an old town by the sea(滨海古城)-第4章
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The pilgrim will be surprised to find in Portsmouth one of the most
completely appointed hotels in the United States。 The antiquarian may
lament the demolition of the old Bell Tavern； and think regretfully of the
good cheer once furnished the wayfarer by Master Stavers at the sign of
the Earl of Halifax； and by Master Stoodley at his inn on Daniel Street； but
the ordinary traveler will thank his stars； and confess that his lines have
fallen in pleasant places； when he finds himself among the frescoes of the
Rockingham。
Obliquely opposite the doorstep of the Athenaeumwe are supposed to
be on terra firma againstands the Old North Church； a substantial
wooden building； handsomely set on what is called The Parade； a large
open space formed by the junction of Congress； Market； Daniel； and
Pleasant streets。 Here in days innocent of water…works stood the town
pump； which on more than one occasion served as whipping…post。
The churches of Portsmouth are more remarkable for their number
than their architecture。 With the exception of the Stone Church they are
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constructed of wood or plain brick in the simplest style。 St。 John's
Church is the only one likely to attract the eye of a stranger。 It is finely
situated on the crest of Church Hill； overlooking the ever…beautiful river。
The present edifice was built in 1808 on the site of what was known as
Queen's Chapel； erected in 1732； and destroyed by fire December 24；
1806。 The chapel was named in honor of Queen Caroline； who furnished
the books for the altar and pulpit； the plate； and two solid mahogany chairs；
which are still in use in St。 John's。 Within the chancel rail is a curious
font of porphyry； taken by Colonel John Tufton Mason at the capture of
Senegal from the French in 1758； and presented to the Episcopal Society
on 1761。 The peculiarly sweet…toned bell which calls the parishioners of St。
John's together every Sabbath is； I believe； the same that formerly hung in
the belfry of the old Queen's Chapel。 If so； the bell has a history of its own。
It was brought from Louisburg at the time of the reduction of that place in
1745； and given to the church by the officers of the New Hampshire
troops。
The Old South Meeting…House is not to be passed without mention。 It
is among the most aged survivals of pre…revolutionary days。 Neither its
architecture not its age； however； is its chief warrant for our notice。 The
absurd number of windows in this battered old structure is what strikes the
passer…by。 The church was erected by subscription； and these closely set
large windows are due to Henry Sherburne； one of the wealthiest citizens
of the period； who agreed to pay for whatever glass was used。 If the
building could have been composed entirely of glass it would have been
done by the thrifty parishioners。
Portsmouth is rich in graveyardsthey seem to be a New England
specialtyancient and modern。 Among the old burial…places the one
attached to St。 John's Church is perhaps the most interesting。 It has not
been permitted to fall into ruin； like the old cemetery at the Point of
Graves。 When a headstone here topples over it is kindly lifted up and set
on its pins again； and encouraged to do its duty。 If it utterly refuses； and is
not shamming decrepitude； it has its face sponged； and is allowed to rest
and sun itself against the wall of the church with a row of other exempts。
The trees are kept pruned； the grass trimmed； and here and there is a
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rosebush drooping with a weight of pensive pale roses； as becomes a
rosebush in a churchyard。
The place has about it an indescribable soothing atmosphere of
respectability and comfort。 Here rest the remains of the principal and
loftiest in rank in their generation of the citizens of Portsmouth prior to the
Revolutionstanch； royalty…loving governors； counselors； and secretaries
of the Providence of New Hampshire； all snugly gathered under the
motherly wing of the Church of England。 It is almost impossible to walk
anywhere without stepping on a governor。 You grow haughty in spirit after
a while； and scorn to tread on anything less than one of His Majesty's
colonels or secretary under the Crown。 Here are the tombs of the
Atkinsons； the Jaffreys； the Sherburnes； the Sheafes； the Marshes； the
Mannings； the Gardners； and others of the quality。 All around you
underfoot are tumbled…in coffins； with here and there a rusty sword atop；
and faded escutcheons； and crumbling armorial devices。 You are moving
in the very best society。
This； however； is not the earliest cemetery in Portsmouth。 An hour's
walk from the Episcopal yard will bring you to the spot； already
mentioned； where the first house was built and the first grave made； at
Odiorne's Point。 The exact site of the Manor is not known； but it is
supposed to be a few rods north of an old well of still…flowing water； at
which the Tomsons and the Hiltons and their comrades slaked their thirst
more than two hundred and sixty years ago。 Oriorne's Point is owned by
Mr。 Eben L。 Odiorne； a lineal descendant of the worthy who held the
property in 1657。 Not far from the old spring is the resting…place of the
earliest pioneers。
〃This first cemetery of the white man in New Hampshire；〃 writes Mr。
Brewster； （1。 Mr。 Charles W。 Brewster； for nearly fifty years the editor of
the Portsmouth Journal； and the author of two volumes of local sketches to
which the writer of these pages here acknowledges his indebtedness。）
〃occupies a space of perhaps one hundred feet by ninety； and is well
walled in。 The western side is now used as a burial…place for the family；
but two thirds of it is filled with perhaps forty graves； indicated by rough
head and foot stones。 Who there rest no one now living knows。 But the
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same care is taken of their quiet beds as if they were of the proprietor's
own family。 In 1631 Mason sent over about eighty emigrants many of
whom died in a few years； and here they were probably buried。 Here too；
doubtless； rest the remains of several of those whose names stand
conspicuous in our early state records。〃
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IV。 A STROLL ABOUT TOWN
（continued）
WHEN Washington visited Portsmouth in 1789 he was not much
impressed by the architecture of the little town that had stood by him so
stoutly in the struggle for independence。 〃There are some good houses；〃
he writes； in a diary kept that year during a tour through Connecticut；
Massachusetts； and New Hampshire； 〃 among which Colonel Langdon's
may be esteemed the first； but in general they are indifferent； and almost
entirely of wood。 On wondering at this； as the country is full of stone and
good clay for bricks； I was told that on account of the fogs and damp they
deemed them wholesomer； and for that reason preferred wood buildings。〃
The house of Colonel Langdon； on Pleasant Street； is an excellent
sample of the solid and dignified abodes which our great…grandsires had
the sense to build。 The art of their construction seems to have been a lost
art these fifty years。 Here Governor John Langdon resided from 1782 until
the time of his death in 1819a period during which many an illustrious
man passed between those two white pillars that support the little balcony
over the front door； among the rest Louis Philippe and his brothers； the
Ducs de Montpensier and Beaujolais； and the Marquis de Chastellus； a
major…general in the French army； serving under the Count de
Rochambeau； whom he accompanied from France to the States in 1780。
The journal of the marquis contains this reference to his host： 〃After
dinner we went to drink tea with Mr。 Langdon。 He is a handsome man； and
of noble carriage； he has been a member of Congress； and is now one of
the first people of the country； his house is elegant and well furnished； and
the apartments admirably well wainscoted〃 （this reads like Mr。 Samuel
Pepys）； 〃and he has a good manuscript chart of the harbor of Portsmouth。
Mrs。 Langdon； his wife； is young； fair； and tolerably handsome； but I
conversed less with her than her husband； in whose favor I was prejudiced
from knowing that he had displayed great courage and patriotism at the
time of Burgoynes's expedition。〃
It was at the height of the French Revolution that the three sons of the
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Due d'Orleans were entertained at the Langdon mansion。 Years afterward；
when Louis Philippe was on the throne of France； he inquired of a
Portsmouth lady presented at his court if the mansion of ce brave
Gouverneur Langdon was still in existence。
The house stands back a decorous distance from the street； under the
shadows of some gigantic oaks or elms； and presents an imposing
appearance as you approach it over the tessellated marble walk。 A hundred
or two feet on either side of the gate； and abutting on the street； is a small
square building of brick； one story in heightprobably the
