the golden chersonese and the way thither-第53章

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A　Joyous　WelcomeA　Severe　MortificationThe　British　ResidentDaily
VisitorsRajah　DrisA　Tipsy　ApeMarriage　CeremoniesMarriage
FestivitiesMalay　ChildrenThe　Rajah　Muda　YusufA　Dreary
FuneralFascinating　CompanionshipA　Cocoa…Nut　GathererThe　Argus
PheasantAn　Opium　WreckRhinoceros
HornsElephant…TamingPetrifying　Influences　of　IslamismA　Dwindling
Race


February　17。I　was　very　glad　that　yesterday　was　Sunday；　so　that　I　had
a　quiet　day；　for　nearly　twelve　hours　of　jungle　riding　on　an　elephant
makes　one　very　stiff　and　sleepy。　　Three　days　of　solitude；　meals　in　the
company　of　apes；　elephant　excursions；　wandering　about　alone；　and　free；
open　air；　tropical　life　in　the　midst　of　all　luxuries　and　comforts；　have
been　very　enchanting。　At　night；　when　the　servants　had　retired　to　their
quarters　and　the　apes　to　the　roof；　and　I　was　absolutely　alone　in　the
bungalow；　the　silent　Oriental　sentries　motionless　below　the　veranda
counting　for　nothing；　and　without　a　single　door　or　window　to　give　one
the　feeling　of　restraint；　I　had　some　of　the　〃I'm　monarch　of　all　I
survey〃　feeling；　and　when　drum　beat　and　bugle　blast；　and　the　turning
out　of　the　Sikh　guard；　indicated　that　the　Resident　was　in　sight；　I　felt
a　little　reluctant　to　relinquish　the　society　of　animals；　and　my
〃solitary　reign；〃　which　seemed　almost　〃ancient〃　also。

When　Mr。　Low；　unattended　as　he　always　is；　reached　the　foot　of　the
stairs　the　retriever　leapt　down　with　one　bound；　and　through　the　air
over　his　head　fled　Mahmoud　and　Eblis；　uttering　piercing　cries；　the
siamang；　though　keeping　at　a　distance；　adding　to　the　jubilations；　and
for　several　minutes　I　saw　nothing　of　my　host；　for　these　creatures；
making　every　intelligent　demonstration　of　delight；　were　hanging　round
him　with　their　long　arms；　the　retriever　nearly　wild　with　joy；　but
frantically　jealous；　all　the　creatures　welcoming　him　more　warmly　than
most　people　would　welcome　their　relations　after　a　long　absence。　Can　it
be　wondered　at　that　people　like　the　society　of　these　simple；　loving；
unsophisticated　beings？

Mr。　Low's　arrival　has　inflicted　a　severe　mortification　on　me；　for
Eblis；　who　has　been　absolutely　devoted　to　me　since　I　rescued　him　from
Mahmoud；　has　entirely　deserted　me；　takes　no　notice　of　me；　and　seems
anxious　to　disclaim　our　previous　acquaintance！　I　have　seen　children　do
just　the　same　thing；　so　it　makes　the　kinship　appear　even　closer。　He
shows　the　most　exquisite　devotion　to　his　master；　caresses　him　with　his
pretty　baby　hands；　murmurs　ouf　in　the　tenderest　of　human　tones；　and
sits　on　his　shoulder　or　on　his　knee　as　he　writes；　looking　up　with　a
strange　wistfulness　in　his　eyes；　as　if　he　would　like　to　express　himself
in　something　better　than　a　monosyllable。

This　is　a　curious　life。　Mr。　Low　sits　at　one　end　of　the　veranda　at　his
business　table　with　Eblis　looking　like　his　familiar　spirit；　beside　him。
I　sit　at　a　table　at　the　other　end；　and　during　the　long　working　hours　we
never　exchange　one　word。　Mahmoud　sometimes　executes　wonderful　capers；
the　strange；　wild；　half…human　face　of　the　siamang　peers　down　from　the
roof　with　a　half…trustful；　half…suspicious　expression；　the　retriever
lies　on　the　floor　with　his　head　on　his　paws；　sleeping　with　one　eye
open；　always　on　the　watch　for　a　coveted　word　of　recognition　from　his
master；　or　a　yet　more　coveted　opportunity　of　going　out　with　him；　tiffin
and　dinner　are　silently　served　in　the　veranda　recess　at　long　intervals；
the　sentries　at　the　door　are　so　silently　changed　that　one　fancies　that
the　motionless　blue　turbans　and　scarlet　coats　contain　always　the　same
men；　in　the　foreground　the　river　flows　silently；　and　the　soft　airs
which　alternate　are　too　feeble　to　stir　the　over…shadowing　palm…fronds
or　rustle　the　attap　of　the　roof。　It　is　hot；　silent；　tropical。　The　sound
of　Mr。　Low's　busy　pen　alone　breaks　the　stillness　during　much　of　the
day；　so　silent　is　it　that　the　first　heavy　drops　of　the　daily　tropical
shower　on　the　roof　have　a　startling　effect。

Mr。　Low　is　greatly　esteemed；　and　is　regarded　in　the　official　circles　of
the　Settlements　as　a　model　administrator。　He　has　had　thirty　years'
experience　in　the　East；　mainly　among　Malays；　and　has　brought　not　only　a
thoroughly　idiomatic　knowledge　of　the　Malay　language；　but　a　sympathetic
insight　into　Malay　character　to　his　present　post。　He　understands　the
Malays　and　likes　them；　and　has　not　a　vestige　of　contempt　for　a　dark
skin；　a　prejudice　which　is　apt　to　create　an　impassable　gulf　between　the
British　official　and　the　Asiatics　under　his　sway。　I　am　inclined　to
think　that　Mr。　Low　is　happier　among　the　Malays　and　among　his　apes　and
other　pets　than　he　would　be　among　civilized　Europeans！

He　is　working　fourteen　hours　out　of　the　twenty…four。　I　think　that　work
is　his　passion；　and　a　change　of　work　his　sole　recreation。　He　devotes
himself　to　the　promotion　of　the　interests　of　the　State；　and　his　evident
desire　is　to　train　the　native　Rajahs　to　rule　the　people　equitably。　He
seems　to　grudge　every　dollar　spent　superfluously　on　the　English
establishment；　and　contents　himself　with　this　small　and　old…fashioned
bungalow。　In　this　once　disaffected　region　he　goes　about　unarmed；　and　in
the　daytime　the　sentries　only　carry　canes。　His　manner　is　as　quiet　and
unpretending　as　can　possibly　be；　and　he　speaks　to　Malays　as
respectfully　as　to　Europeans；　neither　lowering　thereby　his　own　dignity
nor　theirs。　Apparently　they　have　free　access　to　him　during　all　hours　of
daylight；　and　as　I　sit　writing　to　you　or　reading；　a　Malay　shadow
constantly　falls　across　my　paper；　and　a　Malay；　with　silent；　cat…like
tread　glides　up　the　steps　and　appears　unannounced　in　the　veranda；　on
which　Mr。　Low　at　once　lays　aside　whatever　he　is　doing；　and　quietly
gives　himself　to　the　business　in　hand。　The　reigning　prince；　the　Rajah
Muda　Yusuf；　and　Rajah　Dris；　are　daily　visitors；　the　former　brings　a
troop　of　followers　with　him；　and　they　remain　outside；　their　red　sarongs
and　picturesque　attitudes　as　they　lounge　in　the　shade；　giving　to　the
place　that　〃native〃　air　which　everywhere　I　love；　at　least　where
〃natives〃　are　treated　as　I　think　that　they　ought　to　be；　and　my
requirements　are　pretty　severe！

I　am　painfully　aware　of　the　danger　here；　as　everywhere；　of　forming
hasty　and　inaccurate　judgments；　and　of　drawing　general　conclusions　from
partial　premises；　and　on　my　present　tour　there　is　the　added　risk　of
seeing　things　through　official　spectacles；　but　still　certain　things　lie
on　the　surface；　and　a　traveler　must　be　very　stupid　indeed　if　he　does
not　come　to　an　approximately　just　conclusion　concerning　them。　As；　for
instance；　it　is　easy　to　see　that　far　in　the　interior　of　the　Malay
Peninsula；　in　regions　rarely　visited　by　Europeans；　themselves　without
advisers；　and　away　from　the　influence　of　public　opinion；　dealing　with
weak　rulers　to　whom　they　represent　preponderating　brute　force　in　the
last　resort；　the　position　of　〃Resident〃　is　very　much　what　the
individual　man　chooses　to　make　it。　Nor　is　it　difficult　to　perceive
whether　the　relations　between　the　English　official　and　the　natives　are
hearty　and　cordial；　or　sullen　and　distrustful；　or　whether　the　Resident
makes　use　of　his　position　for　purposes　of　self…aggrandizement；　and
struts　tempestuously　and　swaggeringly　before　the　Malays；　or　whether　he
devotes　his　time　and　energies　to　the　promotion　of　prosperity；　good
order；　and　progress；　in　a　firm　and　friendly　spirit。

After　a　very　quiet　day　we　went　at　sunset；　to　see　Rajah　Dris；　not　taking
the　dog。　The　trifling　matter　of　the　dog　being　regarded　as　an
abomination　is　one　of　the　innumerable　instances　of　the　ingrained
divergence　between　Moslem　and　Christian　feeling。　Rajah　Dris　lives　in　a
good　house；　but　it　is　Europeanized；　and　consequently　vulgarized。　He
received　us　very　politely　on　the　stairs；　and　took　us　into　a　sitting…
room　in　which　there　were　various　ill…assorted　European　things。　His
senior　wife　was　brought　in；　a　dull；　heavy…looking　woman；　a　daughter　of
the　Rajah　Muda　Yusuf；　and　after　her　a　number　of　slave　women　and　babies；
till　the　small　room　was　well　filled。　The　Rajah　hospitably　entertained
us　with　tea；　milk；　and　preserved　bananas；　but　I　noticed　with　regret
that　the　white　table…cloth　was　much　soiled；　and　that　the　china　and
glass　were　in　very　bad　taste。　The　house　and　its　equipments　are　a
distressing　contrast　to　those　of　the　Datu　Bandar　in　Sungei　Ujong；　who
adheres　closely　to　Malay　habits。　Rajah　Dris　sent　a　servant　the　whole
way　back　with　us；　carrying　a　table　lamp。

to…day　the　mercury　was　at　90　degrees　for　several　hours。　The　nights；
however；　are　cool　enough　for　sleep。　I　have　lately　taken　to　the　Malay
custom　of　a　sleeping　mat；　and　find　it　cooler　than　even　the　hardest
mattress。　I　did　not　sleep　much；　however；　for　so　many　rats　and　lizards
ran　about　my　room。　These　small；　bright…eyed　lizards　go　up　the　walls　in
search　of　flies。　They　dart　upon　the　fly　with　very　great　speed；　but　just
as　you　think　that　they　are　about　to　swallow　him　they　pause　for　a　second
or　two　and　then　make　the　spring。　I　have　never　seen　a　fly　escape　during
this　pause；　which　looks　as　if　the　lizard　charmed　or　petrified　his
victim。　The　Malays　have　a　proverb　based　upon　this　fact：　　〃Even　the
lizard　gives　the　fly　time　to　pray。〃　There　were　other　noises；　for　wild
beasts；　tigers　probably；　came　so　near　as　to　scare　the　poultry　and
horses；　and　roared　sullenly　in　the　neighborhood　for　a　long　time；　and
the　sentries　challenged　two　people；　after　which　I　heard　a　messenger
tell　Mr。　Low　of　a　very　distressing　death。


February。　18。Major　Swinburne　and　Captain　Walker　arrived　in　the
morning；　and　we　had　a　grand　tiffin　at　twelve；　and　Mahmoud　was　allowed
to　sit　on　the　table；　and　he　ate　sausages；　pommeloe；　bananas；
pine…apple；　chicken　and　curry；　and　then　seizing　a　long　glass　of
champagne；　drank　a　good　deal　before　it　was　taken　from　him。　If
drunkenness　were　not　a　loathsome　human　vice；　it　would　have　been　most
amusing　to　see　it　burlesqued　by　this　ape。　He　tried　to　seem　sober　and　to
sit　up；　but　could　not；　then　staggered　to　a　chair；　trying　hard　to　walk
steadily；　and　nodding　his　head　with　a　would…be　witty　but　really
obfuscated　look；　then；　finding　that　he　could　not　sit　up；　he　reached　a
cushion　and　lay　down　very　neatly；　resting　his　head　on　his　elbow　and
trying　to　look　quite　reasonable；　but　not　succeeding；　and　then　he　fell
asleep。

After　tiffin　a　Rajah　came　and　asked　me　to　go　with　him　to　his　house；　and
we　walked　down　with　his　train　of　followers　and　my　Malay　attendant。　It
was　a　very　nice　house；　with　harmonious　coloring　and　much　deep　shadow。
It　soon　filled　with　people。　There　were　two　women；　but　not　having　an
interpreter；　I　could　not　tell　whether　they　were　the　chief's　wives　or
sisters。　He　showed　me　a　number　of　valuable　krises；　spears　and　parangs；
and　the　ladies　brought　sherbet　and　sweetmeats；　and　they　were　altogether
very　jolly；　and　made　me　pronounce　the　Malay　names　of　things；　and　the
women　laughed　heartily　when　I　pronounced　them　badly。　They　showed　me
some　fine　diamonds；　very　beautifully　set　in　that　rich；　red　〃gold　of
Ophir〃　which　makes　our　yellow　western　gold　look　like　a　brazen
imitation；　as　they　evidently　thought；　for　they　took　off　my　opal　ring；
and　holding　the　gold　against　their　own　ornaments；　made　gestures　of
disapproval。　　I　think　that　opals　were　new　to　them；　and　they　were
evidently　delighted　with　their　changing　colors。