wild wales-第60章

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y　Meibion。〃

〃The　river；〃　said　I；　〃which　Huw　Morris　loved　so　well；　whose　praises　
he　has　sung；　and　which　he　has　introduced　along　with　Cefn　Uchaf　in　a　
stanza　in　which　he　describes　the　hospitality　of　Chirk　Castle　in　his　
day；　and　which　runs　thus：


〃Pe　byddai　'r　Cefn　Ucha；
Yn　gig　ac　yn　fara；
A　Cheiriog　fawr　yma'n　fir　aml　bob　tro；
Rhy　ryfedd　fae　iddyn'
Barhau　hanner　blwyddyn；
I　wyr　bob　yn　gan…nyn　ar　ginio。〃


〃A　good　penill　that；　sir；〃　said　John　Jones。　　〃Pity　that　the　halls　
of　great　people　no　longer　flow　with　rivers　of　beer；　nor　have　
mountains　of　bread　and　beef　for　all　comers。〃

〃No　pity　at　all；〃　said　I；　〃things　are　better　as　they　are。　　Those　
mountains　of　bread　and　beef；　and　those　rivers　of　ale　merely　
encouraged　vassalage；　fawning　and　idleness；　better　to　pay　for　one's　
dinner　proudly　and　independently　at　one's　inn；　than　to　go　and　
cringe　for　it　at　a　great　man's　table。〃

We　crossed　the　bridge；　walked　a　little　way　up　the　hill　which　was　
beautifully　wooded；　and　then　retraced　our　steps　to　the　little　inn；　
where　I　found　my　wife　and　daughter　waiting　for　us；　and　very　hungry。　　
We　sat　down；　John　Jones　with　us；　and　proceeded　to　despatch　our　
bread…and…butter　and　ale。　　The　bread…and…butter　were　good　enough；　
but　the　ale　poorish。　　Oh；　for　an　Act　of　Parliament　to　force　people　
to　brew　good　ale！　　After　finishing　our　humble　meal；　we　got　up　and　
having　paid　our　reckoning　went　back　into　the　park；　the　gate　of　
which　the　landlord　again　unlocked　for　us。

We　strolled　towards　the　north　along　the　base　of　the　hill。　　The　
imagination　of　man　can　scarcely　conceive　a　scene　more　beautiful　
than　the　one　which　we　were　now　enjoying。　　Huge　oaks　studded　the　
lower　side　of　the　hill；　towards　the　top　was　a　belt　of　forest；　above　
which　rose　the　eastern　walls　of　the　castle；　the　whole　forest；　
castle　and　the　green　bosom　of　the　hill　glorified　by　the　lustre　of　
the　sun。　　As　we　proceeded　we　again　roused　the　deer；　and　again　saw　
three　old　black　fellows；　evidently　the　patriarchs　of　the　herds；　
with　their　white　enormous　horns；　with　these　ancient　gentlefolks　I　
very　much　wished　to　make　acquaintance；　and　tried　to　get　near　them；　
but　no！　they　would　suffer　no　such　thing；　off　they　glided；　their　
white　antlers；　like　the　barked　top　boughs　of　old　pollards；　glancing　
in　the　sunshine；　the　smaller　dapple　creatures　following　them　
bounding　and　frisking。　　We　had　again　got　very　near　the　castle；　when　
John　Jones　told　me　that　if　we　would　follow　him　he　would　show　us　
something　very　remarkable；　I　asked　him　what　it　was。

〃Llun　Cawr；〃　he　replied。　　〃The　figure　of　a　giant。〃

〃What　giant？〃　said　I。

But　on　this　point　he　could　give　me　no　information。　　I　told　my　wife　
and　daughter　what　he　had　said；　and　finding　that　they　wished　to　see　
the　figure；　I　bade　John　Jones　lead　us　to　it。　　He　led　us　down　an　
avenue　just　below　the　eastern　side　of　the　castle；　noble　oaks　and　
other　trees　composed　it；　some　of　them　probably　near　a　hundred　feet　
high；　John　Jones　observing　me　looking　at　them　with　admiration；　
said：

〃They　would　make　fine　chests　for　the　dead；　sir。〃

What　an　observation！　how　calculated；　amidst　the　most　bounding　joy　
and　bliss；　to　remind　man　of　his　doom！　　A　moment　before　I　had　felt　
quite　happy；　but　now　I　felt　sad　and　mournful。　　I　looked　at　my　wife　
and　daughter；　who　were　gazing　admiringly　on　the　beauteous　scenes　
around　them；　and　remembered　that　in　a　few　short　years　at　most　we　
should　all　three　be　laid　in　the　cold　narrow　house　formed　of　four　
elm　or　oaken　boards；　our　only　garment　the　flannel　shroud；　the　cold　
damp　earth　above　us；　instead　of　the　bright　glorious　sky。　　Oh；　how　
sad　and　mournful　I　became！　　I　soon　comforted　myself；　however；　by　
reflecting　that　such　is　the　will　of　Heaven；　and　that　Heaven　is　
good。

After　we　had　descended　the　avenue　some　way　John　Jones　began　to　look　
about　him；　and　getting　on　the　bank　on　the　left　side　disappeared。　　
We　went　on；　and　in　a　little　time　saw　him　again　beckoning　to　us　some　
way　farther　down；　but　still　on　the　bank。　　When　we　drew　nigh　to　him　
he　bade　us　get　on　the　bank；　we　did　so　and　followed　him　some　way；　
midst　furze　and　lyng。　　All　of　a　sudden　he　exclaimed；　〃There　it　is！〃　　
We　looked　and　saw　a　large　figure　standing　on　a　pedestal。　　On　going　
up　to　it　we　found　it　to　be　a　Hercules　leaning　on　his　club；　indeed　a　
copy　of　the　Farnese　Hercules；　as　we　gathered　from　an　inscription　in　
Latin　partly　defaced。　　We　felt　rather　disappointed；　as　we　expected　
that　it　would　have　turned　out　to　be　the　figure　of　some　huge　Welsh　
champion　of　old。　　We；　however；　said　nothing　to　our　guide。　　John　
Jones；　in　order　that　we　might　properly　appreciate　the　size　of　the　
statue　by　contrasting　it　with　his　own　body；　got　upon　the　pedestal　
and　stood　up　beside　the　figure；　to　the　elbow　of　which　his　head　
little　more　than　reached。

I　told　him　that　in　my　country；　the　eastern　part　of　Lloegr；　I　had　
seen　a　man　quite　as　tall　as　the　statue。

〃Indeed；　sir；〃　said　he；　〃who　is　it？〃

〃Hales　the　Norfolk　giant；〃　I　replied；　〃who　has　a　sister　seven　
inches　shorter　than　himself；　who　is　yet　seven　inches　taller　than　
any　man　in　the　county　when　her　brother　is　out　of　it。〃

When　John　Jones　got　down　he　asked　me　who　the　man　was　whom　the　
statue　was　intended　to　represent。

〃Erchwl；〃　I　replied；　〃a　mighty　man　of　old；　who　with　club　cleared　
the　country　of　thieves；　serpents；　and　monsters。〃

I　now　proposed　that　we　should　return　to　Llangollen；　whereupon　we　
retraced　our　steps；　and　had　nearly　reached　the　farm…house　of　the　
castle　when　John　Jones　said　that　we　had　better　return　by　the　low　
road；　by　doing　which　we　should　see　the　castle…lodge　and　also　its　
gate　which　was　considered　one　of　the　wonders　of　Wales。　　We　followed　
his　advice　and　passing　by　the　front　of　the　castle　northwards　soon　
came　to　the　lodge。　　The　lodge　had　nothing　remarkable　in　its　
appearance；　but　the　gate　which　was　of　iron　was　truly　magnificent。

On　the　top　were　two　figures　of　wolves　which　John　Jones　supposed　to　
be　those　of　foxes。　　The　wolf　of　Chirk　is　not　intended　to　be　
expressive　of　the　northern　name　of　its　proprietor；　but　as　the　
armorial　bearing　of　his　family　by　the　maternal　side；　and　originated　
in　one　Ryred；　surnamed　Blaidd　or　Wolf　from　his　ferocity　in　war；　
from　whom　the　family；　which　only　assumed　the　name　of　Middleton　in　
the　beginning　of　the　thirteenth　century；　on　the　occasion　of　its　
representative　marrying　a　rich　Shropshire　heiress　of　that　name；　
traces　descent。

The　wolf　of　Chirk　is　a　Cambrian　not　a　Gothic　wolf；　and　though　〃a　
wolf　of　battle；〃　is　the　wolf　not　of　Biddulph　but　of　Ryred。



CHAPTER　LV



A　Visitor　…　Apprenticeship　to　the　Law　…　Croch　Daranau　…　Lope　de　
Vega　…　No　Life　like　the　Traveller's。


ONE　morning　as　I　sat　alone　a　gentleman　was　announced。　　On　his　
entrance　I　recognised　in　him　the　magistrate's　clerk；　owing　to　whose　
good　word；　as　it　appeared　to　me；　I　had　been　permitted　to　remain　
during　the　examination　into　the　affair　of　the　wounded　butcher。　　He　
was　a　stout；　strong…made　man；　somewhat　under　the　middle　height；　
with　a　ruddy　face；　and　very　clear；　grey　eyes。　　I　handed　him　a　
chair；　which　he　took；　and　said　that　his　name　was　R…；　and　that　he　
had　taken　the　liberty　of　calling；　as　he　had　a　great　desire　to　be　
acquainted　with　me。　　On　my　asking　him　his　reason　for　that　desire　he　
told　me　that　it　proceeded　from　his　having　read　a　book　of　mine　about　
Spain；　which　had　much　interested　him。

〃Good；〃　said　I；　〃you　can't　give　an　author　a　better　reason　for　
coming　to　see　him　than　being　pleased　with　his　book。　　I　assure　you　
that　you　are　most　welcome。〃

After　a　little　general　discourse　I　said　that　I　presumed　he　was　in　
the　law。

〃Yes；〃　said　he；　〃I　am　a　member　of　that　much…abused　profession。〃

〃And　unjustly　abused；〃　said　I；　〃it　is　a　profession　which　abounds　
with　honourable　men；　and　in　which　I　believe　there　are　fewer　scamps　
than　in　any　other。　　The　most　honourable　men　I　have　ever　known　have　
been　lawyers；　they　were　men　whose　word　was　their　bond；　and　who　
would　have　preferred　ruin　to　breaking　it。　　There　was　my　old　master；　
in　particular；　who　would　have　died　sooner　than　broken　his　word。　　
God　bless　him！　　I　think　I　see　him　now　with　his　bald；　shining　pate；　
and　his　finger　on　an　open　page　of　'Preston's　Conveyancing。'〃

〃Sure　you　are　not　a　limb　of　the　law？〃　said　Mr　R…。

〃No；〃　said　I；　〃but　I　might　be；　for　I　served　an　apprenticeship　to　
it。〃

〃I　am　glad　to　hear　it；〃　said　Mr　R…；　shaking　me　by　the　hand。　　〃Take　
my　advice；　come　and　settle　at　Llangollen　and　be　my　partner。〃

〃If　I　did；〃　said　I；　〃I　am　afraid　that　our　partnership　would　be　of　
short　duration；　you　would　find　me　too　eccentric　and　flighty　for　the　
law。　　Have　you　a　good　practice？〃　I　demanded　after　a　pause。

〃I　have　no　reason　to　complain　of　it；〃　said　he；　with　a　contented　
air。

〃I　suppose　you　are　married？〃　said　I。

〃Oh　yes；〃　said　he；　〃I　have　both　a　wife　and　family。〃

〃A　native　of　Llangollen？〃　said　I。

〃No；〃　said　he：　　〃I　was　born　at　Llan　Silin；　a　place　some　way　off　
across　the　Berwyn。〃

〃Llan　Silin？〃　said　I；　〃I　have　a　great　desire　to　visit　it　some　day　
or　other。〃

〃Why　so？〃　said　he；　〃it　offers　nothing　interesting。〃

〃I　beg　your　pardon；〃　said　I；　〃unless　I　am　much　mistaken；　the　tomb　
of　the　great　poet　Huw　Morris　is　in　Llan　Silin　churchyard。〃

〃Is　it　possible　that　you　have　ever　heard　of　Huw　Morris？〃

〃Oh　yes；〃　said　I；　〃and　I　have　not　only　heard　of　him　but　am　
acquainted　with　his　writings；　I　read　them　when　a　boy。〃

〃How　very　extraordinary；〃　said　he；　〃well；　you　are　quite　right　about　
his　tomb；　when　a　boy　I　have　played　dozens　of　times　on　the　flat　
stone　with　my　schoolfellows。〃

We　talked　of　Welsh　poetry；　he　said　he　had　not　dipped　much　into　it；　
owing　to　its　difficulty；　that　he　was　master　of　the　colloquial　
language　of　Wales；　but　understood　very　little　of　the　language　of　
Welsh　poetry；　which　was　a　widely　different　thing。　　I　asked　him　
whether　he　had　seen　Owen　Pugh's　translation　of　Paradise　Lost。　　He　
said　he　had；　but　could　only　partially　understand　it；　adding；　
however；　that　those　parts　which　he　could　make　out　appeared　to　him　
to　be　admirably　executed；　that　amongst　these　there　was　one　which　
had　particularly　struck　him　namely：


〃Ar　eu　col　o　rygnu　croch
Daranau。〃


The　rendering　of　Milton's


〃And　on　their　hinges　grate
Harsh　thunder。〃


which；　grand　as　it　was；　was　certainly　equalled　by　the　Welsh　
version；　and　perhaps　surpassed；　for　that　he　was　disposed　to　think　
that　there　was　something　more　terrible　in　〃croch　daranau；〃　than　in　
〃harsh　thunder。〃

〃I　am　disposed　to　think　so　too；〃　said　I。　　〃Now　can　you　tell　me　
where　Owen　Pugh　is　buried？〃

〃I　cannot；〃　said　he；　〃but　I　suppose　you　can　tell　me；　you；　who　know　
the　burying…place　of　Huw　Morris　are　probably　acquainted　with　the　
burying…place　of　Owen　Pugh。〃

〃No；〃　said　I；　〃I　am　not。　　Unlike　Huw　Morris；　Owen　Pugh　has　never　
had　his　history　written；　though　perhaps　quite　as　interesting　a　
history　might　be　made　out　of　the　life　of　the　quiet　student　as　out　
of　that　of　the　popular　poet。　　As　soon　as　ever　I　learn　where　his　
grave　is　I　shall　assuredly　make　a　pilgrimage　to　it。〃　　Mr　R…　then　
asked　me　a　good　many　questions　about　Spain；　and　a　certain　singular　
race　of　people　about　whom　I　have　written　a　good　deal。　　Before　going　
away　he　told　me　that　a　friend　of　h