wild wales-第69章

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said　I　am　all　right　for　the　Deheubarth。

As　my　wife　and　daughter　required　much　more　time　in　making　
preparations　for　their　journey　than　I　for　mine；　and　as　I　should　
only　be　in　their　way　whilst　they　were　employed；　it　was　determined　
that　I　should　depart　on　my　expedition　on　Thursday；　and　that　they　
should　remain　at　Llangollen　till　the　Saturday。

We　were　at　first　in　some　perplexity　with　respect　to　the　disposal　of　
the　ecclesiastical　cat；　it　would　of　course　not　do　to　leave　it　in　
the　garden　to　the　tender　mercies　of　the　Calvinistic　Methodists　of　
the　neighbourhood；　more　especially　those　of　the　flannel　
manufactory；　and　my　wife　and　daughter　could　hardly　carry　it　with　
them。　　At　length　we　thought　of　applying　to　a　young　woman　of　sound　
church　principles；　who　was　lately　married　and　lived　over　the　water　
on　the　way　to　the　railroad　station；　with　whom　we　were　slightly　
acquainted；　to　take　charge　of　the　animal；　and　she　on　the　first　
intimation　of　our　wish；　willingly　acceded　to　it。　　So　with　her　poor　
puss　was　left　along　with　a　trifle　for　its　milk…money；　and　with　her；　
as　we　subsequently　learned；　it　continued　in　peace　and　comfort　till　
one　morning　it　sprang　suddenly　from　the　hearth　into　the　air；　gave　a　
mew；　and　died。　　So　much　for　the　ecclesiastical　cat！

The　morning　of　Tuesday　was　rather　fine；　and　Mr　Ebenezer　E…；　who　had　
heard　of　our　intended　departure；　came　to　invite　us　to　spend　the　
evening　at　the　Vicarage。　　His　father　had　left　Llangollen　the　day　
before　for　Chester；　where　he　expected　to　be　detained　some　days。　　I　
told　him　we　should　be　most　happy　to　come。　　He　then　asked　me　to　take　
a　walk。　　I　agreed　with　pleasure；　and　we　set　out；　intending　to　go　to　
Llansilio　at　the　western　end　of　the　valley　and　look　at　the　church。　　
The　church　was　an　ancient　building。　　It　had　no　spire；　but　had　the　
little　erection　on　its　roof；　so　usual　to　Welsh　churches；　for　
holding　a　bell。

In　the　churchyard　is　a　tomb　in　which　an　old　squire　of　the　name　of　
Jones　was　buried　about　the　middle　of　the　last　century。　　There　is　a　
tradition　about　this　squire　and　tomb　to　the　following　effect。　　
After　the　squire's　death　there　was　a　lawsuit　about　his　property；　in　
consequence　of　no　will　having　been　found。　　It　was　said　that　his　
will　had　been　buried　with　him　in　the　tomb；　which　after　some　time　
was　opened；　but　with　what　success　the　tradition　sayeth　not。

In　the　evening　we　went　to　the　Vicarage。　　Besides　the　family　and　
ourselves　there　was　Mr　R…　and　one　or　two　more。　　We　had　a　very　
pleasant　party；　and　as　most　of　those　present　wished　to　hear　
something　connected　with　Spain；　I　talked　much　about　that　country；　
sang　songs　of　Germania；　and　related　in　an　abridged　form　Lope　de　
Vega's　ghost　story；　which　is　decidedly　the　best　ghost　story　in　the　
world。

In　the　afternoon　of　Wednesday　I　went　and　took　leave　of　certain　
friends　in　the　town；　amongst　others　of　old　Mr　Jones。　　On　my　telling　
him　that　I　was　about　to　leave　Llangollen；　he　expressed　considerable　
regret；　but　said　that　it　was　natural　for　me　to　wish　to　return　to　my　
native　country。　　I　told　him　that　before　returning　to　England　I　
intended　to　make　a　pedestrian　tour　in　South　Wales。　　He　said　that　he　
should　die　without　seeing　the　south；　that　he　had　had　several　
opportunities　of　visiting　it　when　he　was　young；　which　he　had　
neglected；　and　that　he　was　now　too　old　to　wander　far　from　home。　　He　
then　asked　me　which　road　I　intended　to　take。　　I　told　him　that　I　
intended　to　strike　across　the　Berwyn　to　Llan　Rhyadr；　then　visit　
Sycharth；　once　the　seat　of　Owain　Glendower；　lying　to　the　east　of　
Llan　Rhyadr；　then　return　to　that　place；　and　after　seeing　the　
celebrated　cataract　across　the　mountains　to　Bala　…　whence　I　should　
proceed　due　south。　　I　then　asked　him　whether　he　had　ever　seen　
Sycharth　and　the　Rhyadr；　he　told　me　that　he　had　never　visited　
Sycharth；　but　had　seen　the　Rhyadr　more　than　once。　　He　then　smiled　
and　said　that　there　was　a　ludicrous　anecdote　connected　with　the　
Rhyadr；　which　he　would　relate　to　me。　　〃A　traveller　once　went　to　see　
the　Rhyadr；　and　whilst　gazing　at　it　a　calf　which　had　fallen　into　
the　stream　above；　whilst　grazing　upon　the　rocks；　came　tumbling　down　
the　cataract。　　'Wonderful！'　said　the　traveller；　and　going　away　
reported　that　it　was　not　only　a　fall　of　water；　but　of　calves；　and　
was　very　much　disappointed；　on　visiting　the　waterfall　on　another　
occasion；　to　see　no　calf　come　tumbling　down。〃　　I　took　leave　of　the　
kind　old　gentleman　with　regret；　never　expecting　to　see　him　again；　
as　he　was　in　his　eighty…fourth　year　…　he　was　a　truly　excellent　
character；　and　might　be　ranked　amongst　the　venerable　ornaments　of　
his　native　place。

About　half…past　eight　o'clock　at　night　John　Jones　came　to　bid　me　
farewell。　　I　bade　him　sit　down；　and　sent　for　a　pint　of　ale　to　
regale　him　with。　　Notwithstanding　the　ale；　he　was　very　melancholy　
at　the　thought　that　I　was　about　to　leave　Llangollen；　probably　never　
to　return。　　To　enliven　him　I　gave　him　an　account　of　my　late　
expedition　to　Wrexham；　which　made　him　smile　more　than　once。　　When　I　
had　concluded　he　asked　me　whether　I　knew　the　meaning　of　the　word　
Wrexham：　　I　told　him　I　believed　I　did；　and　gave　him　the　derivation　
which　the　reader　will　find　in　an　early　chapter　of　this　work。　　He　
told　me　that　with　all　due　submission；　he　thought　he　could　give　me　a　
better；　which　he　had　heard　from　a　very　clever　man；　gwr　deallus　
iawn；　who　lived　about　two　miles　from　Llangollen　on　the　Corwen　road。　　
In　the　old　time　a　man　of　the　name　of　Sam　kept　a　gwestfa；　or　inn；　at　
the　place　where　Wrexham　flow　stands；　when　he　died　he　left　it　to　his　
wife；　who　kept　it　after　him；　on　which　account　the　house　was　first　
called　Ty　wraig　Sam；　the　house　of　Sam's　wife；　and　then　for　
shortness　Wraig　Sam；　and　a　town　arising　about　it　by　degrees；　the　
town　too　was　called　Wraig　Sam；　which　the　Saxons　corrupted　into　
Wrexham。

I　was　much　diverted　with　this　Welsh　derivation　of　Wrexham；　which　I　
did　not　attempt　to　controvert。　　After　we　had　had　some　further　
discourse　John　Jones　got　up；　shook　me　by　the　hand；　gave　a　sigh；　
wished　me　a　〃taith　hyfryd；〃　and　departed。　　Thus　terminated　my　last　
day　at　Llangollen。



CHAPTER　LXIV



Departure　for　South　Wales　…　Tregeiriog　…　Pleasing　Scene　…　Trying　to　
Read　…　Garmon　and　Lupus　…　The　Cracked　Voice　…　Effect　of　a　
Compliment　…　Llan　Rhyadr。


THE　morning　of　the　21st　of　October　was　fine　and　cold；　there　was　a　
rime　frost　on　the　ground。　　At　about　eleven　o'clock　I　started　on　my　
journey　for　South　Wales；　intending　that　my　first　stage　should　be　
Llan　Rhyadr。　　My　wife　and　daughter　accompanied　me　as　far　as　Plas　
Newydd。　　As　we　passed　through　the　town　I　shook　hands　with　honest　A…
；　whom　I　saw　standing　at　the　door　of　a　shop；　with　a　kind　of　Spanish　
hat　on　his　head；　and　also　with　my　venerable　friend　old　Mr　Jones；　
whom　I　encountered　close　beside　his　own　domicile。　　At　the　Plas　
Newydd　I　took　an　affectionate　farewell　of　my　two　loved　ones；　and　
proceeded　to　ascend　the　Berwyn。　　Near　the　top　I　turned　round　to　
take　a　final　look　at　the　spot　where　I　had　lately　passed　many　a　
happy　hour。　　There　lay　Llangollen　far　below　me；　with　its　chimneys　
placidly　smoking；　its　pretty　church　rising　in　its　centre；　its　blue　
river　dividing　it　into　two　nearly　equal　parts；　and　the　mighty　hill　
of　Brennus　overhanging　it　from　the　north。

I　sighed；　and　repeating　Einion　Du's　verse


〃Tangnefedd　i　Llangollen！〃


turned　away。

I　went　over　the　top　of　the　hill　and　then　began　to　descend　its　
southern　side；　obtaining　a　distant　view　of　the　plains　of　Shropshire　
on　the　east。　　I　soon　reached　the　bottom　of　the　hill；　passed　through　
Llansanfraid；　and　threading　the　vale　of　the　Ceiriog　at　length　found　
myself　at　Pont　y　Meibion　in　front　of　the　house　of　Huw　Morris；　or　
rather　of　that　which　is　built　on　the　site　of　the　dwelling　of　the　
poet。　　I　stopped　and　remained　before　the　house　thinking　of　the　
mighty　Huw；　till　the　door　opened；　and　out　came　the　dark…featured　
man；　the　poet's　descendant；　whom　I　saw　when　visiting　the　place　in　
company　with　honest　John　Jones　…　he　had　now　a　spade　in　his　hand　and　
was　doubtless　going　to　his　labour。　　As　I　knew　him　to　be　of　a　rather　
sullen　unsocial　disposition；　I　said　nothing　to　him；　but　proceeded　
on　my　way。　　As　I　advanced　the　valley　widened；　the　hills　on　the　west　
receding　to　some　distance　from　the　river。　　Came　to　Tregeiriog　a　
small　village；　which　takes　its　name　from　the　brook；　Tregeiriog　
signifying　the　hamlet　or　village　on　the　Ceiriog。　　Seeing　a　bridge　
which　crossed　the　rivulet　at　a　slight　distance　from　the　road；　a　
little　beyond　the　village；　I　turned　aside　to　look　at　it。　　The　
proper　course　of　the　Ceiriog　is　from　south　to　north；　where　it　is　
crossed　by　the　bridge；　however；　it　runs　from　west　to　east；　
returning　to　its　usual　course；　a　little　way　below　the　bridge。　　The　
bridge　was　small　and　presented　nothing　remarkable　in　itself：　　I　
obtained；　however；　as　I　looked　over　its　parapet　towards　the　west　a　
view　of　a　scene；　not　of　wild　grandeur；　but　of　something　which　I　
like　better；　which　richly　compensated　me　for　the　slight　trouble　I　
had　taken　in　stepping　aside　to　visit　the　little　bridge。　　About　a　
hundred　yards　distant　was　a　small　water…mill；　built　over　the　
rivulet；　the　wheel　going　slowly；　slowly　round；　large　quantities　of　
pigs；　the　generality　of　them　brindled；　were　either　browsing　on　the　
banks　or　lying　close　to　the　sides　half　immersed　in　the　water；　one　
immense　white　hog；　the　monarch　seemingly　of　the　herd；　was　standing　
in　the　middle　of　the　current。　　Such　was　the　scene　which　I　saw　from　
the　bridge；　a　scene　of　quiet　rural　life　well　suited　to　the　brushes　
of　two　or　three　of　the　old　Dutch　painters；　or　to　those　of　men　
scarcely　inferior　to　them　in　their　own　style；　Gainsborough；　
Moreland；　and　Crome。　　My　mind　for　the　last　half…hour　had　been　in　a　
highly　excited　state；　I　had　been　repeating　verses　of　old　Huw　
Morris；　brought　to　my　recollection　by　the　sight　of　his　dwelling…
place；　they　were　ranting　roaring　verses；　against　the　Roundheads。　　I　
admired　the　vigour　but　disliked　the　principles　which　they　
displayed；　and　admiration　on　the　one　hand　and　disapproval　on　the　
other；　bred　a　commotion　in　my　mind　like　that　raised　on　the　sea　when　
tide　runs　one　way　and　wind　blows　another。　　The　quiet　scene　from　the　
bridge；　however；　produced　a　sedative　effect　on　my　mind；　and　when　I　
resumed　my　journey　I　had　forgotten　Huw；　his　verses；　and　all　about　
Roundheads　and　Cavaliers。

I　reached　Llanarmon；　another　small　village；　situated　in　a　valley　
through　which　the　Ceiriog　or　a　river　very　similar　to　it　flows。　　It　
is　half…way　between　Llangollen　and　Llan　Rhyadr；　being　ten　miles　
from　each。　　I　went　to　a　small　inn　or　public…house；　sat　down　and　
called　for　ale。　　A　waggoner　was　seated　at　a　large　table　with　a　
newspaper　before　him　on　which　he　was　intently　staring。

〃What　news？〃　said　I　in　English。

〃I　wish　I　could　tell　you；〃　said　he　in　very　broken　English；　〃but　I　
cannot　read。〃

〃Then　why　are　you　looking　at　the　paper？〃　said　I。

〃Because；〃　said　he；　〃by　looking　at　the　letters　I　hope　in　time　to　
make　them　out。〃

〃You　may　look　at　them；〃　said　I；　〃for　fifty　years　without　being　able　
to　make　out　one。　　You　should　go　to　an　evening　school。〃

〃I　am　too　old；〃　said　he；　〃to　do　so　now；　if　I　did　the　children　woul