wild wales-第92章

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attending　morning　service　at　the　little　Church　of　England　chapel　
which　lay　in　my　way。

The　mountain　of　Plynlimmon　to　which　I　was　bound　is　the　third　in　
Wales　for　altitude；　being　only　inferior　to　Snowdon　and　Cadair　
Idris。　　Its　proper　name　is　Pum；　or　Pump；　Lumon；　signifying　the　five　
points；　because　towards　the　upper　part　it　is　divided　into　five　
hills　or　points。　　Plynlimmon　is　a　celebrated　hill　on　many　accounts。　　
It　has　been　the　scene　of　many　remarkable　events。　　In　the　tenth　
century　a　dreadful　battle　was　fought　on　one　of　its　spurs　between　
the　Danes　and　the　Welsh；　in　which　the　former　sustained　a　bloody　
overthrow；　and　in　1401　a　conflict　took　place　in　one　of　its　valleys　
between　the　Welsh；　under　Glendower；　and　the　Flemings　of　
Pembrokeshire；　who；　exasperated　at　having　their　homesteads　
plundered　and　burned　by　the　chieftain　who　was　the　mortal　enemy　of　
their　race；　assembled　in　considerable　numbers　and　drove　Glendower　
and　his　forces　before　them　to　Plynlimmon；　where；　the　Welshmen　
standing　at　bay；　a　contest　ensued；　in　which；　though　eventually　
worsted；　the　Flemings　were　at　one　time　all　but　victorious。　　What；　
however；　has　more　than　anything　else　contributed　to　the　celebrity　
of　the　hill　is　the　circumstance　of　its　giving　birth　to　three　
rivers；　the　first　of　which；　the　Severn；　is　the　principal　stream　in　
Britain；　the　second；　the　Wye；　the　most　lovely　river；　probably；　
which　the　world　can　boast　of；　and　the　third；　the　Rheidol；　entitled　
to　high　honour　from　its　boldness　and　impetuosity；　and　the　
remarkable　banks　between　which　it　flows　in　its　very　short　course；　
for　there　are　scarcely　twenty　miles　between　the　ffynnon　or　source　
of　the　Rheidol　and　the　aber　or　place　where　it　disembogues　itself　
into　the　sea。

I　started　about　ten　o'clock　on　my　expedition；　after　making；　of　
course；　a　very　hearty　breakfast。　　Scarcely　had　I　crossed　the　
Devil's　Bridge　when　a　shower　of　hail　and　rain　came　on。　　As；　
however；　it　came　down　nearly　perpendicularly；　I　put　up　my　umbrella　
and　laughed。　　The　shower　pelted　away　till　I　had　nearly　reached　
Spytty　Cynwyl；　when　it　suddenly　left　off　and　the　day　became　
tolerably　fine。　　On　arriving　at　the　Spytty；　I　was　sorry　to　find　
that　there　would　be　no　service　till　three　in　the　afternoon。　　As　
waiting　till　that　time　was　out　of　the　question；　I　pushed　forward　on　
my　expedition。　　Leaving　Pont　Erwyd　at　some　distance　on　my　left；　I　
went　duly　north　till　I　came　to　a　place　amongst　hills　where　the　road　
was　crossed　by　an　angry…looking　rivulet；　the　same；　I　believe　which　
enters　the　Rheidol　near　Pont　Erwyd；　and　which　is　called　the　Castle　
River。　　I　was　just　going　to　pull　off　my　boots　and　stockings　in　
order　to　wade　through；　when　I　perceived　a　pole　and　a　rail　laid　over　
the　stream　at　little　distance　above　where　I　was。　　This　rustic　
bridge　enabled　me　to　cross　without　running　the　danger　of　getting　a　
regular　sousing；　for　these　mountain　streams；　even　when　not　reaching　
so　high　as　the　knee；　occasionally　sweep　the　wader　off　his　legs；　as　
I　know　by　my　own　experience。　　From　a　lad　whom　I　presently　met　I　
learned　that　the　place　where　I　crossed　the　water　was　called　Troed　
rhiw　goch；　or　the　Foot　of　the　Red　Slope。

About　twenty　minutes'　walk　from　hence　brought　me　to　Castell　
Dyffryn；　an　inn　about　six　miles　distant　from　the　Devil's　Bridge；　
and　situated　near　a　spur　of　the　Plynlimmon　range。　　Here　I　engaged　a　
man　to　show　me　the　sources　of　the　rivers　and　the　other　wonders　of　
the　mountain。　　He　was　a　tall；　athletic　fellow；　dressed　in　brown　
coat；　round　buff　hat；　corduroy　trousers；　linen　leggings　and　
highlows；　and；　though　a　Cumro；　had　much　more　the　appearance　of　a　
native　of　Tipperary　than　a　Welshman。　　He　was　a　kind　of　shepherd　to　
the　people　of　the　house；　who；　like　many　others　in　South　Wales；　
followed　farming　and　inn…keeping　at　the　same　time。



CHAPTER　LXXXVIII



The　Guide　…　The　Great　Plynlimmon　…　A　Dangerous　Path　…　Source　of　the　
Rheidol　…　Source　of　the　Severn　…　Pennillion　…　Old　Times　and　New　…　
The　Corpse　Candle　…　Supper。


LEAVING　the　inn；　my　guide　and　myself　began　to　ascend　a　steep　hill　
just　behind　it。　　When　we　were　about　halfway　up　I　asked　my　
companion；　who　spoke　very　fair　English；　why　the　place　was　called　
the　Castle。

〃Because；　sir；〃　said　he；　〃there　was　a　castle　here　in　the　old　time。〃

〃Whereabouts　was　it？〃　said　I。

〃Yonder；〃　said　the　man；　standing　still　and　pointing　to　the　right。　　
〃Don't　you　see　yonder　brown　spot　in　the　valley？　　There　the　castle　
stood。〃

〃But　are　there　no　remains　of　it？〃　said　I。　　〃I　can　see　nothing　but　a　
brown　spot。〃

〃There　are　none；　sir；　but　there　a　castle　once　stood；　and　from　it　
the　place　we　came　from　had　its　name；　and　likewise　the　river　that　
runs　down　to　Pont　Erwyd。〃

〃And　who　lived　there？〃　said　I。

〃I　don't　know；　sir；〃　said　the　man；　〃but　I　suppose　they　were　grand　
people；　or　they　would　not　have　lived　in　a　castle。〃

After　ascending　the　hill　and　passing　over　its　top；　we　went　down　its　
western　side　and　soon　came　to　a　black；　frightful　bog　between　two　
hills。　　Beyond　the　bog　and　at　some　distance　to　the　west　of　the　two　
hills　rose　a　brown　mountain；　not　abruptly；　but　gradually；　and　
looking　more　like　what　the　Welsh　call　a　rhiw；　or　slope；　than　a　
mynydd；　or　mountain。

〃That；　sir；〃　said　my　guide；　〃is　the　grand　Plynlimmon。〃

〃It　does　not　look　much　of　a　hill；〃　said　I。

〃We　are　on　very　high　ground；　sir；　or　it　would　look　much　higher。　　I　
question；　upon　the　whole；　whether　there　is　a　higher　hill　in　the　
world。　　God　bless　Pumlummon　Mawr！〃　said　he；　looking　with　reverence　
towards　the　hill。　　〃I　am　sure　I　have　a　right　to　say　so；　for　many　is　
the　good　crown　I　have　got　by　showing　gentlefolks　like　yourself　to　
the　top　of　him。〃

〃You　talk　of　Plynlimmon　Mawr；　or　the　great　Plynlymmon；〃　said　I；　
〃where　are　the　small　ones？〃

〃Yonder　they　are；〃　said　the　guide；　pointing　to　two　hills　towards　
the　north；　〃one　is　Plynlimmon　Canol；　and　the　other　Plynlimmon　Bach　
…　the　middle　and　the　small　Plynlimmon。〃

〃Pumlummon；〃　said　I；　〃means　five　summits。　　You　have　pointed　out　
only　three；　now；　where　are　the　other　two？〃

〃Those　two　hills　which　we　have　just　passed　make　up　the　five。　　
However；　I　will　tell　your　worship　that　there　is　a　sixth　summit。　　
Don't　you　see　that　small　hill　connected　with　the　big　Pumlummon；　on　
the　right？〃

〃I　see　it　very　clearly；〃　said　I。

〃Well；　your　worship；　that's　called　Bryn　y　Llo　…　the　Hill　of　the　
Calf；　or　the　Calf　Plynlimmon；　which　makes　the　sixth　summit。〃

〃Very　good；〃　said　I；　〃and　perfectly　satisfactory。　　Now　let　us　
ascend　the　Big　Pumlummon。〃

In　about　a　quarter　of　an　hour　we　reached　the　summit　of　the　hill；　
where　stood　a　large　carn　or　heap　of　stones。　　I　got　upon　the　top　and　
looked　around　me。

A　mountainous　wilderness　extended　on　every　side；　a　waste　of　russet　
coloured　hills；　with　here　and　there　a　black；　craggy　summit。　　No　
signs　of　life　or　cultivation　were　to　be　discovered；　and　the　eye　
might　search　in　vain　for　a　grove　or　even　a　single　tree。　　The　scene　
would　have　been　cheerless　in　the　extreme　had　not　a　bright　sun　
lighted　up　the　landscape。

〃This　does　not　seem　to　be　a　country　of　much　society；〃　said　I　to　my　
guide。

〃It　is　not；　sir。　　The　nearest　house　is　the　inn　we　came　from；　which　
is　now　three　miles　behind　us。　　Straight　before　you　there　is　not　one　
for　at　least　ten；　and　on　either　side　it　is　an　anialwch　to　a　vast　
distance。　　Plunlummon　is　not　a　sociable　country；　sir；　nothing　to　be　
found　in　it；　but　here　and　there　a　few　sheep　or　a　shepherd。〃

〃Now；〃　said　I；　descending　from　the　carn；　〃we　will　proceed　to　the　
sources　of　the　rivers。〃

〃The　ffynnon　of　the　Rheidol　is　not　far　off；〃　said　the　guide；　〃it　is　
just　below　the　hill。〃

We　descended　the　western　side　of　the　hill　for　some　way；　at　length；　
coming　to　a　very　craggy　and　precipitous　place；　my　guide　stopped；　
and　pointing　with　his　finger　into　the　valley　below；　said：…

〃There；　sir；　if　you　look　down　you　can　see　the　source　of　the　
Rheidol。〃

I　looked　down；　and　saw　far　below　what　appeared　to　be　part　of　a　
small　sheet　of　water。

〃And　that　is　the　source　of　the　Rheidol？〃　said　I。

〃Yes；　sir；〃　said　my　guide；　〃that　is　the　ffynnon　of　the　Rheidol。〃

〃Well；〃　said　I；　〃is　there　no　getting　to　it？〃

〃Oh　yes！　but　the　path；　sir；　as　you　see；　is　rather　steep　and　
dangerous。〃

〃Never　mind；〃　said　I。　　〃Let　us　try　it。〃

〃Isn't　seeing　the　fountain　sufficient　for　you；　sir？〃

〃By　no　means；〃　said　I。　　〃It　is　not　only　necessary　for　me　to　see　the　
sources　of　the　rivers；　but　to　drink　of　them；　in　order　that　in　after　
times　I　may　be　able　to　harangue　about　them　with　a　tone　of　
confidence　and　authority。〃

〃Then　follow　me；　sir；　but　please　to　take　care；　for　this　path　is　
more　fit　for　sheep　or　shepherds　than　gentlefolk。〃

And　a　truly　bad　path　I　found　it；　so　bad　indeed　that　before　I　had　
descended　twenty　yards　I　almost　repented　having　ventured。　　I　had　a　
capital　guide；　however；　who　went　before　and　told　me　where　to　plant　
my　steps。　　There　was　one　particularly　bad　part；　being　little　better　
than　a　sheer　precipice；　but　even　here　I　got　down　in　safety　with　the　
assistance　of　my　guide；　and　a　minute　afterwards　found　myself　at　the　
source　of　the　Rheidol。

The　source　of　the　Rheidol　is　a　small　beautiful　lake；　about　a　
quarter　of　a　mile　in　length。　　It　is　overhung　on　the　east　and　north　
by　frightful　crags；　from　which　it　is　fed　by　a　number　of　small　
rills。　　The　water　is　of　the　deepest　blue；　and　of　very　considerable　
depth。　　The　banks；　except　to　the　north　and　east；　slope　gently　down；　
and　are　clad　with　soft　and　beautiful　moss。　　The　river；　of　which　it　
is　the　head；　emerges　at　the　south…western　side；　and　brawls　away　in　
the　shape　of　a　considerable　brook；　amidst　moss；　and　rushes　down　a　
wild　glen　tending　to　the　south。　　To　the　west　the　prospect　is　
bounded；　at　a　slight　distance；　by　high；　swelling　ground。　　If　few　
rivers　have　a　more　wild　and　wondrous　channel　than　the　Rheidol；　
fewer　still　have　a　more　beautiful　and　romantic　source。

After　kneeling　down　and　drinking　freely　of　the　lake　I　said：

〃Now；　where　are　we　to　go　to　next？〃

〃The　nearest　ffynnon　to　that　of　the　Rheidol；　sir；　is　the　ffynnon　of　
the　Severn。〃

〃Very　well；〃　said　I；　〃let　us　now　go　and　see　the　ffynnon　of　the　
Severn！〃

I　followed　my　guide　over　a　hill　to　the　north…west　into　a　valley；　at　
the　farther　end　of　which　I　saw　a　brook　streaming　apparently　to　the　
south；　where　was　an　outlet。

〃That　brook；〃　said　the　guide；　〃is　the　young　Severn。〃　　The　brook　
came　from　round　the　side　of　a　very　lofty　rock；　singularly　
variegated；　black　and　white；　the　northern　summit　presenting　
something　of　the　appearance　of　the　head　of　a　horse。　　Passing　round　
this　crag　we　came　to　a　fountain　surrounded　with　rushes；　out　of　
which　the　brook；　now　exceedingly　small；　came　murmuring。

〃The　crag　above；〃　said　my　guide；　〃is　called　Crag　y　Cefyl；　or　the　
Rock　of　the　Horse；　and　this　spring　at　its　foot　is　generally　called　
the　ffynnon　of　the　Hafren。　　However；　drink　not　of　it；　master；　for　
the　ffynnon　of　the　Hafren　is　higher　up　the　nant。　　Follow　me；　and　I　
will　presently　show　you　the　real　ffynnon　of　the　Hafren。〃

I　followed　him　up　a　narrow　and　very　steep　dingle。　　Presently　we　
came　to　some　beautiful　little　pools　of　water　in　the　turf；　which　was　
here　remarkably　green。

〃These　are　very　pretty