the golden chersonese and the way thither-第2章

按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！


by　the　sea　to　the　east　by　the　China　Sea　and　the　Gulf　of　Siam；　and　to
the　south　and　west　by　the　Straits　of　Malacca　and　the　Bay　of　Bengal。　The
area　of　the　mainland　is　conjectured　to　be　the　same　as　that　of　Britain；
but　the　region　occupied　by　the　Malays　does　not　exceed　sixty…one
thousand　one　hundred　and　fifty　square　miles；　and　is　about　half　the　size
of　Java。

Its　configuration　is　not　very　well　known；　but　a　granitic　mountain
chain；　rising　in　Perak　to　ascertained　heights　of　eight　thousand　feet；
runs　down　its　whole　length　near　the　centre；　with　extensive　outlying
spurs；　and　alluvial　plains　on　both　sides　densely　covered　with　jungle；
as　are　also　the　mountains。　There　are　no　traces　of　volcanic　formation；
though　thermal　springs　exist　in　Malacca。　The　rivers　are　numerous；　but
with　one　exception　small；　and　are　seldom　navigable　beyond　the　reach　of
the　tides；　except　by　flat…bottomed　boats。　It　is　believed　that　there　are
scarcely　any　lakes。

The　general　formation　is　granitic；　overlaid　by　sandstone；　laterite　or
clay　ironstone；　and　to　the　north　by　limestone。　　Iron　ores　are　found
everywhere；　and　are　so　little　regarded　for　their　metallic　contents
that；　though　containing；　according　to　Mr。　Logan；　a　skillful　geologist；
sixty　percent　of　pure　metal；　they　are　used　in　Singapore　for
macadamizing　the　roads！　Gold　has　been　obtained　in　all　ages；　and
formerly　in　considerable　quantities；　but　the　annual　yield　does　not　now
exceed　nineteen　thousand　ounces。　The　vastest　tin　fields　in　the　world
are　found　in　the　western　Malay　States；　and　hitherto　the　produce　has
been　〃stream　tin〃　only；　the　metal　not　having　been　traced　to　its　veins
in　the　rock。

The　map；　the　result　of　recent　surveys　by　Mr。　Daly；　and　published　in
1882　by　the　Royal　Geographical　Society；　shows　that　there　is　a　vast
extent；　more　than　half　of　the　Malay　Peninsula；　unexplored。　Its　most
laborious　explorer　confesses　that　〃of　the　internal　government；
geography；　mineral　products；　and　geology　of　these　regions；　we　do　not
know　anything；〃　and；　he　adds；　that　〃even　in　this　nineteenth　century；　a
country　rich　in　its　resources；　and　important　through　its　contiguity　to
our　British　possessions；　is　still　a　closed　volume。〃　〃If　we　let　the
needle　in；　the　thread　is　sure　to　follow〃　（meaning　that　if　they　let　an
Englishman　pass　through　their　territories；　British　annexation　would　be
the　natural　sequence）；　was　the　reason　given　to　Mr。　Daly　for　turning　him
back　from　the　States　of　the　Negri　Sembilan。

The　climate　is　singularly　healthy　for　Europeans　as　well　as　natives；
although　both　hot　and　moist；　as　may　be　expected　from　being　so　close　to
the　equator。　Besides；　the　Peninsula　is　very　nearly　an　insular　region；
it　is　densely　covered　with　evergreen　forests；　and　few　parts　of　it　are
more　than　fifty　miles　from　the　sea。　There　are　no　diseases　of　climate
except　marsh　fevers；　which　assail　Europeans　if　they　camp　out　at　night
on　low；　swampy　grounds。

In　5　degrees　15'　N。；　about　the　latitude　of　the　northern　boundary　of
Perak；　at　the　sea…level　the　mean　annual　temperature　is　nearly　80
degrees；　with　a　range　of　20　degrees；　at　Malacca　in　2　degrees　14'　N。　it
is　80　degrees；　with　a　range　of　15　degrees；　and　at　Singapore；　in　lat。　1
degree　17'；　it　is　82　degrees；　with　a　range　of　24　degrees。　　Though　the
climate　is　undeniably　a　〃hot〃　one；　the　heat；　tempered　by　alternating
land　and　sea　breezes；　is　seldom　oppressive　except　just　before　rain；　and
the　thermometer　never　attains　anything　approaching　those　torrid
temperatures　which　are　registered　in　India；　Japan；　the　United　States；
and　other　parts　of　the　temperate　zones。

The　rainfall　is　not　excessive；　averaging　about　one　hundred　and　ten
inches　annually；　and　there　is　no　regular　rainy　season。　In　fact　it　rains
in　moderation　all　the　year　round。　　Three　days　seldom　pass　without
refreshing　showers；　and　if　there　are　ten　rainless　days　together；　a　rare
phenomenon；　people　begin　to　talk　of　〃the　drought。〃　Practically　the　year
is　divided　into　two　parts　by　the　〃monsoons。〃*　The　monsoon　is　not　a
storm；　as　many　people　suppose；　from　a　vague　association　of　the　word
〃typhoon；〃　but　a　steady　wind　blowing；　in　the　case　of　the　Malay
Peninsula；　for　six　months　from　the　north…east；　bringing　down　the
Chinamen　in　their　junks；　and　for　six　months　from　the　southwest；
bringing　traders　from　Arabia　and　India。　The　climate　is　the　pleasantest
during　the　north…east　monsoon；　which　lasts　from　October　to　April。　It　is
during　the　south…west　monsoon　that　the　heavier　rains；　accompanied　by
electrical　disturbances；　occur。　The　central　mountain　range　protects　the
Peninsula　alternately　from　both　monsoons；　the　high　Sumatran　mountains
protecting　its　west　side　from　the　south…west　winds。　The　east　side　is
exposed　for　six　months　to　a　modified　north…east　monsoon。　Everywhere
else　throughout　the　almost　changeless　year；　steadily　alternating　land
and　sea　breezes　with　gentle　variable　winds　and　calms　prevail；
interrupted　occasionally　on　the　west　coast　during　the　〃summer〃　by
squalls　from　the　south…west；　which　last　for　one　or　two　hours；　and　are
known　as　〃Sumatrans。〃　Hurricanes　and　earthquakes　are　unknown。　Drenching
dews　fall　on　clear　nights。　　
＇*This　word　is　recognized　as　a　corruption　by　Portuguese　and　British
tongues　of　the　Arabic　word　〃musim；〃　〃season。〃＇

The　Peninsula　is　a　gorgeous　tropic　land；　and；　with　its　bounteous
rainfall　and　sunshine；　brings　forth　many　of　the　most　highly　prized
productions　of　the　tropics；　with　some　that　are　peculiar　to　itself。　Its
botany　is　as　yet　very　imperfectly　known。　Some　of　its　forest　trees　are
very　valuable　as　timber；　and　others　produce　hard…veined　woods　which
take　a　high　polish。　Rattans；　Malacca　canes；　and　gutta　are　well　known　as
among　its　forest　products；　gutta；　with　its　extensive　economical　uses；
having　been　used　only　for　Malay　horsewhips　and　knife…handles　previous
to　1843。　The　wild　nutmeg　is　indigenous；　and　the　nutmeg　of　commerce　and
the　clove　have　been　introduced　and　thrive。　Pepper　and　some　other　spices
flourish；　and　the　soil　with　but　a　little　cultivation　produces　rice　wet
and　dry；　tapioca；　gambier；　sugar…cane；　coffee；　yams；　sweet　potatoes；
cocoa；　sago；　cotton；　tea；　cinchona；　india　rubber；　and　indigo。　Still　it
is　doubtful　whether　a　soil　can　be　called　fertile　which　is　incapable　of
producing　the　best　kinds　of　cereals。　European　vegetables　are　on　the
whole　a　dismal　failure。　Conservatism　in　diet　must　be　given　up　by
Europeans；　the　yam；　edible　arum；　and　sweet　potato　must　take　the　place
of　the　〃Irish　potato；〃　and　water…melons　and　cucumbers　that　of　our　peas；
beans；　artichokes；　cabbages；　and　broccoli。　The　Chinese　raise　coarse
radishes　and　lettuce；　and　possibly　the　higher　grounds　may　some　day　be
turned　into　market　gardens。　The　fruits；　however；　are　innumerable；　as
well　as　wholesome　and　delicious。　Among　them　the　durion　is　the　most
esteemed　by　the　natives；　and　the　mangosteen　by　Europeans。

The　fauna　of　the　Peninsula　is　most　remarkable　and　abundant；　indeed；
much　of　its　forest…covered　interior　is　inhabited　by　wild　beasts　alone；
and　gigantic　pachyderms；　looking　like　monsters　of　an　earlier　age；　roam
unmolested　over　vast　tracts　of　country。　Among　this　thick…skinned　family
are　the　elephant；　the　one…horned　rhinoceros；　the　Malayan　tapir；　and　the
wild　hog；　the　last　held　in　abomination　by　the　Malays；　but　constituting
the　chief　animal　food　of　some　of　the　wild　tribes。

A　small　bear　with　a　wistful　face　represents　the　Plantigrade　family。　The
Quadrumana　are　very　numerous。　There　are　nine　monkeys；　one；　if　not　two
apes；　and　a　lemur　or　sloth；　which　screens　its　eyes　from　the　light。

Of　the　Digitigrada　there　are　the　otter　or　water…dog；　the　musang　and
climbing　musang；　the　civet　cat；　the　royal　tiger；　the　spotted　black
tiger；　in　whose　glossy　raven…black　coat　the　characteristic　markings　are
seen　in　certain　lights；　the　tiger　cat；　the　leopard；　the　Java　cat；　and
four　or　five　others。　Many　of　these　feline　animals　abound。

Among　the　ruminants　are　four　species　of　deer；　two　smaller　than　a　hare；
and　one　as　large　as　an　elk；　a　wild　goat　similar　to　the　Sumatran
antelope；　the　domestic　goat；　a　mean　little　beast；　the　buffalo；　a　great；
nearly　hairless；　gray　or　pink　beast；　bigger　than　the　buffalo　of　China
and　India；　a　short…legged　domestic　ox；　and　two　wild　oxen　or　bisons；
which　are　rare。

The　bat　family　is　not　numerous。　The　vampire　flies　high；　in　great
flocks；　and　is　very　destructive　to　fruit。　This　frugiverous　bat；　known
popularly　as　the　〃flying　fox；〃　is　a　very　interesting…looking　animal；
and　is　actually　eaten　by　the　people　of　Ternate。　At　the　height　of　the
fruit　season；　thousands　of　these　creatures　cross　from　Sumatra　to　the
mainland；　a　distance　never　less　than　forty　miles。　Their　strength　of
wing　is　enormous。　I　saw　one　captured　in　the　steamer　Nevada；　forty…five
miles　from　the　Navigators；　with　wings　measuring；　when　extended；　nearly
five　feet　across。　　These　are　formed　of　a　jet　black　membrane；　and　have　a
highly　polished　claw　at　the　extremity　of　each。　The　feet　consist　of　five
polished　black　claws；　with　which　the　bat　hangs　on；　head　downward；　to
the　forest　trees。　His　body　is　about　twice　the　size　of　that　of　a　very
large　rat；　black　and　furry　underneath；　and　with　red　foxy　fur　on　the
head　and　neck。　He　has　a　pointed　face；　a　very　black　nose；　and　prominent
black　eyes；　with　a　remorseless　expression　in　them。　An　edible　bat　of
vagrant　habits　is　also　found。

Ponies　are　imported　from　Sumatra；　and　a　few　horses　from　Australia；　but
the　latter　do　not　thrive。

The　domestic　cat　always　looks　as　if　half　his　tail　had　been　taken　off　in
a　trap。　The　domestic　dog　is　the　Asiatic；　not　the　European　dog；　a　leggy；
ugly；　vagrant；　uncared…for　fellow；　furnishing　a　useful　simile　and
little　more。

Weasels；　squirrels；　polecats；　porcupines；　and　other　small　animals　exist
in　numbers；　and　the　mermaid；　of　the　genus　Halicore；　connects　the
inhabitants　of　the　land　and　water。　　This　Duyong；　described　as　a
creature　seven　or　eight　feet　long；　with　a　head　like　that　of　an　elephant
deprived　of　its　proboscis；　and　the　body　and　tail　of　a　fish；　frequents
the　Sumatran　and　Malayan　shores；　and　its　flesh　is　held　in　great
estimation　at　the　tables　of　sultans　and　rajahs。　Besides　these　（and　the
list　is　long　enough）　there　are　many　small　beasts。

The　reptiles　are　unhappily　very　numerous。　Crawfurd　mentions　forty
species　of　snakes；　including　the　python　and　the　cobra。　Alligators　in
great　numbers　infest　the　tidal　waters　of　the　rivers。　Iguanas　and
lizards　of　several　species；　marsh…frogs；　and　green　tree…frogs　abound。
The　land…leeches　are　a　great　pest。　Scorpions　and　centipedes　are
abundant。　　There　are　many　varieties　of　ants；　among　them　a　formidable…
looking　black　creature　nearly　two　inches　long；　a　large　red　ant；　whose
bite　is　like　a　bad　pinch　from　forceps；　and　which　is　the　chief　source　of
formic　acid；　and　the　termes；　or　white　ant；　most　destructive　to　timber。

The　carpenter　beetle　is　also　found；　an　industrious　insect；　which
riddles　the　timber　of　any　building　in　which　he　effects　a　lodgment；　and
is　as　destructive　as　dry　rot。　There　are　bees　and　wasps；　and　hornets　of
large　size；　and　a　much…dreaded　insect；　possibly　not　yet　classified；
said　to　be　peculiar　to　the　Peninsula；　which　inflicts　so　severe　a　wound
as　to　make　a　strong　man　utter　a　cry　of　agony。　But　of　all　the　pests　the
mosquitoes　are　the　worst。　A　resident　may　spend　some　time　in　the