an old town by the sea(滨海古城)-第3章
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Property； and no Stamp！〃
The Stamp Act was to go into operation on the first day of November。
On the previous morning the 〃New Hampshire Gazette〃 appeared with a
deep black border and all the typographical emblems of affliction； for was
not Liberty dead？ At all events； the 〃Gazette〃 itself was as good as dead；
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since the printer could no longer publish it if he were to be handicapped by
a heavy tax。 〃The day was ushered in by the tolling of all the bells in town；
the vessels in the harbor had their colors hoisted half…mast high； about
three o'clock a funeral procession was formed； having a coffin with this
inscription； LIBERTY； AGED 145； STAMPT。 It moved from the state
house； with two unbraced drums； through the principal streets。 As it
passed the Parade； minute…guns were fired； at the place of interment a
speech was delivered on the occasion； stating the many advantages we had
received and the melancholy prospect before us； at the seeming departure
of our invaluable liberties。 But some sign of life appearing； Liberty was
not deposited in the grave； it was rescued by a number of her sons； the
motto changed to Liberty revived； and carried off in triumph。 The
detestable Act was buried in its stead； and the clods of the valley were laid
upon it； the bells changed their melancholy sound to a more joyful tone。〃
（1。 Annals of Portsmouth； by Nathaniel Adams； 1825。）
With this side glance at one of the curious humors of the time； we
resume our peregrinations。
Turning down a lane on your left； a few rods beyond Liberty Bridge；
you reach a spot known as the Point of Graves； chiefly interesting as
showing what a graveyard may come to if it last long enough。 In 1671
one Captain John Pickering； of whom we shall have more to say； ceded to
the town a piece of ground on this neck for burial purposes。 It is an odd…
shaped lot； comprising about half an acre； inclosed by a crumbling red
brick wall two or three feet high； with wood capping。 The place is
overgrown with thistles； rank grass； and fungi； the black slate headstones
have mostly fallen over； those that still make a pretense of standing slant
to every point of the compass； and look as if they were being blown this
way and that by a mysterious gale which leaves everything else untouched；
the mounds have sunk to the common level； and the old underground
tombs have collapsed。 Here and there the moss and weeds you can pick
out some name that shines in the history of the early settlement； hundreds
of the flower of the colony lie here； but the known and the unknown；
gentle and simple； mingle their dust on a perfect equality now。 The
marble that once bore a haughty coat of arms is as smooth as the humblest
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slate stone guiltless of heraldry。 The lion and the unicorn； wherever they
appear on some cracked slab； are very much tamed by time。 The once
fat…faced cherubs； with wing at either cheek； are the merest skeletons now。
Pride； pomp； grief； and remembrance are all at end。 No reverent feet
come here； no tears fall here； the old graveyard itself is dead！ A more
dismal； uncanny spot than this at twilight would be hard to find。 It is
noticed that when the boys pass it after nightfall； they always go by
whistling with a gayety that is perfectly hollow。
Let us get into some cheerfuler neighborhood！ III。 A STROLL
ABOUT TOWN
AS you leave the river front behind you； and pass 〃up town；〃 the
streets grow wider； and the architecture becomes more ambitiousstreets
fringed with beautiful old trees and lined with commodious private
dwellings； mostly square white houses； with spacious halls running
through the centre。 Previous to the Revolution； white paint was seldom
used on houses； and the diamond…shaped window pane was almost
universal。 Many of the residences stand back from the brick or flagstone
sidewalk； and have pretty gardens at the side or in the rear； made bright
with dahlias and sweet with cinnamon roses。 If you chance to live in a
town where the authorities cannot rest until they have destroyed every
precious tree within their blighting reach； you will be especially charmed
by the beauty of the streets of Portsmouth。 In some parts of the town；
when the chestnuts are in blossom； you would fancy yourself in a garden
in fairyland。 In spring； summer； and autumn the foliage is the glory of
the fair townher luxuriant green and golden treeses！ Nothing could seem
more like the work of enchantment than the spectacle which certain streets
in Portsmouth present in the midwinter after a heavy snowstorm。 You may
walk for miles under wonderful silvery arches formed by the overhanging
and interlaced boughs of the trees； festooned with a drapery even more
graceful and dazzling than springtime gives them。 The numerous elms
and maples which shade the principal thoroughfares are not the result of
chance； but the ample reward of the loving care that is taken to preserve
the trees。 There is a society in Portsmouth devoted to arboriculture。 It is
not unusual there for persons to leave legacies to be expended in setting
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out shade and ornamental trees along some favorite walk。 Richards
Avenue； a long； unbuilt thoroughfare leading from Middle Street to the
South Burying…Ground； perpetuates the name of a citizen who gave the
labor of his own hands to the beautifying of that windswept and barren
road the cemetery。 This fondness and care for trees seems to be a matter of
heredity。 So far back as 1660 the selectmen instituted a fine of five
shillings for the cutting of timber or any other wood from off the town
common； excepting under special conditions。
In the business section of the town trees are few。 The chief business
streets are Congress and Market。 Market Street is the stronghold of the
dry…goods shops。 There are seasons； I suppose； when these shops are
crowded； but I have never happened to be in Portsmouth at the time。 I
seldom pass through the narrow cobble…paved street without wondering
where the customers are that must keep all these flourishing little
establishments going。 Congress Streeta more elegant thoroughfare than
Marketis the Nevski Prospekt of Portsmouth。 Among the prominent
buildings is the Athenaeum； containing a reading…room and library。 From
the high roof of this building the stroller will do well to take a glance at
the surrounding country。 He will naturally turn seaward for the more
picturesque aspects。 If the day is clear； he will see the famous Isle of
Shoals； lying nine miles awayAppledore； Smutty…Nose； Star Island；
White Island； etc。； there are nine of them in all。 On Appledore is
Laighton's Hotel； and near it the summer cottage of Celia Thaxter； the poet
of the Isles。 On the northern end of Star Island is the quaint town of
Gosport； with a tiny stone church perched like a sea…gull on its highest
rock。 A mile southwest form Star Island lies White Island； on which is a
lighthouse。 Mrs。 Thaxter calls this the most picturesque of the group。
Perilous neighbors； O mariner！ in any but the serenest weather； these
wrinkled； scarred； are storm…smitten rocks； flanked by wicked sunken
ledges that grow white at the lip with rage when the great winds blow！
How peaceful it all looks off there； on the smooth emerald sea！ and
how softly the waves seem to break on yonder point where the unfinished
fort is！ That is the ancient town of Newcastle； to reach which from
Portsmouth you have to cross three bridges with the most enchanting
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scenery in New Hampshire lying on either hand。 At Newcastle the poet
Stedman has built for his summerings an enviable little stone chateaua
seashell into which I fancy the sirens creep to warm themselves during the
winter months。 So it is never without its singer。
Opposite Newcastle is Kittery Point； a romantic spot； where Sir
William Pepperell； the first American baronet； once lived； and where his
tomb now is； in his orchard across the road； a few hundred yards from the
〃goodly mansion〃 he built。 The knight's tomb and the old Pepperell House；
which has been somewhat curtailed of it fair proportions； are the objects of
frequent pilgrimages to Kittery Point。
From the elevation （the roof of the Athenaeun） the navy yard； the river
with its bridges and islands； the clustered gables of Kittery and Newcastle；
the illimitable ocean beyond make a picture worth climbing four or five
flights of stairs to gaze upon。 Glancing down on the town nestled in the
foliage； it seems like a town dropped by chance in the midst of a forest。
Among the prominent objects which lift themselves above the tree tops are
the belfries of the various churches； the white fa 鏰 de of the custom house；
and the mansard and chimneys of the Rockingham； the principal hotel。
The pilgrim will be surprised to find in Portsmouth one
