wild wales-第71章

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〃Is　there　such　a　place？〃

〃Yes；　sure；　about　six　miles　from　here；　near　Langedwin。〃

〃What　kind　of　place　is　it？〃

〃In　truth；　sir；　I　do　not　know；　for　I　was　never　there。　　My　cook；　
however；　in　the　kitchen；　knows　all　about　it；　for　she　comes　from　
there。〃

〃Can　I　see　her？〃

〃Yes；　sure；　I　will　go　at　once　and　fetch　her。〃

She　then　left　the　room　and　presently　returned　with　the　cook；　a　
short；　thick　girl　with　blue　staring　eyes。

〃Here　she　is；　sir；〃　said　the　landlady；　〃but　she　has　no　English。〃

〃All　the　better；〃　said　I。　　〃So　you　come　from　a　place　called　
Sychnant？〃　said　I　to　the　cook　in　Welsh。

〃In　truth；　sir；　I　do；〃　said　the　cook。

〃Did　you　ever　hear　of　a　gwr　boneddig　called　Owen　Glendower？〃

〃Often；　sir；　often；　he　lived　in　our　place。〃

〃He　lived　in　a　place　called　Sycharth？〃　said　I。

〃Well；　sir；　and　we　of　the　place　call　it　Sycharth　as　often　as　
Sychnant；　nay；　oftener。〃

〃Is　his　house　standing？〃

〃It　is　not；　but　the　hill　on　which　it　stood　is　still　standing。〃

〃Is　it　a　high　hill？〃

〃It　is　not；　it　is　a　small；　light　hill。〃

〃A　light　hill！〃　said　I　to　myself。　　〃Old　Iolo　Goch；　Owen　Glendower's　
bard；　said　the　chieftain　dwelt　in　a　house　on　a　light　hill。


〃'There　dwells　the　chief　we　all　extol
In　timber　house　on　lightsome　knoll。'


〃Is　there　a　little　river　near　it；〃　said　I　to　the　cook；　〃a　ffrwd？〃

〃There　is；　it　runs　just　under　the　hill。〃

〃Is　there　a　mill　upon　the　ffrwd？〃

〃There　is　not；　that　is；　now　…　but　there　was　in　the　old　time；　a　
factory　of　woollen　stands　now　where　the　mill　once　stood。〃


〃'A　mill　a　rushing　brook　upon
And　pigeon　tower　fram'd　of　stone。'


〃So　says　Iolo　Goch；〃　said　I　to　myself；　〃in　his　description　of　
Sycharth；　I　am　on　the　right　road。〃

I　asked　the　cook　to　whom　the　property　of　Sycharth　belonged　and　was　
told　of　course　to　Sir　Watkin；　who　appears　to　be　the　Marquis　of　
Denbighshire。　　After　a　few　more　questions　I　thanked　her　and　told　
her　she　might　go。　　I　then　finished　my　breakfast；　paid　my　bill；　and　
after　telling　the　landlady　that　I　should　return　at　night；　started　
for　Llangedwin　and　Sycharth。

A　broad　and　excellent　road　led　along　the　valley　in　the　direction　in　
which　I　was　proceeding。

The　valley　was　beautiful　and　dotted　with　various　farm…houses；　and　
the　land　appeared　to　be　in　as　high　a　state　of　cultivation　as　the　
soil　of　my　own　Norfolk；　that　county　so　deservedly　celebrated　for　
its　agriculture。　　The　eastern　side　is　bounded　by　lofty　hills；　and　
towards　the　north　the　vale　is　crossed　by　three　rugged　elevations；　
the　middlemost　of　which；　called；　as　an　old　man　told　me；　Bryn　Dinas；　
terminates　to　the　west　in　an　exceedingly　high　and　picturesque　crag。

After　an　hour's　walking　I　overtook　two　people；　a　man　and　a　woman　
laden　with　baskets　which　hung　around　them　on　every　side。　　The　man　
was　a　young　fellow　of　about　eight…and…twenty；　with　a　round　face；　
fair　flaxen　hair；　and　rings　in　his　ears；　the　female　was　a　blooming　
buxom　lass　of　about　eighteen。　　After　giving　them　the　sele　of　the　
day　I　asked　them　if　they　were　English。

〃Aye；　aye；　master；〃　said　the　man；　〃we　are　English。〃

〃Where　do　you　come　from？〃　said　I。

〃From　Wrexham；〃　said　the　man。

〃I　thought　Wrexham　was　in　Wales；〃　said

〃If　it　be；〃　said　the　man；　〃the　people　are　not　Welsh；　a　man　is　not　a　
horse　because　he　happens　to　be　born　in　a　stable。〃

〃Is　that　young　woman　your　wife？〃　said　I。

〃Yes；〃　said　he；　〃after　a　fashion〃　…　and　then　he　leered　at　the　lass；　
and　she　leered　at　him。

〃Do　you　attend　any　place　of　worship？〃　said　I。

〃A　great　many；　master！〃

〃What　place　do　you　chiefly　attend？〃　said　I。

〃The　Chequers；　master！〃

〃Do　they　preach　the　best　sermons　there？〃　said　I。

〃No；　master！　but　they　sell　the　best　ale　there。〃

〃Do　you　worship　ale？〃　said　I。

〃Yes；　master；　I　worships　ale。〃

〃Anything　else？〃　said　I。

〃Yes；　master！　　I　and　my　mort　worships　something　besides　good　ale；　
don't　we；　Sue？〃　and　then　he　leered　at　the　mort；　who　leered　at　him；　
and　both　made　odd　motions　backwards　and　forwards；　causing　the　
baskets　which　hung　round　them　to　creak　and　rustle；　and　uttering　
loud　shouts　of　laughter；　which　roused　the　echoes　of　the　
neighbouring　hills。

〃Genuine　descendants；　no　doubt；〃　said　I　to　myself　as　I　walked　
briskly　on；　〃of　certain　of　the　old　heathen　Saxons　who　followed　Rag　
into　Wales　and　settled　down　about　the　house　which　he　built。　　
Really；　if　these　two　are　a　fair　specimen　of　the　Wrexham　population；　
my　friend　the　Scotch　policeman　was　not　much　out　when　he　said　that　
the　people　of　Wrexham　were　the　worst　people　in　Wales。〃



CHAPTER　LXVI



Sycharth　…　The　Kindly　Welcome　…　Happy　Couple　…　Sycharth　…　Recalling　
the　Dead　…　Ode　to　Sycharth。


I　WAS　now　at　the　northern　extremity　of　the　valley　near　a　great　
house　past　which　the　road　led　in　the　direction　of　the　north…east。　　
Seeing　a　man　employed　in　breaking　stones　I　inquired　the　way　to　
Sychnant。

〃You　must　turn　to　the　left；〃　said　he；　〃before　you　come　to　yon　great　
house；　follow　the　path　which　you　will　find　behind　it；　and　you　will　
soon　be　in　Sychnant。〃

〃And　to　whom　does　the　great　house　belong？〃

〃To　whom？　why；　to　Sir　Watkin。〃

〃Does　he　reside　there？〃

〃Not　often。　　He　has　plenty　of　other　houses；　but　he　sometimes　comes　
there　to　hunt。〃

〃What　is　the　place's　name？〃

〃Llan　Gedwin。〃

I　turned　to　the　left；　as　the　labourer　had　directed　me。　　The　path　
led　upward　behind　the　great　house　round　a　hill　thickly　planted　with　
trees。　　Following　it　I　at　length　found　myself　on　a　broad　road　on　
the　top　extending　east　and　west；　and　having　on　the　north　and　south　
beautiful　wooded　hills。　　I　followed　the　road　which　presently　began　
to　descend。　　On　reaching　level　ground　I　overtook　a　man　in　a　
waggoner's　frock；　of　whom　I　inquired　the　way　to　Sycharth。　　He　
pointed　westward　down　the　vale　to　what　appeared　to　be　a　collection　
of　houses；　near　a　singular…looking　monticle；　and　said；　〃That　is　
Sycharth。〃

We　walked　together　till　we　came　to　a　road　which　branched　off　on　the　
right　to　a　little　bridge。

〃That　is　your　way；〃　said　he；　and　pointing　to　a　large　building　
beyond　the　bridge；　towering　up　above　a　number　of　cottages；　he　said；　
〃that　is　the　factory　of　Sycharth；〃　he　then　left　me；　following　the　
high　road；　whilst　I　proceeded　towards　the　bridge；　which　I　crossed；　
and　coming　to　the　cottages　entered　one　on　the　right　hand　of　a　
remarkably　neat　appearance。

In　a　comfortable　kitchen　by　a　hearth　on　which　blazed　a　cheerful　
billet　sat　a　man　and　woman。　　Both　arose　when　I　entered：　　the　man　
was　tall；　about　fifty　years　of　age；　and　athletically　built；　he　was　
dressed　in　a　white　coat；　corduroy　breeches；　shoes；　and　grey　worsted　
stockings。　　The　woman　seemed　many　years　older　than　the　man；　she　was　
tall　also；　and　strongly　built；　and　dressed　in　the　ancient　female　
costume；　namely；　a　kind　of　round；　half　Spanish　hat；　long　blue　
woollen　kirtle　or　gown；　a　crimson　petticoat；　and　white　apron；　and　
broad；　stout　shoes　with　buckles。

〃Welcome；　stranger；〃　said　the　man；　after　looking　me　a　moment　or　two　
full　in　the　face。

〃Croesaw；　dyn　dieithr　…　welcome；　foreign　man；〃　said　the　woman；　
surveying　me　with　a　look　of　great　curiosity。

〃Won't　you　sit　down？〃　said　the　man；　handing　me　a　chair。

I　sat　down；　and　the　man　and　woman　resumed　their　seats。

〃I　suppose　you　come　on　business　connected　with　the　factory？〃　said　
the　man。

〃No；〃　said　I；　〃my　business　is　connected　with　Owen　Glendower。〃

〃With　Owen　Glendower？〃　said　the　man；　staring。

〃Yes；〃　said　I；　〃I　came　to　see　his　place。〃

〃You　will　not　see　much　of　his　house　now；〃　said　the　man　…　〃it　is　
down；　only　a　few　bricks　remain。〃

〃But　I　shall　see　the　place　where　his　house　stood；〃　said　I；　〃which　
is　all　I　expected　to　see。〃

〃Yes；　you　can　see　that。〃

〃What　does　the　dyn　dieithr　say？〃　said　the　woman　in　Welsh　with　an　
inquiring　look。

〃That　he　is　come　to　see　the　place　of　Owen　Glendower。〃

〃Ah！〃　said　the　woman　with　a　smile。

〃Is　that　good　lady　your　wife？〃　said　I。

〃She　is。〃

〃She　looks　much　older　than　yourself。〃

〃And　no　wonder。　　She　is　twenty…one　years　older。〃

〃How　old　are　you？〃

〃Fifty…three。〃

〃Dear　me；〃　said　I；　〃what　a　difference　in　your　ages。　　How　came　you　
to　marry？〃

〃She　was　a　widow　and　I　had　lost　my　wife。　　We　were　lone　in　the　
world；　so　we　thought　we　would　marry。〃

〃Do　you　live　happily　together？〃

〃Very。〃

〃Then　you　did　quite　right　to　marry。　　What　is　your　name？〃

〃David　Robert。〃

〃And　that　of　your　wife？〃

〃Gwen　Robert。〃

〃Does　she　speak　English？〃

〃She　speaks　some；　but　not　much。〃

〃Is　the　place　where　Owen　lived　far　from　here？〃

〃It　is　not。　　It　is　the　round　hill　a　little　way　above　the　factory。〃

〃Is　the　path　to　it　easy　to　find？〃

〃I　will　go　with　you；〃　said　the　man。　　〃I　work　at　the　factory；　but　I　
need　not　go　there　for　an　hour　at　least。〃

He　put　on　his　hat　and　bidding　me　follow　him　went　out。　　He　led　me　
over　a　gush　of　water　which　passing　under　the　factory　turns　the　
wheel；　thence　over　a　field　or　two　towards　a　house　at　the　foot　of　
the　mountain　where　he　said　the　steward　of　Sir　Watkin　lived；　of　whom　
it　would　be　as　well　to　apply　for　permission　to　ascend　the　hill；　as　
it　was　Sir　Watkin's　ground。　　The　steward　was　not　at　home；　his　wife　
was；　however；　and　she；　when　we　told　her　we　wished　to　go　to　the　top　
of　Owain　Glendower's　Hill；　gave　us　permission　with　a　smile。　　We　
thanked　her　and　proceeded　to　mount　the　hill　or　monticle　once　the　
residence　of　the　great　Welsh　chieftain；　whom　his　own　deeds　and　the　
pen　of　Shakespear　have　rendered　immortal。

Owen　Glendower's　hill　or　mount　at　Sycharth；　unlike　the　one　bearing　
his　name　on　the　banks　of　the　Dee；　is　not　an　artificial　hill；　but　
the　work　of　nature；　save　and　except　that　to　a　certain　extent　it　has　
been　modified　by　the　hand　of　man。　　It　is　somewhat　conical　and　
consists　of　two　steps　or　gradations；　where　two　fosses　scooped　out　
of　the　hill　go　round　it；　one　above　the　other；　the　lower　one　
embracing　considerably　the　most　space。　　Both　these　fosses　are　about　
six　feet　deep；　and　at　one　time　doubtless　were　bricked；　as　stout　
large；　red　bricks　are　yet　to　be　seen；　here　and　there；　in　their　
sides。　　The　top　of　the　mount　is　just　twenty…five　feet　across。　　When　
I　visited　it　it　was　covered　with　grass；　but　had　once　been　subjected　
to　the　plough　as　various　furrows　indicated。　　The　monticle　stands　
not　far　from　the　western　extremity　of　the　valley；　nearly　midway　
between　two　hills　which　confront　each　other　north　and　south；　the　
one　to　the　south　being　the　hill　which　I　had　descended；　and　the　
other　a　beautiful　wooded　height　which　is　called　in　the　parlance　of　
the　country　Llwyn　Sycharth　or　the　grove　of　Sycharth；　from　which　
comes　the　little　gush　of　water　which　I　had　crossed；　and　which　now　
turns　the　wheel　of　the　factory　and　once　turned　that　of　Owen　
Glendower's　mill；　and　filled　his　two　moats；　part　of　the　water　by　
some　mechanical　means　having　been　forced　up　the　eminence。　　On　the　
top　of　this　hill　or　monticle　in　a　timber　house　dwelt　the　great　
Welshman　Owen　Glendower；　with　his　wife；　a　comely；　kindly　woman；　and　
his　progeny；　consisting　of　stout　boys　and　blooming　girls；　and　
there；　though　wonderfully　cramped　for　want　of　room；　he　feasted　
bards　who　requited　his　hospitality　with　alliterative　odes　very　
difficult　to　compose；　and　which　at　the　present　day　only　a　few　book…
wo