the golden chersonese and the way thither-第25章

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work　to　the　winds。　Even　the　official　seals　of　the　mandarins　are
formally　and　with　much　rejoicing　sealed　up　and　laid　aside　for　one
month。　On　the　20th　day　of　the　12th　month　houses　and　temples　are
thoroughly　washed　and　cleaned；　rich　and　poor　decorate　with
cloth…of…gold；　silk　embroideries；　artificial　and　real　flowers；　banners；
scrolls；　lucky　characters；　illuminated　strips　of　paper；　and　bunches　of
gilt…paper　flowers；　and　even　the　poorest　coolie　contrives　to　greet　the
festival　with　some　natural　blossom。　　There　is　no　rest　either　by　night
or　day；　joss…sticks　burn　incessantly；　and　lamps　before　the　ancestral
tablets；　gongs　are　beaten；　gingalls　fire　incessantly；　and　great
crackers　like　cartridges　fastened　together　in　rows　are　let　off　at
intervals　before　every　door　to　frighten　away　evil　spirits；　there　are
family　banquets　of　wearisome　length；　feasts　to　the　household　gods；
offerings　in　the　temples；　processions　in　the　street　by　torch　and
lantern　light；　presents　are　given　to　the　living；　and　offerings　to　the
dead；　the　poor　are　feasted；　and　the　general　din　is　heightened　by
messengers　perambulating　the　streets　with　gongs；　calling　them　to　the
different　banquets。　When　the　fortnight　of　rejoicing　is　over　its　signs
are　removed；　and　after　the　outbreak　of　extravagant　expenditure　the
Chinese　return　to　their　quiet；　industrious　habits　and　frugal　ways。

Just　as　this　brilliant　display　left　the　room；　a　figure　in　richer
coloring　of　skin　appearedBabu；　the　head　servant；　in　his　beautiful
Hadji　dress。　He　wore　white　full　trousers；　drawn　in　tightly　at　the
ankles　over　black　shoes；　but　very　little　of　these　trousers　showed　below
a　long；　fine；　linen　tunic　of　spotless　white；　with　a　girdle　of　orange
silk。　Over　this　was　a　short　jacket　of　rich　green　silk；　embroidered　in
front　with　green　of　the　same　color；　and　over　all　a　pure　white　robe
falling　from　the　shoulders。　The　turban　was　a　Mecca　turban　made　of　many
yards　of　soft　white　silk；　embroidered　in　white　silk。　It　was　difficult
to　believe　that　this　gorgeous　Mussulman；　in　the　odor　of　double
sanctity；　with　his　scornful　face　and　superb　air；　could　so　far　demean
himself　as　to　wait　on　〃dogs　of　infidels〃　at　dinner；　or　appear　in　my
room　at　the　Stadthaus；　with　matutinal　tea　and　bananas！

This　magnificence　heralded　the　Datu　Klana；　Syed　Abdulrahman；　the
reigning　prince　of　the　native　State　of　Sungei　Ujong；　his　principal
wife；　and　his　favorite　daughter；　a　girl　of　twelve。　It　has　been　decided
that　I　am　to　go　to　Sungei　Ujong；　and　that　I　am　to　be　escorted　by　Mr。
Hayward；　the　superintendent　of　police；　but；　unfortunately；　I　am　to　go
up　in　the　Datu　Klana's　absence；　and　one　object　of　his　visit　was　to
express　his　regret。　This　prince　has　been　faithful　to　British　interests；
and　is　on　most　friendly　terms　with　the　resident；　Captain　Murray；　and
the　Governor　of　Malacca。　During　his　visit　Babu　interpreted；　but　Miss
Shaw；　who　understands　Malay；　said　that；　instead　of　interpreting
faithfully；　he　was　making　enormous　demands　on　my　behalf！　At　all　events；
Syed　Abdulrahman；　with　truly　exaggerated　Oriental　politeness；　presented
me　with　the　key　of　his　house　in　the　interior。

This　prince　is　regarded　by　British　officials　as　an　enlightened　ruler；
though　he　is　a　rigid　Mussulman。　His　dress　looked　remarkably　plain
beside　that　of　the　splendid　Babu。　He　wore　a　Malay　bandana　handkerchief
round　his　head；　knotted　into　a　peak；　a　rich　brocade　baju　or　short
jacket；　a　dark　Manilla　sarong；　trousers　of　Mandarin　satin　striped　with
red；　a　girdle　clasp　set　with　large　diamonds；　and　sandals　with　jeweled
cloth…of…gold　straps。　His　wife；　though　elderly　and　decidedly　plain
looking；　has　a　very　pleasing　expression。　She　wore　a　black　veil　over　her
head；　and　her　kabaya；　or　upper　garment；　was　fastened　with　three　diamond
clasps。　The　bright　little　daughter　wore　a　green　veil　with　gold　stars
upon　it　over　her　head；　and　ornaments　of　rich；　red　gold　elaborately
worked。　The　Datu　Klana　apologized　for　the　extreme　plainness　of　their
dress　by　saying　that　they　had　only　just　arrived；　and　that　they　had
called　before　changing　their　traveling　clothes。　When　they　departed　the
two　ladies　threw　soft　silk　shawls　over　their　heads；　and　held　them　so　as
to　cover　their　faces　except　their　eyes。

There　are　now　sixty…seven　thousand　Malays　in　the　British　territory　of
Malacca；　and　the　number　is　continually　increased　by　fugitives　from　the
system　of　debt…slavery　which　prevails　in　some　of　the　adjacent　States；
and　by　immigration　from　the　same　States　of　Malays　who　prefer　the
security　which　British　rule　affords。

＇The　police　force　is　Malay；　and　it　seems　as　if　the　Malays　had　a　special
aptitude　for　this　semi…military　service；　for　they　not　only　form　the
well…drilled　protective　forces　of　Malacca；　Sungei　Ujong；　and　Selangor；
but　that　fine　body　of　police　in　Ceylon　of　which　Mr。　George　Campbell　has
so　much　reason　to　be　proud。　Otherwise　very　few　of　them　enter　British
employment；　greatly　preferring　the　easy；　independent　life　of　their
forest　kampongs。＇

The　commercial　decay　of　Malacca　is　a　very　interesting　fact。*　Formerly
fifty　merchantmen　were　frequently　lying　in　its　roads　at　one　time。　Here
the　Portuguese　fleet　lay　which　escorted　Xavier　from　Goa；　and　who　can
say　how　many　galleons　freighted　with　the　red　gold　of　Ophir　floated　on
these　quiet　waters！　Now；　Chinese　junks；　Malay　prahus；　a　few　Chinese
steamers；　steam…launches　from　the　native　States；　and　two　steamers　which
call　in　passing；　make　up　its　trade。　There　is　neither　newspaper；　banker；
hotel；　nor　resident　English　merchant；　The　half…caste　descendants　of　the
Portuguese　are；　generally　speaking；　indolent；　degraded　with　the
degradation　that　is　born　of　indolence；　and　proud。　The　Malays　dream　away
their　lives　in　the　jungle；　and　the　Chinese；　who　number　twenty　thousand；
are　really　the　ruling　population。　　
＇*Linscholt；　two　hundred　and　seventy　years　ago；　writes：〃This　place　is
the　market　of　all　India；　of　China；　and　the　Moluccas；　and　of　other
islands　round　about；　from　all　which　places；　as　well　as　from　Banda；　Java；
Sumatra；　Siam；　Pegu；　Bengal；　Coromandil；　and　India；　arrive　ships　which
come　and　go　incessantly　charged　with　an　infinity　of　merchandises。〃＇

The　former　greatness　of　Malacca　haunts　one　at　all　times。　　The　romantic
exploits　of　Albuquerque；　who　conquered　it　in　1511；　apostrophized　in　the
Lusiad

　　　　　〃Not　eastward　far　though　fair　Malacca　lie；
　　　　　Her　groves　embosomed　in　the　morning　sky；
　　　　　Though　with　her　amorous　sons　the　valiant　line
　　　　　Of　Java's　isle　in　battle　rank　combine；
　　　　　Though　poisoned　shafts　their　ponderous　quivers　store；
　　　　　Malacca's　spicy　groves　and　golden　ore；
　　　　　Great　Albuquerque；　thy　dauntless　toils　shall　crown；〃

live　again；　though　my　sober　judgment　is　that　Albuquerque　and　most　of
his　Portuguese　successors　were　little　better　than　buccaneers。

I　like　better　to　think　of　Francis　Xavier　passing　through　the
thoroughfares　of　what　was　then　the　greatest　commercial　city　of　the
East；　ringing　his　bell；　with　the　solemn　cry；　〃Pray　for　those　who　are　in
a　state　of　mortal　sin。〃　For　among　the　〃Jews；　Turks；　infidels；　and
heretics〃　who　then　thronged　its　busy　streets；　there　were　no　worse
livers　than　the　roistering　soldiers　who　had　followed　Albuquerque。
Tradition　among　the　present　Portuguese　residents　says　that　coarse　words
and　deeds　disappeared　from　the　thoroughfares　under　his　holy　influence；
and　that　little　altars　were　set　up　in　public　places；　round　which　the
children　sang　hymns　to　Jesus　Christ；　while　the　passers…by　crossed
themselves　and　bowed　their　heads　reverently。　Now；　the　cathedral　which
crowns　the　hill；　roofless　and　ruinous；　is　only　imposing　from　a
distance；　and　a　part　of　it　is　used　for　the　storage　of　marine　or
lighthouse　stores　under　our　prosaic　and　irreverent　rule。　Xavier
preached　frequently　in　it　and　loved　it　well；　yet　the　walls　are
overgrown　with　parasites；　and　the　floor；　under　which　many　prelates　and
priests　lie；　is　hideous　with　matted　weeds；　which　are　the　haunt　of
snakes　and　lizards。　Thus；　in　the　city　which　was　so　dear　to　Xavier　that
he　desired　to　return　to　it　to　die　（and　actually　did　die　on　his　way
thither）；　the　only　memento　of　him　is　the　dishonored　ruin　of　the
splendid　church　in　which　his　body　was　buried；　with　all　the　population
of　Malacca　following　it　from　the　yellow　strand　up　the　grass…crowned
hill；　bearing　tapers。　This　wretched　ruin　is　a　contrast　to　the　splendid
mausoleum　at　Goa；　where　his　bones　now　lie；　worthily　guarded；　in　coffins
of　silver　and　gold。

If　the　Portuguese　were　little　better　than　buccaneers；　the　Dutch；　who
drove　them　out；　were　little　better　than　huckstersmean；　mercenary
traders；　without　redeeming　qualities；　content　to　suck　the　blood　of
their　provinces　and　give　nothing　in　return。　I　should　think　that　the
colony　is　glad　to　be　finally　rid　of　them。　The　English　took　possession
of　it　in　1795；　but　restored　it　to　the　Dutch　in　1818；　regaining　it　again
by　treaty　in　1824；　giving　Bencoolen；　in　Sumatra；　in　exchange　for　it；
stipulating　at　the　same　time　that　the　Dutch　were　not　to　meddle　with
Malayan　affairs；　or　have　any　settlement　on　the　Malay　Peninsula。　The
ruined　cathedral　of　Notre　Dame　del　Monte　is　a　far　more　interesting
object　than　the　dull；　bald；　commonplace；　flat…faced；　prosaic；　Dutch
meeting…house；　albeit　the　latter　is　in　excellent　repair。　Even　this
Stadthaus；　with　its　stately　solitudes；　smells　of　trade；　and　suggests
corpulent　burgomasters　and　prim　burgomasters'　wives　in　wooden　hoops　and
stiff　brocades。　The　influence　of　Holland　has　altogether　vanished；　as　is
fitting；　for　she　cared　only　for　nutmegs；　sago；　tapioca；　tin　and　pepper。

The　variety　of　races　here　produces　a　ludicrous　effect　sometimes。　In　the
Stadthaus　one　never　knows　who　is　to　appearwhether　Malay；　Portuguese；
Chinaman；　or　Madrassee。　　Yesterday　morning；　at　six；　the　Chinaman　who
usually　〃does〃　my　room；　glided　in；　murmuring　something　unintelligible；
and　on　my　not　understanding　him；　brought　in　a　Portuguese　interpreter。
At　seven；　came　in　the　Madrassee；　Babu；　with　a　cluster　of　bananas；　and
after　him；　two　Malays；　in　red　sarongs；　who　brushed　and　dusted　all　my
clothes　as　slowly　as　they　couldmen　of　four　races　in　attendance　before
I　was　up　in　the　morning！　This　Chinese　attendant；　besides　being　a　common
coolie　in　a　brown　cotton　shirt　over　a　brown　cotton　pair　of　trousers；　is
not　a　good　specimen　of　his　class；　and　is　a　great　nuisance　to　me。　My
doors　do　not　bolt　properly；　and　he　appears　in　the　morning　while　I　am　in
my　holoku；　writing；　and　slowly　makes　the　bed　and　kills　mosquitoes；　then
takes　one　gown　after　another　from　the　rail；　and　stares　at　me　till　I
point　to　the　one　I　am　going　to　wear；　which　he　holds　out　in　his　hands；
and　though　I　point　to　the　door；　and　say　〃Go！〃　with　much　emphasis；　I
never　get　rid　of　him；　and　have　to　glide　from　my　holoku　into　my　gown
with　a　most　unwilling　dexterity。

Two　days　ago　Captain　Shaw　declared　that　〃pluck　should　have　its　reward；〃
and　that　I　should　have　facilities　for　going　to　Sungei　Ujong。　Yesterday；
he　asked　me　to　take　charge　of　his　two　treasured　daughters。　Then　Babu
said；　〃If　young　ladies　go；　me　go；〃　and　we　are　to　travel　under　the
efficient　protection　of　Mr。　Hayward；　the　superintendent　of　police。
This　expedition　excites　great　interest　in　the　little　Malacca　world。
This　native　State　is　regarded　as　〃parts　unknown；〃　the　Governor　has
never　visited　it