　me　in。　　
The　interior　was　modern；　but　in　no　respects　remarkable。　　The　clerk　
informed　me　that　there　was　a　Welsh　service　every　Sunday　afternoon　
in　the　church；　but　that　few　people　attended；　and　those　few　were　
almost　entirely　from　the　country。　　He　said　that　neither　he　nor　the　
clergyman　were　natives　of　Wrexham。　　He　showed　me　the　Welsh　Church　
Bible；　and　at　my　request　read　a　few　verses　from　the　sacred　volume。　　
He　seemed　a　highly　intelligent　man。　　I　gave　him　something；　which　
appeared　to　be　more　than　he　expected；　and　departed；　after　inquiring　
of　him　the　road　to　Llangollen。

I　crossed　a　bridge；　for　there　is　a　bridge　and　a　stream　too　at　
Wrexham。　　The　road　at　first　bore　due　west；　but　speedily　took　a　
southerly　direction。　　I　moved　rapidly　over　an　undulating　country；　a　
region　of　hills；　or　rather　of　mountains　lay　on　my　right　hand。　　At　
the　entrance　of　a　small　village　a　poor；　sickly…looking　woman　asked　
me　for　charity。

〃Are　you　Welsh　or　English？〃　said　I。

〃Welsh；〃　she　replied；　〃but　I　speak　both　languages；　as　do　all　the　
people　here。〃

I　gave　her　a　halfpenny；　she　wished　me　luck；　and　I　proceeded。　　I　
passed　some　huge　black　buildings　which　a　man　told　me　were　
collieries；　and　several　carts　laden　with　coal；　and　soon　came　to　
Rhiwabon　…　a　large　village　about　half　way　between　Wrexham　and　
Llangollen。　　I　observed　in　this　place　nothing　remarkable；　but　an　
ancient　church。　　My　way　from　hence　lay　nearly　west。　　I　ascended　a　
hill；　from　the　top　of　which　I　looked　down　into　a　smoky　valley。　　I　
descended；　passing　by　a　great　many　collieries；　in　which　I　observed　
grimy　men　working　amidst　smoke　and　flame。　　At　the　bottom　of　the　
hill　near　a　bridge　I　turned　round。　　A　ridge　to　the　east　
particularly　struck　my　attention；　it　was　covered　with　dusky　
edifices；　from　which　proceeded　thundering　sounds；　and　puffs　of　
smoke。　　A　woman　passed　me　going　towards　Rhiwabon；　I　pointed　to　the　
ridge　and　asked　its　name；　I　spoke　English。　　The　woman　shook　her　
head　and　replied　〃Dim　Saesneg。〃

〃This　is　as　it　should　be；〃　said　I　to　myself；　〃I　now　feel　I　am　in　
Wales。〃　　I　repeated　the　question　in　Welsh。

〃Cefn　Bach；〃　she　replied　…　which　signifies　the　little　ridge。

〃Diolch　iti；〃　I　replied；　and　proceeded　on　my　way。

I　was　now　in　a　wild　valley　…　enormous　hills　were　on　my　right。　　The　
road　was　good；　and　above　it；　in　the　side　of　a　steep　bank；　was　a　
causeway　intended　for　foot　passengers。　　It　was　overhung　with　hazel　
bushes。　　I　walked　along　it　to　its　termination　which　was　at　
Llangollen。　　I　found　my　wife　and　daughter　at　the　principal　inn。　　
They　had　already　taken　a　house。　　We　dined　together　at　the　inn；　
during　the　dinner　we　had　music；　for　a　Welsh　harper　stationed　in　the　
passage　played　upon　his　instrument　〃Codiad　yr　ehedydd。〃　　〃Of　a　
surety；〃　said　I；　〃I　am　in　Wales！〃



CHAPTER　VI



Llangollen　…　Wyn　Ab　Nudd　…　The　Dee　…　Dinas　Bran。


THE　northern　side　of　the　vale　of　Llangollen　is　formed　by　certain　
enormous　rocks　called　the　Eglwysig　rocks；　which　extend　from　east　to　
west；　a　distance　of　about　two　miles。　　The　southern　side　is　formed　
by　the　Berwyn　hills。　　The　valley　is　intersected　by　the　River　Dee；　
the　origin　of　which　is　a　deep　lake　near　Bala；　about　twenty　miles　to　
the　west。　　Between　the　Dee　and　the　Eglwysig　rises　a　lofty　hill；　on　
the　top　of　which　are　the　ruins　of　Dinas　Bran；　which　bear　no　slight　
resemblance　to　a　crown。　　The　upper　part　of　the　hill　is　bare　with　
the　exception　of　what　is　covered　by　the　ruins；　on　the　lower　part　
there　are　inclosures　and　trees；　with；　here　and　there；　a　grove　or　
farm…house。　　On　the　other　side　of　the　valley；　to　the　east　of　
Llangollen；　is　a　hill　called　Pen　y　Coed；　beautifully　covered　with　
trees　of　various　kinds；　it　stands　between　the　river　and　the　Berwyn；　
even　as　the　hill　of　Dinas　Bran　stands　between　the　river　and　the　
Eglwysig　rocks　…　it　does　not；　however；　confront　Dinas　Bran；　which　
stands　more　to　the　west。

Llangollen　is　a　small　town　or　large　village　of　white　houses　with　
slate　roofs；　it　contains　about　two　thousand　inhabitants；　and　is　
situated　principally　on　the　southern　side　of　the　Dee。　　At　its　
western　end　it　has　an　ancient　bridge　and　a　modest　unpretending　
church　nearly　in　its　centre；　in　the　chancel　of　which　rest　the　
mortal　remains　of　an　old　bard　called　Gryffydd　Hiraethog。　　From　some　
of　the　houses　on　the　southern　side　there　is　a　noble　view　…　Dinas　
Bran　and　its　mighty　hill　forming　the　principal　objects。　　The　view　
from　the　northern　part　of　the　town；　which　is　indeed　little　more　
than　a　suburb；　is　not　quite　so　grand；　but　is　nevertheless　highly　
interesting。　　The　eastern　entrance　of　the　vale　of　Llangollen　is　
much　wider　than　the　western；　which　is　overhung　by　bulky　hills。　　
There　are　many　pleasant　villas　on　both　sides　of　the　river；　some　of　
which　stand　a　considerable　way　up　the　hill；　of　the　villas　the　most　
noted　is　Plas　Newydd　at　the　foot　of　the　Berwyn；　built　by　two　Irish　
ladies　of　high　rank；　who　resided　in　it　for　nearly　half　a　century；　
and　were　celebrated　throughout　Europe　by　the　name　of　the　Ladies　of　
Llangollen。

The　view　of　the　hill　of　Dinas　Bran；　from　the　southern　side　of　
Llangollen；　would　be　much　more　complete　were　it　not　for　a　bulky　
excrescence；　towards　its　base；　which　prevent