the golden chersonese and the way thither-第30章

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the　thatch　continually；　and　as　one　obstacle　was　safely　passed；　the
rapidity　of　the　current　invariably　canted　us　close　on　another；　but　the
vigilant　skill　of　the　boatmen　averted　the　slightest　accident。　〃Jaga！
Jaga！〃caution！　caution！was　the　constant　cry。　The　most　unpleasant
sensations　were　produced　by　the　constant　ripping　and　tearing　sounds　as
we　passed　under　the　low　tunnel　of　vegetation；　and　by　the　perpetual
bumping　against　timber。

The　Misses　Shaw　passed　an　uneasy　night。　The　whisky　had　cured　the
younger　one　of　her　severe　sick　headache；　and　she　was　the　prey　of　many
terrors。　They　thought　that　the　boat　would　be　ripped　up；　that　the　roof
would　be　taken　off；　that　a　tree　would　fall　and　crush　us；　that　the
boatmen；　when　they　fell　overboard；　as　they　often　did；　would　be　eaten　by
alligators；　that　they　would　see　glaring　eyeballs　whenever　the　cry
〃Rimou！〃a　tiger！was　raised　from　the　bow；　and　they　continually　awoke
me　with　news　of　something　that　was　happening　or　about　to　happen；　and
were　drolly　indignant　because　they　could　not　sleep；　while　I；　a　blasee
old　campaigner；　slept　whenever　they　would　let　me。　Day　broke　in　a　heavy
mist；　which　disappeared　magically　at　sunrise。　As　the　great　sun　wheeled
rapidly　above　the　horizon　and　blazed　upon　us　with　merciless　fierceness；
all　at　once　the　jungle　became　vociferous。　Loudly　clattered　the　busy
cicada；　its　simultaneous　din；　like　a　concentration　of　the　noise　of　all
the　looms　in　the　world；　suddenly　breaking　off　into　a　simultaneous
silence；　the　noisy　insect　world　chirped；　cheeped；　buzzed；　whistled；
birds　hallooed；　hooted；　whooped；　screeched；　apes　in　a　loud　and　not
inharmonious　chorus　greeted　the　sun；　and　monkeys　chattered；　yelled；
hooted；　quarreled；　and　spluttered。　The　noise　was　tremendous。　But　the
forest　was　absolutely　still；　except　when　some　heavy　fruit；　over　ripe；
fell　into　the　river　with　a　splash。　The　trees　above　us　were　literally
alive　with　monkeys；　and　the　curiosity　of　some　of　them　about　us　was　so
great　that　they　came　down　on　〃monkey　ropes〃　and　branches　for　the　fun　of
touching　the　roof　of　the　boat　with　their　hands　while　they　hung　by　their
tails。　　They　were　all　full　of　frolic　and　mischief。

Then　we　had　a　slim　repast　of　soda　water　and　bananas；　the　Hadji
worshiped　with　his　face　toward　Mecca；　and　the　boatmen　prepared　an
elaborate　curry　for　themselves；　with　salt　fish　for　its　basis；　and　for
its　tastiest　condiment　blachanga　Malay　preparation　much　relished　by
European　lovers　of　durion　and　decomposed　cheese。　It　is　made　by
trampling　a　mass　of　putrefying　prawns　and　shrimps　into　a　paste　with
bare　feet。　This　is　seasoned　with　salt。　The　smell　is　penetrating　and
lingering。　Our　men　made　the　boat　fast；　rinsed　their　mouths；　washed
their　hands；　and　ate；　using　their　fingers　instead　of　chopsticks。　Poor
fellows！　they　had　done　twelve　hours　of　splendid　work。

Then　one　of　them　prepared　the　betel…nut　for　the　rest。　I　think　I　have
not　yet　alluded　to　this　abominable　practice　of　betel…nut　chewing；　which
is　universal　among　the　inhabitants　of　the　Malay　Peninsula；　the
betel…nut　being　as　essential　to　a　Malay　as　tobacco　is　to　a　Japanese；　or
opium　to　the　confirmed　Chinese　opium…smoker。　It　is　a　revolting　habit；
and　if　a　person　speaks　to　you　while　he　is　chewing　his　〃quid〃　of　betel；
his　mouth　looks　as　if　it　were　full　of　blood。　People　say　that　the
craving　for　stimulants　is　created　by　our　raw；　damp　climate；　but　it　is
as　strong　here；　at　the　equator；　in　this　sunny；　balmy　air。　I　have　not
yet　come　across　a　region　in　which　men；　weary　in　body　or　spirit；　are　not
seeking　to　stimulate　or　stupefy　themselves。　The　Malay　men　and　women
being　prohibited　by　the　Koran　from　using　alcohol；　find　the　needed
fillip　in　this　nut；　but　it　needs　preparation　before　it　suits　their
palates。

The　betel…nut　is　the　fruit　of　the　lovely；　graceful；　slender…shafted
areca　palm。　This　tree　at　six　years　old　begins　to　bear　about　one　hundred
nuts　a　year；　which　grow　in　clusters；　each　nut　being　about　the　size　of　a
nutmeg；　and　covered　with　a　yellow；　fibrous　husk。　The　requisites　for
chewing　are：　a　small　piece　of　areca　nut；　a　leaf　of　the　Sirih　or　betel
pepper；　a　little　moistened　lime；　and；　if　you　wish　to　be　very　luxurious；
a　paste　made　of　spices。　The　Sirih　leaf　was　smeared　with　a　little　fine
lime　taken　from　a　brass　box；　on　this　was　laid　a　little；　brownish　paste；
on　this；　a　bit　of　the　nut；　the　leaf　was　then　folded　neatly　round　its
contents；　and　the　men　began　to　chew；　and　to　spitthe　inevitable
consequence。　The　practice　stains　the　teeth　black。　I　tasted　the　nut；　and
found　it　pungent　and　astringent；　not　tempting。　The　Malays　think　you
look　like　a　beast　if　you　have　white　teeth。

The　heat　was　exhausting；　the　mercury　87　degrees　in　the　shade　as　early
as　8：30；　and　we　all　suffered；　more　or　less；　from　it　in　our　cramped
position　and　enforced　inactivity。　At　nine；　having　been　fourteen　hours
on　the　river；　we　came　on　a　small　cleared　space；　from　which　a　bronzed；
frank…faced　man；　dressed　in　white　linen；　hallooed　to　us　jovially；　and
we　were　soon　warmly　greeted　by　Captain　Murray；　the　British　Resident　in
the　State　of　Sungei　Ujong。　On　seeing　him；　we　hoped　to　find　a　gharrie
and　to　get　some　breakfast；　and　he　helped　us　on　shore；　as　if　our　hopes
were　to　be　realized；　and　dragged　us　under　the　broiling　sun　to　a　long
shed；　the　quarters　of　a　hundred　Chinese　coolies；　who　are　making　a　road
through　the　jungle。　We　sat　down　on　one　of　the　long　matted　platforms；
which　serve　them　for　beds；　and　talked；　but　there　was　no　hint　of
breakfast；　and　we　soon　learned　that　the　Malacca　runner　had　not　reached
the　Residency　at　all；　and　that　the　note　sent　from　Permatang　Pasir；
which　should　have　been　delivered　at　1　A。M。；　had　not　been　received　till
8　A。M。；　so　that　Captain　Murray　had　not　been　able　to　arrange　for　our
transport；　and　had　had　barely　time　to　ride　down　to　meet　us　at　such
〃full　speed；〃　as　a　swampy　and　partially　made　road　would　allow。　So　our
dreams　of　breakfast　ended　in　cups　of　stewed　tea；　given　to　us　by　a
half…naked　Chinaman；　and；　to　our　chagrin；　we　had　to　go　back　to　the　boat
and　be　poled　up　the　shallowing　and　narrowing　river　for　four　hours　more；
getting　on　with　difficulty；　the　boat…men　constantly　jumping　into　the
water　to　heave　the　boat　off　mud　banks。


When　we　eventually　landed　at　Nioto；　a　small　village；　Captain　Murray
again　met　us；　and　we　found　a　road；　and　two　antiquated　buggies；　sent　by
a　Chinaman；　with　their　component　parts　much　lashed　together　with　rope。
I　charioteered　one　of　these；　with　reins　so　short　that　I　could　only
reach　them　by　sitting　on　the　edge　of　the　seat；　and　a　whip　so　short　that
I　could　not　reach　the　pony　with　it。　At　a　Chinese　village　some　policemen
brought　us　cocoa…nut　milk。　　After　that；　the　pony　could　not；　or　would
not；　go；　and　the　Malay　syce　with　difficulty　got　it　along　by　dragging
it；　and　we　had　to　walk　up　every　hill　in　the　fierce　heat　of　a　tropic
noon。　At　the　large　Chinese　village　of　Rassa；　a　clever　little　Sumatra
pony　met　us；　and　after　passing　through　some　roughish　clearings；　on
which　tapioca　is　being　planted；　we　arrived　here　at　4　P。M。；　having
traveled　sixty　miles　in　thirty…three　hours。

The　Residency　is　on　a　steepish　hill　in　the　middle　of　an　open　valley；
partially　cleared　and　much　defaced　by　tin　diggings。　The　Chinese　town　of
Serambang　lies　at　the　foot　of　the　hill。　The　valley　is　nearly　surrounded
by　richly　wooded　hills；　some　of　them　fully　three　thousand　feet　high。
These；　which　stretch　away　to　the　northern　State　of　Selangor；　are　bathed
in　indigo　and　cobalt；　slashed　with　white　here　and　there；　where　cool
streams　dash　over　forest…shaded　ledges。　　The　house　consists　of　two
attap　roofed　bungalows；　united　by　their　upper　verandas。　Below　there　are
a　garden　of　acclimatization　and　a　lawn；　on　which　the　Resident　instructs
the　bright　little　daughter　of　the　Datu　Klana　in　lawn　tennis。　It　was
very　hot；　but　the　afternoon　airs　were　strong　enough　to　lift　the　British
ensign　out　of　its　heavy　folds　and　to　rustle　the　graceful　fronds　of　the
areca　palms。

Food　was　the　first　necessity；　then　baths；　then　sleep；　then　dinner　at
7：30；　and　then　ten　hours　more　sleep。

I。　L。　B。



LETTER　XIII

The　Appurtenances　of　CivilizationBabuCharacteristics　of　Captain
MurrayAn　Embodied　GovernmentChinese　Mining　EnterpriseA　Chinese
Gaming…HouseThe　〃Capitans　China〃New…Year　VisitsSittings　〃In
Equity〃A　Court　of　JusticeThe　Serambang　Prison〃Plantation
Hill〃A　Monster　BonfireAn　Ant　WorldAn　Ant　FuneralNight　on
〃Plantation　Hill〃The　Murder　of　Mr。　LloydA　Chinese　Dragon　PlayA
Visit　to　a　Malay　PrinceThe　Datu　Bandar's　HouseA　Great
TemptationThe　Return　JourneyAn　Obituary　Quotation


RESIDENCY；　SUNGEI　UJONG；　January　30。

We　have　been　here　for　four　days。　The　heat　is　so　great　that　it　is
wonderful　that　one　can　walk　about　in　the　sunshine；　but　the　nights；
though　the　mercury　does　not　fall　below　80　degrees；　are　cool　and
refreshing；　and　the　air　and　soil　are　both　dry；　though　a　hundred　inches
of　rain　fall　in　the　year。　　These　wooden　bungalows　are　hot；　for　the
attap　roofs　have　no　lining；　but　they　are　also　airy。　There　is　no…one　but
myself　at　night　in　the　one　in　which　my　room　is；　but　this　is　nothing
after　the　solitude　of　the　great；　rambling　Stadthaus。　Since　we　came　a
sentry　has　been　on　duty　always；　and　a　bull…dog　is　chained　at　the　foot
of　the　ladder　which　leads　to　both　bungalows。　But　there　is　really
nothing　to　fear　from　these　〃treacherous　Malays。〃　It　is　most　curious　to
see　the　appurtenances　of　civilization　in　the　heart　of　a　Malay　jungle；
and　all　the　more　so　because　our　long　night　journey　up　the　Linggi　makes
it　seem　more　remote　than　it　is。　　We　are　really　only　sixty　miles　from
Malacca。

The　drawing…room　has　a　good　piano；　and　many　tasteful　ornaments；　books；
and　chinagifts　from　loving　friends　and　relations　in　the　far　off
homeand　is　as　livable　as　a　bachelor　would　be　likely　to　make　it。　There
is　a　billiard　table　in　the　corridor。　The　dining…room；　which　is　reached
by　going　out　of　doors；　with　its　red…tiled　floor　and　walls　of　dark；
unpolished　wood；　is　very　pretty。　In　the　middle　of　the　dinner　table
there　is　a　reflecting　lake　for　〃hot…house　flowers；〃　and　exquisite
crystal；　menu　cards　with　holders　of　Dresden　china；　four　classical
statuettes　in　Parian；　with　pine…apples；　granadillas；　bananas；
pomegranates；　and　a　durion　blanda；　are　the　〃table　decorations。〃　The
cuisine　is　almost　too　elaborate　for　a　traveler's　palate；　but　plain　meat
is　rarely　to　be　got；　and　even　when　procurable　is　unpalatable　unless
disguised。　Curry　is　at　each　meal；　but　it　is　not　made　with　curry　powder。
Its　basis　is　grated　cocoa…nut　made　into　a　paste　with　cocoa…nut　milk；
and　the　spices　are　added　fresh。　Turtles　when　caught　are　kept　in　a　pond
until　they　are　needed；　and　we　have　turtle　soup；　stewed　turtle；　curried
turtle　and　turtle　cutlets　ad　nauseam。　Fowls　are　at　every　meal；　but
never　plain　roasted　or　plain　boiled。　　The　first　day　there　was　broiled
and　stewed　elephant　trunk；　which　tastes　much　like　beef。

Babu；　who　is　always　en　grand　tenue；　has　taken　command　of　everything　and
saves　our　host　all　trouble。　He　carves　at　the　sideboard；　scolds　the
servants　in　a　stage　whisper；　and　pushes　them　indignantly　aside　when
they　attempt　to　offer　anything　to　〃his　young　ladies；〃　reduces　Captain
Murray's　butler　to　a　nonentity；　and　as　far　as　he　can　turns　the
Residency　into　Government　House；　waiting　on　us　assid