the golden chersonese and the way thither-第48章

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gharrie　and　scrubby　pony　and　sending　us　on　in　his　buggy　with　a　fine
Australian　horse；　but　Mr。　Maxwell　says　that　this　was　as　much　from
policy　as　courtesy；　as　it　gives　him　importance　to　be　on　obviously
friendly　terms　with　the　Resident。

We　went　on　to　Kamunting；　a　forlorn　town；　mainly　built　of　attap；　with
roads　and　ditches　needing　much　improvement；　and　I　bargained　for　some
Chinese　purses　and　visited　a　gambling　saloon；　the　place　in　which　one
sees　the　peculiar　expression　of　the　Chinese　face　at　its　fullest
development。　There　is　nothing　very　shocking　about　it；　nothing　more　than
an　intensified　love　of　gain　without　a　mask。　Each　coolie　takes　his　pipe
of　opium　after　his　day's　work；　and　each　has　a　pot　of　tea　kept　always
hot　in　a　thickly　wadded　basket；　a　luxury　which　no　Chinaman　seems　able
to　do　without。

We　called　at　a　Sikh　guard…house；　and　the　magnificent　sergeant　took　me
to　see　his　wife；　the　woman　of　the　regiment；　who　is　so　rigidly　secluded
that　not　even　the　commanding　officer　nor　Mr。　Maxwell　have　seen　her。　She
is　very　beautiful；　and　has　an　exquisite　figure；　but　was　overloaded　with
jewelry。　She　wore　a　large　nose…jewel；　seven　rings　of　large　size
weighing　down　her　finely　formed　ears；　four　necklaces；　and　silver
bangles　on　each　arm　from　the　wrist　to　the　elbow；　besides　some　on　her
beautiful　ankles。　　She　had　an　infant　boy；　the　child　of　the　regiment；　in
her　arms；　clothed　only　in　a　silver　hoop；　and　the　father　took　him　and
presented　him　to　me　with　much　pride。　It　was　a　pleasant　family　group。

The　few　days　here　have　been　a　real　rest；　I　have　been　so　much　alone。
There　are　no　women　to　twitter；　and　when　Mr。　　Maxwell　is　not　at　work　he
talks　of　things　that　are　worth　talking　about。　The　climate；　too；　is
bracing　and　wholesome；　and　the　boisterous　afternoon　wind；　which　sweeps
letters　and　papers　irreverently　away；　keeps　off　the　mosquitoes。

I。　L。　B。



LETTER　XX

Novel　CircumstancesThe　Excitements　of　the　JungleEternal
SummerThe　Sensitive　PlantThe　Lotus　Lake　of　Matang
Elephant　UglinessA　Malay　MahoutA　Novel　Experience
Domestic　PetsMalay　Hospitality…Land　Leeches〃A　Fearful
Joy〃The　End　of　My　First　Elephant　RideKwala　Kangsa


BRITISH　RESIDENCY；　KWALA　KANGSA；　February　16。

This　is　rather　exciting；　for　I　have　had　an　unusual　journey；　and　my
circumstances　are　unusual；　for　Mr。　Low；　the　Resident；　has　not　returned；
and　I　am　not　only　alone　in　his　bungalow　in　the　heart　of　the　jungle；　but
so　far　as　I　can　learn　I　am　the　only　European　in　the　region。

　　　　　〃Of　all　my　wild　adventures　past
　　　　　This　frantic　feat　will　prove　the　last；〃

for　in　a　fortnight　I　propose　to　be　at　Pinang　on　my　way　to　conventional
Ceylon；　and　the　beloved　〃wilds〃　will　be　left　behind。

At　4：30　this　morning　Mr。　Maxwell's　energetic　voice　roused　me；　and　I　got
up；　feeling　for　the　first　time　in　Larut　very　tired　from　the　unwonted
dissipation　of　another　〃dinner　party；〃　and　from　having　been　kept　awake
late　by　the　frantic　rushes　of　the　lemur　and　the　noise　of　the　〃trumpeter
beetle；〃　besides　being　awoke　in　a　fright　at　2　A。M。；　by　the　noise　made
in　changing　guard；　from　a　dream　that　the　Sikhs　had　mutinied　and　were
about　to　massacre　the　Europeans；　myself　included！　We　had　bananas　and
chocolate；　and　just　at　daybreak　walked　down　the　hill；　where　I　got　into
a　little　trap　drawn　by　a　fiery　little　Sumatra　pony；　and　driven　by　Mr。
Gibbons；　a　worthy　Australian　miner　who　is　here　road…making；　and　was
taken　five　miles　to　a　place　where　the　road　becomes　a　quagmire　not　to　be
crossed。　Elephants　had　been　telegraphed　for　to　meet　me　there；　but　the
telegraph　was　found　to　be　broken。　Mr。　Maxwell；　who　accompanied　us　on
horseback；　had　sent　a　messenger　on　here　for　elephants；　and　was　dismayed
on　getting　to　the　quagmire　to　meet　the　news　that　they　had　gone　to　the
jungle；　so　there　was　no　means　of　conveyance　but　the　small　pachyderm
which　was　bringing　my　bag；　and　which　was　more　than　two　hours　behind。

There　was　nothing　for　it　but　to　walk；　and　we　tramped　for　four　miles。　I
could　not　have　done　the　half　of　it　had　I　not　had　my　〃mountain　dress〃
on；　the　identical　mud…colored　tweed；　in　which　I　waded　through　the　mud
of　Northern　Japan。　　The　sun　had　risen　splendidly　among　crimson　clouds；
which；　having　turned　gray；　were　a　slight　screen；　and　the　air　is　so
comparatively　dry　that；　though　within　5　degrees　of　the　equator；　it　was
not　oppressively　hot。

The　drive　had　brought　us　out　of　the　Chinese　country　into　a　region　very
thinly　peopled　by　Malays　only；　here　and　there　along　the　roadside；
living　in　houses　of　all　Malay　styles；　from　the　little　attap　cabin　with
its　gridiron　floor　supported　on　stilts；　to　the　large　picturesque　house
with　steep　brown　roofs；　deep　eaves　and　porches；　and　walls　of　matting　or
bamboo　basket　work　in　squares；　light　and　dark　alternately；　reached　by
ladders　with　rungs　eighteen　inches　apart；　so　difficult　for　shod　feet。

The　trees　and　plants　of　the　jungle　were　very　exciting。　Ah！　　what　a
delight　it　is　to　see　trees　and　plants　at　home　which　one　has　only　seen
as　the　exotics　of　a　hothouse；　or　read　of　in　books！　In　the　day's　journey
I　counted　one　hundred　and　twenty…six　differing　trees　and　shrubs；
fifty…three　trailers；　seventeen　epiphytes；　and　twenty…eight　ferns。　I
saw　more　of　the　shrubs　and　epiphytes　than　I　have　yet　done　from　the
altitude　of　an　elephant's　back。　There　was　one　Asplenium　nidus　＇bird's
nest　fern＇　which　had　thirty…seven　perfect　fronds　radiating　from　a
centre；　each　frond　from　three　and　a　quarter　to　five　and　a　half　feet
long；　and　varying　from　myrtle　to　the　freshest　tint　of　pea…green！

There　was　an　orchid　with　hardly　visible　leaves；　which　bore　six　crowded
clusters　of　flowers　close　to　the　branch　of　the　tree　on　which　it　grew；
each　cluster　composed　of　a　number　of　spikes　of　red　coral　tipped　with
pale　green。　In　the　openings　there　were　small　trees　with　gorgeous
erythrina…like　flowers；　glowing　begonias；　red　lilies；　a　trailer　with
trumpet…shaped　blossoms　of　canary　yellow；　and　a　smaller　trailer；　which
climbs　over　everything　that　is　not　high；　entwining　itself　with　the　blue
Thunbergia；　and　bearing　on　single　stalks　single　blossoms；
primrose…shaped；　of　a　salmon　orange　color　with　a　velvety　black　centre。
In　some　places　one　came　upon　three　varieties　of　nepenthes　or　〃monkey
cups；〃　some　of　their　pitchers　holding　（I　should　think）　a　pint　of　fluid；
and　most　of　them　packed　with　the　skeletons　of　betrayed　guests；　then　in
moist　places　upon　steel　blue　aspleniums　and　luxuriant　selaginellas；　and
then　came　caelogynes　with　white　blossoms；　white　flowered　dendrobiums
（crumentatum？）；　all　growing　on　or　clinging　to　trees；　with
scarlet…veined　bauhinias；　caladiums；　ginger　worts；　and　aroids；
inclining　one　to　make　incessant　exclamations　of　wonder　and　delight。　You
cannot　imagine　how　crowded　together　this　tropical　vegetation　is。　There
is　not　room　for　half　of　it　on　the　ground；　so　it　seeks　and　finds　its
home　high　up　on　the　strong；　majestic　trees　which　bear　it　up　into　the
sunshine；　where；　indeed　one　has　to　look　for　most　of　the　flowers。

It　is　glorious　to　see　the　vegetation　of　eternal　summer　and　the　lavish
prodigality　of　nature；　and　one　revels　among　hothouse　plants　〃at　home；〃
and　all　the　splendor　of　gigantic　leaves；　and　the　beauty　and　grace　of
palms；　bamboos；　and　tree…ferns；　the　great；　gaudy　flowers　are　as
marvelous　as　the　gaudy　plumaged　birds；　and　I　feel　that　no　words　can
convey　an　idea　of　the　beauty　and　magnificence　of　an　equatorial　jungle；
but　the　very　permanence　of　the　beauty　is　almost　a　fault。　I　should　soon
come　to　long　for　the　burst　of　spring　with　its　general　tenderness　of
green；　and　its　great　broad　splashes　of　sociable　flowers；　its　masses　of
buttercups；　or　ox…eye　daisies；　or　dandelions；　and　for　the　glories　of
autumn　with　its　red　and　gold；　and　leagues　of　purple　heather。　　These
splendid　orchids　and　other　epiphytes　grow　singly。　One　sees　one　and　not
another；　there　are　no　broad　masses　of　color　to　blaze　in　the　distance；
the　scents　are　heavy　and　overpowering；　the　wealth　is　embarrassing。　I
revel　in　it　all　and　rejoice　in　it　all；　it　is　intoxicating；　yet　I　am
haunted　with　visions　of　mossy　banks　starred　with　primroses　and
anemones；　of　stream　sides　blue　with　gentian；　of　meadows　golden　with
buttercups；　and　fields　scarlet　with　poppies；　and　in　spite　of　my
enjoyment　and　tropical　enthusiasm；　I　agree　with　Mr。　Wallace　and　others
that　the　flowers　of　a　temperate　climate　would　give　one　more　lasting
pleasure。

On　either　side　of　the　road　the　ground　is　densely　carpeted　with　the
sensitive　plant；　whose　lovely　tripartite　leaves　are　green　above　and
brown　below。　It　is　a　fascinating　plant；　and　at　first　one　feels　guilty
of　cruelty　if　one　does　more　than　look　at　it；　but　I　have　already
learned；　as　all　people　do　here；　to　take　delight　in　wounding　its
sensibilities。　　Touch　any　part　of　a　leaf　ever　so　lightly；　and　as　quick
as　thought　it　folds　up。　Touch　the　centre　of　the　three　ever　so　lightly；
and　leaf　and　stalk　fall　smitten。　Touch　a　branch　and　every　leaf　closes；
and　every　stalk　falls　as　if　weighted　with　lead。　Walk　over　it；　and　you
seem　to　have　blasted　the　earth　with　a　fiery　tread；　leaving　desolation
behind。　Every　trailing　plant　falls；　the　leaves　closing；　show　only　their
red…brown　backs；　and　all　the　beauty　has　vanished；　but　the　burned　and
withered…looking　earth　is　as　fair　as　ever　the　next　morning。

After　walking　for　four　miles　we　came　upon　a　glorious　sight　at　a　turn　of
the　road；　a　small　lake　behind　which　the　mountains　rise　forest…covered；
with　a　slope　at　their　feet　on　which　stand　the　cocoa…nut　groves；　and　the
beautiful　Malay　house　of　the　exiled　Mentri　of　Larut。　I　have　written　of
a　lake；　but　no　water　was　visible；　for　it　was　concealed　by　thousands　and
thousands　of　the　peltate　leaves　of　the　lotus；　nearly　round；　attaining　a
diameter　of　eighteen　inches；　cool　and　dewy…looking　under　the　torrid
sun；　with　a　blue　bloom　upon　their　intense　green。　Above　them　rose
thousands　of　lotus　flowers；　buds；　and　seed…vessels；　each　one　a　thing　of
perfect　beauty；　and　not　a　withered　blossom　was　to　be　seen。　The　immense
corollas　varied　in　color　from　a　deep　rose　crimson　to　a　pink　as　pale　as
that　of　a　blush　rose。　Some　were　just　opening；　others　were　half　open；
and　others　wide　open；　showing　the　crowded　golden　stamens　and　the　golden
disk　in　the　centre。　From　far　off　the　deep　rose　pink　of　the　glorious
blossoms　is　to　be　seen；　and　their　beauty　carried　me　back　to　the　castle
moats　of　Yedo；　and　to　many　a　gilded　shrine　in　Japan；　on　which　the　lotus
blooms　as　an　emblem　of　purity；　righteousness；　and　immortality。　Even
here；　where　no　such　symbolism　attaches　to　it；　it　looks　a　sacred　thing。
It　was　delightful　to　see　such　a　sociable　flower　rejoicing　in　a　crowd。

Beyond　is　the　picturesque　kampong　of　Matang；　with　many　good　houses　and
a　mosque。　Passing　through　a　gateway　with　brick　posts；　we　entered　a
large　walled　inclosure　containing　a　cocoa…grove；　some　fine　trees；　and
the　beautiful　dwellings　of　the　Malay　whom　we　have　deported　to　the
Seychelles。　This　is　one　of　the　largest　Malay　houses　on　the　peninsula。
It　is　built　of　wood　painted　green　and　white；　with　bold　floral　designs
on　a　white　ground　round　some　of　the　circular　windows；　and　a　very　large
porch　for　followers　to　wait　in；　up　a　ladder　of　course。　In　a　shed　there
were　three　gharries；　and　behind　the　house　several　small　houses　for
slaves　and　others。　A　number　of　girls　and　childr