wild wales-第70章

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to　make　out　one。　　You　should　go　to　an　evening　school。〃

〃I　am　too　old；〃　said　he；　〃to　do　so　now；　if　I　did　the　children　would　
laugh　at　me。〃

〃Never　mind　their　laughing　at　you；〃　said　I；　〃provided　you　learn　to　
read；　let　them　laugh　who　win！〃

〃You　give　good　advice；　mester；〃　said　he；　〃I　think　I　shall　follow　
it。〃

〃Let　me　look　at　the　paper；〃　said　I。

He　handed　it　to　me。　　It　was　a　Welsh　paper；　and　full　of　dismal　
accounts　from　the　seat　of　war。

〃What　news；　mester？〃　said　the　waggoner。

〃Nothing　but　bad；〃　said　I；　〃the　Russians　are　beating　us　and　the　
French　too。〃

〃If　the　Rusiaid　beat　us；〃　said　the　waggoner；　〃it　is　because　the　
Francod　are　with　us。　　We　should　have　gone　alone。〃

〃Perhaps　you　are　right；〃　said　I；　〃at　any　rate　we　could　not　have　
fared　worse　than　we　are　faring　now。〃

I　presently　paid　for　what　I　had　had；　inquired　the　way　to　Llan　
Rhyadr；　and　departed。

The　village　of　Llanarmon　takes　its　name　from　its　church；　which　is　
dedicated　to　Garmon；　an　Armorican　bishop；　who　with　another　called　
Lupus　came　over　into　Britain　in　order　to　preach　against　the　heresy　
of　Pelagius。　　He　and　his　colleague　resided　for　some　time　in　
Flintshire；　and　whilst　there　enabled　in　a　remarkable　manner　the　
Britons　to　achieve　a　victory　over　those　mysterious　people　the　
Picts；　who　were　ravaging　the　country　far　and　wide。　　Hearing　that　
the　enemy　were　advancing　towards　Mold；　the　two　bishops　gathered　
together　a　number　of　the　Britons；　and　placed　them　in　ambush　in　a　
dark　valley　through　which　it　was　necessary　for　the　Picts　to　pass　in　
order　to　reach　Mold；　strictly　enjoining　them　to　remain　quiet　till　
all　their　enemies　should　have　entered　the　valley　and　then　do　
whatever　they　should　see　them；　the　two　bishops；　do。　　The　Picts　
arrived；　and　when　they　were　about　half…way　through　the　valley　the　
two　bishops　stepped　forward　from　a　thicket　and　began　crying　aloud；　
〃Alleluia！〃　　The　Britons　followed　their　example；　and　the　wooded　
valley　resounded　with　cries　of　〃Alleluia！　Alleluia！〃　　The　shouts　
and　the　unexpected　appearance　of　thousands　of　men　caused　such　
terror　to　the　Picts　that　they　took　to　flight　in　the　greatest　
confusion；　hundreds　were　trampled　to　death　by　their　companions；　and　
not　a　few　were　drowned　in　the　river　Alan　（8）　which　runs　through　the　
valley。

There　are　several　churches　dedicated　to　Garmon　in　Wales；　but　
whether　there　are　any　dedicated　to　Lupus　I　am　unable　to　say。　　After　
leaving　Llanarmon　I　found　myself　amongst　lumpy　hills　through　which　
the　road　led　in　the　direction　of　the　south。　　Arriving　where　several　
roads　met　I　followed　one　and　became　bewildered　amidst　hills　and　
ravines。　　At　last　I　saw　a　small　house　close　by　a　nant　or　dingle；　
and　turned　towards　it　for　the　purpose　of　inquiring　my　way。　　On　my　
knocking　at　the　door　a　woman　made　her　appearance；　of　whom　I　asked　
in　Welsh　whether　I　was　in　the　road　to　Llan　Rhyadr。　　She　said　that　I　
was　out　of　it；　but　that　if　I　went　towards　the　south　I　should　see　a　
path　on　my　left　which　would　bring　me　to　it。　　I　asked　her　how　far　it　
was　to　Llan　Rhyadr。

〃Four　long　miles；〃　she　replied。

〃And　what　is　the　name　of　the　place　where　we　are　now？〃　said　I。

〃Cae　Hir〃　（the　long　inclosure）；　said　she。

〃Are　you　alone　in　the　house？〃　said　I。

〃Quite　alone；〃　said　she；　〃but　my　husband　and　people　will　soon　be　
home　from　the　field；　for　it　is　getting　dusk。〃

〃Have　you　any　Saxon？〃　said　I。

〃Not　a　word；〃　said　she；　〃have　I　of　the　iaith　dieithr；　nor　has　my　
husband；　nor　any　one　of　my　people。〃

I　bade　her　farewell；　and　soon　reached　the　road；　which　led　south　and　
north。　　As　I　was　bound　for　the　south　I　strode　forward　briskly　in　
that　direction。　　The　road　was　between　romantic　hills；　heard　Welsh　
songs　proceeding　from　the　hill　fields　on　my　right；　and　the　murmur　
of　a　brook　rushing　down　a　deep　nant　on　my　left。　　I　went　on　till　I　
came　to　a　collection　of　houses　which　an　old　woman；　with　a　cracked　
voice　and　a　small　tin　milk…pail；　whom　I　assisted　in　getting　over　a　
stile　into　the　road；　told　me　was　called　Pen　Strit　…　probably　the　
head　of　the　street。　　She　spoke　English；　and　on　my　asking　her　how　
she　had　learnt　the　English　tongue；　she　told　me　that　she　had　learnt　
it　of　her　mother　who　was　an　English　woman。　　She　said　that　I　was　two　
miles　from　Llan　Rhyadr；　and　that　I　must　go　straight　forward。　　I　did　
so　till　I　reached　a　place　where　the　road　branched　into　two；　one　
bearing　somewhat　to　the　left；　and　the　other　to　the　right。　　After　
standing　a　minute　in　perplexity　I　took　the　right…hand　road；　but　
soon　guessed　that　I　had　taken　the　wrong　one；　as　the　road　dwindled　
into　a　mere　footpath。　　Hearing　some　one　walking　on　the　other　side　
of　the　hedge　I　inquired　in　Welsh　whether　I　was　going　right　for　Llan　
Rhyadr；　and　was　answered　by　a　voice　in　English；　apparently　that　of　
a　woman；　that　I　was　not；　and　that　I　must　go　back。　　I　did　so；　and　
presently　a　woman　came　through　a　gate　to　me。

〃Are　you　the　person；〃　said　I；　〃who　just　now　answered　me　in　English　
after　I　had　spoken　in　Welsh？〃

〃In　truth　I　am；〃　said　she；　with　a　half　laugh。

〃And　how　came　you　to　answer　me　in　English　after　I　had　spoken　to　you　
in　Welsh？〃

〃Because；〃　said　she；　〃it　was　easy　enough　to　know　by　your　voice　that　
you　were　an　Englishman。〃

〃You　speak　English　remarkably　well；〃　said　I。

〃And　so　do　you　Welsh；〃　said　the　woman；　〃I　had　no　idea　that　it　was　
possible　for　any　Englishman　to　speak　Welsh　half　so　well。〃

〃I　wonder；〃　thought　I　to　myself；　〃what　you　would　have　answered　if　I　
had　said　that　you　speak　English　execrably。〃　　By　her　own　account　she　
could　read　both　Welsh　and　English。　　She　walked　by　my　side　to　the　
turn；　and　then　up　the　left…hand　road；　which　she　said　was　the　way　to　
Llan　Rhyadr。　　Coming　to　a　cottage　she　bade　me　good…night　and　went　
in。　　The　road　was　horribly　miry：　　presently；　as　I　was　staggering　
through　a　slough；　just　after　I　had　passed　a　little　cottage；　I　heard　
a　cracked　voice　crying；　〃I　suppose　you　lost　your　way？〃　　I　
recognised　it　as　that　of　the　old　woman　whom　I　had　helped　over　the　
stile。　　She　was　now　standing　behind　a　little　gate　which　opened　into　
a　garden　before　the　cottage。　　The　figure　of　a　man　was　standing　near　
her。　　I　told　her　that　she　was　quite　right　in　her　supposition。

〃Ah；〃　said　she；　〃you　should　have　gone　straight　forward。〃

〃If　I　had　gone　straight　forward；〃　said　I；　〃I　must　have　gone　over　a　
hedge；　at　the　corner　of　a　field　which　separated　two　roads；　instead　
of　bidding　me　go　straight　forward　you　should　have　told　me　to　follow　
the　left…hand　road。〃

〃Well；〃　said　she；　〃be　sure　you　keep　straight　forward　now。〃

I　asked　her　who　the　man　was　standing　near　her。

〃It　is　my　husband；〃　said　she。

〃Has　he　much　English？〃　said　I。

〃None　at　all；〃　said　she；　〃for　his　mother　was　not　English；　like　
mine。〃　　I　bade　her　good…night　and　went　forward。　　Presently　I　came　
to　a　meeting　of　roads；　and　to　go　straight　forward　it　was　necessary　
to　pass　through　a　quagmire；　remembering；　however；　the　words　of　my　
friend　the　beldame　I　went　straight　forward；　though　in　so　doing　I　
was　sloughed　up　to　the　knees。　　In　a　little　time　I　came　to　rapid　
descent；　and　at　the　bottom　of　it　to　a　bridge。　　It　was　now　very　
dark；　only　the　corner　of　the　moon　was　casting　a　faint　light。　　After　
crossing　the　bridge　I　had　one　or　two　ascents　and　descents。　　At　last　
I　saw　lights　before　me　which　proved　to　be　those　of　Llan　Rhyadr。　　I　
soon　found　myself　in　a　dirty　little　street；　and；　inquiring　for　the　
inn；　was　kindly　shown　by　a　man　to　one　which　he　said　was　the　best；　
and　which　was　called　the　Wynstay　Arms。



CHAPTER　LXV



Inn　at　Llan　Rhyadr　…　A　low　Englishman　…　Enquiries　…　The　Cook　…　A　
Precious　Couple。


THE　inn　seemed　very　large；　but　did　not　look　very　cheerful。　　No　
other　guest　than　myself　seemed　to　be　in　it；　except　in　the　kitchen；　
where　I　heard　a　fellow　talking　English　and　occasionally　yelling　an　
English　song：　　the　master　and　the　mistress　of　the　house　were　civil；　
and　lighted　me　a　fire　in　what　was　called　the　Commercial　Room；　and　
putting　plenty　of　coals　in　the　grate　soon　made　the　apartment　warm　
and　comfortable。　　I　ordered　dinner　or　rather　supper；　which　in　about　
half…an…hour　was　brought　in　by　the　woman。　　The　supper　whether　good　
or　bad　I　despatched　with　the　appetite　of　one　who　had　walked　twenty　
miles　over　hill　and　dale。

Occasionally　I　heard　a　dreadful　noise　in　the　kitchen；　and　the　woman　
told　me　that　the　fellow　there　was　making　himself　exceedingly　
disagreeable；　chiefly　she　believed　because　she　had　refused　to　let　
him　sleep　in　the　house。　　She　said　that　he　was　a　low　fellow　that　
went　about　the　country　with　fish；　and　that　he　was　the　more　ready　to　
insult　her　as　the　master　of　the　house　was　now　gone　out。　　I　asked　if　
he　was　an　Englishman；　〃Yes；〃　said　she；　〃a　low　Englishman。〃

〃Then　he　must　be　low　indeed；〃　said　I。　　〃A　low　Englishman　is　the　
lowest　of　the　low。〃　　After　a　little　time　I　heard　no　more　noise；　and　
was　told　that　the　fellow　was　gone　away。　　I　had　a　little　whisky　and　
water；　and　then　went　to　bed；　sleeping　in　a　tolerable　chamber　but　
rather　cold。　　There　was　much　rain　during　the　night　and　also　wind；　
windows　rattled；　and　I　occasionally　heard　the　noise　of　falling　
tiles。

I　arose　about　eight。　　Notwithstanding　the　night　had　been　so　
tempestuous　the　morning　was　sunshiny　and　beautiful。　　Having　ordered　
breakfast　I　walked　out　in　order　to　look　at　the　town。　　Llan　Rhyadr　
is　a　small　place；　having　nothing　remarkable　in　it　save　an　ancient　
church　and　a　strange　little　antique　market…house；　standing　on　
pillars。　　It　is　situated　at　the　western　end　of　an　extensive　valley　
and　at　the　entrance　of　a　glen。　　A　brook　or　rivulet　runs　through　it；　
which　comes　down　the　glen　from　the　celebrated　cataract；　which　is　
about　four　miles　distant　to　the　west。　　Two　lofty　mountains　form　the　
entrance　of　the　glen；　and　tower　above　the　town；　one　on　the　south　
and　the　other　on　the　north。　　Their　names；　if　they　have　any；　I　did　
not　learn。

After　strolling　about　the　little　place　for　about　a　quarter　of　an　
hour；　staring　at　the　things　and　the　people；　and　being　stared　at　by　
the　latter；　I　returned　to　my　inn；　a　structure　built　in　the　modern　
Gothic　style；　and　which　stands　nearly　opposite　to　the　churchyard。　　
Whilst　breakfasting　I　asked　the　landlady；　who　was　bustling　about　
the　room；　whether　she　had　ever　heard　of　Owen　Glendower。

〃In　truth；　sir；　I　have。　　He　was　a　great　gentleman　who　lived　a　long　
time　ago；　and；　and　…　〃

〃Gave　the　English　a　great　deal　of　trouble；〃　said　I。

〃Just　so；　sir；　at　least　I　daresay　it　is　so；　as　you　say　it。〃

〃And　do　you　know　where　he　lived？〃

〃I　do　not；　sir；　I　suppose　a　great　way　off；　somewhere　in　the　south。〃

〃Do　you　mean　South　Wales？〃

〃In　truth；　sir；　I　do。〃

〃There　you　are　mistaken；〃　said　I；　〃and　also　in　supposing　he　lived　a　
great　way　off。　　He　lived　in　North　Wales；　and　not　far　from　this　
place。〃

〃In　truth；　sir；　you　know　more　about　him　than　I。〃

〃Did　you　ever　hear　of　a　place　called　Sycharth？

〃Sycharth！　Sycharth！　　I　never　did；　sir。〃

〃It　is　the　place　where　Glendower　lived；　and　it　is　not　far　off。　　I　
want　to　go　there；　but　do　not　know　the　way。〃

〃Sycharth！　Sycharth！〃　said　the　landlady　musingly：　　〃I　wonder　if　it　
is　the　place　we　call　Sychnant。〃

〃Is　there　such　a　place？〃

〃Yes；　sure；　about　six　miles　from　here；　near　Langedwin。〃

〃What