wild wales-第67章

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POVERTY


I　know；　and　the　thought　mighty　sorrow　instils；
The　sins　of　the　world　are　the　terrible　hills
An　eclipse　which　do　cause；　or　a　dread　obscuration；
To　one　or　another　in　every　vocation。


RICHES


It　is　true　that　God　gives　unto　each　from　his　birth
Some　task　to　perform　while　he　wends　upon　earth；
But　He　gives　correspondent　wisdom　and　force
To　the　weight　of　the　task；　and　the　length　of　the　course。

＇Exit。


POVERTY


I　hope　there　are　some；　who　'twixt　me　and　the　youth
Have　heard　this　discourse；　whose　sole　aim　is　the　truth；
Will　see　and　acknowledge；　as　homeward　they　plod；
Each　thing　is　arrang'd　by　the　wisdom　of　God。


There　can　be　no　doubt　that　Tom　was　a　poet；　or　he　could　never　have　
treated　the　hackneyed　subjects　of　Riches　and　Poverty　in　a　manner　so　
original　and　at　the　same　time　so　masterly　as　he　has　done　in　the　
interlude　above　analyzed：　　I　cannot；　however；　help　thinking　that　he　
was　greater　as　a　man　than　a　poet；　and　that　his　fame　depends　more　on　
the　cleverness；　courage　and　energy；　which　it　is　evident　by　his　
biography　that　he　possessed；　than　on　his　interludes。　　A　time　will　
come　when　his　interludes　will　cease　to　be　read；　but　his　making　ink　
out　of　elderberries；　his　battle　with　the　〃cruel　fighter；〃　his　
teaching　his　horses　to　turn　the　crane；　and　his　getting　the　ship　to　
the　water；　will　be　talked　of　in　Wales　till　the　peak　of　Snowdon　
shall　fall　down。



CHAPTER　LXI



Set　out　for　Wrexham　…　Craig　y　Forwyn　…　Uncertainty　…　The　Collier　…　
Cadogan　Hall　…　Methodistical　Volume。


HAVING　learnt　from　a　newspaper　that　a　Welsh　book　on　Welsh　Methodism　
had　been　just　published　at　Wrexham；　I　determined　to　walk　to　that　
place　and　purchase　it。　　I　could　easily　have　procured　the　work　
through　a　bookseller　at　Llangollen；　but　I　wished　to　explore　the　
hill…road　which　led　to　Wrexham；　what　the　farmer　under　the　Eglwysig　
rocks　had　said　of　its　wildness　having　excited　my　curiosity；　which　
the　procuring　of　the　book　afforded　me　a　plausible　excuse　for　
gratifying。　　If　one　wants　to　take　any　particular　walk　it　is　always　
well　to　have　some　business；　however　trifling；　to　transact　at　the　
end　of　it；　so　having　determined　to　go　to　Wrexham　by　the　mountain　
road；　I　set　out　on　the　Saturday　next　after　the　one　on　which　I　had　
met　the　farmer　who　had　told　me　of　it。

The　day　was　gloomy；　with　some　tendency　to　rain。　　I　passed　under　the　
hill　of　Dinas　Bran。　　About　a　furlong　from　its　western　base　I　turned　
round　and　surveyed　it　…　and　perhaps　the　best　view　of　the　noble　
mountain　is　to　be　obtained　from　the　place　where　I　turned　round。　　
How　grand　though　sad　from　there　it　looked；　that　grey　morning；　with　
its　fine　ruin　on　its　brow　above　which　a　little　cloud　hovered！　　It　
put　me　in　mind　of　some　old　king；　unfortunate　and　melancholy　but　a　
king　still；　with　the　look　of　a　king；　and　the　ancestral　crown　still　
on　his　furrowed　forehead。　　I　proceeded　on　my　way；　all　was　wild　and　
solitary；　and　the　yellow　leaves　were　falling　from　the　trees　of　the　
groves。　　I　passed　by　the　farmyard；　where　I　had　held　discourse　with　
the　farmer　on　the　preceding　Saturday；　and　soon　entered　the　glen；　
the　appearance　of　which　had　so　much　attracted　my　curiosity。　　A　
torrent；　rushing　down　from　the　north；　was　on　my　right。　　It　soon　
began　to　drizzle；　and　mist　so　filled　the　glen　that　I　could　only　
distinguish　objects　a　short　way　before　me；　and　on　either　side。　　I　
wandered　on　a　considerable　way；　crossing　the　torrent　several　times　
by　rustic　bridges。　　I　passed　two　lone　farm…houses　and　at　last　saw　
another　on　my　left　hand。　　The　mist　had　now　cleared　up；　but　it　still　
slightly　rained　…　the　scenery　was　wild　to　a　degree　…　a　little　way　
before　me　was　a　tremendous　pass；　near　it　an　enormous　crag　of　a　
strange　form　rising　to　the　very　heavens；　the　upper　part　of　it　of　a　
dull　white　colour。　　Seeing　a　respectable…looking　man　near　the　house　
I　went　up　to　him。

〃Am　I　in　the　right　way　to　Wrexham？〃　said　I；　addressing　him　in　
English。

〃You　can　get　to　Wrexham　this　way；　sir；〃　he　replied。

〃Can　you　tell　me　the　name　of　that　crag？〃　said　I；　pointing　to　the　
large　one。

〃That　crag；　sir；　is　called　Craig　y　Forwyn。〃

〃The　maiden's　crag；〃　said　I；　〃why　is　it　called　so？〃

〃I　do　not　know　sir；　some　people　say　that　it　is　called　so　because　
its　head　is　like　that　of　a　woman；　others　because　a　young　girl　in　
love　leaped　from　the　top　of　it　and　was　killed。〃

〃And　what　is　the　name　of　this　house？〃　said　I。

〃This　house；　sir；　is　called　Plas　Uchaf。〃

〃Is　it　called　Plas　Uchaf；〃　said　I；　〃because　it　is　the　highest　house　
in　the　valley？〃

〃It　is；　sir；　it　is　the　highest　of　three　homesteads；　the　next　below　
it　is　Plas　Canol　…　and　the　one　below　that　Plas　Isaf。〃

〃Middle　place　and　lower　place；〃　said　I。　　〃It　is　very　odd　that　I　
know　in　England　three　people　who　derive　their　names　from　places　so　
situated。　　One　is　Houghton；　another　Middleton；　and　the　third　
Lowdon；　in　modern　English；　Hightown；　Middletown；　and　Lowtown。〃

〃You　appear　to　be　a　person　of　great　intelligence；　sir。〃

〃No；　I　am　not　…　but　I　am　rather　fond　of　analysing　words；　
particularly　the　names　of　persons　and　places。　　Is　the　road　to　
Wrexham　hard　to　find？〃

〃Not　very；　sir；　that　is；　in　the　day…time。　　Do　you　live　at　Wrexham？〃

〃No；〃　I　replied；　〃I　am　stopping　at　Llangollen。〃

〃But　you　won't　return　there　to…night？〃

〃Oh　yes；　I　shall！〃

〃By　this　road？〃

〃No；　by　the　common　road。　　This　is　not　a　road　to　travel　by　night。〃

〃Nor　is　the　common　road；　sir；　for　a　respectable　person　on　foot；　
that　is；　on　a　Saturday　night。　　You　will　perhaps　meet　drunken　
colliers　who　may　knock　you　down。〃

〃I　will　take　my　chance　for　that；〃　said　I；　and　bade　him　farewell。　　I　
entered　the　pass；　passing　under　the　strange…looking　crag。　　After　I　
had　walked　about　half　a　mile　the　pass　widened　considerably　and　a　
little　way　further　on　debauched　on　some　wild　moory　ground。　　Here　
the　road　became　very　indistinct。　　At　length　I　stopped　in　a　state　of　
uncertainty。　　A　well…defined　path　presented　itself；　leading　to　the　
east；　whilst　northward　before　me　there　seemed　scarcely　any　path　at　
all。　　After　some　hesitation　I　turned　to　the　east　by　the　well…
defined　path；　and　by　so　doing　went　wrong；　as　I　soon　found。

I　mounted　the　side　of　a　brown　hill　covered　with　moss…like　grass；　
and　here　and　there　heather。　　By　the　time　I　arrived　at　the　top　of　
the　hill　the　sun　shone　out；　and　I　saw　Rhiwabon　and　Cefn　Mawr　before　
me　in　the　distance。　　〃I　am　going　wrong；〃　said　I；　〃I　should　have　
kept　on　due　north。　　However；　I　will　not　go　back；　but　will　steeple…
chase　it　across　the　country　to　Wrexham；　which　must　be　towards　the　
north…east。〃　　So　turning　aside　from　the　path；　I　dashed　across　the　
hills　in　that　direction；　sometimes　the　heather　was　up　to　my　knees；　
and　sometimes　I　was　up　to　the　knees　in　quags。　　At　length　I　came　to　
a　deep　ravine　which　I　descended；　at　the　bottom　was　a　quagmire；　
which；　however；　I　contrived　to　cross　by　means　of　certain　stepping…
stones；　and　came　to　a　cart　path　up　a　heathery　hill　which　I　
followed。　　I　soon　reached　the　top　of　the　hill；　and　the　path　still　
continuing；　I　followed　it　till　I　saw　some　small　grimy…looking　huts；　
which　I　supposed　were　those　of　colliers。　　At　the　door　of　the　first　
I　saw　a　girl。　　I　spoke　to　her　in　Welsh；　and　found　she　had　little　or　
none。　　I　passed　on；　and　seeing　the　door　of　a　cabin　open　I　looked　in　
…　and　saw　no　adult　person；　but　several　grimy　but　chubby　children。　　
I　spoke　to　them　in　English；　and　found　they　could　only　speak　Welsh。　　
Presently　I　observed　a　robust　woman　advancing　towards　me；　she　was　
barefooted　and　bore　on　her　head　an　immense　lump　of　coal。　　I　spoke　
to　her　in　Welsh；　and　found　she　could　only　speak　English。　　〃Truly；〃　
said　I　to　myself；　〃I　am　on　the　borders。　　What　a　mixture　of　races　
and　languages！〃　　The　next　person　I　met　was　a　man　in　a　collier's　
dress；　he　was　a　stout…built　fellow　of　the　middle　age；　with　a　coal…
dusty　surly　countenance。　　I　asked　him　in　Welsh　if　I　was　in　the　
right　direction　for　Wrexham；　he　answered　in　a　surly　manner　in　
English；　that　I　was。　　I　again　spoke　to　him　in　Welsh；　making　some　
indifferent　observation　on　the　weather；　and　he　answered　in　English　
yet　more　gruffly　than　before。　　For　the　third　time　I　spoke　to　him　in　
Welsh；　whereupon　looking　at　me　with　a　grin　of　savage　contempt；　and　
showing　a　set　of　teeth　like　those　of　a　mastiff；　he　said；　〃How's　
this？　why　you　haven't　a　word　of　English？　　A　pretty　fellow　you；　with　
a　long　coat　on　your　back　and　no　English　on　your　tongue；　an't　you　
ashamed　of　yourself？　　Why；　here　am　I　in　a　short　coat；　yet　I'd　have　
you　to　know　that　I　can　speak　English　as　well　as　Welsh；　aye　and　a　
good　deal　better。〃　　〃All　people　are　not　equally　clebber；〃　said　I；　
still　speaking　Welsh。　　〃Clebber；〃　said　he；　〃clebber！　what　is　
clebber？　why　can't　you　say　clever！　　Why；　I　never　saw　such　a　low；　
illiterate　fellow　in　my　life；〃　and　with　these　words　he　turned　away　
with　every　mark　of　disdain；　and　entered　a　cottage　near　at　hand。

〃Here　I　have　had；〃　said　I　to　myself；　as　I　proceeded　on　my　way；　〃to　
pay　for　the　over…praise　which　I　lately　received。　　The　farmer　on　the　
other　side　of　the　mountain　called　me　a　person　of　great　
intelligence；　which　I　never　pretended　to　be；　and　now　this　collier　
calls　me　a　low；　illiterate　fellow；　which　I　really　don't　think　I　am。　　
There　is　certainly　a　Nemesis　mixed　up　with　the　affairs　of　this　
world；　every　good　thing　which　you　get；　beyond　what　is　strictly　your　
due；　is　sure　to　be　required　from　you　with　a　vengeance。　　A　little　
over…praise　by　a　great　deal　of　underrating　…　a　gleam　of　good　
fortune　by　a　night　of　misery。〃

I　now　saw　Wrexham　Church　at　about　the　distance　of　three　miles；　and　
presently　entered　a　lane　which　led　gently　down　from　the　hills；　
which　were　the　same　heights　I　had　seen　on　my　right　hand；　some　
months　previously；　on　my　way　from　Wrexham　to　Rhiwabon。　　The　scenery　
now　became　very　pretty　…　hedge…rows　were　on　either　side；　a　
luxuriance　of　trees　and　plenty　of　green　fields。　　I　reached　the　
bottom　of　the　lane；　beyond　which　I　saw　a　strange…looking　house　upon　
a　slope　on　the　right　hand。　　It　was　very　large；　ruinous；　and　
seemingly　deserted。　　A　little　beyond　it　was　a　farm…house；　connected　
with　which　was　a　long　row　of　farming　buildings　along　the　road…side。　　
Seeing　a　woman　seated　knitting　at　the　door　of　a　little　cottage；　I　
asked　her　in　English　the　name　of　the　old；　ruinous　house？

〃Cadogan　Hall；　sir；〃　she　replied。

〃And　whom　does　it　belong　to？〃　said　I。

〃I　don't　know　exactly；〃　replied　the　woman；　〃but　Mr　Morris　at　the　
farm　holds　it；　and　stows　his　things　in　it。〃

〃Can　you　tell　me　anything　about　it？〃　said　I。

〃Nothing　farther；〃　said　the　woman；　〃than　that　it　is　said　to　be　
haunted；　and　to　have　been　a　barrack　many　years　ago。〃

〃Can　you　speak　Welsh？〃　said　I。

〃No；〃　said　the　woman；　〃I　are　Welsh　but　have　no　Welsh　language。〃

Leaving　the　woman　I　put　on　my　best　speed　and　in　about　half　an　hour　
reached　Wrexham。

The　first　thing　I　did　on　my　arrival　was　to　go　to　the　bookshop　and　
purchase　the　Welsh　Methodistic　book。　　It　cost　me　seven　shillings；　
and　was　a　thick；　bulky　octavo　with　a　cut…and…come…again　expression　
about　it；　which　was　anything　but　disagreeable　to　me；　for　I　hate　
your　flimsy　publications。　　The　evening　was　now　beginning　to　set　in；　
and　feeling　somewhat　hun