the golden chersonese and the way thither-第38章

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which　Mr。　　Ferney　closed　all　but　two；　and　half　closed　those；　because　of
a　tiger　which　is　infesting　the　immediate　neighborhood　of　the　house；　and
whose　growling；　they　say；　is　most　annoying。　　He　killed　a　heifer
belonging　to　the　Sultan　two　nights　ago；　and　last　night　the　sentry　got　a
shot　at　him　from　the　veranda　outside　my　room　as　he　was　engaged　in　most
undignified　depredations　upon　the　hen　house。

There　was　a　grand　excitement　yesterday　morning。　A　tigress　was　snared　in
a　pitfall　and　was　shot。　Her　corpse　was　brought　to　the　bungalow　warm　and
limp。　She　measured　eight　feet　two　inches　from　her　nose　to　her　tail；　and
her　tail　was　two　feet　six　inches　long。　She　had　whelps；　and　they　must　be
starving　in　the　jungle　tonight。　Her　beautiful　skin　is　hanging　up。　All
the　neighborhood；　Chinese　and　Malay；　turned　out。　Some　danced；　and　the
Sultan　beat　gongs。　Everybody　seized　upon　a　bit　of　the　beast。　The　Sultan
claimed　the　liver；　which；　when　dried　and　powdered；　is　worth　twice　its
weight　in　gold；　as　a　medicine。　The　blood　was　taken；　and　I　saw　the
Chinamen　drying　it　in　the　sun　on　small　slabs；　it　is　an　invaluable
tonic！　The　eyes；　which　were　of　immense　size；　were　eagerly　scrambled
for；　that　the　hard　parts　in　the　centre；　which　are　valuable　charms；
might　be　set　in　gold　as　rings。　It　was　sad　to　see　the　terrible　〃glaring
eyeballs〃　of　the　jungle　so　dim　and　stiff。　The　bones　were　taken　to　be
boiled　down　to　a　jelly；　which；　when　some　mysterious　drug　has　been
added；　is　a　grand　tonic。　The　gall　is　most　precious；　and　the　flesh　was
all　taken；　but　for　what　purpose　I　don't　know。　A　steak　of　it　was　stewed；
and　I　tasted　it；　and　found　it　in　flavor　much　like　the　meat　of　an
ancient　and　overworked　draught　ox；　but　Mr。　Ferney　thought　it　like　good
veal。　At　dinner　the　whole　talk　was　of　the　wild　beasts　of　the　jungle；
and；　as　we　were　all　but　among　them；　it　was　very　fascinating。　I　wanted
to　go　out　by　moonlight；　but　Mr。　　Ferney　said　that　it　was　not　safe；
because　of　tigers；　and　even　the　Malays　there　don't　go　out　after
nightfall。

Mr。　Ferney　has　given　me　a　stick　with　a　snake…mark　on　it；　which　was
given　to　him　as　a　thing　of　great　value。　The　Malay　donor　said　that
anyone　carrying　it　would　become　invulnerable　and　invisible；　and　that　if
you　were　to　beat　anyone　with　it；　the　beaten　man　would　manifest　all　the
symptoms　of　snake　poisoning！　Mr。　Ferney　has　also　given　me　a　kris。　When
I　showed　it　to　Omar　this　morning；　he　passed　it　across　his　face　and
smelt　it；　and　then　said；　〃This　kris　goodhas　ate　a　man。〃

I　could　not　sleep　much；　there　were　such　strange　noises；　and　the　sentry
made　the　veranda　creak　all　night　outside　my　room；　but　this　is　a
splendid　climate；　and　one　is　refreshed　and　ready　to　rise　with　the　sun
after　very　little　sleep。　The　tropic　mornings　are　glorious。　There　is
such　an　abrupt　and　vociferous　awakening　of　nature；　all　dew…bathed　and
vigorous。　The　rose…flushed　sky　looks　cool；　the　air　feels　cool；　one
longs　to　protract　the　delicious　time。　Then　with　a　suddenness　akin　to
that　of　his　setting；　the　sun　wheels　above　the　horizon；　and　is　high　in
the　heavens　in　no　time；　truly　〃coming　forth　as　a　bridegroom　out　of　his
chamber；　and　rejoicing　as　a　giant　to　run　his　course；〃　and　as　truly
〃There　is　nothing　hid　from　the　heat　thereof；〃　for　hardly　is　he　visible
than　the　heat　becomes　tremendous。　But　tropical　trees　and　flowers；
instead　of　drooping　and　withering　under　the　solar　fury；　rejoice　in　it。

This　morning　was　splendid。　The　great　banana　fronds　under　the　still；
blue　sky　looked　truly　tropical　The　mercury　was　82　degrees　at　7　A。M。　The
〃tiger　mosquitoes；〃　day　torments；　large　mosquitoes　with　striped　legs；　a
loud　metallic　hum；　and　a　plethora　of　venom；　were　in　full　fury　from
daylight。　　Ammonia　does　not　relieve　their　bites　as　it　does　those　of　the
night　mosquitoes；　and　I　am　covered　with　inflamed　and　confluent　lumps　as
large　as　the　half　of　a　bantam's　egg。　But　these　and　other　drawbacks；　I
know　from　experience；　will　soon　be　forgotten；　and　I　shall　remember　only
the　beauty；　the　glory；　and　the　intense　enjoyment　of　this　day。

Quite　early　the　Rajah　Moussa　arrived　in　a　baju　of　rich；　gold…colored
silk；　which　suited　his　swarthy　complexion。　He　sat　in　the　room
pretending　to　look　over　the　Graphic；　but　in　reality　watching　me；　as　I
wrote　to　you；　just　as　I　should　watch　an　ouf。　　At　last　he　asked　how　many
Japanese　I　had　killed！！！！

The　succession　is　here　hereditary　in　the　male　line；　and　this　Rajah
Moussa　is　the　Sultan's　eldest　son。　The　Sultan　receives　2；000　pounds　a
year　out　of　the　revenue；　and　this　Rajah　960　pounds。

The　Resident　arrived　at　nine；　wearing　a　very　fine　dress　sword；　and　gold
epaulettes　on　his　linen　coat；　and　under　a　broiling　sun　we　all　walked
through　a　cleared　part　of　the　jungle；　through　palms　and　bananas；　to　the
reception　at　the　Sultan's；　which　was　the　〃motive〃　of　our　visit。　The
Sultan；　Abdulsamat；　has　three　houses　in　a　beautiful　situation；　at　the
end　of　a　beautiful　valley。　They　are　in　the　purest　style　of　Malay
architecture；　and　not　a　Western　idea　appears　anywhere。　The　wood　of
which　they　are　built　is　a　rich　brown　red。　The　roofs　are　very　high　and
steep；　but　somewhat　curved。　The　architecture　is　simple；　appropriate；
and　beautiful　The　dwelling　consists　of　the　Sultan's　house；　a　broad；
open　passage；　and　then　the　women's　house　or　harem。　　At　the　end　of　the
above　passage　is　the　audience…hall；　and　the　front　entrance　to　the
Sultan's　house　is　through　a　large　porch　which　forms　a　convenient
reception　room　on　occasions　like　that　of　yesterday。

From　this　back　passage　or　court　a　ladder；　with　rungs　about　two　feet
apart；　leads　into　the　Sultan's　house；　and　a　step…ladder　into　the
women's　house。　Two　small　boys；　entirely　naked；　were　incongruous　objects
sitting　at　the　foot　of　the　ladder。　Here　we　waited　for　him；　two　files　of
policemen　being　drawn　up　as　a　guard　of　honor。　He　came　out　of　the
women's　house　very　actively；　shook　hands　with　each　of　us　（obnoxious
custom！）；　and　passed　through　the　lines　of　police　round　to　the　other
side　of　his　house　into　the　porch；　the　floor　of　which　was　covered　with
fine　matting　nearly　concealed　by　handsome　Persian　rugs。

The　Sultan　sat　on　a　high…backed；　carved　chair　or　throne。　　All　the　other
chairs　were　plain。　The　Resident　sat　on　his　right；　I　on　his　left；　and　on
my　left　the　Rajah　Moussa；　with　other　sons　of　the　sultan；　and　some
native　princes。　Mr。　　Syers　acted　as　interpreter。　Outside　there　were
double　lines　of　military　police；　and　the　bright　adjacent　slopes　were
covered　with　the　Sultan's　followers　and　other　Malays。　The　balcony　of
the　audience…hall；　which　has　a　handsome　balustrade；　was　full　of　Malay
followers　in　bright　reds　and　cool　white。　It　was　all　beautiful；　and　the
palms　rustled　in　the　soft　air；　and　bright　birds　and　butterflies　flew
overhead；　rejoicing　in　mere　existence。

If　Abdulsamat　were　not　Sultan；　I　should　pick　him　out　as　the　most
prepossessing　Malay　that　I　have　seen。　He　is　an　elderly　man；　with
iron…gray　hair；　a　high　and　prominent　brow；　large；　prominent；　dark；
eyes；　a　well…formed　nose；　and　a　good　mouth。　The　face　is　bright；　kindly；
and　fairly　intelligent。　　He　is　about　the　middle　height。　His　dress
became　him　well；　and　he　looked　comfortable　in　it　though　he　had　not　worn
it　before。　It　was　a　rich；　black　velvet　baju　or　jacket；　something　like　a
loose　hussar　jacket；　braided；　frogged；　and　slashed　with　gold；　trousers
with　a　broad　gold　strip　on　the　outside；　a　rich　silk　sarong　in　checks
and　shades　of　red；　and　a　Malay　printed　silk　handkerchief　knotted　round
his　head；　forming　a　sort　of　peak。　No　Mohammedan　can　wear　a　hat　with　a
rim　or　stiff　crown；　or　of　any　kind　which　would　prevent　him　from　bowing
his　forehead　to　the　earth　in　worship。

The　Resident　read　the　proceedings　of　the　council　of　the　day　before；　and
the　Sultan　confirmed　them。　The　nominal　approval　of　measures　initiated
by　the　Resident　and　agreed　to　in　council；　and　the　signing　of
death…warrants；　are　among　the　few　prerogatives　which　〃his　Highness〃
retains。　Then　a　petition　for　a　pension　from　Rajah　Brean　was　read；　the
Rajah；　a　slovenly…looking　man；　being　present。　The　petition　was　refused；
and　the　Sultan；　in　refusing　it；　spoke　some　very　strong　words　about
idleness；　which　seems　a　great　failing　of　Rajah　Brean's　but　it　has　my
strong　sympathy；　for

　　　　　〃Why
　　　　　Should　life　all　labor　be？
　　　　　There　is　no　joy　but　calm；
　　　　　Why　should　we　only　toil；　the　roof　and　crown　of　things？〃

During　the　reception　a　richly…dressed　attendant　sat　on　the　floor　with
an　iron　tube　like　an　Italian　iron　in　his　hand；　in　which　he　slowly
worked　an　arrangement　which　might　be　supposed　to　be　a　heater　up　and
down。　I　thought　that　he　might　be　preparing　betel…nut；　but　Mr。　Douglas
said　that　he　was　working　a　charm　for　the　Sultan's　safety；　and　it　was
believed　that　if　he　paused　some　harm　would　happen。　Another　attendant；
yet　more　richly　dressed；　carried　a　white　scarf　fringed　and　embroidered
with　gold　over　one　shoulder；　and　two　vases　of　solid　gold；　with　their
surfaces　wrought　by　exquisite　workmanship　into　flowers　nearly　as
delicate　as　filigree　work。　One　of　these　contained　betel…nut；　and　the
other　sirih　leaves。　Meanwhile　the　police；　with　their　bayonets　flashing
in　the　sun；　and　the　swarthy；　richly…costumed　throng　on　the　palm…shaded
slopes；　were　a　beautiful　sight。　The　most　interesting　figure　to　me　was
that　of　the　reforming　heir；　the　bigoted　Moslem　in　his　gold…colored
baju；　with　his　swarthy　face；　singular　and　almost　sinister　expression；
and　his　total　lack　of　all　Western　fripperies　of　dress。　I　think　that
there　may　be　trouble　when　he　comes　to　the　throne；　at　least　if　the
present　arrangements　continue。　　He　does　not　look　like　a　man　who　would
be　content　to　be　a　mere　registrar　of　the　edicts　of　〃a　dog　of　an
infidel。〃

The　Sultan　has　a　〃godown〃　containing　great　treasures；　concerning　which
he　leads　an　anxious　lifehoards　of　diamonds　and　rubies；　and　priceless
damascened　krises；　with　scabbards　of　pure　gold　wrought　into　marvelous
devices　and　incrusted　with　precious　stones。　On　Mr。　Douglas's　suggestion
（as　I　understood）　he　sent　a　kris　with　an　elaborate　gold　scabbard　to　the
Governor；　saying：　〃It　is　not　from　the　Sultan　to　the　Governor；　_but　from
a　friend　to　a　friend_。〃　He　seems　anxious　for　Selangor　to　〃get　on。〃　He
is　making　a　road　at　Langat　at　his　own　expense；　and　acting；　doubtless；
under　British　advice；　has　very　cordially　agreed　that　the　odious　system
of　debt　slavery　shall　be　quietly　dropped　from　among　the　institutions　of
Selangor。

When　this　audience　was　over　I　asked　to　be　allowed　to　visit　the　Sultana；
and；　with　Mrs。　Ferney　as　interpreter；　went　to　the　harem；　accompanied　by
the　Rajah　Moussa。　It　is　a　beautiful　house；　of　one　very　large；　lofty
room；　part　of　which　is　divided　into　apartments　by　heavy　silk　curtains。
One　end　of　it　is　occupied　by　a　high　dais　covered　with　fine　mats；　below
which　is　another　dais　covered　with　Persian　carpets。　On　this　the　Sultana
received　us；　the　Rajah　Moussa；　who　is　not　her　son；　and　ourselves
sitting　on　chairs。　If　I　understood　rightly　that　this　prince　is　not　her
son；　I　do　not　see　how　it　is　that　he　can　go　into　the　women's　apartments。
Two　guards　sat　on　the　floor　just　within　the　door；　and　numbers　of　women；
some　of　them　in　white　veils；　followers　of　the　Sultana；　sat　in　rows　also
on　the　floor。

It　must　be　confessed　that　the　〃light　of　the　harem〃　is　not　beautiful。
She　lo