the golden chersonese and the way thither-第37章

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I　saw　the　most　gorgeous　combination　of　color　and　picturesque　effect
that　I　have　ever　set　eyes　upon。〃＇

Klang　does　not　improve　on　further　acquaintance。　It　looks　as　if　half　the
houses　were　empty；　and　certainly　half　the　population　is　composed　of
Government　employes；　chiefly　police　constables。　There　is　no　air　of
business　energy；　and　the　queerly　mixed　population　saunters　with　limp
movements；　even　the　few　Chinese　look　depressed；　as　if　life　were　too
much　for　them。　It　looks　too　as　if　there　were　a　need　for　holding　down
the　population　（which　I　am　sure　there　isn't）；　for　in　addition　to　the
fort　and　its　barracks；　military　police　stations　are　dotted　about。　A
jail；　with　a　very　high　wall；　is　in　the　middle　of　the　village。　The
jungle　comes　so　near　to　Klang　that　tigers　and　herds　of　elephants；
sometimes　forty　strong；　have　been　seen　within　half　a　mile　of　it。　In
Sungei　Ujong　there　was　some　excitement　about　a　〃rogue　elephant〃　（i。e。；
an　elephant　which　for　reasons　which　appear　good　to　other　elephants；　has
been　expelled　from　the　herd；　and　has　been　made　mad　and　savage　by
solitude）；　which；　after　killing　two　men；　has　crossed　the　river　into
Selangor；　and　is　man…killing　here。　A　few　days　ago　a　man　catching　sight
of　him　in　the　jungle　took　refuge　in　a　tree；　and　the　brute　tore　the　tree
down　with　its　trunk；　and　trampled　the　poor　fellow　to　death；　his
companion　escaping　during　the　process。

Yesterday　evening　we　had　service　in　the　hall；　the　whole　white
population　being　〃rounded　up〃　for　it；　seven　men　and　two　women；　three　of
whom　are　Roman　Catholics。　The　congregation　sat　under　one　punkah　and　the
Resident　under　another；　both　being　worked　by　bigoted　Mohammedans！
Everything　was　〃ship…shape；〃　as　becomes　Mr。　Douglas's　antecedents；　a
union　jack　over　the　desk；　from　which　the　liturgy　was　read；　and　a
tiger…skin　over　the　tiles　in　front；　the　harmonium　well　played；　the
singing　and　chanting　excellent。　We　had　one　of　the　most　beautiful　of　the
Ambrosian　hymns；　and　possibly　Dr。　Bonar　may　like　to　hear　that　his　hymn；
〃I　heard　the　voice　of　Jesus　say；〃　was　sung　with　equal　enjoyment　by
Catholics　and　Protestants　in　the　wilds　of　the　Golden　Chersonese。

There　is　an　almost　daily　shower　here；　and　it　is　lovely　now；　with　a
balmy　freshness　in　the　air。　No　one　could　imagine　that　we　are　in　the
torrid　zone；　and　only　3　degrees　from　the　equator。　The　mercury　has　not
been　above　83　degrees　since　I　came；　and　the　sea　and　land　breezes　are
exquisitely　delicious。　I　wish　you　could　see　a　late　afternoon　here　in
its　full　beauty；　with　palms　against　a　golden　sky；　pink　clouds；　a　pink
river；　and　a　balm…breathing　air；　just　strong　enough　to　lift　the　heavy
scented　flowers　which　make　the　evenings　delicious。　There　has　been　a
respite　from　mosquitoes；　and　I　am　having　a　〃real　good　time。〃

But　I　had　a　great　fright　yesterday　（part　of　the　〃good　time〃　though）。　I
was　going　into　the　garden　when　six　armed　policemen　leapt　past　me　as　if
they　had　been　shot；　followed　by　Mr。　Daly；　the　land…surveyor；　who　has
the　V。C。　for　some　brave　deed；　shouting　〃a　cobra！　a　cobra！〃　and　I　saw　a
hooded　head　above　the　plants；　and　then　the　form　I　most　fear　and　loathe
twisting　itself　toward　the　house　with　frightful　rapidity；　every　one
flying。　I　was　up　a　ladder　in　no　time；　and　the　next　moment　one　of　the
policemen；　plucking　up　courage；　broke　the　reptile's　back　with　the　butt
of　his　rifle；　and　soon　it　was　borne　away；　dead；　by　its　tail。　It　was
over　four　feet　long。　They　get　about　three　a　day　at　the　fort。

There　is　a　reward　of　20　cents　per　foot　for　every　venomous　snake　brought
in；　50　cents　per　foot　for　an　alligator；　and　25　dollars　for　every　tiger。
Lately　the　police　have　got　two　specimens　of　an　ophiophagus；　a
snake…eating　snake　over　eighteen　feet　long；　whose　bite　they　say　is
certain　death。　　They　have　a　horrible　collection　of　snakes　alive；　half
dead；　dead；　and　preserved。　There　was　a　fright　of　a　different　kind　late
at　night；　and　the　two　made　me　so　nervous　that　when　the　moonlight
glinted　two　or　three　times　on　the　bayonet　of　the　sentry；　which　I　could
see　from　my　bed；　I　thought　it　was　a　Malay　going　to　murder　the　Resident；
against　whom　I　fear　there　may　be　many　a　vendetta。



LETTER　XIV　（Continued）

Yachting　in　the　Malacca　StraitsA　Tropic　DreamThe　Rajah
MoussaTiger　StoriesA　Grand　ExcitementA　〃Man…Eating　Kris〃A　Royal
ResidenceA　Council　of　StateThe　Sultan's　AttendantsThe　〃Light　of
the　Harem〃The　Sultan's　Offering


S。S。　〃ABDULSAMAT；〃　LANGAT　RIVER；　SELANGOR

I　was　glad　to　get　up　at　sunrise；　when　the　whole　heaven　was　flooded　with
color　and　glory；　and　the　lingering　mists　which　lay　here　and　there　over
the　jungle　gleamed　like　silver。　　Before　we　left；　Mrs。　Douglas　gave　me
tea；　scones；　and　fresh　butter；　the　first　fresh　butter　that　I　have
tasted　for　ten　months。　We　left　Klang　in　this　beautiful　steam…launch；
the　（so…called）　yacht　of　the　Sultan；　at　eight；　with　forty　souls　on
board。

I　am　somewhat　hazy　as　to　where　I　am。　〃The　Langat　river〃　is　at　present
to　me　only　a　〃geographical　expression。〃　It　is　now　past　three　o'clock；
and　we　have　been　going　about　since　eight；　sometimes　up　rivers；　but
mostly　on　lovely　tropic　seas　among　islands。　This　is　one　of　the　usual
business　tours　of　the　Resident；　with　the　additional　object　of
presenting　a　uniform　to　the　Sultan。　Besides　Mr。　Douglas　there　are　his
son…in…law；　Mr。　Daly；　Mr。　Hawley；　who　has　lately　been　appointed　to　a
collectorship；　and　who　goes　up　to　be　presented　to　the　Sultan；　Mr。
Syers；　formerly　a　private　in　the　10th　Regiment；　now　superintendent　of
the　Selangor　police　force；　and　thirty　policemen；　who　go　up　to　form　the
Sultan's　escort　to…morrow。　Precautions；　for　some　occult　reason；　seem　to
be　considered　indispensable　here；　and　have　been　increased　since　the
murder　of　Mr。　Lloyd　at　the　Dindings。　The　yacht　has　a　complete　permanent
roof　of　painted　canvas；　and　under　this　is　an　armament　of　boarding
pikes。　Round　the　little　foremast　four　cutlasses　and　a　quantity　of　ball
cartridges　are　displayed。　Six　rifles　are　in　a　rack　below；　and　the
policemen　and　body…guard　are　armed　with　rifles　and　bayonets。

The　yacht　is　perfection。　The　cabin；　in　which　ten　can　dine；　is　high　and
airy；　and；　being　forward；　there　is　no　vibration。　　Space　is　exquisitely
utilized　by　all　manner　of　contrivances。　　She　is　only　50　tons；　and　very
low　in　the　water；　but　we　are　going　all　the　way　to　Prince　of　Wales
island　in　her200　miles。　　Everything　is　perfect　on　board；　even　to　the
cuisine；　and　I　appreciate　the　low　rattan　chairs　at　the　bow；　in　which
one　can　sit　in　the　shade　and　enjoy　the　zephyrs。

This　day　has　been　a　tropic　dream。　I　have　enjoyed　it　and　am　enjoying　it
intensely。　We　steamed　down　the　Klang　river；　and　then　down　a　narrow
river…like　channel　among　small　palm…fringed　islands　which　suddenly
opened　upon　the　sea；　which　was　slightly　green　toward　the　coral…sanded；
densely　wooded；　unpeopled　shores；　but　westward　the　green　tint　merged
into　a　blue　tint；　which　ever　deepened　till　a　line　of　pure；　deep；
indescribable　blue　cut　the　blue　sky　on　the　far…off　clear　horizon。　But；
ah！　that　〃many　twinkling　smile　of　ocean！〃　Words　cannot　convey　an　idea
of　what　it　is　under　this　tropic　sun　and　sky；　with　the　silver…flashing
wavelets　rippling　the　surface　of　the　sapphire　sea；　beneath　whose　clear
warm　waters　brilliant　fishes　are　darting　through　the　coral　groves。
These　are　enchanted　seas

　　　　　〃Where　falls　not　rain；　or　hail；　or　any　snow；
　　　　　Or　ever　wind　blows　loudly。〃

It　is　unseemly　that　the　Abdulsamat　should　smoke　and　puff　and　leave　a
foamy　wake　behind　her。　〃Sails　of　silk　and　ropes　of　sendal；〃　and　poetic
noiseless　movements　only　would　suit　these　lovely　Malacca　Straits。　This
is　one　of　the　very　few　days　in　my　life　in　which　I　have　felt　mere　living
to　be　a　luxury；　and　what　it　is　to　be　akin　to　seas　and　breezes；　and
birds　and　insects；　and　to　know　why　nature　sings　and　smiles。

We　had　been　towing　a　revenue　cutter　with　stores　for　a　new　lighthouse；
and　cast　her　adrift　at　the　point　where　we　anchored；　and　the　Resident
and　Mr。　Daly　went　ashore　with　thirteen　policemen；　and　I　had　a　most
interesting　and　instructive　conversation　with　Mr。　Syers。　Afterward　we
steamed　along　the　low　wooded　coast；　and　then　up　the　Langat　river　till
we　came　to　Bukit　Jugra；　an　isolated　hill　covered　with　jungle。　The
landing　is　up　a　great　face　of　smooth　rock；　near　the　top　of　which　is　a
pretty　police　station；　and　higher　still；　nearly　concealed　by　bananas
and　cocoa…palms；　is　the　large　bungalow　of　the　revenue　officer　and
police　magistrate　of　Langat。　We　saw　Mr。　Ferney；　the　magistrate；　landed
the　police　guard；　and　then　steamed　up　here　for　a　council。

Mr。　Syers　went　ashore；　and　returned　with　the　Sultan's　heir；　the　Rajah
Moussa；　a　very　peculiar…looking　Malay；　a　rigid　Mohammedan；　who　is
known；　the　Resident　says；　to　have　said　that　when　he　becomes　Sultan　he
〃will　drive　the　white　men　into　the　sea。〃　He　works　hard；　as　an　example
to　his　people；　and　when　working　dresses　like　a　coolie。　He　sets　his　face
against　cock…fighting　and　other　Malay　sports；　is　a　reformer；　and　a
_dour_；　strong…willed　man；　and　his　accession　seems　to　be　rather　dreaded
by　the　Resident；　as　it　is　supposed　that　he　will　be　something　more　than
a　mere　figure…head　prince。　He　is　a　Hadji；　and　was　dressed　in　a　turban
made　of　many　yards　of　priceless　silk　muslin；　embroidered　in　silk；　a
white　baju；　and　a　long　white　sarong；　and　full　white　trousersa
beautiful　dress　for　an　Oriental。　　He　shook　hands　with　me。　I　wish　that
these　people　would　not　adopt　our　salutations；　their　own　are　so　much
more　appropriate　to　their　character。

The　yacht　is　now　lying　at　anchor　in　a　deep　coffee…colored　stream；　near
a　picturesque　Malay　village　on　stilts；　surrounded　by　very　extensive
groves　of　palms。　Several　rivers　intersect　each　other　in　this
neighborhood；　flowing　through　dense　jungles　and　mangrove　swamps。　The
sun　is　still　high。　The　four　white　men　and　the　Rajah　Moussa　have　gone
ashore　snipe　shooting；　the　Malays　on　board　are　sleeping；　and　I　am
enjoying　a　delicious　solitude。


February　4；　4　P。M。We　are　steaming　over　the　incandescent　sapphire　sea；
among　the　mangrove…bordered　islands　which　fringe　the　Selangor　coast；
under　a　blazing　sun；　with　the　mercury　88　degrees　in　the　shade；　but　the
heat；　though　fierce；　is　not　oppressive；　and　I　have　had　a　delightful
day。　　The　men　returned　when　they　could　no　longer　see　to　shoot　snipes；
with　a　well　filled　bag；　and　after　sunset　we　dropped　down　to　Bukit　Jugra
or　Langat。　Most　of　the　river　was　as　black　as　night　with　the　heavy
shadows　of　the　forest；　but　along　the　middle　there　was　a　lane　of
lemon…colored　water；　the　exquisite　reflection　of　a　lemon…colored　sky。
The　Resident　and　Mr。　Daly　went　down　to　the　coast　in　the　yacht　to　avoid
the　mosquitoes　of　the　interior；　but　I　with　Omar；　one　of　the　〃body
guard；〃　half　Malay　half　Kling；　as　my　attendant；　and　Mr。　Syers；　landed；
to　remain　at　the　magistrate's　bungalow。　It　was　a　lovely　walk　up　the
hill　through　the　palms　and　bananas；　and　the　bayonets　of　our　escort
gleamed　in　the　intense　moonlight；　not　with　anything　alarming　about　them
either；　for　an　escort　is　only　necessary　because　the　place　is　so
infested　by　tigers。　The　bungalow　is　large　but　rambling；　and　my　room　was
one　built　out　at　the　end；　with　six　windows　with　solid　shutters；　of
which　Mr。　　Ferney　closed　all　but　two；　and　half　closed　those；　because　of
a　tiger　which　is　infesting